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LVA
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Posted: 11/7/2014 12:16:41 PM EDT
[#1]
maximal diameter of tube is 70mm.
here's pic with all dimensions 
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GBR
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Posted: 11/7/2014 12:33:28 PM EDT
[#2]
Thanks Hatti, I had done my initial designs by the info here http://www.anchorsupplies.com/image-intensifier-tube-1st-generation.html
Luckily the tube was the first thing I ordered. I have found some standard'ish 3 inch pipe in the UK but its grey and would cost more than making it out of aluminium so it still looks like I will be going down the metal route. I have powered the tube up which is quite exciting. I am waiting on the objective lens, which should be here Monday, before I can get any idea of how the "view" is going to look. Exciting stuff though. |
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OH, USA
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Posted: 11/11/2014 11:19:35 AM EDT
[#3]
Wow - that took a while to read through!
Ok, so after reading through all 27 pages, I feel like I'm still not quite sure what to buy to give me the result I'm looking for. I would like to build this optic to have no magnification, true 1.0X. The second goal is getting as much eye relief as possible due to using it with goggles (Revision Desert Locust goggles). Any suggestions on what front and rear lenses to use to achieve 1.0X magnification and some decent eye relief? I was figuring I need a use a c-mount 25MM front lens with a 25MM 2" telescope eyepiece, would that be right? |
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Posted: 11/11/2014 7:44:26 PM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By tombo131: Wow - that took a while to read through! Ok, so after reading through all 27 pages, I feel like I'm still not quite sure what to buy to give me the result I'm looking for. I would like to build this optic to have no magnification, true 1.0X. The second goal is getting as much eye relief as possible due to using it with goggles (Revision Desert Locust goggles). Any suggestions on what front and rear lenses to use to achieve 1.0X magnification and some decent eye relief? I was figuring I need a use a c-mount 25MM front lens with a 25MM 2" telescope eyepiece, would that be right? That's pretty much correct - Match the ocular and objective lens focal lengths for 1:1 magnification - so a 25mm front and rear will do. If you get the PVS-2 lenses, you'll need a 30 or 35mm lens I think - they are a little longer. For maximum focal length though, you could always use a riflescope ocular bell and probably something closer to a 50mm objective. Keep in mind though that with increased eye relief through lens selection, the FOV will be proportionally reduced.
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LVA
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Posted: 11/12/2014 8:14:54 AM EDT
[#5]
may be someone knows exact focal length of PVS-2 eyepiece?
PVS-2 operators manual claims that this scope has 4 fold magnification and 95mm objective lens. assuming Varo MX-8501A/UV tube magnification is more or less unity (p8079hp has .95x magnification),the focal length of ocular should be approx 25mm.. btw,operators manual has radiation warning on first page. it says: RADIOACTIVE MATERIAL THORIUM-232 THE OPTICAL GLASS IN THE NIGHT VISION SIGHT MAY CONTAIN THORIUM AND PRESENT A POSSIBLE EYE HAZARD. A GREEN KNURLED RING, JUST FORWARD OF THE EYESHIELD INDICATES THAT THE NIGHT VISION SIGHT IS SAFE TO USE. which glass?? is it in eyepiece,image intensifier or objective lens? none of my eyepieces has green ring...  
link to source file: http://www.liberatedmanuals.com/TM-11-5855-203-10.pdf |
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GBR
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Posted: 11/12/2014 4:41:06 PM EDT
[#6]
Hi Guys,
I have quickly rigged up my lens and my tube to see if it would focus correctly when powered up. I used a Pringles tube because it was cheap and delicious, and seemed to do the job very easily. I had a job with the soldering, even after cleaning and sanding the inner ring, the solder didn't want to stick, but its on there for now. The only concern I have is that there is a crunching sound and I think that it dims a bit over time, I only had 5 mins to play so will try again tomorrow, Here's a photo of what I have so far. 
