Going to document my Kibler rifle build (Finished!!!!)

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Going to document my Kibler rifle build (Finished!!!!)

Posted: 9/24/2016 10:45:04 AM EDT

Thought some might be interested. Ordered a kit from Jim Kibler (Kiblerslongrifles). He has an awesome Southern Mountain Rifle kit. I hope I can do it justice. It is CNC carved, so yes, I am cheating. I will build one from scratch some day, but I think this will give me a much nicer rifle in much less time than my feeble efforts. I am a new black powder shooter. Have had a nice TVM 58 cal and a Fowling piece for a couple of years, but this is the first attempt at building my own. May take a month, may take 6. Several of the more accomplished builders have done these rifles in a few days, but it won't be me.

Anyway, as the box arrived. A great shipping container. 3/8" plywood top and bottom with a 1X3 (3/4" plywood strips) border. Dividers inside are custom fit to hold the contents.

You can see the stock on the right, the barrel and the rammer on the left. Nice set of instructions. The next picture is the contents of the white box.

Anyway, the journey begins. I am starting by filing and polishing the small parts. Getting my nerve up to start work on fitting the tang and seeing how much fine tuning it needs. Will post all my warts and bobbles as I go, should anyone be interested. Oh yeah, it is a .32 cal with the extra curly maple.

Doc

Posted: 9/24/2016 12:55:00 PM EDT

[#1]

Silly me, I saw Kibler, but read it Khyber.

Not that the Khyber gunsmiths don't do great work. I would trust their work just fine with black powder.

Looks like a fun project. I am keeping an eye on projects like this, as well as others. Retirement is looming.

Strange, I had energy enough for work and projects both 20 years ago. Now, it seems work takes all of my energy.

To be fair, there is a lot more tech involved today than there was 20 years ago, and I still have only a 70s education.

Which makes a black powder project more appealing all the time.

I look forward to your future posts.

Posted: 9/24/2016 6:50:42 PM EDT

[#2]

Looks like a fun project.

Posted: 9/25/2016 10:06:21 AM EDT

[#3]

Saw these kits in person at the CLA last month. Ordered mine a few weeks ago. Mine will be .36. He has a couple of starting vids on youtube that talk of the initial steps. Check out other videos by Duelist1954 too. He has a couple of build videos, not with this kit, but other makes that can help with basic tasks and skills.

And this is a TAG! Good luck!

Posted: 9/25/2016 11:49:29 AM EDT

[#4]

Now this is a thread I'll be paying attention to. When did you order your kit as I've got one on order and hope to see it soon.

Posted: 9/25/2016 11:58:34 AM EDT

[#5]

In on one...

Posted: 9/25/2016 3:52:50 PM EDT

[#6]

Seems like it took about 60 days, but I think he is getting things down and more efficient. I just can't get over how slim and trim this little girl is. Thinking about a 36 in Walnut next

Have been continuing to polish up the small parts, although not getting to carried away. Also watched a few youtube videos and disassembled the lock to clean up the faceplate, cock, pan, etc. Got one of the cheap mainspring vices from Track of the Wolf, and it works fine. The lock is pretty strsight forward but do invest in gunsmith screw driver set. Some of the screw slots are very thin and easy to bugger. Also this is such a small, elegant little lock, but the fly is tiny. Don't lose that. If you drop it, you lose it

Will start taking a few pictures today. Going to start fitting the tang tonight and maybe draw filling. Also going to order some of Jims patina solution to finish the metal with.

Doc

Posted: 9/25/2016 5:31:52 PM EDT

[#7]

Chambers locks are the best. I got this set at Amazon for 45 bucks during a "lightning Deal"

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001C63M7O/ref=od_aui_detailpages00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Posted: 9/25/2016 11:39:02 PM EDT

[#8]

Spent about 2 1/2 hrs draw filing my barrel tonight while watching my Cowboys play da Bears. Did all eight flats. I know, you only have to do the top 5, but since this is my first barrel, I figured I would practice on the bottom three and get the hang of it. I am fairly pleased with it. I bought a cheap file set at Northern Tools with the little card file included. Did a decent job. Now I have a sore set of digits!!

My humble little back room work bench in the man cave;

I quit for tonight. Figure I have 5 hrs in it so far.

Doc

Posted: 9/26/2016 12:51:24 PM EDT

[#9]

Hell yeah. Nice thread. Good luck.
BTW can you show a picture of the back of the lock? I am interested in how the mainspring sits.

Posted: 9/26/2016 3:04:18 PM EDT

[#10]

Yes sir, will get it up soon. I have heard nothing but good about Chambers locks, This is one of his Ketland style small lock and it seems really solid. Nice quick action. Feels sturdy. I THINK it is double bridled, frizzen and internal bridle, but you that know more than me will have to help me when I post a picture of it. I know when it is all put back together it is a solid feeling little lock.

