Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login

Log In

A valid email is required.
Password is required.
Site Notices
6/21/2017 8:25:40 PM
Tacked DIY Cascade Tube Thread... (Page 15 of 16)
Page / 16
Link Posted: 1/21/2015 4:00:14 AM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By astross89:

Thats $62 us. At that point just buy the pvs2 eyepiece for $65. It made my first build easy.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By astross89:
Originally Posted By Brucifer:
Thanks, I can go with the Plossi eyepiece and the 50mm F1.4 for my first build. I want to power the cascade first. If I build a second I will use the correct eyepiece and either a heligon or a kowa. Yes I am still cheap. Waiting on the first cascade. It is still processing in the UK.

Edit:
What do you guys think about this?
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=3&campId=5337559805&toolId=10001&customId=j493l8dli100zk8a00004&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F181624664649.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

Thats $62 us. At that point just buy the pvs2 eyepiece for $65. It made my first build easy.


+1

Yukon's eyepieces are particularly shitty,because Yukon uses old soviet era intensifier tube,
which has .47x magnification.
Yukon compensates this by using short focal length oculars.

i had a monocular from Yukon before i learned about cascade,
the eyepiece was terrible.
Link Posted: 1/23/2015 4:32:45 PM EDT
I want to give a shout out for Anchor Supply, Ordered 1/17 received 1/22 Fed-x across the pound was fast. The eyepiece side rubber is a little crushed, but should be OK. The 3x48 unc is very hard for me to find on the net. I did find one on the cover plate of a hard drive. The local fastener store carries 3x48 only as a set screw (no head). Decided to go with my 50mm f1.4 for first objective. found a FD adaptor on ebat so I won't have to disassemble my AE1. If I build a aluminum housing I will go with the CCTV.

Thanks to cj7hawk for staring this thread and hatti for the fast replies.

Bruce
Link Posted: 1/25/2015 12:13:57 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By astross89:
Does any have the ability in the USA to thread my 3" aluminum pipe for my pvs2 eyepiece ring? (for a fee) My machine shops are stupid around here.
View Quote



Anyone please!!!!
Link Posted: 2/1/2015 1:20:32 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/2/2015 9:49:56 PM EDT by Brucifer]
I have my PVC version build. Will post pictures when I decide on a photo site.

http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bsracer85/media/NV-PVC_zpslzhiyurm.jpg.html?o=0
http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bsracer85/media/NV-PVC-parts_zpskezvcr5u.jpg.html?o=0
http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bsracer85/media/2ndNV_zpsirvkybrx.jpg.html?o=0

I have been looking at the eyepieces from ART-IN-PART incase I build a Alu. model. What are your opinions on his lens quality. They look very dirty but are they scratched and can they be cleaned?

Edit to add Pics
Did something wrong
Link Posted: 2/2/2015 11:05:28 PM EDT
How much tube life are you guys getting from these surplus cascades? I see gen 1 only has 1000 hours or so before the tube starts getting a reduction in illumination.
Link Posted: 2/3/2015 8:00:10 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/3/2015 8:03:22 AM EDT by Brucifer]
http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bsracer85/media/NV-PVC_zpslzhiyurm.jpg.html?o=0
http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bsracer85/media/NV-PVC-parts_zpskezvcr5u.jpg.html?o=0
http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bsracer85/media/2ndNV_zpsirvkybrx.jpg.html?o=0

I hope this works What am I doing wrong with the pictures?


Rainmaker, I cant speak for anyone else but, for me it is just a project to learn from with fun results. What is a NEW NV $2000+. I have less than $100 invested so far and my 35mm AE-1 still works.
Link Posted: 2/3/2015 8:51:29 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/3/2015 8:56:13 AM EDT by hatti]
hello,
congrats on your first build,Bruce!
looks really neat!

i put the link to my images between img..../img,
sometimes my browser shows pictures,but sometimes just links to them...
can't tell why.
may be the browser is to blame,may be board software.

i have bought 4 PVS-2 eyepieces from Artinpart and although their housings show signs of intensive and careless use,
the glass is clean and free from scratches.
i would guess that they were used along with eye cups and the eye cups did protect rear glass.
that is only my limited experience.

seller declares that items are untested and MAY be defective.
Link Posted: 2/3/2015 8:56:53 AM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Brucifer:
I hope this works
View Quote




Link Posted: 2/3/2015 12:03:36 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/3/2015 6:36:16 PM EDT by Brucifer]
Thanks for the help with the pictures. I am trying to come up with a mount for the batteries from a 3xAAA flash light to use the off/on switch.

http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bsracer85/media/Boom6mon_zpssht20sis.jpg.

