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I like the Ops Core Base Jump, but this has been a concern of mine from the day it arrived. So far I haven't had issues. Sorry to hear that you have. I bet the bad publicity they get due to this thread will not have been worth the cost of a second replacement helmet...
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Wow. Guess I'll have to consider going with a TW for my next purchase.
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Just a thought... You could probably carefully remove the molded plastic shroud with a belt sander and add an aluminum shroud. Looking at my helmet, I'd say this is a three beer process (should be fairly easy).
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Just a thought... You could probably carefully remove the molded plastic shroud with a belt sander and add an aluminum shroud. Looking at my helmet, I'd say this is a three beer process (should be fairly easy). View Quote Especially if they're not going to replace it. It's amazing what you can do with a dremel. If that doesn't work out, you can shoot it full of holes, take a picture and put 'never forget' on it, and use it as your avatar |
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They really should offer a polymer version of the bump like the carbon that allows use of separate 1 and 3 hole shrouds instead of this molded in mount.
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Problem with TW is they don't look as good (to my eye) and only come in black or FDE. They are reportedly very comfy, though I have no complaints with the OpsCore in that regard. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Wow. Guess I'll have to consider going with a TW for my next purchase. Problem with TW is they don't look as good (to my eye) and only come in black or FDE. They are reportedly very comfy, though I have no complaints with the OpsCore in that regard. The poly version is still $100 more than the fast bump isn't it? |
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The poly version is still $100 more than the fast bump isn't it? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Wow. Guess I'll have to consider going with a TW for my next purchase. Problem with TW is they don't look as good (to my eye) and only come in black or FDE. They are reportedly very comfy, though I have no complaints with the OpsCore in that regard. The poly version is still $100 more than the fast bump isn't it? I think so... |
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Problem with TW is they don't look as good (to my eye) and only come in black or FDE. They are reportedly very comfy, though I have no complaints with the OpsCore in that regard. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Wow. Guess I'll have to consider going with a TW for my next purchase. Problem with TW is they don't look as good (to my eye) and only come in black or FDE. They are reportedly very comfy, though I have no complaints with the OpsCore in that regard. An ex- Army Ranger kept telling me that the TW was comfier, and I just couldn't believe that a helmet could get any more comfortable than the Fast Base. Until he loaned me one. He didn't get it back. When using the BOA on the TW with a properly sized counter weight, the chin strap is very, very loose, but the helmet is rock solid. And that's IF I use the chin strap at all. |
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The poly version is still $100 more than the fast bump isn't it? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Wow. Guess I'll have to consider going with a TW for my next purchase. Problem with TW is they don't look as good (to my eye) and only come in black or FDE. They are reportedly very comfy, though I have no complaints with the OpsCore in that regard. The poly version is still $100 more than the fast bump isn't it? Right up until you have to replace it at your own expense. |
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Amen. Doing it the way I did is way more expensive than the initial difference. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Right up until you have to replace it at your own expense. Amen. Doing it the way I did is way more expensive than the initial difference. I get that. My point is more about "on-paper". Personally I'd prefer Ops-Core to make a poly version of the carbon to avoid this problem altogether. I have my own Norotos shroud in the parts bin and I don't trust the built in OC shroud. But I can't bring myself to spend that kind of coin on a TW poly helmet. |
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Problem with TW is they don't look as good (to my eye) and only come in black or FDE. They are reportedly very comfy, though I have no complaints with the OpsCore in that regard. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Wow. Guess I'll have to consider going with a TW for my next purchase. Problem with TW is they don't look as good (to my eye) and only come in black or FDE. They are reportedly very comfy, though I have no complaints with the OpsCore in that regard. So far I have only used mine in the dark. The black provides pretty much the same comfort as the tan believe it or not. It would probably be more comfortable in multicam though. P.S. I'm just flickin your nuggets. |
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That is very disappointing customer service from OC. You ought to send them a link to this thread so they can see the negative press this is getting them.