Here is a picture of the back;

And closeup of the front

Doc

Posted: 9/30/2016 11:42:54 AM EDT

[#11]

Well, disgusted now.....put the butt plate on......crooked!! May post a pic, may not....

Going to plug holes and start over

Doc

Posted: 9/30/2016 12:36:37 PM EDT

[#12]

So - this may be a stupid question - I'm looking at the lock plate in the photos & I'm wondering - How do you go about attaching the lock plate to the rifle? I mean - Are you required to drill & tap additional holes into the lock plate or something??

Posted: 10/1/2016 1:04:26 PM EDT

[#13]

You have to use draw files on the barrel? What amount of work is needed there? Is it rough? Changing the contour? Or just really needing fine finishing and polishing?

I built a T/C Hawken flintlock kit while in college, but it didn't have that kind of work to do (the barrel was fully finished). Not nearly as involved as this appears. I want to build a Baker rifle from TOTW.

Rob

Posted: 10/1/2016 4:10:23 PM EDT

[#14]

Quote History

Quoted:
You have to use draw files on the barrel? What amount of work is needed there? Is it rough? Changing the contour? Or just really needing fine finishing and polishing?

I built a T/C Hawken flintlock kit while in college, but it didn't have that kind of work to do (the barrel was fully finished). Not nearly as involved as this appears. I want to build a Baker rifle from TOTW.

Rob

View Quote

I'm wondering too. Maybe if you wouldn't mind not only showing what you do, but telling why. This thread is awesome so far and motivating me, aproject like this has been on my list. Thanks!

Posted: 10/3/2016 3:58:33 PM EDT

[#15]

Yes sir on the drill & tap the lock plate and the trigger plate. Will post as it comes along.

Doc

Posted: 10/4/2016 7:59:08 PM EDT

[#16]

Quote History

Quoted:
So - this may be a stupid question - I'm looking at the lock plate in the photos & I'm wondering - How do you go about attaching the lock plate to the rifle? I mean - Are you required to drill & tap additional holes into the lock plate or something??

View Quote

Yes. one will go thru the bolster (the thick area on the top of the lock. Another will go in the forward area near the tip of the Main Spring.

Posted: 10/4/2016 9:38:55 PM EDT

[#17]

tag!!!!!

Posted: 11/8/2016 8:15:15 PM EDT

[#18]

Any updates? My Kibler Southern Mountain Rifle kit is suppose to be here tomorrow.. Ordered it in July and can't wait to get my hands on it..

Posted: 11/10/2016 9:32:24 AM EDT

[#19]

subscribed. naturally i can't get the website to pull up, so i guess i'll just have to live vicariously thru the photos here.

Posted: 11/12/2016 3:16:20 PM EDT

[#20]

Unfortunately, I have had two of my employees give me two week notice after being gone for CE for a week, so may be a while before much more gets done. WI'll post when it happens though! ! Sorry

Doc

Posted: 11/12/2016 7:55:28 PM EDT

[#21]

Hello Doc

Very interested in your project. I've been wanting to get into muzzle loading for sometime. Have some questions on this kit.

How much work needs to be done on the stock? Is it completely inletted?

How much metal work is needed?

What is your plan for finishing the metal? Browning?

Thanks

Posted: 11/12/2016 11:31:01 PM EDT

[#22]

bbace,

I am polishing the metal, final sanding on the stock. All of my in letting has been spot on. I am filling just a hint of a draw on the edges, but I really think you could just pull it up with the screws. I did draw file the barrel. The wood just needs final sanding and finish applied. My plan is to use Jim's graying solution on the metal and probably iron nitrate to the wood since I got the extra fancy maple.

You can do it. There are a couple of holes that have to be drilled and tapped. But that is about it if you want to do the kit as supplied.

Doc

Posted: 11/13/2016 5:34:24 PM EDT

[#23]

My rifle arrived on the 9th.. So far the only thing I've done is make sure all the parts were in the box and they were. The stock is pretty delicate looking and I'm almost afraid to touch it. Should be fun to build..

Posted: 11/13/2016 9:04:11 PM EDT

[#24]

Excellent! Going to enjoy this thread. Jim Kibler's kits are great, I think they're going to change the game a little. Albeit slowly

Posted: 11/30/2016 11:21:00 PM EDT

[#25]

Going to get going again. No pictures for tonight, but put final cleaning up on barrel with fine grit sand paper. Next I need to plug the holes for the butt plate and redrill them.

Doc

Posted: 12/13/2016 12:25:42 AM EDT

[#26]

OK, finally got back to the gun. Hopefully a bit each night. Nothing major but plugged the holes from the off center butplate. (Redneck fix)

Tomorrow will cut off and sand and hopefully make another attempt.