My house alarm.

Could it be my post count?
Link Posted: 2/12/2015 9:20:01 AM EDT
Will this work as the objective lens?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=3&campId=5337559805&toolId=10001&customId=j493l8it2m00zk8a00004&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F321642845004.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The 75mm lens looks great to me but I wounder what the small end will do to my field of view? Thanks for any input.
Link Posted: 2/12/2015 9:26:41 AM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Brucifer:
Thanks for the help with the pictures. I am trying to come up with a mount for the batteries from a 3xAAA flash light to use the off/on switch.

http://s1379.photobucket.com/user/bsracer85/media/Boom6mon_zpssht20sis.jpg.

My house alarm.

Could it be my post count?
View Quote


Good looking dog :)


In photobucket, click on the "Direct" link to copy the photo's address. Then when posting a pic, select the photo button and paste that link in
Link Posted: 2/12/2015 11:33:32 AM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Brucifer:
Will this work as the objective lens?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=3&campId=5337559805&toolId=10001&customId=j493l8ko7h00zk8a00004&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F321642845004.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT

The 75mm lens looks great to me but I wounder what the small end will do to my field of view? Thanks for any input.
View Quote


these lenses are well suited for 25mm photocathode,
i use one with gen2 25mm tube and there is no vignetting.
infinity focal plane is 5...6mm from rear glass element.
weight is around 700 grams.

they have good aperture/magnification/weight ratio for riflescope use.

and...

i have one of those alarms too


Link Posted: 2/14/2015 8:45:32 AM EDT
Greetings everybody, this is my first post,I just found this website and I am fascinated by all the info in this thread!

I bought a Varo cascade tube from a seller in Israel a couple of months ago and built a scope with the tube and the optics from an old binocular.
I was able to use both the bino's objective and also the ocular with almost no modifications, the only disadvantage is that the whole assembly got somewhat long:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/90601329@N02/16338553518/

It also includes a small infrared beam, made out of a couple of infrared leds, enough to illuminate up to 20 meters distance.
The varo tube generates an almost excessive amount of green light, enough to leave you night blind on one eye for a while.
It however generates a large amount of background noise, scintillation, as well, which limits visibility under low light conditions. The whole thing allows you to see somewhat, but only somewhat, better than the naked eye well adapted to darkness. I also bought a 8079 tube from the UK, but have not yet tried it.

I am now starting to play with a different approach, using a CCD cam with digital signal processor and an old viewfinder from a camcorder. The whole stuff costs below $100 and first results are promising.
Link Posted: 2/23/2015 10:04:06 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/24/2015 1:26:05 PM EDT by wachtelhund]
Its been a while since I logged onto this thread. Since then I and my gunsmith built two of these units in machined aluminum housings with P8079 tubes. I did the proto-types and mock ups, he did the machining. We eventually upgraded to PVS-2 front and rear objectives. Then glued reticles to the front of our P8079 tubes. I eventually purchased a PVS-2 housing and needed parts for one of the tubes. I purchased a second tube and PVS-2 housing. I have since moved my two P8079 tubes and objectives to both PVS-2 housings and have them mounted on AR's. Here is one of the two. I cut the battery and oscillator compartments off the top of the PVS-2 housing, filled the opening in and put a flashlight on top for the battery holder.

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p131/wachtelhund1/P2230004_zpsuytt1qso.jpg


This last fall I purchased a PVS-4 with 3rd Gen tube.

I no longer need my original aluminum housing or lens and have put them up for sale on the Equipment Exchange -
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_7_172/1407660_DIY_Cascade_Night_Vision_Scope_Machined_Aluminum_Housing_w__Lens_For_Sale.html

All that is need is a P8079 tube and batteries.



Link Posted: 3/3/2015 9:26:35 AM EDT
Hi All,

I am getting further with my build now and not too far away from being finished I hope.

I went with an aluminium housing in the end and took it out a few night ago to compare it with a set of early gen 3 PVS7s (not sure on the tube) that my friend has and we came to the conclusion that it was very comparable indeed. In-fact I would say that the p8079hp with the PVS2 lens was actually clearer. It also seems to be far more sensitive to IR light. I had a 5mw 780nm ir laser and it was far too bright to use.

The only downside was that it had lots of static charges. When i did my prototype using the pringles can it was perfect and no shocks at all. I am guessing because the pringles can is foil lined with insulating cardboard on the outside it worked as a faraday cage. This wasnt intended but a bit of a fluke.

Now that i have an aluminium housing. what is the best way to protect from static?

