Warning

 

Close

Confirm Action

Are you sure you wish to do this?

Confirm Cancel
Member Login

Log In

A valid email is required.
Password is required.
Site Notices
3/20/2017 5:03:23 PM
Page / 11
Link Posted: 9/24/2006 5:03:26 PM EDT
Another case of indyustry deciding we are second class citzens and I hope there company goes bankkrupt when there military contracts are over. I cannot explain how angry this should make all of us. It's bad enough we have our gonvernment telling us what we can and can't buy without industry doing the same to us. I will not be buying any of there products and urge others to do the same. i will be so tickeld when all of these companies doing this to us will be depending on civilian sells to bail there butts out when the war is over and demand is down, I hope we all remmeber how they treated us right now.
Link Posted: 9/24/2006 11:40:13 PM EDT

Originally Posted By ARCOLLECTOR:
Another case of indyustry deciding we are second class citzens and I hope there company goes bankkrupt when there military contracts are over. I cannot explain how angry this should make all of us. It's bad enough we have our gonvernment telling us what we can and can't buy without industry doing the same to us. I will not be buying any of there products and urge others to do the same. i will be so tickeld when all of these companies doing this to us will be depending on civilian sells to bail there butts out when the war is over and demand is down, I hope we all remmeber how they treated us right now.


+1 On rewarding those who treat us well.
Link Posted: 9/25/2006 1:08:36 PM EDT

Originally Posted By koldt:
img.photobucket.com/albums/v621/Clutch99/Tactical%20Packages/PICT0747.jpg

The only problem with mounting the NV behind and using the Eotech, is the image burn. The Eotech reticule image WILL burn onto your PVS14 (and probably other NV).

Yes, you can probably get rid of the burnt image by the 'turn on your 14 for hours on end' method, but I personally don't want to add hours onto my tube just to get rid of the image. Had to do it once, and won't do it again.


Ok, now I'M confused. You say mounting an EoTech after the 14 will cause burn. Are we talking about the lowest DAY setting, or the actual NV setting???
Link Posted: 10/12/2006 9:25:06 AM EDT
Link Posted: 11/1/2006 6:32:55 PM EDT
Victor you have mail...
Link Posted: 11/1/2006 7:09:27 PM EDT
Link Posted: 11/3/2006 11:08:38 PM EDT
Wow, I am overwhelmed by all the info on this topic. I never imagined there would be so many options for night vision, or some of the high price tags!!! Maybe you guys can give me some help:

I have some coyotes to get rid of. I would love to be able to see them coming at 300yrds at night, but probably will do all the killing under 150yds. I have a DPMS A3 upper. Would a 1st generation scope do the job? I was hoping to spend well under $1000. Midwayusa sells a Yukon Night Vision Rifle Scope 2.5x 50mm for under $500. Are these worth looking into? If not what do you suggest?

Please help. You guys are the pros. I’ve never even look through night vision (unless you count the socom video games!), but always thought it would be wild to do.
Link Posted: 11/4/2006 7:28:24 PM EDT
Generation 1 has lots of limitations. In this case range and resolution being primary concerns. My brother had a Yukon NVMT riflescope kit and the furthest he could go for positive ID and kill probability of the target was 70yds. If I were you i would just save up some more cash for either gen2 or gen3 (preferably). I had gen 1 and gen 2 (still have a gen2 monoc) and for stuff like that, gen 2 would be the least i would go. Gen 1 will either end up in your closet gathering dust or being sold for a loss on your part (like me) and you will end up buying better stuff if you really want to get into it. I also got the chance to play w/ a Yukon NVRS 2.5x42 gen2. That was a pretty nice unit and may get you into the 150yd arena. I have a link for a review to a yukon gen2 if i can find it, it's on my computer at school so maybe i can get it tomorrow night. I wouldn't try gen1 for somethin like that if i were you, effective range is very limited, IMHO.
Link Posted: 11/6/2006 9:01:54 PM EDT
After I read your post, I did more research. Alot of guys on this forum seem to like Night Opitics USA's PVS-14. So I did a seach for that. Way out of my price range!$!$ The boss would never go for that! But I do like their D-300M-2ST. There is all kinds of acessories for it,like a camera adaptor, head gear, Magnifcation lenses, and the thing that really cought my eye : a Day Scope Adaptor. I e-mailed them to see if it would work on my 3-9x Burris, but have not got a reply yet.

Has anyone tried this? I tried to search for it on this site, but no luck. I want to say, this site has helped me out so much, but the seach on this site blows. sorry.

