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Posted: 10/26/2017 8:37:10 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By CT-Shooter:
https://i.imgur.com/Kuc7AT4.jpg |
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Posted: 10/26/2017 9:30:13 PM EDT
[Last Edit: GripnAK47s]
[#2]
PVS14 / INVG Mount
TW Exfil LTP with TW cover running OpsCore Wilcox lanyard strap setup MSA Sordin Ear Pro with Unity Tactical SARA adapters on Peltor QD helmet adapters Surefire M300V-B Nav Light with DIY mount MPLS Red/White Admin light with DIY mount TNVC Mohawk MK1 with added diy dummy shock cord strap setup SS Precision Manta Strobe 
Edit: For anyone curious, a 1/4-20 square nut will slide right in the TW rails. 
Full weight kit and full batteries and as shown: 5lb 8.1oz |
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Posted: 10/26/2017 9:41:57 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GripnAK47s:
New helmet setup for incoming Sentinels. (INVG and PVS14 just a placeholder...will be running G24) TW Exfil LTP with TW cover running OpsCore Wilcox lanyard strap setup MSA Sordin Ear Pro with Unity Tactical SARA adapters on Peltor QD helmet adapters Surefire M300V-B Nav Light with custom mount MPLS Red/White Admin light with custom mount TNVC Mohawk MK1 with added diy dummy shock cord strap setup SS Precision Manta Strobe https://i.imgur.com/0TB8Zt6.jpg https://i.imgur.com/DK204su.jpg https://i.imgur.com/kJ887xz.jpg https://i.imgur.com/y77f5Ik.jpg https://i.imgur.com/J1TBAsN.jpg |
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NH, USA
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Posted: 10/27/2017 12:10:48 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By vanrichten:
How do you like the INVG and the Sentinels? I am using a Wilcox G24 right now on a TW ballistic and it doesn't come down far enough for my face shape/eye position. I've been looking at that INVG but haven't seen anyone running it with Sentinels. everyone says g24 is the way to go. |
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NH, USA
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Posted: 10/27/2017 12:12:57 AM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By GripnAK47s:
New helmet setup for incoming Sentinels. (INVG and PVS14 just a placeholder...will be running G24) TW Exfil LTP with TW cover running OpsCore Wilcox lanyard strap setup MSA Sordin Ear Pro with Unity Tactical SARA adapters on Peltor QD helmet adapters Surefire M300V-B Nav Light with DIY mount MPLS Red/White Admin light with DIY mount TNVC Mohawk MK1 with added diy dummy shock cord strap setup SS Precision Manta Strobe https://i.imgur.com/0TB8Zt6.jpg Edit: For anyone curious, a 1/4-20 square nut will slide right in the TW rails. https://i.imgur.com/DK204su.jpg https://i.imgur.com/kJ887xz.jpg https://i.imgur.com/y77f5Ik.jpg https://i.imgur.com/J1TBAsN.jpg Full weight kit and full batteries and as shown: 5lb 8.1oz |
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Posted: 11/3/2017 6:45:53 PM EDT
[#6]
I had my anvis converted to Mod 3's. Now I just need to get a Norotos Lo-Sto, so I can put the INVG back with my PVS-14 on my loaner helmet. |
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USA
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Posted: 11/3/2017 7:08:01 PM EDT
[Last Edit: contax_shooter]
[#7]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 4DoorEKk:
I bought the unity Mark’s first and ended up ordering the ARCs the day the Mark’s arrived. IMO having the ability to click them out for some air and just the ARC’s overall movement outweighs the rail space you save with the Marks. And the bolts on the Marks kept loosening up on me when I would rotate them. I suppose I could have tried loctite. -Shitty cell phone pic- http://i66.tinypic.com/2bxnqg.jpg The MARK didn’t have a captive crimp for the steel wires so the ear would occasionally fall off and the wire digs into my head. 
4D pads are expensive as hell. In fact, this whole helmet setup turned expensive as hell after the pads and Team Wendy straps. |
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CT, USA
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Posted: 11/6/2017 5:40:32 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 4DoorEKk]
[#8]
Nice setup. The helmet is an ops core I’m assuming? The TW Camfit harness is awesome tho isn’t it? I plan on upgrading to the 4g pads or the TW pad setup with the air channels. Haven’t decided on which yet.