Hmmm i probably need to scale the image :) |
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Posted: 11/13/2014 12:07:02 AM EDT
[#7]
David, what length do I need to cut the PVC for use with your 3D printed housings? Sorry if you've mentioned
it before and I haven't seen it. I have all my parts ordered and am just waiting for shipments from Israel, the UK, and China And with Australian- designed housing, this is an international project! |
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Posted: 11/15/2014 10:35:08 AM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheMountaineer: David, what length do I need to cut the PVC for use with your 3D printed housings? Sorry if you've mentioned it before and I haven't seen it. I have all my parts ordered and am just waiting for shipments from Israel, the UK, and China And with Australian- designed housing, this is an international project! Assemble everything, then measure - the distance can vary from project to project. Regards David
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Posted: 11/15/2014 10:35:51 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hatti: may be someone knows exact focal length of PVS-2 eyepiece? PVS-2 operators manual claims that this scope has 4 fold magnification and 95mm objective lens. assuming Varo MX-8501A/UV tube magnification is more or less unity (p8079hp has .95x magnification),the focal length of ocular should be approx 25mm.. btw,operators manual has radiation warning on first page. it says: which glass?? is it in eyepiece,image intensifier or objective lens? none of my eyepieces has green ring... link to source file: http://www.liberatedmanuals.com/TM-11-5855-203-10.pdf Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hatti: may be someone knows exact focal length of PVS-2 eyepiece? PVS-2 operators manual claims that this scope has 4 fold magnification and 95mm objective lens. assuming Varo MX-8501A/UV tube magnification is more or less unity (p8079hp has .95x magnification),the focal length of ocular should be approx 25mm.. btw,operators manual has radiation warning on first page. it says: RADIOACTIVE MATERIAL THORIUM-232 THE OPTICAL GLASS IN THE NIGHT VISION SIGHT MAY CONTAIN THORIUM AND PRESENT A POSSIBLE EYE HAZARD. A GREEN KNURLED RING, JUST FORWARD OF THE EYESHIELD INDICATES THAT THE NIGHT VISION SIGHT IS SAFE TO USE. which glass?? is it in eyepiece,image intensifier or objective lens? none of my eyepieces has green ring... link to source file: http://www.liberatedmanuals.com/TM-11-5855-203-10.pdf I've yet to find an ocular that registers on my geiger counter... David
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LVA
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Posted: 11/16/2014 4:10:07 PM EDT
[#10]
which glass?? is it in eyepiece,image intensifier or objective lens? found answer in same document Image intensifier Th 232 Less than 30% 5585-00-051-2792 Eye Piece Assembly Th 232 Less than 30% 5585-00-941-3037 i think Israeli surplus eyepieces are safe. thoriated glass turns yellow/brown over time and these eyepieces are quite old. my eyepieces are clear,so it must be regular glass. 
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Posted: 11/16/2014 4:34:32 PM EDT
[#11]
My tube should be shipped soon. I'll get it measure, cut, and put together when it arrives.
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ESP
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Posted: 11/17/2014 1:03:09 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheMountaineer:
How do you have that mounted, Adrian? That's a pretty sweet set up. I like the labeling on the side - gives it a military-like feel. hahaha Thank you very much i do what i can with the very restrictive Laws we have here in Europe in all the weapons related stuff. Do you mean the RIS mounting? bobsboy2007: Maybe you can buy it by internet. The PVC is very cheap i dont spent more than 15 or 20 euros in all the housing. Best regards guys. |
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Posted: 11/17/2014 1:22:43 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By adrian_nwf:
Do you mean the RIS mounting? Best regards guys. How do you have the tube mounted to the rifle? It looks like a riser and some hose clamps, but how do the clamps mate to the riser? |
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Posted: 11/17/2014 11:52:47 PM EDT
[#14]
The PVS-2 ocular came in today, and I'm surprised at how big and heavy it is
 My experimental mounting
hardware came in as well as a NV-compatible Primary Arms sight. Now I just need the tube and power source to come in and to pick up a length of PVC at work, and I'll be in business! I lack any real knowledge about lenses, so I have a question about the ocular. What do the numbers (-4 to 4) on the eyepiece mean? |
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ESP
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Posted: 11/18/2014 4:06:02 AM EDT
[Last Edit: adrian_nwf]
[#15]
It is the diopter ajustment.