Doc

Posted: 12/14/2016 9:42:12 PM EDT

[#27]

Besides looking at the parts I haven't done anything to my Kibler Southern Mountain Rifle kit yet. Too busy at work and when I get home I'm tired and better off not fooling with it. Once Christmas is over and we're back to normal at work I'll get going on it.. I hope..

Posted: 12/16/2016 9:58:22 PM EDT

[#28]

OK, cut the pegs, sanded down and redrilled the holes. Reapplied the butplate. Pleased with the way it looks. Will have some finish sanding to get it finally fit, but not much.

Next up, fitting the trigger plate. Took very minimal fitting, just ever so slightly clean up the edges of the trigger plate and filed about a 3 degree draft on the front of the plate to get it to sit snugly in the dado.

Next up is to drill and tap the trigger plate. Once it was fitted and snug I used a drill to spot the plaate from the inside.

And the inside of the trigger plate after spotting;

Now I have to go purchase a #29 bit and an appropriate tap, so that will end my work for tonight.

Doc

Posted: 12/17/2016 7:22:04 AM EDT

[#29]

Looks good...

Posted: 12/18/2016 1:04:05 AM EDT

[#30]

OK, will pick up from where I left off. BUT, thought I would start off with an apology for my messy work bench in the man cave and my poor photography. I am not a great photographer and a bit of a mess in my personal area, so just chalk it up to me.

Anyway, ran by Ace hardware, picked up a #29 drill bit, an 8-32 tap, and a tap handle. Then drilled two holes where marked;

Then tapped said holes;

Upon attempting installation, I found that I had missed the rear screw hole (DOH!!!! I hate it when I do that). The front fit perfectly. The rear hole was about a mm off. SO, I used the drill bit to walk the hole far enough to get it to fit. From the bottom; You can see that the rear hole is ever so slightly off center!

And from the top. Really pleased in how it is coming together;

Cont'd........

Posted: 12/18/2016 1:22:27 AM EDT

[#31]

OK, next was to install the barrel tenons. I used a triple sided file that I had run over a sharpening stone to remove the teeth and make a safe side out of, to file out the dovetail notches until the tenon fit, then tapped them in. The flats of the tenons were wider than the flats of the barrel, so I put electrical tape on the barrel and then filed it to match the barrel;

There were 4 tenons on the barrel and this probably took an hour while I watched "The 300" in the background

!

Then reinstalled the barrel, put a clamp on, and used a 1/16" drill bit to drill through the tenons. The holes for the pins were already in the stock, so I just had to use the hole as a guide for my had drill. Had to be careful, but worked out just fine;

The next step (which are provided in Jim's very good instruction sheets) is to install the lock plate screw. First, I installed the lock plate, making sure it is flush with the barrel, then clamped it into place and used a drill bit the same size as the hole for the lock plate screw to mark the position for the hole to be drilled and tapped. Then time to disassemble the lock;

Notice the tiny dot on the opposite side of the metal strip from the frizzen. Up close;

Cont'd.........

Posted: 12/18/2016 1:36:21 AM EDT

[#32]

I did not to this with the hand drill. Ran to the shop and chucked the #29 bit into my little sears drill press and drilled a nice straight hole, then came back to the house and tapped the hole;

Finished product from the pan side;

Lock plate installed. You can see the end of the screw behind the base of the hammer.

Here is a view of the other side. Also, I have clamped the trigger guard in place so I can drill out the holes in the tenons on the trigger guard, front and rear.

Screws holding the but plate on were next to be attended to. This is how they start life.

I chucked them into my drill and ran then on a belt sander, and this is how they looked in the end;

Well, it is about midnight, so will do some more posting in a day or so.

Doc

Posted: 12/23/2016 12:32:08 AM EDT

[#33]

OK, a couple more evenings of working. Didn't get as many pictures as I would have liked, but you will get the idea

.

The white lightning touch hole liner had to be installed. The hole was already drilled and tapped so it was just a matter of screwing it in with a pair of vice grips and cutting it off ( dremel with a cut-off wheel). Then file it flush. I also opened it up to 1/16".

Then I decided to do some wood working for a while. I sanded the stock even with the butt plate. Then started with 220 grit paper.

Then did 320, then 420. Next up was to whisker the stock. I took a wet sponge and wet the stock, used my heat gun do try it, then sanded with 420 grit. I did this three times; Here the stock is wet. Starting to see the grain.

Using heat gun to dry wood;

Cont'd.......

Posted: 12/23/2016 12:45:32 AM EDT

[#34]

Next up is my first attempt at Aqua Fortis. You apply it in a thin even coat, and then heat it with the heat gun. Here is one issue that I hadn't forseen. I am red/green colorblind, and the color progression when heated is from wet look, to green, to orange to red. SO, I had to be sure to apply enough heat to make sure that I got all the green out of it. I had to ask my wife but don't worry, she didn't mind setting me straight!!

