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Posted: 9/12/2016 12:22:09 AM EDT
I've just started looking at night vision, and it's something I'm going to be saving up for. In the meantime I've got a helmet coming shortly, which has a shroud. At some point I'll need a mount that fits the shroud, and I believe I'll need something that connects the mount to the device, and that that might be a J-arm.

There's a lot of each thing out there, and I have no idea what's compatible with what. Will Notoros mounts fit in Wilcox shrouds? Will I hang a J-arm off the mount? Will I hang something else off there? Is the screw on the NVG-end of the J-arm standard and I'll be able to fit whatever cheap-add gen1 piece of crap keeps me happy in the meantime while I build up the funds for something with a real tube? Is there anything else I need to know?

Most importantly ... where can I read about all of this to save all of you from having to read more newbie questions from me?
Link Posted: 9/12/2016 5:02:53 AM EDT
[#1]
Norotos & Wilcox dovetails are different size, Wilcox's is a tad smaller so they are not 100% compatible, though mostly yes. The best route is always to go with the same brand J-arm and helmet mount if speaking of dovetail mounts (which are generally great for binoculars, but to a lesser degree beneficial for monoculars like a PVS-14).

So with your current J-arm I would suggest finding a used Norotos Rhino II mount. They sell for almost nothing and are actually very good. The original black Rhino is wobbly, weighs a bit more and lacks vertical adjustments, but the new one is great for a regular J-arms and PVS-14 combo.

I actually prefer the Rhino II over dovetail mounts for monoculars. Another candidate for a mount is the Wilcox G11 that accepts the bayonet style interface of the J-arm too, but you don't gain anything over the Rhino II except looks and maybe a bit lower profile. In addition you will be out of quite a bit more of $$.


The screw-on end of your PVS-14 (I assume) is not standard. There are some other NVD housings that accept PVS-14 optics and also accept the PVS-14 J-arm, but there are almost as many arm fitting styles as there are monoculars. For PVS-14 though there are the most amount of aftermarket upgrades for mounts and arms and other accessories, but most of them are not cheap. The standard J-arm is the cheapest way combined with a Rhino II and luckily that combo is also great.


Edit: did not notice you said you might buy something else before having the funds for Gen2+/Gen3. I strongly suggest not going the Gen1 route just to waste money, put those hundreds in the bank too. I would suggest going with at least the NightGoggles.com Gen2+ PVS-14, or a used Gen3 PVS-14 (avoid Ebay, look at EE here). Used Gen3 PVS-14 market starts at around $1000 for the most lucky - and around $2000 for the better & newer units.
Link Posted: 9/12/2016 8:20:37 AM EDT
[#2]
i am opposite of murtis,,,,lol,, ain't it great!

I do not like the j arms and prefer the dovetail. I find it to be much sturdier. My decision was influenced by the fact that I knew I would be going to a heavier set of bino's later on though, and would need the dovetail anyway.

Like murtis says,,,the Rhino II is capable for the single pvs14 and by far the most affordable option.
Link Posted: 9/12/2016 10:28:29 AM EDT
[#3]
So, the dovetail mount tends to be aimed at the dual setups, and so ends up being a little more sturdily built, in general. I am pretty certain that I won't end up with a dual setup in the near future.

Norotos will fit the Wilcox mount on the helmet, but I can also use a Wilcox mount.

For reference, I don't have a "current" setup, just what I was predicting - all I have is a helmet with a shroud that I've agreed to buy.

With regards to the used options, it looks like I was on the right lines with what I'd read here.
Link Posted: 9/12/2016 10:55:06 AM EDT
[#4]
i am not experienced enough to know if the dovetail was aimed toward binos,,,it is just I own both and the dovetail is stiff and the j arm flops around on my helmet. People use rubber bands and bungies to stabilize the j arm, or whatever arm they own, if it moves too much for their taste.  

watch the EE for used stuff you need. Don't buy from anyone who does not have reasonable sales and has not been a member for a good length of time, and you should be safe,,,should be.
Link Posted: 9/12/2016 11:43:02 AM EDT
[#5]
I picked up my used rhino mount at a gun show for $25

they had a whole plastic tub full of them.
Link Posted: 9/12/2016 12:29:52 PM EDT
[#6]
Watch various auction sites for a Norotos rhino 2, they are great mounts and you can get them cheap with patience.  The rhino 2 is, IMHO, the absolute best bang for the buck and the standard bayonet type will accept any standard PVS-14 J-arm.
Link Posted: 9/12/2016 3:11:43 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Norotos will fit the Wilcox mount on the helmet, but I can also use a Wilcox mount.
View Quote

They use the same type of helmet interface. Norotos had an older system too which today is not used much at all. The shroud in your to-be helmet will accept the Rhino II. It is the dovetail that is shaped differently between Wilcox & Norotos. Some mounts have an adjustable dovetail receptacle to compensate for this. (See Cadex Low Profile mount)
Link Posted: 9/13/2016 12:34:07 AM EDT
[#8]
I believe I understand. Thank you all!
Link Posted: 9/13/2016 11:45:04 AM EDT
[#9]
I got a Norotos mount, shroud and j-arm on ebay for $50. It is really rickety, and has lots of play, but it works.