Munting: 3x of http://www.codinter.com.co/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/1abrazaderas.jpg 1x of http://www.ebay.com/itm/See-Through-High-Riser-Base-21mm-Rail-Mount-20mm-Weaver-AR-Dovetail-Picatinny-/290963037870?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43bebf9eae Some photos: 
You only will need to drill a few holes. |
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Posted: 11/18/2014 9:46:25 AM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By adrian_nwf:
It is the diopter ajustment. Munting: 3x of http://www.codinter.com.co/wp-content/uploads/2010/09/1abrazaderas.jpg 1x of http://www.ebay.com/itm/See-Through-High-Riser-Base-21mm-Rail-Mount-20mm-Weaver-AR-Dovetail-Picatinny-/290963037870?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43bebf9eae Some photos: http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k250/adrian_nwf/IMG_20140721_230946275_HDR_zps10721bb4.jpg http://i90.photobucket.com/albums/k250/adrian_nwf/IMG_20140721_145714711_zps7edb46c8.jpg You only will need to drill a few holes. Awesome, thanks for the detailed pics. That's essentially what I'm wanting to do, mounting it behind a red dot. |
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ESP
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Posted: 11/18/2014 12:25:36 PM EDT
[#17]
I recomend you to use a IR laser works better.
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GBR
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Posted: 11/18/2014 12:46:00 PM EDT
[#18]
Thanks Adrian, but I will probably go down the aluminium route now as I'm making some reasonable progress with parts and designs.
I do agree with Adrian about the IR laser. I spent a while getting the exact height of my NOD behind my red dot (eotech clone) and in the end I went down the route of an IR laser because I found that the RDS blocks light to the NOD, not massive amounts but it is noticeably better without it. I have the laser on a tape remote switch and only use is for a split second at a time. |
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LVA
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Posted: 11/23/2014 11:58:22 AM EDT
[#19]
hello,
a couple of minor improvements here regarding tube protection from dampness. i have seen that in some oldschool devices,such as Fero 51, 1pn-34,etc., desiccant containers are used to protect their innards from dampness. i attached small container to the housing and i am going to toss two or three 1g silica gel packets there. hope it will work.
plus i put a layer of glossy black powder coat on the housing. |
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Posted: 11/26/2014 6:26:38 AM EDT
[#20]
Dessicant should work fine... Nice work :) David
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ESP
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Posted: 11/26/2014 12:41:05 PM EDT
[#21]
Nice idea!!
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Posted: 12/3/2014 12:22:04 PM EDT
[#22]
Heck yeah, I now have all the parts except the PVC and a screw for the positive terminal. I'll get the PVC
before I head home, and hopefully we stock the right metric screw. Hopefully I'll get this sucker put together in the next few nights
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GBR
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Posted: 12/4/2014 9:41:05 AM EDT
[#23]
http://fbcdn-sphotos-h-a.akamaihd.net/hphotos-ak-xpa1/v/t34.0-12/10818988_10152929466559434_1077606602_n.jpg?oh=004df7e8618bd2a62fb9bb9d0d8f4ca8&oe=548389FA&__gda__=1417859287_fc410fd06d4d17085c742a9758c19444
Getting closer now. Have the main components and have given it a test and its so much better than my old gen 1. 4 times the size but still usable :) |
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LVA
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Posted: 12/11/2014 1:30:57 PM EDT
[#24]
hello guys
i would like to show how cascade stands against gen2 Noga Light 6014 (MX-9644/UV clone) both scopes have 75mm/1.1 objective lenses overcast,no moon,no light pollution. very dark night. thin layer of snow on the ground. camera Nikon 1 J2, ISO 400 aperture f/6.3 exposure 1/2 sec. gen2 minimal gain 
gen2 maximal gain 
cascade 
note power line wires hanging,they are approx 60...70 meters away. |
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ESP
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Posted: 12/16/2014 11:33:59 AM EDT
[#25]
The difference is noticeable...can you show us the devices?