This is where I found the D-300 Day Scope Adaptor:
http://www.nightoptics.com/pc/ADN-D300/NightVisionScopesD-300/Day+Scope+Adaptor+D-300.html
Link Posted: 11/6/2006 10:40:23 PM EDT
Actually i use a dayscope adapter (universal adapter) as my primary setup for night time. I did it mostly w/ a pvs-14 gen 3 and have since sold it. Now i have a mum gen 3 which i wrote a review on literally just two days ago my review
They work great w/ gen 3!! There is however, a great deal of brightness loss (due to light being lost in day optic) even very noticable w/ gen 3, in fact this is what i believe turns many people off of this setup. With gen 2, i fear, the light loss would be almost insurmountable. I HAVE NEVER TRIED THIS AND THIS IS PURELY A HYPOTHESIS. An extremely powerful IR would almost certainly be a necessity but I'm not even sure if that would work well. I would try and have some pictures taken by someone thru the setup if you can, better than spending the money and realizing that you would rather just have a huge spotlight. This is definitely an interesting question that i had wondered before but never thought to ask here. Anyone have any pictures thru a d-300 / Universal Adapter setup? Vic maybe??

As for whether or not the adapter will work on your burris scope... The two that i have owned did not come w/ bushings that would work w/ ocular bells small enough to work w/ a burris short mag that i was able to try out. Fullfield 2's however, do work but there is an annoying little screw head protruding from the ocular bell that takes some work to get around but other than that i did get it to work. Another thing about the fullfield 2 (3-9x40) is the way the damn power ring works (it turns the whole occular european style). This is kind of a pain w/ a UA/NVD because it rotates your NVD along w/ the adapter and anything you have hooked to the adapter (like an IR). Then you have to readjust the eyecup and that got annoying for me, but that fault falls on that particular scope. That was the scope i was going to buy for my ar-15 but am now looking elsewhere.
Link Posted: 11/6/2006 10:44:31 PM EDT
Link Posted: 11/8/2006 6:31:59 PM EDT
So you think I should be able to see 300yds max, and clearly see at 150yds with the scope adjusted no more than 6 power as long as I have a IR illuminator?

Cake: the burris fullfield II 3-9x is a perfect scope for my AR. mine has the ballistic plex, which is right on the money at 100, 200, 300yds without clicking the scope at all. the eyepiece does suck though. I have a burris black diamond 6-24x 50mm ballistic mil-dot on my 300wsm that has the same anoying eyepiece.
Link Posted: 11/22/2006 3:05:21 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 11/22/2006 3:09:33 AM EDT by CCW]
Deleted
Link Posted: 11/23/2006 7:34:37 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/3/2006 6:15:25 PM EDT by steven1513]
I just fondled a PVS-18. It makes the MUM feel like a brick. Never seen them on the street; Are these commercially available?

pvs-18 pdf
Link Posted: 12/2/2006 12:30:51 AM EDT
Does anyone have any first hand experience with a mount for the PVS-14 (or 6015) that will clear an ARMS #40? The mount would have to go directly on the upper receiver with receiver.

Here's a picture of the ARMS mount that won't work with the #40.

Link Posted: 12/2/2006 1:04:37 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/2/2006 1:08:20 AM EDT by Victor]
Link Posted: 12/2/2006 8:04:02 PM EDT
Thanks for the pictures. But those are #40Ls. I was wondering about a #40A2 pictured here.

Link Posted: 12/2/2006 8:12:13 PM EDT
Link Posted: 12/17/2006 12:07:01 AM EDT
I have a question and please forgive my lack of expertise in this subject: I know squat about NV stuff available today.

I'm putting together a rifle similar to the Army SDM-R. Basically it'll be a scoped, 20" (SS barrel 1/8 twist if it matters) with free float rails. I haven't settled for certain on the scope but the throw lever mounts from A.R.M.S. or LaRue seem the way to go.

I want to have the QD capability so I can trade the standard optics for a NV scope of some type. The trouble is I know so little about them: what NV scope lends itself to interchange with a standard scope. If I could get a "throw ring" mount of some tyoe that's a plus....

To make matters tougher I don't want to break the bank! The Gen 1 scopes have attractive prices, but I'm told the quality is pretty iffy. Gen 2 is pretty steep but I might want to try and swing that.....Some of the "high end" stuff is out of the question.



Suggestions?



Link Posted: 2/6/2007 9:42:17 PM EDT
Alright quick question, is the mx10130 C a decent tube?
Link Posted: 3/22/2007 8:40:45 AM EDT
After reading here I have a question. Will all 3 gen of tubes pick up IR light in the 800+ nm wave length? What is a good adverage wave lenght for an illuminator that will work well accross the board? How does UV stack up against IR in terms of illumination?

