I've got a PPN-3 when you apply 3.75 volts, or 4.5volts it does nothing. No hum, nada. But the thing was sealed up new, it was marked not used since 1999 when reconditioned. I bought 2 from the same, very nice man, and I think Fedex did damage. The one one on top that didn't hit concrete works the best of any gen 1 scope ever.

Is there anyone who can diagnose and repair this ?

Did you check all the connections?

I don't know about the 34, but the 58 had more voltage in the battery stack, was it 5 x 1.25V. Just in case you are giving it too low voltage, though I would be surprised if you had not measured the other battery,,,

I would check and clean battery contacts. If that fails I would remove tube and apply voltage directly to the tube. If that checks out I would look internally. It is a process with repairing night vision. The process dos not vary because of generation   I bet you have a tube with a blown power supply but just an educated guess.

Would need it in hand to tell you more.

1pn34  used totally different batteries than the 58
Nope 2xaa work fine with the 34... Check for loose wires especially if it has a 2aa conversion.

You can't apply power to 1pn34 as the PS is external to the unit not like a modern tube. Unless you have a way to apply multiple kilowatt level voltages to the 3 tubes that compose the tube.

OP does it make any sort of noise at all? Like clicking noise?

Also have you set the day filter to an open setting (don't remove it even in the dark, unless it's REALLY dark)

OP,

I was phone posting earlier so I was a bit terse.

Assuming you are indoors....

So, you've got 2xaa in your 1PN34scope, make sure the wires are actually making contact, this is the #1 failure I've seen with the conversions, shitty AA wiring, and its easy to fix.

First, take the daylight filter and crank it closed i.e. full CCW.

The "gain" knob on the side is the on/off/gain/reticle switch. Click it forward a few settings, you should hear like a faint hum/rapid clicking/growling type sound, thats normal (if nothing heard, check batteries or the PS is dead.

Crank the gain knob about halfway, and then start clicking the day filter Clockwise until you start to see green. At this point if you can't see the reticle crank the gain up. If the scope starts to strobe out, immediately lower the gain or close the day filter, too much light WILL kill your scope.

If you get the growly hum, but no image its likely the tube is dead. If no growly hum prolly the PS or most likely the 2xAA. The scope was specced for about 2.5V input off the old wet cell batteries so Rechargeable AA's (1.2V nomial) are the best but regular alkalines will work too.

DO not OverVolt the scope thats how you kill the PS. The 1PN58 uses a different battery and different input voltage.

Anyhow hope that helps.

You can't supply 3V to the input of the power supply to determine if the tube is bad or not ? I understand external power supply's but the principal is the same. I know you are really good with older gear and maybe I am missing something.

Well the 2.5V in this case is already directly supplied to the PS from the 2AA. So its just redundant, I mean you are right about apply 3V to the tube in modern western gear but thats basically what you are doing here too except all the "wirin" is exposed or you can kinda work on it. The PS is potted so if its dead you need a new one, same with a tube, and honestly unless you can find russian spec components the control assembly isn't repairable either.

This is the part thats possibly gone bad (control assembly) IMO


Seperate PS (make DAMN sure its denergized first, or you might be shocked) Second thing to check


Image tube, last one to check...

Interesting, that is a cluster fuck of crap for the PSU. Thanks for sharing !

I am fucked.

You the guy selling the NSP-3 "not guaranteed to function" on ebay right now?

I think you mean the control unit... Pretty basic really and probably fixable if you have a basic grasp of electronics. The potted PS unit is probably not realistically fixable though (I've never seen one taken apart, so I'm just guessing).

Honestly Dino, its just like a modern NV device, just broken down part wise. All that "clusterfuck of crap" is miniaturized in a modern tube, you just don't see any of it since its potted into one neat lil package. This you can at least swap parts if you have em. I don't see anyone fixing broken PS modules for modern tubes either.

I have a PPN-3, my location is NC, and fuck you for you suggesting I'm a scammer. So No

You'll pardon my skepticism, after trying to help a member here getting with his 10130 omni3 tube to go from non working to mostly working and then seeing him hawk it on the bay a week later as a fully working "Omni5" tube. I'm getting a bit less trustful in my old age.

Darn, a bit combative for a tech forum. He just asked you a question.