Here you can see some of the color progression. The top is the light orange, and you can see the green in the middle.

And finally the finished product of the Aqua Fortis;

I am still trying to figure out if I want to put another coat of AF on it, but when it is wet, it darkens somewhat. I do tend to prefer a bit lighter color, as most of my long arms are for hunting, and when the squirrels aren't around, I like to look at the wood.

For now that is about it. I am keeping this first one simple. I am thinking about trying some inlay and maybe simple carving in the next one, but am keeping this one kinda poor boy "ish".

Doc

Posted: 12/27/2016 10:43:26 PM EDT

[#35]

OK, spent the evening on a couple of things. Applying 3 coats of wipe on poly to the wood, and the Kibler patina to the metal. I have a few more days of poly to apply and then to assemble the rifle. I will have some more photos up when I do final assembly. HOPEFULLY she will turn out as I think.

Fingers crossed!!

Doc

Posted: 12/28/2016 11:13:02 AM EDT

[#36]

Thanks for keeping us in the loop on this!!! Can't wait to see how she shoots!!!

Posted: 12/31/2016 10:52:51 PM EDT

[#37]

Ok guys, for what it's worth, I offer up my humble finished kit build. I finished the wood with aqua fortis, five coats of wipe on poly, and paste wax. I finished the metal with Jim's patina solution. That is a bit blotchy in places but I am sure that is my fault due to surface prep. Going to just let it age on out. Also put paste wax on the metal. I highly recommend his kit for someone who doesn't want to tackle a full build, but wants to get a small idea of what it is like. I know it's a rookie build, but critiques welcome. .....

Posted: 12/31/2016 11:06:49 PM EDT

[#38]

I took her out to shoot. Was a miserable dreary day of 46 degrees rain. I did not sight it in, just shot at a tin can at about 20 yds. Used about 25gr of Goex 3f and a .311 ball with pillow ticking and half beeswax/half mineral oil for lube. Was hitting can just fine. Didn't swab between shots, and #8 loaded as easily as #1. I really like the fact that not much lead or powder is used and you can still have fun shooting. Going to be fun getting to know this little girl.

Now just need a name.

Thanks, and hope this inspires someone to try It for themselves.

Shoot me any questions if you have them, or feel free to critique.

Doc

Posted: 12/31/2016 11:21:44 PM EDT

[#39]

Wow, beautiful project. Looks like you are a seasoned pro rather than a first timer. Your wonderful thread did nothing to deter me from wanting to pull the trigger and attempt a project like that myself.

Posted: 1/1/2017 12:57:00 PM EDT

[#40]

Very nice!

Posted: 1/1/2017 1:11:41 PM EDT

[#41]

Gorgeous build , way beyond my meager skillset

Posted: 1/1/2017 3:06:12 PM EDT

[#42]

Looks good. I've gotten the barrel on mine draw filed and have slowly been fitting it into the stock. I had to slightly sand the barrel channel because it was very tight on the barrel but I think I'm almost there. It was so tight I was afraid I was going to crack/break the forend trying to get the barrel out of it.

I'm not sure what I'm going to use to finish the metal or wood yet. I'll probably use Kiblers solution and antique the metal but I might stain the stock. Time will tell...

Posted: 1/2/2017 12:07:48 PM EDT

[#43]

KB,

What are the particulars on yours? Maple, walnut? What cal?

Always interested!!

Doc

Posted: 1/2/2017 12:11:50 PM EDT

[#44]

OP ruined my fun. I opened this thread to make fun of a guy who couldn't spell "Khyber."

Nice work on the rifle though.

Posted: 1/2/2017 12:44:44 PM EDT

[#45]

Quote History

Quoted:
KB,

What are the particulars on yours? Maple, walnut? What cal?

Always interested!!

Doc

View Quote

It's .45 caliber, extra fancy maple stock..

Posted: 2/22/2017 10:16:19 PM EDT

[#46]

Finally back to this thread. Awesome work!

Posted: 2/23/2017 10:44:12 AM EDT

[#47]

Nice build. Dont worry about the blotchy metal, makes it look better IMHO

Posted: 2/24/2017 10:10:26 PM EDT

[#48]

Abigail. Her name should be Abigail, Abby for short.

Posted: 2/28/2017 5:48:49 PM EDT

[#49]

Quote History

Quoted:
Abigail. Her name should be Abigail, Abby for short.

View Quote

Thanks, I like that!

Doc

Posted: 2/28/2017 7:23:13 PM EDT

[#50]

Beautiful rifle, good job!

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Going to document my Kibler rifle build (Finished!!!!)

Armory » Black Powder / Muzzle Loaders

Warning

Confirm Action

About AR15.COM

Stay Connected

Newsletter

Contact Us