Should i insulate the tube first, then cover in aluminium foil, then insulate, then place in housing?

would the following anti static bags be a good idea for insulation? pink or metalic? or would you recommend something else?

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/anti-static-metallised-bag-150mm-x-250mm-n89hy?gclid=Cj0KEQiA1NWnBRDchObfnYrbo78BEiQA-2jqBRh1qtV2DhWPin0PoBbtOGAdyiX6mIe_1e6G4zHjZdwaAgCZ8P8HAQ

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/anti-static-esd-bag-250mm-x-150mm-n90hy?gclid=Cj0KEQiA1NWnBRDchObfnYrbo78BEiQA-2jqBaK5szKvRTJ0hOmwRSyvc2kY5laKe0tB9PA1WZ8FVj­UaAnip8P8HAQ

Thanks in advance and for all the help so far

Link Posted: 3/3/2015 3:17:56 PM EDT
hi,bobsboy

connecting the negative wire to the metal housing may solve static charge problem.

did you do it already?
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 5:30:26 AM EDT
Hi Hatti,

I have not tried that, I will give that a go and let you know how I get on.

Thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it.
Link Posted: 3/4/2015 10:36:20 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By wachtelhund:
Its been a while since I logged onto this thread. Since then I and my gunsmith built two of these units in machined aluminum housings with P8079 tubes. I did the proto-types and mock ups, he did the machining. We eventually upgraded to PVS-2 front and rear objectives. Then glued reticles to the front of our P8079 tubes. I eventually purchased a PVS-2 housing and needed parts for one of the tubes. I purchased a second tube and PVS-2 housing. I have since moved my two P8079 tubes and objectives to both PVS-2 housings and have them mounted on AR's. Here is one of the two. I cut the battery and oscillator compartments off the top of the PVS-2 housing, filled the opening in and put a flashlight on top for the battery holder.

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p131/wachtelhund1/P2230004_zpsuytt1qso.jpg


This last fall I purchased a PVS-4 with 3rd Gen tube.

I no longer need my original aluminum housing or lens and have put them up for sale on the Equipment Exchange -
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_7_172/1407660_DIY_Cascade_Night_Vision_Scope_Machined_Aluminum_Housing_w__Lens_For_Sale.html

All that is need is a P8079 tube and batteries.



View Quote
Is your mount adjustable and what is it?
Link Posted: 3/5/2015 1:27:18 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/5/2015 1:28:31 PM EDT by YuriFink]
Hi its me again =)
So i finally got all my parts together, ironically the major problem was actually finding a proper housing.
Eventually I ended up using dense carton postal tube.
I installed the lens with the adapter and the 2 spacers that came with it. I needed no shimming Because the 2 spacers did that role already.
http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6531721992.html?orderId=66157179956674
Anyway I also noticed that the tube doesn't need to get power all the time, you can save much energy by turning it off for 5 seconds off and then for 5 on(repeatedly).
Did anyone here used some sort of 555 based clocking or any other type of power control?
Ill be posting some pics later on!
Link Posted: 3/5/2015 2:36:16 PM EDT
Many thanks Hatti, I have tried that now and it worked. The build continues! :)







Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By hatti:
hi,bobsboy

connecting the negative wire to the metal housing may solve static charge problem.

did you do it already?
View Quote

Link Posted: 3/7/2015 5:16:33 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/7/2015 5:31:41 AM EDT by Dr_Dickie]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By YuriFink:
Hi its me again =)
So i finally got all my parts together, ironically the major problem was actually finding a proper housing.
Eventually I ended up using dense carton postal tube.
I installed the lens with the adapter and the 2 spacers that came with it. I needed no shimming Because the 2 spacers did that role already.
http://www.aliexpress.com/snapshot/6531721992.html?orderId=66157179956674
Anyway I also noticed that the tube doesn't need to get power all the time, you can save much energy by turning it off for 5 seconds off and then for 5 on(repeatedly).
Did anyone here used some sort of 555 based clocking or any other type of power control?
Ill be posting some pics later on!
View Quote

Probably does not really save a lot of power, as once fully charged, the amperage used is probably about the same whether letting it run, or letting it drain and then charging it up again.
At least that would be my guess.
Link Posted: 3/7/2015 4:38:36 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By bobsboy2007:
Many thanks Hatti, I have tried that now and it worked. The build continues! :)








View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By bobsboy2007:
Many thanks Hatti, I have tried that now and it worked. The build continues! :)







Originally Posted By hatti:
hi,bobsboy

connecting the negative wire to the metal housing may solve static charge problem.

did you do it already?



glad to hear that!
please post some pics when finished!
Link Posted: 3/13/2015 7:54:26 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/13/2015 7:56:42 AM EDT by YuriFink]
Ok, so here is my build:
http://postimg.org/image/8o4z4m1d5/
http://postimg.org/image/69l1ogzh7/
http://postimg.org/image/z0u1nk6mt/
The aiming thing wasn't a big deal, I used a gun the position the tube, aimed it with laser from the bun barrel, and then I made cuts in the housing for the rails.
But it's fixed for this gun and for me. Impossible to change.
Same is the ocular, because i used cheap loupe with no adjustment assembly.
It will get colored again soon.