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USA
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Posted: 11/7/2017 8:08:35 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 4DoorEKk:
Nice setup. The helmet is an ops core I’m assuming? The TW Camfit harness is awesome tho isn’t it? I plan on upgrading to the 4g pads or the TW pad setup with the air channels. Haven’t decided on which yet. |
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WA, USA
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Posted: 11/7/2017 10:27:30 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By contax_shooter:
It’s a HHV ATE helmet. I'd love to spring for the zero G pads but I'm vaclempt on the price. |
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USA
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Posted: 11/7/2017 10:37:14 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By scottr:
Were the HHV pads really that bad? I'd love to spring for the zero G pads but I'm vaclempt on the price. |
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Posted: 11/8/2017 3:58:24 PM EDT
[Last Edit: Couch-Commando]
[#12]
I updated my helmet. I had an extra Streamlight laying around that I mounted. I finally found a range that lets me shoot in the dark, so I added some red LEDs so that other shooters can tell where I'm at. I'm thinking I may get a new chin strap next.
 Attached File |
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CT, USA
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Posted: 11/9/2017 6:55:32 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Couch-Commando:
I updated my helmet. I had an extra Streamlight laying around that I mounted. I finally found a range that lets me shoot in the dark, so I added some red LEDs so that other shooters can tell where I'm at. I'm thinking I may get a new chin strap next. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/74831/20171108_145249-356995.JPG |
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Posted: 11/9/2017 9:41:57 AM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 4DoorEKk:
Where’d you get that patch? Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 4DoorEKk:
Originally Posted By Couch-Commando:
I updated my helmet. I had an extra Streamlight laying around that I mounted. I finally found a range that lets me shoot in the dark, so I added some red LEDs so that other shooters can tell where I'm at. I'm thinking I may get a new chin strap next. https://www.ar15.com/media/mediaFiles/74831/20171108_145249-356995.JPG |
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CT, USA
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Posted: 11/9/2017 1:04:46 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By DirtyHandsRob:
he made it. there was a thread a year or two ago about it. |
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Posted: 11/9/2017 3:43:31 PM EDT
[#16]
Probably a dumb question, as I'm sure it's most likely me screwing something up...but anyone have issues with where the ARC rail adapters connect to the Peltor constantly poking them in the cheek?
I like the setup, but the constant cheek poking (no, not that kind!) drives me nuts. FWIW, Ops-Core FAST Bump & Peltor MT15H69BB-47 |
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Posted: 11/9/2017 4:49:05 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SxPxDx:
Probably a dumb question, as I'm sure it's most likely me screwing something up...but anyone have issues with where the ARC rail adapters connect to the Peltor constantly poking them in the cheek? I like the setup, but the constant cheek poking (no, not that kind!) drives me nuts. FWIW, Ops-Core FAST Bump & Peltor MT15H69BB-47 Mine are installed on a set of ComTac IIs with the... "clips" that connect to the earcup facing in, and I've had no such problems, however, swapping them around quickly, I could see if you had the clips facing outwards, the end of the adapters could definitely poke you in the cheek. ~Augee |
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Posted: 11/9/2017 5:44:45 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Augee:
Which way do you have the adapters installed? Mine are installed on a set of ComTac IIs with the... "clips" that connect to the earcup facing in, and I've had no such problems, however, swapping them around quickly, I could see if you had the clips facing outwards, the end of the adapters could definitely poke you in the cheek. ~Augee |
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CT, USA
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Posted: 11/10/2017 5:50:30 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By SxPxDx:
The opening of the "clips" are facing in towards my face. I'm wondering if 1) losing weight or 2) getting a new set of Peltors with thicker cups might do the trick. |
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Posted: 11/10/2017 2:07:24 PM EDT
[#20]
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CT, USA
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Posted: 11/18/2017 12:43:36 PM EDT
[#21]
Ditched the Knockoff shroud for a Wilcox L4.
Working on another PASGT custom high cut for my buddy. 