After getting my TW, I wouldn't buy another OC anyway, but if I were considering this would push the needle towards the "no" side. the metal insert in the TW helmet is clearly superior in lock up and reliability to the molded in polymer shroud. Companies that stand behind their products find that it earns them more than trying to find a way out of their obligations. Thanks for letting us know which side of the customer service curve OC lies on. It might save others the pain. |
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this is EXACTLY why I decided to go with a TW LTP. I was just about to pull the trigger on my helmet and was going to go with the ops core until I read some about the plastic mount wearing out and that the TW had an aluminum shroud built in.
based on that alone made the decision for me. Sucks that you are out a helmet. If I were you I would order a TW, then drop that one in the mail and type them a letter (using dates) that this is the 2nd time you have had it broken under light/normal usage. you dont have anything to lose by sending it in regardless of an RA#, if they do send you a new one then I would put it up for sale on the EE. ETA: also do what Tdunn suggested and send them the link to this thread. companies cant stand it when you call them out in a place where thousands of people will read it. |
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Since my Base Jump mount is not broken but I've always had these concerns, I did a small mod after this thread was posted. Check out the following images if you share the same concerns. In this first shot, you can see the steel plate clearly. I just used my drill press vise and a hammer to form the reinforcement plate. Quick set epoxy was used to precisely bed the plate to the helmet contours. In the end, the retaining screw had to be inserted from the inside because the nut wasn't allowing the Rhino base plate to fully lock in. http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-6Bv9fHn/0/M/i-6Bv9fHn-M.jpg http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-GqS6fPL/0/M/i-GqS6fPL-M.jpg After final fitting and paint: http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-KDC9Sxf/0/M/i-KDC9Sxf-M.jpg http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-8zkZJCQ/0/M/i-8zkZJCQ-M.jpg http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-PH6DNK4/0/M/i-PH6DNK4-M.jpg http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-L4gdnQj/0/M/i-L4gdnQj-M.jpg http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-KDC9Sxf/0/M/i-KDC9Sxf-M.jpg http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-BLFNQ3n/0/O/i-BLFNQ3n.jpg There ya have it, a two beer fix for the Ops Core Bse Jump. As I mentioned earlier, if the mount were broken a belt sander would get things ready for an aluminum shroud in a hurry. View Quote |
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Sucks.
I will concur with everyone who would prefer that the Base Jump came with a non-integral shroud, and was just drilled to allow you to add on a shroud - and the price jump between the Base Jump and the Carbon is almost double. I wonder, OP - since the helmet is shot otherwise - could you perhaps fill the backside of the "shroud" portion with Bondo or epoxy, then grind it down and re-drill it for a three hole shroud of some sort? Pretty disappointing the way it was handled either way. ~Augee |
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Since my Base Jump mount is not broken but I've always had these concerns, I did a small mod after this thread was posted. Check out the following images if you share the same concerns. In this first shot, you can see the steel plate clearly. I just used my drill press vise and a hammer to form the reinforcement plate. Quick set epoxy was used to precisely bed the plate to the helmet contours. In the end, the retaining screw had to be inserted from the inside because the nut wasn't allowing the Rhino base plate to fully lock in. http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-6Bv9fHn/0/M/i-6Bv9fHn-M.jpg http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-GqS6fPL/0/M/i-GqS6fPL-M.jpg After final fitting and paint: http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-KDC9Sxf/0/M/i-KDC9Sxf-M.jpg http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-8zkZJCQ/0/M/i-8zkZJCQ-M.jpg http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-PH6DNK4/0/M/i-PH6DNK4-M.jpg http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-L4gdnQj/0/M/i-L4gdnQj-M.jpg http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-KDC9Sxf/0/M/i-KDC9Sxf-M.jpg http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-BLFNQ3n/0/O/i-BLFNQ3n.jpg There ya have it, a two beer fix for the Ops Core Bse Jump. As I mentioned earlier, if the mount were broken a belt sander would get things ready for an aluminum shroud in a hurry. View Quote they should have reinforce it like that before they ship it out. |
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Yep, I agree.