I took it outside the city into a very dark area about 1KM away with no direct light from the city. It was a cloudy night, so no moon and no stars. There was some light pollution on the clouds from the city.
The camera couldn't focus on the image properly the true image is more than twice as better.
http://postimg.org/image/yjeqsi4yj/
http://postimg.org/image/cwk4uuusp/
http://postimg.org/image/d5gmp06zt/

The first pic was taken on a pitch black field, even when my eyes got used to darkness the bush was total dark spot. As i said, the real image is much much better than the photo.
The second one is my black colored car, was impassible to see it with naked eye from 25 meters.
3rd one is another pitch blacked area, shame that the camera didn't get the details.

I am waiting now for the 75mm lens to get some X1.5

I have Cyclop1 NV, Zenit NV-100 and another one GEN1 NV. All bought used for about 180-250$
This build is cheap as each one of them. Works X3 times as better!

Final pic soon!
Link Posted: 3/13/2015 9:31:06 AM EDT
congrats on finishing your build!

by the way you already have one very good lens on your hands - it is Helios 85/1.5 (or even 85/1.2) M42 mount lens
on your Cyclop gen1 scope.

bad thing about it is M42 mount,incompatible with your housing.
Link Posted: 3/25/2015 5:28:55 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By hugh1:
Is your mount adjustable and what is it?
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By hugh1:
Originally Posted By wachtelhund:
Its been a while since I logged onto this thread. Since then I and my gunsmith built two of these units in machined aluminum housings with P8079 tubes. I did the proto-types and mock ups, he did the machining. We eventually upgraded to PVS-2 front and rear objectives. Then glued reticles to the front of our P8079 tubes. I eventually purchased a PVS-2 housing and needed parts for one of the tubes. I purchased a second tube and PVS-2 housing. I have since moved my two P8079 tubes and objectives to both PVS-2 housings and have them mounted on AR's. Here is one of the two. I cut the battery and oscillator compartments off the top of the PVS-2 housing, filled the opening in and put a flashlight on top for the battery holder.

http://i127.photobucket.com/albums/p131/wachtelhund1/P2230004_zpsuytt1qso.jpg


This last fall I purchased a PVS-4 with 3rd Gen tube.

I no longer need my original aluminum housing or lens and have put them up for sale on the Equipment Exchange -
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_7_172/1407660_DIY_Cascade_Night_Vision_Scope_Machined_Aluminum_Housing_w__Lens_For_Sale.html

All that is need is a P8079 tube and batteries.



Is your mount adjustable and what is it?


Yes, it is adjustable. Its an old Bausch & Lomb adjustable mount fro the 60"s. B&L scopes back then had no internal adjustments. The mounts provided the adjustment. Rifle shoot MOA groups with these mounts and the reticles that I glued to the front of the tube.
Link Posted: 4/28/2015 1:24:00 AM EDT
David,
This post of yours was my first exposure to NV devices after I built my own from your instructions. Thanks for sharing.

Since then, I bought a few thousand dollars worth of NV. Lately a few friends and I have spent evenings over the weekend viewing the night sky. We have seen many stars, planets, and satellites. We have also seen some things I can hardly begin to describe and have no real explanation for.

Perhaps this deserves a thread of its own, but have you had any experiences like this as well?
Link Posted: 4/28/2015 5:28:12 PM EDT
Maybe a dumb question, but will this work? Ordered my tube early this week, looking forward to the build.

http://whatacountry.com/PVS-2-Body-and-Objective-Lens.aspx
Link Posted: 4/28/2015 8:41:28 PM EDT
The PVS-2 housing you have linked to at whatacountry will work great for your tube. However unless you bought an AN/PVS-2 specific tube you won't be able to use it as a rifle site unless you create your own. The tubes used for the AN/PVS-2 had a reticle bonded to the photocathode side (which is why the mount moves the whole scope to zero it). You will also need to either buy some extra PVS-2 parts (the HV oscillator cap, continuity block, and cap) to connect the tube or run a wire directly to the tube from the contact in the front compartment.