 
Link Posted: 9/13/2016 8:26:20 PM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I got a Norotos mount, shroud and j-arm on ebay for $50. It is really rickety, and has lots of play, but it works.  
View Quote


There are alot of airsoft mounts sold on ebay, if you don't know better you will get ripped off. Norotos should not be rickety.
Link Posted: 9/13/2016 9:17:21 PM EDT
[#11]
Link Posted: 9/15/2016 7:53:36 AM EDT
[#12]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


There are alot of airsoft mounts sold on ebay, if you don't know better you will get ripped off. Norotos should not be rickety.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
I got a Norotos mount, shroud and j-arm on ebay for $50. It is really rickety, and has lots of play, but it works.  


There are alot of airsoft mounts sold on ebay, if you don't know better you will get ripped off. Norotos should not be rickety.

If it's an original Rhino with a ton of field use by GI Joe, it's likely to be beat up and thus rickety.



ETA: I just grabbed a similar package for just under that. I needed the mount and another J-Arm (my current J-Arm doesn't want to seat on my TATM) to tide me over until I can save up for an INVG and dual dovetail setup.
Link Posted: 9/15/2016 11:52:37 AM EDT
[#13]
just FWIW

my rhino was def well used when I got it. It has for sure been in the sandbox and it still locks up tight to my shroud. no wobble what so ever.
Link Posted: 9/17/2016 10:15:29 AM EDT
[#14]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:





If it's an original Rhino with a ton of field use by GI Joe, it's likely to be beat up and thus rickety.
ETA: I just grabbed a similar package for just under that. I needed the mount and another J-Arm (my current J-Arm doesn't want to seat on my TATM) to tide me over until I can save up for an INVG and dual dovetail setup.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:



Quoted:


Quoted:

I got a Norotos mount, shroud and j-arm on ebay for $50. It is really rickety, and has lots of play, but it works.  




There are alot of airsoft mounts sold on ebay, if you don't know better you will get ripped off. Norotos should not be rickety.



If it's an original Rhino with a ton of field use by GI Joe, it's likely to be beat up and thus rickety.
ETA: I just grabbed a similar package for just under that. I needed the mount and another J-Arm (my current J-Arm doesn't want to seat on my TATM) to tide me over until I can save up for an INVG and dual dovetail setup.
That is exactly it. I think most of the wobble is coming from the j-arm.



 
Link Posted: 9/30/2016 12:00:20 AM EDT
[#15]
I just upgraded to a Rhino II over a standard rhino and it is sooooo much better. Rock solid, no wobble.
Link Posted: 9/30/2016 12:19:50 AM EDT
[#16]
Mounts are hard but simple. You either want a bayonet or a dovetail. The dovetail is superior. Everything else is easy to adapt or fix. Get a TATM mount.
Link Posted: 9/30/2016 1:16:03 PM EDT
[#17]
Like said already in this thread, but I will continue a bit, I have to again give a differing opinion on dovetails being superior. I don't see it that black and white - with monoculars I prefer a regular J-arm with a Rhino II (and a combination of those that does not wobble at the bayonet interface).

The reason why I prefer bayonet over dovetail for monos is the ease of use and low weight of both the arm and the mount. I have not run through all dovetail mounts obviously, but so far this is my opinion. My experience is the bayonet is much easier to pop into the mount in the dark just by feel, compared to dovetail where you might need to spend some more time locating the slot. The feedback that the bayonet gives when it locks in place is also great and you have no doubts whether it is in or not - given that you have a good match of arm and the mount.

With binos the bayonet becomes a weak point and definitely dovetail is the answer.

TATM is a heavy mount and when using a mono it is possible to get the setup so light weight that it does not strain you at all, or even barely notice you have anything hanging in front of you. TATM brings the overall weight over the "very comfortable" level in my opinion.
Link Posted: 9/30/2016 1:30:02 PM EDT
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Like said already in this thread, but I will continue a bit, I have to again give a differing opinion on dovetails being superior. I don't see it that black and white - with monoculars I prefer a regular J-arm with a Rhino II (and a combination of those that does not wobble at the bayonet interface).

The reason why I prefer bayonet over dovetail for monos is the ease of use and low weight of both the arm and the mount. I have not run through all dovetail mounts obviously, but so far this is my opinion. My experience is the bayonet is much easier to pop into the mount in the dark just by feel, compared to dovetail where you might need to spend some more time locating the slot. The feedback that the bayonet gives when it locks in place is also great and you have no doubts whether it is in or not - given that you have a good match of arm and the mount.

With binos the bayonet becomes a weak point and definitely dovetail is the answer.

TATM is a heavy mount and when using a mono it is possible to get the setup so light weight that it does not strain you at all, or even barely notice you have anything hanging in front of you. TATM brings the overall weight over the "very comfortable" level in my opinion.
View Quote


To each his own here. I see no difference in weight and the dovetail locks up more solid with less wobble. My TATM iis light. In the end we agree to disagree.
Link Posted: 9/30/2016 3:22:22 PM EDT
[#19]
Link Posted: 9/30/2016 8:15:23 PM EDT
[#20]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:

To each his own here. I see no difference in weight and the dovetail locks up more solid with less wobble. My TATM iis light. In the end we agree to disagree.
View Quote

Indeed

My TATM (short arm) weighs like a brick, or maybe it's the weight distribution, I'm not sure, haven't measured other than how it feels when sticking out of my head. Now that I think of it there might be a newer lighter weight model, though mine has the second lock stow position (like AKA2) too. I don't know, but happy you're happy with your's! And actually I do use the TATM occasionally too.
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