Probably with the naked eye the resolution is even better... |
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LVA
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Posted: 12/16/2014 3:53:22 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By adrian_nwf:
The difference is noticeable...can you show us the devices? Probably with the naked eye the resolution is even better... hi Adrian funny thing is that i could not see those wires looking through the scope,dynamic noise is distracting. here's pic of NODs used: 
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ESP
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Posted: 12/17/2014 5:09:31 AM EDT
[#27]
Wow your desings are quite awesome Hatti. Very nice work!!
I usually notice that my photos thru the NVD are very very poor compare to the naked eye and that I took better photos with the smartphone than the digital camera. |
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LVA
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Posted: 12/21/2014 7:52:31 AM EDT
[#28]
thank you Adrian.
i am not sure, but i think cellphone cameras have great depth of field due to their small apertures, and if sensor is sensitive enough,a cellphone is better suited for taking photos through NOD. from what i've read on net,camera must have manual focus in order to get decent pictures. i use Nikon 1 camera for this purpose. it is rather small and has an option to swap the lenses. pictures above are taken through its 10-30mm stock lens, it has sort of electronic controlled "manual focus" mode. now i am waiting for CCTV C mount 25mm/1.4 lens from China. it has true mechanical aperture and focus control,also much lower f number. |
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ESP
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Posted: 12/22/2014 7:14:04 AM EDT
[#29]
I have tried those lens too...They were a little deception. You will lose around the 25% of the FOV in the cascade tube but the are tiny and lightweight.
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Posted: 12/23/2014 8:04:40 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By adrian_nwf: I have tried those lens too...They were a little deception. You will lose around the 25% of the FOV in the cascade tube but the are tiny and lightweight. That's actually not that bad - you will still get close to 40 degrees FOV, and the bit that is lost has the worst distortion anyway - It doesn't have great specs itself though and will add to the distortion around the edges Regards David
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LVA
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Posted: 12/25/2014 12:25:42 PM EDT
[#31]
yep,it could be worse (if we're talking about same lens),
1/2 sensor has only 8mm diagonal. i do not intend to use it with cascade anyway :). it's for tube output photography. |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 12/30/2014 10:40:04 PM EDT
[Last Edit: astross89]
[#32]
Does anyone have any of there Alvin aluminum tube left. Apparently there discontinued.
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Posted: 1/2/2015 1:57:38 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By astross89:
Does anyone have any of there Alvin aluminum tube left. Apparently there discontinued. Good luck. I hope someone can help you out; I searched a ton when I was sourcing parts and never could find any... |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 1/2/2015 8:54:38 PM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheMountaineer:
Good luck. I hope someone can help you out; I searched a ton when I was sourcing parts and never could find any... Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheMountaineer:
Originally Posted By astross89:
Does anyone have any of there Alvin aluminum tube left. Apparently there discontinued. Good luck. I hope someone can help you out; I searched a ton when I was sourcing parts and never could find any... I know I'm just ordering 3 inch aluminum pipe |
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LVA
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Posted: 1/7/2015 4:28:42 AM EDT
[Last Edit: hatti]
[#35]
hello,
got my CCTV lens recently. it feels very "chinese",so to speak. everything is loose and sloppy,but for $18 i really can't ask for more.
so here is a .22lr plinking video recorded through that lens. it was rather awkward to aim through camera display, that explains why targets are so big - 16cm iron squares hanging in chains. distance 100 meters. full moon,almost clear sky - way too bright for cascade. i had to choke camera lens down to approx f/4. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w7XNwXge3FI&feature=youtu.be |
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Posted: 1/7/2015 10:38:22 PM EDT
[#36]
That's a nice video clip - You did an exceptional job with that project - Regards David
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LVA
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Posted: 1/8/2015 6:21:00 PM EDT
[#37]
thank you David (and other helpful members) for providing such valuable info about NV.