Thanks
Link Posted: 3/28/2007 2:48:57 PM EDT
Link Posted: 6/29/2007 8:40:49 PM EDT
Anyone have info on the SpectreIR?
Link Posted: 8/24/2007 6:11:26 AM EDT
When looking on ITT tubes data sheets, I saw that the FOM value they are giving, is not equal to S/N*Resolution from the same data sheet. Why?

Ironrat
Link Posted: 9/2/2007 7:51:21 AM EDT
Hello all, I was wondering what is the standard for determining the market value of used Gen 3 NV devices? How much do they depreciate, if at all, per time since purchase or time of use?
Besides what a willing buyer will pay a willing seller, what other standards have become customary and/or reasonable in setting a monetary value on these things?
Say, for instance, I am trying to set a fair price on some GenIII AN/PVS7's made by NIVISYS which were always civilian owned by 3 seperate owners who cared for the system quite well, used it sparingly (less than 140 hours use time), with a tube having no blemishes, but two tiny specks? They sell for $4500 brand new and I acquired them at a substantialy lower price than they were actually worth due to a need to sell on behalf of their previous owner.
If this has been discussed and I missed it somewhere I apologize for the redundancy and would be obliged for a point in the right direction.
Thank you.

Clive
Link Posted: 9/2/2007 11:34:38 AM EDT
There are several factors with regard to selling or buying used NV that you should consider: How old is it, is it still under warranty? Any tube omni V or higher (thin-filmed) is going to be worth more. Does it have a tube data sheet? (is the data sheet from the manufacturer?)Is it commercial grade or Mil-spec? Are there any defects on the image? (what type), NV is sort of like a new car, you loose money the minute you drive it off the lot. A pvs-7 with unknown specs will probably sell for between $1500.00 to $2000.00
Link Posted: 4/23/2008 11:19:42 PM EDT
ITT-6015/PVS-14 assembly



Well all hear it is, I had my NODs apart today so I figured I would give you some insight on building.

Disclamer.... this is for info only, building NODs is easy, but you do it at your own risk.

If you drop or jab a screw driver through a $1000 intensifier tube I cant help you


Ok here we go...

I'm no expert, Pete and others are the Pros and I know just enough to be dangerous.

As far as parts, etc talk to Victor, Pete/IPSC_GUY or Ed Wilcox as they will give you a good deal on parts.

This thread is for poor folks that want to build on their own, as for some of us $3000-3600 is not attainable or justified for walking around behind the house or just looking cool around our neck.

This way you get it piece by piece and eventually you have a set, sorta like AR building.

Keep in mind by building your own, you have no warranty, you break it you fix it

Here is the TM parts diagram




Parts:
1. objective lens, limiter ring and tube housing


2. Batt pack


3. intensifier tube(expensive part)


4. tube retaining ring and light pipe


5. Eyepiece


Assembly...

Well the first is the objective lens.

first of all you take the tube housing and install the limiter ring.

screw it on until it stops, then after removing the retaining ring on the back of the objective lens(pic comming soon), screw the objective lens in.


then screw the objestive lens retaining ring in(on back of OBJ lens)

This is a PITA cause you gotta go through the tube housing to put it on.. pics coming soon

After this you install the intensifier tube.

This is the part you dont want to screw up!!!!! you insert the tube so that the end with the slot and pin hole is toward the front/objective lens.




As you are putting it in you should be looking at the rear(SN marked part of the tube)

And in this pic the light pipe should be at the 7 oclock instead of 10 o'clock, I discovered my mistake earlier tonite.

After this carefully put the tube retaining ring in and screw it tight.

I repeat do not not use a big screwdriver to do this, you punch a hole in that tube and your out $1000+$$$.

get it finger tight if you have small fingers like me, then get a set of needle nose pliers and grind the ends to fit in the slots of the ring and carefully tighten it.



Batt pack install


first thing you need to do is install the ribbon cables, this way you headmount shutoff feature will work

As in the pics, just carefully plug them in.



Then press the batt pack against the tube housing and tighten the screws.