The PVS-2 lens is great and the housing is pretty well done so you've got a great start for a viewer you just have to do a little extra work or buy some extra parts.
Link Posted: 4/28/2015 10:17:05 PM EDT
I like the looks of it, but by the time you buy all the pieces it is pretty expensive.

I actually had an epiphany while considering mounting everything. Has anyone mounted one in a 70mm telescope? I can score one for about $40 with a tripod. Nice end fittings could probably be utilized, built in mount, etc.

Link Posted: 5/3/2015 12:34:02 AM EDT
OK, so i assembled everything and powered it up to give it a test run before I start shimming the tube in my pipe, and the image coming from my viewing lens is inverted....
take the view lens off, and the image coming from the phosphor screen is not inverted. What gives?
Link Posted: 5/12/2015 10:01:54 PM EDT
Well, mine sorta up and running in test mode. I need to fine tune things. Honestly it is just too bright in any environment I can test right now.

OP, I have to say thanks, way cooler than I expected.
Link Posted: 5/17/2015 10:46:10 AM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By SAnuke84:
OK, so i assembled everything and powered it up to give it a test run before I start shimming the tube in my pipe, and the image coming from my viewing lens is inverted....
take the view lens off, and the image coming from the phosphor screen is not inverted. What gives?
View Quote

What kind of lens did you use to view the screen? Normally you need something simple like a lupe - or just a magnifying glass.

Sounds like you have a nifty inverting lens there -

David
Link Posted: 5/17/2015 10:51:15 AM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By Sturmgewehr-58:
David,
This post of yours was my first exposure to NV devices after I built my own from your instructions. Thanks for sharing.

Since then, I bought a few thousand dollars worth of NV. Lately a few friends and I have spent evenings over the weekend viewing the night sky. We have seen many stars, planets, and satellites. We have also seen some things I can hardly begin to describe and have no real explanation for.

Perhaps this deserves a thread of its own, but have you had any experiences like this as well?
View Quote
I know someone saw a UFO... We worked out in the end what secret aircraft they were testing and where their test base was located based on advertised job positions in the area -

But in the end, he was too disappointed it wasn't aliens, so decided it wasn't the secret aircraft being tested afterall.

Anyway, I've seen "unlisted" satellites being adjusted in orbit, and stuff like that... I see a lot of early-evening meteors as well.

I think a lot of cryptozoologists are reporting more sightings through NV too... That in itself might find a few more nocternal creatures.

David.
Link Posted: 6/18/2015 9:13:06 AM EDT
Hi All,

I got to this stage a month or 2 ago, it was a bit rushed in the end as I really wanted to use it for a milsim (airsoft). There are defiantly changes that I want to make. The first is that the focus isn't 100% correct in that it tries to go beyond infinity, not by much but I'm guessing changing the distance between the lens and intensifier will fix this.

The other issue is that i mounted the cmount plate backwards inside the tube so that the lens has to go into the tube. i did this to make it rock solid in case it gets knocked when in buildings going through mouseholes etc but the downside is that i cant switch lenses.


But it focuses near and far so it works as required. It really is clear and in my opinion better than a friends pvs 7. He agreed and has now bought a pvs 14.

I will do more to this in the future to make it better but here are some pictures in the mean time. Massive thanks for all the help so far especially to David and Hatti.

I am already thinking about the next project. Maybe an MX10160 Any advise on this would be much appreciated. Being able to helmet mount would be good.



http://airsoftteam.azexis.com/content/images/nods/1.jpg

http://airsoftteam.azexis.com/content/images/nods/2.jpg

http://airsoftteam.azexis.com/content/images/nods/3.jpg

http://airsoftteam.azexis.com/content/images/nods/4.jpg
Link Posted: 6/20/2015 1:15:52 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By bobsboy2007:
Hi All,

I got to this stage a month or 2 ago, it was a bit rushed in the end as I really wanted to use it for a milsim (airsoft). There are defiantly changes that I want to make. The first is that the focus isn't 100% correct in that it tries to go beyond infinity, not by much but I'm guessing changing the distance between the lens and intensifier will fix this.

The other issue is that i mounted the cmount plate backwards inside the tube so that the lens has to go into the tube. i did this to make it rock solid in case it gets knocked when in buildings going through mouseholes etc but the downside is that i cant switch lenses.


But it focuses near and far so it works as required. It really is clear and in my opinion better than a friends pvs 7. He agreed and has now bought a pvs 14.