much appreciated. i would have built nothing without your instructions. short video for comparison with previous one. heavily overcast moonless night. snow provides good contrast though. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jEQHBYcwMBg |
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Posted: 1/9/2015 12:26:50 PM EDT
[#38]
Thanks for those videos. The first one with moonlight looks great. I wonder how the second would have looked
had there been no snow to provide contrast. |
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LVA
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Posted: 1/11/2015 5:31:15 AM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By TheMountaineer:
Thanks for those videos. The first one with moonlight looks great. I wonder how the second would have looked had there been no snow to provide contrast. well,that would be the worst possible situation in open field. i could detect and hit those targets looking directly through ocular, but i could not do it while recording a video. these videos still are rather poor representation of what i see looking directly into the scope. also youtube transcoding significantly decreased their quality. |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/17/2015 12:40:37 PM EDT
[#40]
Hi all,
Just retired and stumbled on to another project. We (wife and self) have always been interested in NV. DIY is my next adventure and this one looks like greats. I just ordered a ImageIntensifier from Anchor, P8069HP. Hope that is the right one. Hatti, What lens did you use to get the cross hairs? NOW back to read this thread again. |
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Posted: 1/18/2015 5:37:59 AM EDT
[#41]
Originally Posted By cj7hawk: OK, some files for anyone who wants to try building a 3D printed model of the cascade scope - The files are on Shapeways, with zero markup, but you can download them from there and print them up anyway. Shapeways, with Download - Ocular Assembly - Focus: http://shpws.me/o8LZ Lockring: http://shpws.me/o8LR Lens Cell Carrier: http://shpws.me/o8LS Ocular Cap: http://shpws.me/o8LQ Objective: http://shpws.me/o8LV Battery Assembly - Battery Box: http://shpws.me/o8LU Cap: http://shpws.me/o8LT Parts go together like this: http://aunv.blackice.com.au/userfiles/david-IMG_0501_Custom.JPG Hopefully, it should all fit within a ND 3" piece of PVC-tube... Fingers crossed. As I update the parts, they will be here: http://www.shapeways.com/shops/dropbeartech Well, the 3D files are up with the shapeways models, and they are at zero markup anyway, but if anyone has access to a 3D printer, you can download the STL files for each and print them yourself for very little. Hope this helps :) If anyone prints one up and checks it, please let me know how it goes with 3" ND PVC. Thanks David David, thanks for the work-up, that is fantasic. I was looking to do another build without the heavy aluminum tube I have been using, so I ordered your parts off of shapeway. Wanted to let you know, they can't make your battery box--Battery Box: http://shpws.me/o8LU They sent me a e-mail saying it was a no go. |
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LVA
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Posted: 1/18/2015 10:23:47 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Brucifer:
Hi all, Just retired and stumbled on to another project. We (wife and self) have always been interested in NV. DIY is my next adventure and this one looks like greats. I just ordered a ImageIntensifier from Anchor, P8069HP. Hope that is the right one. Hatti, What lens did you use to get the cross hairs? NOW back to read this thread again. hello Brucifer!
cross hairs are just two pieces of .024mm tungsten wire glued with epoxy to the tube retainer. thicker .09 wire can be seen here,now it has been changed to .024. this is old picture. 
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FL, USA
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Posted: 1/18/2015 8:30:45 PM EDT
[Last Edit: astross89]
[#43]
Does any have the ability in the USA to thread my 3" aluminum pipe for my pvs2 eyepiece ring? (for a fee) My machine shops are stupid around here.
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/19/2015 2:07:55 PM EDT
[#44]
Hatti, That is interesting. It was spot on in you video.