Then all that is left is to screw on the Eyepiece locking ring and then the eyepiece

Be carefull not to strip the threads when screwing in the eyepiece



And when you get them together they hopefully look like this



And then comes purging and nitrogene fill.... I dont do it, that's why we have Pete

Pete let me know if i missed anything, its late and I might have missed something

I hope this helps clear up the mystery in building NODs

Now I want a how to on purging and filling NODs

Ongoing build thread is here

ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=18&t=242215

FREE

Link Posted: 4/23/2008 11:37:45 PM EDT
Link Posted: 9/25/2008 5:24:04 PM EDT
I bet you all have this already, but I found it the other day and thought it might be usefull. Also it shows the nitrogen purging technique.

www.scribd.com/doc/4067033/TM-11585530623P-ANPVS141
Link Posted: 10/9/2008 1:40:00 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 10/9/2008 1:42:59 AM EDT by streetrod]
The post on the build is awesome. I do have one question though, what type of cost savings would one be looking at by building your own. What is the average life of a NV device. Reading through some comments I am under the impression they "wearout" over time or use. Is that correct
Link Posted: 10/12/2008 5:17:10 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/16/2010 8:37:30 PM EDT by FREEFALLE7]


As far as life on a NV device, we have PVS-7 that were made in 94 and PVS-14s here at Ranger school.

The Rangers treat them like they are made of steel, they drop them, go through the swamp were they are submerged under water for periods of 30 mins to 1 hour and they still work.

Its funny cause I treat mine like its made out of fine china

Believe it or not they are tough and will last a lifetime (If you treat them like I treat mine).

They will be obsolete before the tube wears out.

I can see the batt pack going bad after a few (5+)years, but they are somewhat cheap(in the NV world) and can be easily replaced.

FREE


Originally Posted By streetrod:
The post on the build is awesome. I do have one question though, what type of cost savings would one be looking at by building your own. What is the average life of a NV device. Reading through some comments I am under the impression they "wearout" over time or use. Is that correct
Link Posted: 10/12/2008 6:39:55 PM EDT

Originally Posted By FREEFALLE7:
I can see the batt pack going bad after a few (5+)years, but they are somewhat cheap(in the NV world) and can be easily replaced.


Would you recommend owners buy the parts, now, while they are available? Then again, aren't the battery compartments integral to the housing body?
Link Posted: 10/14/2008 4:10:40 PM EDT
no the batt packs are separate.
Link Posted: 10/18/2008 10:39:20 PM EDT

And then comes purging and nitrogene fill.... I dont do it, that's why we have Pete

Pete let me know if i missed anything, its late and I might have missed something

I hope this helps clear up the mystery in building NODs

Now I want a how to on purging and filling NODs

Ongoing build thread is here

ar15.com/forums/topic.html?b=6&f=18&t=242215

FREE



I'm a paying member but the link doesn't work is the build thread gone?
Link Posted: 11/11/2008 7:57:42 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 12/29/2008 3:37:38 PM EDT by FREEFALLE7]
The tread was added here.

Alot of people are afraid to tackle building NVD's.

Its easy to do, but expensive if you don't do it right.

For me its all about the challenge, and saving $$$$.

If I had $3k laying around I would have never tried to build one.

When Pete showed me how to put one together in 10 mins, I knew I could do it

Even if it was the same price I would still build mine, as I can buy it a piece at a time.

FREE
Link Posted: 1/2/2009 4:21:34 AM EDT
Hey guys,
Im looking to start a new project for the new year and I'm looking a building a NVD. Other then picking up parts off of eBay here and there, are there any good online companies that sell the parts. Thanks in advanced.
Link Posted: 1/12/2009 6:16:11 PM EDT
Link Posted: 2/3/2009 6:01:31 PM EDT
I've seen pictures of a PVS-22 mounted in front of the objective lens on a standard scope. I like this concept...however a $11k PVS-22 is out of the question. Is there another NV device that would work similarly?
http://www.deathfromafar.com/images/products/xm-3top.jpg
Link Posted: 2/3/2009 8:12:02 PM EDT
Link Posted: 2/4/2009 10:58:38 AM EDT
Is there a decent Gen I or II device that is mountable in front of the scope similar to the PVS-22 mounting? I'll be shooting coyotes at 50-100 primarily so I don't think I necessarily need GenIII performance.
Link Posted: 2/4/2009 11:01:20 PM EDT
Damn don't tell me that....I will have 8k in the bank this weekend

One would look good on my Barrett 82, if it would survive the recoil



FREE

Originally Posted By TNVC:
Originally Posted By FREEFALLE7:
link to parts

http://www.wolverinetechnologiesllc.com/PVS14parts.html


Current PVS-22's run in the 7-8K range. Hope this helps.

Vic


Link Posted: 2/5/2009 10:51:14 AM EDT
[Last Edit: 2/5/2009 10:52:28 AM EDT by TNVC]
Link Posted: 2/11/2009 1:01:00 AM EDT
Alright I have been looking around here for a few weeks and I like what I see, a bunch of good helpful people so I signed up and here goes my first post.