I will do more to this in the future to make it better but here are some pictures in the mean time. Massive thanks for all the help so far especially to David and Hatti.

I am already thinking about the next project. Maybe an MX10160 Any advise on this would be much appreciated. Being able to helmet mount would be good.



http://airsoftteam.azexis.com/content/images/nods/1.jpg

http://airsoftteam.azexis.com/content/images/nods/2.jpg

http://airsoftteam.azexis.com/content/images/nods/3.jpg

http://airsoftteam.azexis.com/content/images/nods/4.jpg
View Quote



neat!

does it feed on coin cells and where is the switch?

regarding head mountable monocular,i have built one recently.
here is link to the thread - http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_18/445506_DIY_monocular___f9800c_tube_plus_PVS_5_optics.html

and i must say...
that NV business is addictive.
Link Posted: 6/22/2015 9:55:46 AM EDT
Hi Hatti,

yes it uses a 2 x cr2032 battery holder (link below) it has an inbuilt switch, which is very small small switch on it. Although its small it is very square of its easy to feel in the dark. Its hard to see in the images but its at the 7 o'clock position.

battery holder

Yes this is very addictive and the cascade project has done its job in helping me learn the basics. But i am keen to do another project. But i feel that this project has probably created more questions for me :)

I will do some more research before i ask more questions here as i am sure some of my questions are answered elsewhere.

Although i didnt use it for this project as i wanted to see if i could get results with some basic tools, I do have a myford lathe and i would like to make the next project out of delrin and make it head mountable. I will either try and get a real rhino mount or see if i can utilise an airsoft clone L4G24 mount.

I have wondered though whether its possible to put a gen 3 tube in a gen 1 device. Eg i see that the pulsar challenger comes in gen1 and gen3 options. But im sure its not that simple due to input and output window sizes etc.



Link Posted: 6/25/2015 9:46:32 AM EDT
I have some questions for my next project if thats ok.

I hope to use an mx10160. Ideally head mounted so i would need fairly close to a 1:1 magnification.

I think that in an ideal world i would use a pvs5 objective and eyepiece but getting hold of them in the UK is tricky.

So i would like to use a 25mm f1.4 cctv cmount lens. Are there any disadvantages to this over a 50mm lens? Presumably the mounting distance to the input window on the tube is still 17.5 mm.

With regards to an eyepiece, would it be possible to use a microscope eyepiece such as the item linked to below?

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/WF10X-20mm-Biological-or-Stereo-Microscope-Ajustable-Wide-Angle-Eyepiece-Lens-with-Mounting-Size-30mm-Add/866383311.html

Many thanks
Link Posted: 6/27/2015 3:35:40 AM EDT
a 25mm CCTV lens is fine - Find the fastest you can, and ideally get a 4/3 model, or a 1" model. A 2/3 is next best and 1/3 will still work, but with substantial vignetting. A 25mm one will give you 40 degrees FOV, while a 50mm will make eyepiece selection difficult.

Look for a 25mm PLOSSL lens for a cheap eyepiece - from a telescope - A 1.25" 25mm plossl will cost around $30 and will work well.

Regards
David.
Link Posted: 6/30/2015 2:27:18 PM EDT
Many thanks David.

I shall try and find an appropriate lens
Link Posted: 7/25/2015 12:48:55 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/25/2015 1:58:50 AM EDT by AusKahless]
Hello everyone,
Just thought i would share a few pics of my cascade tubes humble beginnings, i have an 80mm aluminium tube on the way for the housing, i would have liked to try carbon fibre tubing for the housing as i like the look but it was just to costly to justify, so i settled for some smaller tubing that fits 4 AAs just nicely, a carbon fibre battery housing will have to do, the other lens in the picture is a Kowa 55mm f1 lens i picked up NOS, looks like a c/cs mount but it is slightly (1mm) larger, testing with a lamp and wall the projected image looked in focus about 12.5 mm from output lens, so similar to cs i guess, i am working in autocad inventor to make 3d printed ends that hold the pvs-2 occular and the objective, my plan is to have an externally threaded tube hold the objective lens and an internally threaded tube on the end cap so i can have some kind of manual focus with the objective lens, will see how that pans out since my cad skills are a bit rusty. I wont even mention what i paid for the pvs-2 eyepiece, seems they are getting a bit rare outside the US. Thanks for starting this thread David, i am now officially hooked on NV, and thanks everyone else that has posted, i read the whole thread and gleaned ideas off everyone, i will post more picks of completed scope soon.