Tomorrow comes the fun part. Cutting 
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Posted: 11/18/2017 1:37:43 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Doc_Hurley:
To please the great one @Augee I covered my power cable. Now you can snake my lid. 
https://www.AR15.Com/media/mediaFiles/243409/IMG_20171110_211931-358667.JPG But your helmet looks better because of it. |
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Posted: 11/18/2017 5:40:11 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 4DoorEKk:
Ditched the Knockoff shroud for a Wilcox L4. http://i65.tinypic.com/2hf0sx5.jpg Working on another PASGT custom high cut for my buddy. http://i63.tinypic.com/5nuj4l.jpg Tomorrow comes the fun part. Cutting |
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CT, USA
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Posted: 11/18/2017 7:58:11 PM EDT
[#24]
Last time I used regular cutting wheels on a die grinder. It was strenuous but I did it. This time I’m going to try a diamond cutter wheel or whatever the hell they’re called.
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Posted: 11/19/2017 6:22:40 AM EDT
[Last Edit: eodinert]
[#25]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 4DoorEKk:
Working on another PASGT custom high cut for my buddy. http://i63.tinypic.com/5nuj4l.jpg Tomorrow comes the fun part. Cutting |
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CT, USA
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Posted: 11/19/2017 1:14:13 PM EDT
[#26]
This was my first one I did. I’ll post pics of the one I’m working on now as I cut it.
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CT, USA
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Posted: 11/19/2017 4:17:14 PM EDT
[#27]
So I took a different approach this time. I drilled a hole pattern all the way around where I wanted to cut. Next I opened the holes to a larger size. And then finished it off with a hacksaw. It was a hell of a lot easier and less messy. Next I will sand the cut to where I want it and clean it up. Then I will re seal the cut with some resin. Lastly I will modify the seal and re apply it. Keep in mind he has all of $120 into this project so far.
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USA
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Posted: 11/19/2017 4:44:21 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By scottr: Were the HHV pads really that bad? I'd love to spring for the zero G pads but I'm vaclempt on the price. |
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USA
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Posted: 11/19/2017 4:47:07 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 4DoorEKk:
So I took a different approach this time. I drilled a hole pattern all the way around where I wanted to cut. Next I opened the holes to a larger size. And then finished it off with a hacksaw. It was a hell of a lot easier and less messy. Next I will sand the cut to where I want it and clean it up. Then I will re seal the cut with some resin. Lastly I will modify the seal and re apply it. Keep in mind he has all of $120 into this project so far. http://i68.tinypic.com/r94u8m.jpg |
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USA
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Posted: 11/19/2017 5:48:08 PM EDT
[#30]
https://imgur.com/a/QdH5A
Set up: Surefire Vampire v1 light, MS2000 IR strobe, Dual PVS-14 gen 3 HP+ green Pinnacle autogated, LIR filter, Wilcox Amber filters, Wilcox L4 G24, IC D14 Bridge mount from Mod Armory, Ops-Core ballistic IIIA helmet, unity tactical adapters, Howard Leights with gel cups. |
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CT, USA
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Posted: 11/19/2017 5:50:27 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FullAutoHound: Out of curiosity do you think the integrity of the helmet is compromised at all being subjected to this? |
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Posted: 11/19/2017 6:51:57 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By p0cketpenguins:
https://imgur.com/a/QdH5A Set up: Surefire Vampire v1 light, MS2000 IR strobe, Dual PVS-14 gen 3 HP+ green Pinnacle autogated, LIR filter, Wilcox Amber filters, Wilcox L4 G24, IC D14 Bridge mount from Mod Armory, Ops-Core ballistic IIIA helmet, unity tactical adapters, Howard Leights with gel cups. |
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CT, USA
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Posted: 11/19/2017 8:02:26 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FullAutoHound: Out of curiosity do you think the integrity of the helmet is compromised at all being subjected to this? 