For the do-it-yourself types, this is a simple, inexpensive mod that will give you piece of mind. With the steel plate installed (and bedded), the mount should be significantly stronger than stock. |
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Since my Base Jump mount is not broken but I've always had these concerns, I did a small mod after this thread was posted. Check out the following images if you share the same concerns. In this first shot, you can see the steel plate clearly. I just used my drill press vise and a hammer to form the reinforcement plate. Quick set epoxy was used to precisely bed the plate to the helmet contours. In the end, the retaining screw had to be inserted from the inside because the nut wasn't allowing the Rhino base plate to fully lock in. http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-6Bv9fHn/0/M/i-6Bv9fHn-M.jpg http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-GqS6fPL/0/M/i-GqS6fPL-M.jpg After final fitting and paint: http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-KDC9Sxf/0/M/i-KDC9Sxf-M.jpg http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-8zkZJCQ/0/M/i-8zkZJCQ-M.jpg http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-PH6DNK4/0/M/i-PH6DNK4-M.jpg http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-L4gdnQj/0/M/i-L4gdnQj-M.jpg http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-KDC9Sxf/0/M/i-KDC9Sxf-M.jpg http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-BLFNQ3n/0/O/i-BLFNQ3n.jpg There ya have it, a two beer fix for the Ops Core Bse Jump. As I mentioned earlier, if the mount were broken a belt sander would get things ready for an aluminum shroud in a hurry. View Quote Damn that is nicely done! I'll have to keep this in mind for when my OC takes a shit. I definitely don't use it "lightly" lol. |
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Quoted: Since my Base Jump mount is not broken but I've always had these concerns, I did a small mod after this thread was posted. Check out the following images if you share the same concerns. In this first shot, you can see the steel plate clearly. I just used my drill press vise and a hammer to form the reinforcement plate. Quick set epoxy was used to precisely bed the plate to the helmet contours. In the end, the retaining screw had to be inserted from the inside because the nut wasn't allowing the Rhino base plate to fully lock in. http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-6Bv9fHn/0/M/i-6Bv9fHn-M.jpg http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-GqS6fPL/0/M/i-GqS6fPL-M.jpg After final fitting and paint: http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-KDC9Sxf/0/M/i-KDC9Sxf-M.jpg http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-8zkZJCQ/0/M/i-8zkZJCQ-M.jpg http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-PH6DNK4/0/M/i-PH6DNK4-M.jpg http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-L4gdnQj/0/M/i-L4gdnQj-M.jpg http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-KDC9Sxf/0/M/i-KDC9Sxf-M.jpg http://ericmcferrin.smugmug.com/photos/i-BLFNQ3n/0/O/i-BLFNQ3n.jpg There ya have it, a two beer fix for the Ops Core Bse Jump. As I mentioned earlier, if the mount were broken a belt sander would get things ready for an aluminum shroud in a hurry. View Quote |
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[span style='font-size: 12pt;']Since my Base Jump mount is not broken but I've always had these concerns, I did a small mod after this thread was posted. Check out the following images if you share the same concerns. . I just used my drill press vise and a hammer to form the reinforcement plate. Quick set epoxy was used to precisely bed the plate to the helmet contours. In the end, the retaining screw had to be inserted from the inside because the nut wasn't allowing the Rhino base plate to fully lock in. View Quote Well, I sent links to the threads I created on this problem to OC, and ended up speaking to the lady that I dealt with when the first one broke. It turns out that, "The molded front on the BASE jump mimics the [VAS aluminum] shroud, but again is made of a different material, which cannot accept the same degree of pressure applied to it, to removing an object attached to it, as the VAS Shroud would." and