http://i62.tinypic.com/k3gba.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/2vvl1tx.jpg
Link Posted: 7/25/2015 5:59:35 AM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By AusKahless:
Hello everyone,
Just thought i would share a few pics of my cascade tubes humble beginnings, i have an 80mm aluminium tube on the way for the housing, i would have liked to try carbon fibre tubing for the housing as i like the look but it was just to costly to justify, so i settled for some smaller tubing that fits 4 AAs just nicely, a carbon fibre battery housing will have to do, the other lens in the picture is a Kowa 55mm f1 lens i picked up NOS, looks like a c/cs mount but it is slightly (1mm) larger, testing with a lamp and wall the projected image looked in focus about 12.5 mm from output lens, so similar to cs i guess, i am working in autocad inventor to make 3d printed ends that hold the pvs-2 occular and the objective, my plan is to have an externally threaded tube hold the objective lens and an internally threaded tube on the end cap so i can have some kind of manual focus with the objective lens, will see how that pans out since my cad skills are a bit rusty. I wont even mention what i paid for the pvs-2 eyepiece, seems they are getting a bit rare outside the US. Thanks for starting this thread David, i am now officially hooked on NV, and thanks everyone else that has posted, i read the whole thread and gleaned ideas off everyone, i will post more picks of completed scope soon.

htttp://i62.tinypic.com/k3gba.jpg

http://i60.tinypic.com/2vvl1tx.jpg
View Quote



hi

i had a Kowa 55/1 lens for some time,liked it a lot.

it was very bright,
but its image size was a bit insufficient for 25mm photocathode,therefore little vignetting was present.

i would estimate its image plane size around 20mm.

also 12.5mm distance seems to me too big,
maybe it is not infinity focus,because object (the lamp) was too close?
usually these lenses have 5...8mm back focal distance.

try to focus outside scene image on a wall that is opposite to a window.

good luck with your build!
Link Posted: 7/25/2015 6:50:12 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 7/25/2015 7:25:18 AM EDT by AusKahless]
Heya Hatti,
Yes you are correct, i just focused the image of one end of the house to the other about 15 metres and the focal plane was around what you said, looked to be 6-7mm, thanks for that, i guess my bedside lamp was just to close. I really like the Kowa lens it feels so solid, just something about it, makes my $40 fotasy 50mm lens from amazon feel like cheap junk (probably because it is), thanks again!
Link Posted: 7/25/2015 10:55:26 PM EDT
AusKahless,

Does Autodesk Inventor support AutoLISP code? If so, I have some routines that will automatically generate threads conforming to most standards, single or multi-index - Very useful if you're 3D printing threads ( including with the inside-threads routine allowing for offset for 3D printing to ensure correct clearances ).

PM me if that would help - last I tried them on Autodesk, it wasn't perfect ( some of the functions have changed ) but the remaining steps could be completed manually still.

Regards
David
Link Posted: 8/7/2015 8:58:08 AM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By bobsboy2007:
I have some questions for my next project if thats ok.

I hope to use an mx10160. Ideally head mounted so i would need fairly close to a 1:1 magnification.

I think that in an ideal world i would use a pvs5 objective and eyepiece but getting hold of them in the UK is tricky.

So i would like to use a 25mm f1.4 cctv cmount lens. Are there any disadvantages to this over a 50mm lens? Presumably the mounting distance to the input window on the tube is still 17.5 mm.

With regards to an eyepiece, would it be possible to use a microscope eyepiece such as the item linked to below?

http://www.aliexpress.com/item/WF10X-20mm-Biological-or-Stereo-Microscope-Ajustable-Wide-Angle-Eyepiece-Lens-with-Mounting-Size-30mm-Add/866383311.html

Many thanks
View Quote


hi Bobsboy

they are available on ebay and they are cheap,although cosmetic condition is quite bad,they are still fully functional.

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=3&campId=5337559805&toolId=10001&customId=j493l8xxyo00zk8a00004&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F281416428578

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/1/711-53200-19255-0/1?type=3&campId=5337559805&toolId=10001&customId=j493l8z5cr00zk8a00004&mpre=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F271696836193

regards
Andris.
Link Posted: 8/7/2015 4:17:15 PM EDT
Thanks Andris, but unfortunately they won't ship to the United Kingdom :(

For the objective lens I am torn between a computar 25mm f1.3 lens but its 2/3 or a pentax 25mm f1.4 for 1". Or one of the cheapy Fujian 25mm f1.4 lense but they are for 1/2 sensor, however they do seem popular with the 4/3 community. All are c-mont

for the eyepiece i have a 25mm 1.25" telescope eyepiece. But am also considering a 27mm 1.25" eyepiece that has a diopter. But this wont give me a true 1x magnification. Because i dont need glasses, i am considering using the 25mm eyepiece and not having adjustement, In the past i have found the eye focus a pain rather than a help.