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PA, USA
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Posted: 11/19/2017 10:50:24 PM EDT
[#34]
Submitting my very first NV setup for your laughs
Ukrainian Arms TOR-D ballistic helmet Nororotos RHNO II, J arm, hand machined adapter for the ATN NVM-14 Gen 3 DLP mounts for my Sordins coming tomorrow, trying to figure out lights, weights, strobes, etc. 
n00b questions if I could? I was constantly changing the distance at which I wanted focus this weekend, do you do the same or is there a go to distance you leave it at and make due with blur elsewhere? I felt like I was being soo picky about having the monocular axially aligned with my eye at all times. The helmet moves, J arms suck, do you just get use to the lens not aligning with your eye perfectly? |
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Posted: 11/19/2017 11:49:30 PM EDT
[#35]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By conservakid:
I was constantly changing the distance at which I wanted focus this weekend, do you do the same or is there a go to distance you leave it at and make due with blur elsewhere? I felt like I was being soo picky about having the monocular axially aligned with my eye at all times. The helmet moves, J arms suck, do you just get use to the lens not aligning with your eye perfectly? Most find that this provides them with the most usable range of vision, however, it will make very close objects blurry. For the most part, this is just something you need to adapt to and get used to, and one of the reasons that being able to do most critical functions by touch rather than sight at night is considered so important. It also requires a certain amount of adaptation to movement, as you need to "memorize" the terrain in front of you before you actually get to it, as it will be blurry by the time you're actually traversing it (you actually do this unconsciously to a certain extent already during the day, so it's not as difficult as it may sound, you just need to re-adapt and re-orient yourself under NODs). If you do need to do close-in detail work, you can temporarily re-focus the device, or you can use an "aperture device." Aperture devices are, at the simplest level, a lens cap for the objective with a small hole (aperture) in the cap. What the smaller hole does is to allow you to focus on both near and far objects at the same time, however, because of the way they function, they can also significantly reduce the amount of light being received by the tube, making the image much darker. Depending on lighting conditions, this may mean that your aperture device is unusable in extreme darkness, or will require some supplementary IR lighting to be useful. Aperture devices can easily be made at home with a Butler Creek lens cap for under $15, or you can buy one of the ready made commercial versions like the Hoplite, which can switch between two aperture sizes, or the Tarsier, which actually has a built in iris that allows you to change the aperture size "on the fly." ~Augee |
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CT, USA
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Posted: 11/20/2017 5:52:27 PM EDT
[#36]
~Augee
Oh great one, do you guys with sentinels or any other dual tube system ever set one objective lens for near and the other for far? I’m new to NODs have had my PVS-14 for about a month now and love it. After getting used to it and using my hoplite Phokus ring it had me wondering about setting one tube for close and one for far with a dual tube (or more) system. |
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Posted: 11/20/2017 6:40:27 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 4DoorEKk:
Where'd you get that patch? 
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Posted: 11/20/2017 6:42:25 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 4DoorEKk:
I've thought about it. Maybe at the very edge but the worst delamination I've had on my helmet or this one was maybe a quarter inch in from where I cut and not the whole cut. A few places here or there. I use resin to reseal the edge. |
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USA
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Posted: 11/20/2017 7:37:20 PM EDT
[Last Edit: FullAutoHound]
[#39]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 4DoorEKk: ~Augee Oh great one, do you guys with sentinels or any other dual tube system ever set one objective lens for near and the other for far? I’m new to NODs have had my PVS-14 for about a month now and love it. After getting used to it and using my hoplite Phokus ring it had me wondering about setting one tube for close and one for far with a dual tube (or more) system. Got the butler creek caps and put a 5.56 sized hole in them. Technically bigger since i used the brass. I set my focus to infinity and when i need to see something up close i just reach up and quickly hold down one of the butler creek caps(don’t fully close it, just hold it down)on my right nod. Don’t even need to do both. You can close the eye that still has the cap fully open to concentrate on the image from the eye you’re holding the cap down for but sometimes you don’t even have to do that. Your brain stitches the clear imagine In well enough to make it out even with the blurry image. At least for me. When you’re done you simply let go and the spring loaded cap flips right back up. Once you get used to it you can do it in a second. I practiced by looking at the digital clock on the coffee maker. |
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CT, USA
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Posted: 11/20/2017 8:15:28 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By Couch-Commando:
I did the same thing to an ACH using a borrowed jig saw. I went through a dozen blades, but it went okay. I immediately sealed it with epoxy. |
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CT, USA