I have read most of what people have said between the three main NOD setups, PVS-7s, -14s and duel tubes. And can anyone give any up sides of the -7s when compared to -14s? And if so many people like having one eye open as in the -14s how does that compare to duel tubes (you're back to 40 degree FOV right?) I know that the duel tube gives a 3D thing but is there any other up side? I have been looking at getting a pair and most likely will this year but with duel tubes running 4k more I could get a very nice long gun with extras for that.

Thanks for any info and/or help on this.

On the use of ACOGs with NODs, has anyone thought about sending in their ACOG and asking for the tritium to be removed? would you be able to see the crosshairs or whatever you use if they were not lit up. With the fiber optics now in use I don't think that tritium is needed as much as it was before, as long a you have some light the fiber optic will do it's thing right?

If this is a dumb idea, sorry 'bout that!

Oh, and to Victor of TNVC, I just got one of your LED Surefire upgrades a few weeks ago and man does that kick @$$ in my old Z2, thank you man!
Link Posted: 2/11/2009 5:21:34 PM EDT
Originally Posted By hobbes221:
Alright I have been looking around here for a few weeks and I like what I see, a bunch of good helpful people so I signed up and here goes my first post.

I have read most of what people have said between the three main NOD setups, PVS-7s, -14s and duel tubes. And can anyone give any up sides of the -7s when compared to -14s? And if so many people like having one eye open as in the -14s how does that compare to duel tubes (you're back to 40 degree FOV right?) I know that the duel tube gives a 3D thing but is there any other up side? I have been looking at getting a pair and most likely will this year but with duel tubes running 4k more I could get a very nice long gun with extras for that.

Thanks for any info and/or help on this.

On the use of ACOGs with NODs, has anyone thought about sending in their ACOG and asking for the tritium to be removed? would you be able to see the crosshairs or whatever you use if they were not lit up. With the fiber optics now in use I don't think that tritium is needed as much as it was before, as long a you have some light the fiber optic will do it's thing right?

If this is a dumb idea, sorry 'bout that!

Oh, and to Victor of TNVC, I just got one of your LED Surefire upgrades a few weeks ago and man does that kick @$$ in my old Z2, thank you man!



If you could get an old ACOG where the Tritium has dimmed from age it might do what you want.
Link Posted: 3/4/2009 5:56:59 PM EDT
Thanks

Originally Posted By TNVC:
Originally Posted By FREEFALLE7:
Damn don't tell me that....I will have 8k in the bank this weekend

One would look good on my Barrett 82, if it would survive the recoil

http://pic80.picturetrail.com/VOL965/4056977/8434974/332751180.jpg

FREE

Originally Posted By TNVC:
Originally Posted By FREEFALLE7:
link to parts

http://www.wolverinetechnologiesllc.com/PVS14parts.html


Current PVS-22's run in the 7-8K range. Hope this helps.

Vic




OSTI's patented and proprietary shock mitigation system is working quite well with these systems. So much so that the President of ITT took a trip out there to see for himself awhile back!

Vic

Edited, NICE rig BTW!....and Doggy!


Link Posted: 3/23/2009 6:27:07 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 3/24/2009 10:01:51 AM EDT by TNVC]
Selling only allowed in the EE.

NV Moderator
Link Posted: 7/28/2009 12:40:16 PM EDT
Originally Posted By FREEFALLE7:
The tread was added here.

Alot of people are afraid to tackle building NVD's.

Its easy to do, but expensive if you don't do it right.

For me its all about the challenge, and saving $$$$.

If I had $3k laying around I would have never tried to build one.

When Pete showed me how to put one together in 10 mins, I knew I could do it

Even if it was the same price I would still build mine, as I can buy it a piece at a time.

FREE


When you finish, will you have adjustable gain? Will your unit be submersible? Where are you finding $1K tubes. The prices I'm seeing are around $1700-$1800.
Thanks.
Link Posted: 7/28/2009 7:59:39 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 8/2/2009 8:38:17 PM EDT by FREEFALLE7]
I used a MX 10160 tube so no varible gain

I got my tube from a guy that used to be on the board, i think the company he got it from was lamsic or something like that.

Waterproof? creek yes, 60ft I don't want to find out.

If i need NODs for Scuba diving I will call Vic and get a new set.

For me my NODs sit in the safe and get used 4-5 times a year.



Link Posted: 7/28/2009 8:13:27 PM EDT
I'm not sure if I'm up to it yet but I'll keep reading and keep my eye out for a tube.
Thanks.
Link Posted: 8/26/2009 2:32:52 PM EDT
[Last Edit: 1/13/2011 6:55:41 PM EDT by cms81586]
Edit
Page / 11
Top Top