http://www.rothervalleyoptics.co.uk/antares-27mm-cross-hair-kellner-eyepiece-125.html

I am leaning towards using commercially available lenses rather than the pvs-5 simply because i am considering selling the delrin housings i make (to team mates who have shown an interest) and a reliable supply of lenses would be useful.
Link Posted: 8/12/2015 6:06:14 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/12/2015 9:20:01 AM EDT by AusKahless]
Hey everyone, tube is coming along nicely, i used a couple of threaded pvc pipe ends to experiment with an adjustable focus for the fixed focus Kowa lens, the end that fits around the photocathode slipped on so perfectly it was like it was made for it, most of the fitting was cutting them to the correct length, then i used some plumbers tape to take up the slack in the loose threading. I am thinking i could use the 3d printed end David designed to hold the pvs-2 occular on to hold my pvc threaded end on and pop it into my aluminium tube.
I have an ITT gen 3 f9800c tube which i picked up for fairly cheap (i think) on its way for my next project, i can not seem to find any info in wiring one up, it has the rectangular pad on the side for some kind of pigtail, i am guessing someone has more information on how to wire one up and required voltages, any info would be a great help.
http://i60.tinypic.com/1052pf6.jpg

http://i57.tinypic.com/33euc6q.jpg

http://i61.tinypic.com/nzepl2.jpg

Seems i have a choice of near or far for focus, these fast lenses don't have a huge depth of field, looks a lot better through the unit, i have much respect for anyone that can get a decent photo through one of these. http://i59.tinypic.com/2ah63o2.jpg
Link Posted: 8/12/2015 5:38:54 PM EDT
this may help (pdf below). From what i have read, the gold pad is the positive terminal and the body is the negative. A cr123a (3V) battery is a good power source.

http://www.nightvision.com/products/files/2005914850170.mx10160_f9800_domestic.pdf

The pdf also has some measurements regarding how recessed the input and output windows are.

I am doing a similar gen 3 project as you so please keep us updated with your progress.
Link Posted: 8/12/2015 9:25:50 PM EDT
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Originally Posted By bobsboy2007:
this may help (pdf below). From what i have read, the gold pad is the positive terminal and the body is the negative. A cr123a (3V) battery is a good power source.

http://www.nightvision.com/products/files/2005914850170.mx10160_f9800_domestic.pdf

The pdf also has some measurements regarding how recessed the input and output windows are.

I am doing a similar gen 3 project as you so please keep us updated with your progress.
View Quote


Thankyou bobsboy, that is very helpful, i am not sure yet which route to take with a gen 3 tube, i want it to be head mountable as well as be able to put it on my Howa .243, ive been considering getting a fake pvs-14 and adapting it or Davids DBT-44 printed housing is looking mighty fine, both routes look like they would take some fitting and tuning, which keeps it fun and i will probably stick to c-mount lenses and plossl eyepiece lenses, but yeah i will keep you updated (with pics) for sure.
Thanks again man!
Link Posted: 8/18/2015 8:04:47 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/18/2015 8:14:30 AM EDT by AusKahless]
These lenses look for pretty good value considering their speed,
both for 1 inch sensor, so around 16mm diameter, c mount, might loose a bit of image on gen 3 tube, but so fast.

http://www.rmaelectronics.com/goyo-optical-gmv42595mc-1-25mm-f0-95-manual-iris-c-mount-lens-m40-5-x-p0-5-filter-thread/

And
http://www.rmaelectronics.com/senko-vfa2595h-1-25mm-f0-95-manual-iris-c-mount-lens-1-3-megapixel-rated/

Also an excellent list of fast lenses here.
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lens_speed#Fast lenses
Link Posted: 8/18/2015 8:38:30 AM EDT
They look really good. And thats a handy list to have.

A bit pricey for me at the moment. And because I will be using this for airsoft and I bash my head alot in cqb, meaning that the lens will probably be taking a fair bit of impact impact, I have got a pentax f1.4 25mm lens. Its for a 1" sensor and is fairly cheap second hand. Because they are all cmount i am going cheap to start with and will upgrade later.

I think the most tricky bit of the build will be the eyepiece. What are your plans regarding this?

What are you going to make your housing from, i'm goint to try delrin.
Page / 16
Tacked DIY Cascade Tube Thread... (Page 15 of 16)
Top Top