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Posted: 11/20/2017 8:19:53 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By FullAutoHound: Having them set differently sounds like a pain in the ass. Honestly what i do is this: Got the butler creek caps and put a 5.56 sized hole in them. Technically bigger since i used the brass. I set my focus to infinity and when i need to see something up close i just reach up and quickly hold down one of the butler creek caps(don’t fully close it, just hold it down)on my right nod. Don’t even need to do both. You can close the eye that still has the cap fully open to concentrate on the image from the eye you’re holding the cap down for but sometimes you don’t even have to do that. Your brain stitches the clear imagine In well enough to make it out even with the blurry image. At least for me. When you’re done you simply let go and the spring loaded cap flips right back up. Once you get used to it you can do it in a second. I practiced by looking at the digital clock on the coffee maker. |
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Posted: 11/21/2017 12:43:19 AM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 4DoorEKk:
~Augee Oh great one, do you guys with sentinels or any other dual tube system ever set one objective lens for near and the other for far? I’m new to NODs have had my PVS-14 for about a month now and love it. After getting used to it and using my hoplite Phokus ring it had me wondering about setting one tube for close and one for far with a dual tube (or more) system. With NV, a lot of times it ends up having to do with what works for you, though, and what your brain can assimilate. Re: focusing either tube to a different focal length, I will do this sometimes depending on the terrain/situation, but honestly, I do it very rarely. I try to minimize the amount that I change the focus of the device itself as much as possible. What I will do more often is to flip one aperture device down if I'm moving through very thick brush, or significant debris, and/or sometimes when moving within structures. It's a little odd to get used to at first, but I find that it works when I need to be particularly careful about watching my steps/close surroundings. Depending on the ambient light, I may also need some additional IR illumination when doing so, I have an Inforce WML W/IR mounted on one side of my helmet for longer range illumination, while I keep a Princeton Tec MPLS Switch on the other side for short range IR illumination. Still, 90% of the time, I would say, I keep both tubes focused to infinity, and only flip down the aperture device when needed. ~Augee |
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CT, USA
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Posted: 11/21/2017 7:11:56 AM EDT
[#43]
Thanks for the info. I know what u mean about using the focus device you almost need extra illumination with it.. if I’m going up stairs if I look down the built in illuminator will work but I think I’m going to go with a WML IR mounted on the helmet so I don’t need to point my rifle everywhere I want extra illumination. I’m just unsure if it will be too much illumination and wash out the image. U said u use the Princeton tech for close maybe I would be better off going that route.
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KY, USA
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Posted: 11/21/2017 12:39:51 PM EDT
[#44]
I am toying with the idea of a helmet rig to supplement my NightCap (which I love), mostly because the nightcap doesn't have a good way to mount a task light to it, plus I wanna be cool.
What do you guys do for ear pro with bump helmets, besides spending another $300-$500 on Sordins and rail adapters? It looks like Unity Tactical has a rail adapter that should work for my basic Howard Leight Impact Sports. Does anybody just use plugs? I will have a few cans on the way soon so I'm thinking with those at night I could probably get by with plugs alone. |
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CT, USA
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Posted: 11/21/2017 2:54:52 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 4DoorEKk]
[#45]
Of course u can just use plugs but rail mounted muffs are great. Or u can wear a set of muffs under the helmet but it’s obviously not as comfy but guys did it for years before the peltor adaptors came out. You can mount the peltor sports on the arc mounts also. If going that route tho, I would advise going with the 3m arc rails adaptors vs. the unity tactical MARK. Don’t get me wrong unity is a great company with great innovative products. The difference is with the ARC’s you can click them out about a quarter inch to get some extra ventilation and still be able to use your comms (if using comms). Also the overall movement of the ARCs is just generally better than the MARKs IMO. The ARCs click out, rotate smoothly, and click back into stowed position and also are quick removable from the rail. The MARKs use resistance, you pull them out and rotate them fighting the metal clip pressure the whole time. They also bolt into the rails using a clamping device and aren’t quick removable. The MARKs use one center Allen key to keep it together and they tend to loosen up when u rotate them from stowed to over your ears. I bought the Unity tactically MARKs first because I wasn’t aware they didn’t click like the 3m ARCs and I liked the smaller size of them but ended up ordering the ARCs the day they arrived. Also if your going to purchase a bump helmet spend the extra dollar and get an ops core, Team Wendy, or something comparable. Some people are happy with the Airsoft replicas but most of them tend to have incorrectly sized rails and nvg shroud and a crappy Knockoff suspension system. Oh ya don’t buy a Tacprogear bump helmet. They claim to be American made and cost around $150. I thought I was getting not quite an ops core but also not a cheap Chinese Airsoft crap replica and that’s exactly what it was for 5 times the cost. Yea I’m not too happy about that one.