that attaching and releasing mil-spec mounts to the FAST base shroud is considered to be user error (pointed out that my first one was user error as well too). Oh well. I really like their Night Cap and the VAS shroud, but they kind of soiled the bed on the plastic shroud. So, 1ipschoser, can you give me a bit more detail on the metal tab? What kind of metal did you use? I've got a dremel, am not afraid to use it, and have nothing to lose. I'm also thinking about just removing the two bolts from the base of the Rhino mount and finding longer ones with the same threads and screwing them through the inside of the helmet and into the back of the Rhino. And then JB Welding the ever living hell out of everything. |
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Well, I sent links to the threads I created on this problem to OC, and ended up speaking to the lady that I dealt with when the first one broke. It turns out that, "The molded front on the BASE jump mimics the [VAS aluminum] shroud, but again is made of a different material, which cannot accept the same degree of pressure applied to it, to removing an object attached to it, as the VAS Shroud would." and that attaching and releasing mil-spec mounts to the FAST base shroud is considered to be user error (pointed out that my first one was user error as well too). Oh well. I really like their Night Cap and the VAS shroud, but they kind of soiled the bed on the plastic shroud. So, 1ipschoser, can you give me a bit more detail on the metal tab? What kind of metal did you use? I've got a dremel, am not afraid to use it, and have nothing to lose. I'm also thinking about just removing the two bolts from the base of the Rhino mount and finding longer ones with the same threads and screwing them through the inside of the helmet and into the back of the Rhino. And then JB Welding the ever living hell out of everything. View Quote How do they recommend that you attach your mount then to the shroud? I'm not getting the response. |
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The open, loving arms of Team Wendy await.
Better product, and who doesn't love Wendy's? |
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Given the unfortunate situation, the "grammar" Nazi in me can't help but to point out that maybe if you had sent her a photograph as appose to a phonograph recording, you may have gotten better results.
Judging from the e-mails, I'm guessing that their poorly articulated position is that you are not fully depressing the release latch to retract the pawl that secures the mount into the shroud, and thereby putting excessive force on the shroud. Which is not to say that that is what you are in fact doing - but since the situation seems to be academic anyhow at this point, I'm guessing that is what they are considering "user error." ~Augee |
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Sounds like the latter part of this off the TNVC website might ought be removed. I'm highly disappointed to see this level of poor customer service from OpsCore.
The in-molded shroud is designed to interface with standard NVG Mount Brackets. These include the Standard-Issue USGI Rhino Mount, Norotos AKA2 and INVG, Wilcox L4 G24, L4 G01 L4 G02, L4 G21, L4G29. The molded is tight which reduces wobble. The shell’s paint adds a small layer of thickness as well, which will crack off in certain contact areas. But, this extra several thousandths of material helps to stabilize the mount. The polymer is thick in this section, so there are no worries of it cracking or breaking under normal use. View Quote |
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I suspect they will lose quite a bit of business over this, for those of us that actually use our equipment.
I was skeptical of ops core at first, now im damn glad I bought a TW. did you link this thread to them OP? |
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Are they suggesting that you should never remove the mount once it is on, or that you were using the wrong kind of mount.
*confused*
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Wow. They are really doing a good job at screwing the pooch on this one. Hopefully someone with some business sense, or common sense will step in and make this right.