If I understand this is what I use. This is called the Objective Lens? http://www.ebay.com/itm/400245516117?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Would this be ok for the eye piece? http://www.ebay.com/itm/121336271470?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT I guess I will understand much more when I power up the cascade. Bruce |
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LVA
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Posted: 1/19/2015 4:00:12 PM EDT
[#45]
hi Bruce
the objective lens from link above will do fine,if you want to cut the cost of your project as much as possible. if you are going for performance,there are other options. as for eyepiece, you do not need whole monocular,although probably you could take it apart and use its eyepiece.
a jewelers loupe like this one should be enough: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-Watch-Magnifier-Jeweler-Loupe-Magnifing-Eye-Len-Repair-Kit-Jewelry-Repair-/200990525071?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2ecbf8068f again,it is lowest cost option, for viewing comfort much better is an original AN/PVS-2 eyepiece. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lens-for-VARO-Night-Vision-Monocular-Eyepiece-Device-/141120813954?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276 |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/19/2015 5:39:45 PM EDT
[#46]
hatti ,
Yes I want to save money! What would you use for a better objective? I thought the 70mm f1.4 was good. Is the f0.98 that much better? I see loupes of different mag. What would your preferred X be. What is the X of the eyepiece from Israel? Thanks for you help. Bruce |
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Posted: 1/20/2015 3:01:24 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By hatti:
hi Bruce the objective lens from link above will do fine,if you want to cut the cost of your project as much as possible. if you are going for performance,there are other options. as for eyepiece, you do not need whole monocular,although probably you could take it apart and use its eyepiece.
a jewelers loupe like this one should be enough: http://www.ebay.com/itm/10x-Watch-Magnifier-Jeweler-Loupe-Magnifing-Eye-Len-Repair-Kit-Jewelry-Repair-/200990525071?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_15&hash=item2ecbf8068f again,it is lowest cost option, for viewing comfort much better is an original AN/PVS-2 eyepiece. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Lens-for-VARO-Night-Vision-Monocular-Eyepiece-Device-/141120813954?&_trksid=p2056016.l4276 I ordered my AN/PVS-2 eyepiece from that vendor (art-in-part), and it came pretty quickly considering it came out of Israel. |
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LVA
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Posted: 1/20/2015 5:14:02 PM EDT
[#48]
@Mountaineer
yes,it is good reliable seller.i have bought lots of NV parts from them. mostly PVS-2 parts and some PVS-4 bits. there is also related seller called "Part2go",they have some PVS-5 parts for sale right now. @Bruce i have never used a loupe as eyepiece,so i have no advice, my first eyepiece was Plossl 25mm like this one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/1-25-Plossl-Eyepiece-25mm-/121478151724?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item1c48a97e2c 70/1.4 is very good for NV purposes. but f/.98 will gather twice as much light,however,depending on focal length,it may be too heavy and expensive to be practical. i use 75/1.1 lenses on my scopes. they come from imaging systems of older X-ray machines and can be found on ebay. their prices vary wildly from $20 to $1000,depends on seller. keywords for search - heligon,rayxar,kowa |
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TX, USA
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Posted: 1/20/2015 8:39:09 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Brucifer]
[#49]
Thanks, I can go with the Plossi eyepiece and the 50mm F1.4 for my first build. I want to power the cascade first. If I build a second I will use the correct eyepiece and either a heligon or a kowa. Yes I am still cheap. Waiting on the first cascade. It is still processing in the UK.
Edit: What do you guys think about this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/181624664649?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT |
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FL, USA
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Posted: 1/20/2015 9:41:39 PM EDT
[#50]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Brucifer:
Thanks, I can go with the Plossi eyepiece and the 50mm F1.4 for my first build. I want to power the cascade first. If I build a second I will use the correct eyepiece and either a heligon or a kowa. Yes I am still cheap. Waiting on the first cascade. It is still processing in the UK. Edit: What do you guys think about this? http://www.ebay.com/itm/181624664649?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT Thats $62 us. At that point just buy the pvs2 eyepiece for $65. It made my first build easy. |
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