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KY, USA
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Posted: 11/21/2017 3:39:22 PM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 4DoorEKk:
Of course u can just use plugs but rail mounted muffs are great. Or u can wear a set of muffs under the helmet but it’s obviously not as comfy but guys did it for years before the peltor adaptors came out. You can mount the peltor sports on the arc mounts also. If going that route tho, I would advise going with the 3m arc rails adaptors vs. the unity tactical MARK. Don’t get me wrong unity is a great company with great innovative products. The difference is with the ARC’s you can click them out about a quarter inch to get some extra ventilation and still be able to use your comms (if using comms). Also the overall movement of the ARCs is just generally better than the MARKs IMO. The ARCs click out, rotate smoothly, and click back into stowed position and also are quick removable from the rail. The MARKs use resistance, you pull them out and rotate them fighting the metal clip pressure the whole time. They also bolt into the rails using a clamping device and aren’t quick removable. The MARKs use one center Allen key to keep it together and they tend to loosen up when u rotate them from stowed to over your ears. I bought the Unity tactically MARKs first because I wasn’t aware they didn’t click like the 3m ARCs and I liked the smaller size of them but ended up ordering the ARCs the day they arrived. Also if your going to purchase a bump helmet spend the extra dollar and get an ops core, Team Wendy, or something comparable. Some people are happy with the Airsoft replicas but most of them tend to have incorrectly sized rails and nvg shroud and a crappy Knockoff suspension system. Oh ya don’t buy a Tacprogear bump helmet. They claim to be American made and cost around $150. I thought I was getting not quite an ops core but also not a cheap Chinese Airsoft crap replica and that’s exactly what it was for 5 times the cost. Yea I’m not too happy about that one. |
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Posted: 11/21/2017 4:30:15 PM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By 4DoorEKk: ~Augee Oh great one, do you guys with sentinels or any other dual tube system ever set one objective lens for near and the other for far? I’m new to NODs have had my PVS-14 for about a month now and love it. After getting used to it and using my hoplite Phokus ring it had me wondering about setting one tube for close and one for far with a dual tube (or more) system. |
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CT, USA
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Posted: 11/21/2017 11:22:12 PM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryOriginally Posted By westernhaikus1: Thanks for the advice. If I do end up going bump helmet, I'm getting the Team Wendy Exfil. |
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Posted: 11/23/2017 2:21:53 AM EDT
[#49]
I’ve more or less gotten to the point in life and career where even though I have a nice, uber comfy helmet with all the fixin’s, I try to wear a helmet as little as possible (I do prefer the rigid architecture for wearing NVDs to a floppy skullcap when storage space/covertness is not an issue).
What this means is that there are a lot of times I need comms gear or hearing protection when I don’t necessarily need my helmet (or at least to be wearing it), to the point where semi-permanently mounting Peltors to my helmet has become more of an burden than a benefit, and I have returned to simply wearing OTH comms/hearing protection under my helmet, despite having a spare set of Peltors and ARC adapters for them. With the Ops-Core, if I need to wear the helmet for an extended period of time, I can always thread the headband through the fit band in the helmet suspension, but to be honest, I rarely even bother with that. Moreover, if I don’t need comms/electronic hearing augmentation but I need a helmet (e.g., on an admin range with required PPE), I’ll sometimes wear just plugs and forego the headset. ~Augee |
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CO, USA
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Posted: 11/26/2017 5:35:15 PM EDT
[#50]
I've seen a few guys in this thread say that they wish they had gone with the Ops Core Maritime or considering the Maritime. Why are guys wanting to make the switch over to the Maritime over the FAST?
I'm familiar with both helmets, but don't have any first hand experience with either helmet. Thanks |
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