I recently bought two Ops-core Base Jump helmets and I have been happy with them so far, but if I ever need to buy another helmet in the future I will be seriously considering some other options. |
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So, 1ipschoser, can you give me a bit more detail on the metal tab? What kind of metal did you use? I've got a dremel, am not afraid to use it, and have nothing to lose. I'm also thinking about just removing the two bolts from the base of the Rhino mount and finding longer ones with the same threads and screwing them through the inside of the helmet and into the back of the Rhino. And then JB Welding the ever living hell out of everything. View Quote The reinforcement plate mod would only be an option on a helmet with an intact mount. In your case, carefully remove the entire plastic shroud with a belt sander and install a VAS shroud. That's the route I'd take. |
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Wow. They are really doing a good job at screwing the pooch on this one. Hopefully someone with some business sense, or common sense will step in and make this right. I recently bought two Ops-core Base Jump helmets and I have been happy with them so far, but if I ever need to buy another helmet in the future I will be seriously considering some other options. View Quote Yup. Pricing out a TW as I type this. |
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Wow. They are really doing a good job at screwing the pooch on this one. Hopefully someone with some business sense, or common sense will step in and make this right. I recently bought two Ops-core Base Jump helmets and I have been happy with them so far, but if I ever need to buy another helmet in the future I will be seriously considering some other options. Yup. Pricing out a TW as I type this. I am happy with my OpsCore too, save this one (admittedly important) issue. They need to ditch the molded mount and ship the helmets with a VAS shroud. It is a good product that offers some things their competition doesn't, but they need to fix this issue and take care of their customers with broken mounts. Anything less is unacceptable. |
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Are they suggesting that you should never remove the mount once it is on, or that you were using the wrong kind of mount. *confused* View Quote They never suggested that I was using the wrong kind of mount, and never expressly said that the mount should not be removed once mounted. Just repeatedly said that it broke due to operator error and that the polycarbonate shroud cannot take the same degree of stress as the VAS shroud. I was confused as well. Since this one crapped out on me, I have since came across a TW Exfil. I was very surprised that it was more comfortable than the OpsCore. Before trying the TW on, I was pretty sure that a helmet couldn't get any more comfortable than the Fast Base. I was very happy to be wrong. If I find a cheap VAS shroud, I will likely grind the rest of the molded shroud off and use it. In the meantime, I might try my hand with some of the metal JB Weld and try to get the broken piece reattached and then use longer bolts and try to screw them directly into the rear of the Rhino. Hell, I've got nothing to lose. |
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Someone -- for the love of GAWD -- PLEASE Photoshop a TW helmet on her. While you're at it, put a PVS-14 on it and an M4 in her hand. http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk98/alyssa_mia_1995/wendys.jpg View Quote She doesn't have hands. |
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LOL, I do my best! |
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Someone -- for the love of GAWD -- PLEASE Photoshop a TW helmet on her. While you're at it, put a PVS-14 on it and an M4 in her hand. http://i278.photobucket.com/albums/kk98/alyssa_mia_1995/wendys.jpg She doesn't have hands. I have it on good authority that she does. |
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Sorry for your trouble ncorry, but this thread made me skip over a new OC Base for a sweet high cut Viper A1... so, thanks!
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Sorry to hear that Op Core has such crap customer service as to suggest that the mere act of using their product is "operator error." Sounds like they do not want to admit that they have a design flaw in the product. Oh well, thanks for the heads up about them though, Team Wendy it is! They have lost way more business in this thread than they saved by not sending him a new helmet. It is so baffling to me that so many companies continue to do similar things, especially in a business where the potential customer base is already very small and word travels extremely fast.
Cost of replacement helmet < $240 (whatever their actual cost is) Potential lost sales 10 x$240 = $2400 Seems simple enough to me? |
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Sorry to hear that Op Core has such crap customer service as to suggest that the mere act of using their product is "operator error." Sounds like they do not want to admit that they have a design flaw in the product. Oh well, thanks for the heads up about them though, Team Wendy it is! They have lost way more business in this thread than they saved by not sending him a new helmet. It is so baffling to me that so many companies continue to do similar things, especially in a business where the potential customer base is already very small and word travels extremely fast. Cost of replacement helmet < $240 (whatever their actual cost is) Potential lost sales 10 x$240 = $2400 Seems simple enough to me? View Quote The cost of the replacement helmet is way, way less than $240. The first time they sent me a replacement, they took the pads and head loc system (whatever the straps and dial is called) out of my old one and put them into a new plastic shell. That's all I wanted the second time around. Maybe $10 worth of plastic (or polycarbonate per the literature). |
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Selling mine. Never had a complaint with it, but then again I never got a chance to actually field the thing for any use. Been using my nightcap since I got it.
Vote for official name change to Oops Core Base Jump. Can I get a second? BTW, just sent off an e-mail to order up a TW. |
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Interesting read. I'd like to also go on record here as having changed my mind from an Ops-Core FAST Base Jump to a Team Wendy EXFIL LTP.
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