Just not sure at all what I want.

I like the looks of this...

Traditions 1851


**edited to be more specific to revolvers

I don't see a real point in an inline unless you hunt. it's like a bolt action slug gun, it's the closest thing you'll get to a center fire rifle to hunt in a particular season. that's really the only reason for it's existence. (feel free to correct me if I'm wrong, but I'm not sure why else they would exist)

as far as the revolver I'd avoid that particular gun and get something with a steel frame.
I don't know anything about traditions wheel guns, but I can vouch for pietta and uberti
cabelas regularly has steel frame pietta cap & ball guns under $250
keep an eye out for sales with them.

get a colt 1860 clone

cap&ball revolver

I've never understood the draw towards modern BP weapons.  I guess if you're trying to extend your hunting season and bag a few more deer, but still.  Old BP guns are awesome.  Long rifle flintlocks and cap and ball revolvers are my personal favorite.  The traditions you posted has been on my wishlist for some time now.  If you're a project guy, buying and building one of the Tradition's kits could be really cool.

The revolvers are def peaking my interest, can someone link me to info that breaks down the different models available? For a newb, they all look the same....

If you go to Traditions' website they've got a good variety of quality PB revolvers.  From what I understand, the big differences between the Navy, army and other models are pretty similar in design and function.  More depends on which style or engraving pattern you like best.  just my $.02

Thanks!

Diggin the looks of the steel 1851

i like it    


get the 44 cal

Is that the model with the engraving of a naval battle on the cylinder?  I really liked that one.

Colt's 3rd Dragoon is the answer you seek young padawhan.

Definitely get a steel frame.  If you have any respect for an accurate replica, don't buy a .44 1851.

IMO, the Uberti 1851 "London" model is one of the best out there.  Steel frame and trigger guard/back strap.  Smooth it up and put some light springs in it.  Very nice .36 cal goodness.  Go to youtube and look up "Duelist1954".  Then start watching.

Traditions pistols are made by Pietta.

The 1851 Colt is very nicely balanced and handles well.   It was originally chambered in .36 caliber but modern reproductions are found in both .36 and .44 caliber, and with modern steels the larger .44 caliber isn't an issue.

The 1860 Colt has great lines, but doesn't balance as well as the 1851.  The 1860 was designed for use with napoleonic tactics and the hammer notch rear sight and blade front sight are regulated for an 80-100 yd zero with the standard load of the time, which was actually a conical bullet rather than a ball.   They'll shoot about 16" high at 25 yards, which can be an issue for target and plinking purposes.

The 1858 Remington is arguably the best choice for a shooter, and with a top strap it's also one of the stronger designs.   It's available with traditional fixed sights, as well as in non traditional adjustable sight versions, and it's available in both blued and stainless steel versions.

The 1858 and 1860 are sold in .44 caliber, and as noted above the .1852 can be found in .44 caliber as well.  It's worth noting however that ".44 caliber" varies a bit.   You'll find revolvers that require .451" diameter balls, others that require .452" balls and some that need a .454" ball.

The Ruger Old Army is similar in overall appearance to an adjustable sighted 1858 Remington, but it is slightly larger and is based the Black hawk frame.   It shoots a .457" ball or conical projectile. They also came in both lied and stainless steel versions, but they've become fairly expensive due to their continued popularity and limited availability.

The 1847 Walker Colt was the first of the horse pistols and they were larger pistols holding up to 60 grains of powder behind a .457" ball or conical projectile.  They weigh around 4 pounds and they were intended to be carried in pommel holsters on the cavalryman's saddle.    




The Walker Colts were followed by the first, second and third model dragoons.   They differ in minor details but in essence they have a shorter cylinder and shorter barrel than the Walker, and use a detent on the end of the lever to retain the lever in the up position rather than just a spring.


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You'll find a great deal of variation in quality and some of the reproductions out there have soft nipples and fire control parts and don't hold up well in regular use.   In that regard I recommend you stick with importers who have a good reputation for quality and pay a bot more up front for better quality and durability if you plan to shoot it much.

The Walker Colt pictured above is one of the Colt Signature series revolvers that were made in the 1980s.  They are some of the nicest black powder reproductions available but they now sell for upwards of $800 in excellent condition.   While they were sold as Colts and don't have import stamps the parts were made by Uberti, imported into the US and then assembled by Iver Johnson for Colt to avoid an import stamp.   They are an example of how nicely made an Italian reproduction can be made when the importer orders them with high quality fit and finish specifications.  

Armi Sport/Chiappa and Uberti ar both capable of making superb cap and ball revolvers, however as noted above the actual quality depends on what the importer is willing to pay for.

Awesome info, thanks!

The Colt Walker is a giant monster

If you have patience and can wait, a lot of times around Thanksgiving or Christmas Cabela's has a super sale on their black powder revolvers. The last couple of years I have added a 1851 Navy steel frame 36 caliber and a 1858 Remington 36 caliber to my arsenal for less than $200 each. They are beautifully finished firearms and seem to be of high quality both were made by Pietta. Uberti is fine also they just seem to cost a little more but Pietta has really upped it's quality in the past few years to the level of Uberti in my opinion.

I am in no hurry

I don't know where in MI you live but if you are close, head over to the Cabela's in Saginaw or anyone that is near you.  The generally have a bunch of them in stock.  It is a great way to handle them and see what you like.

I picked up my 5.5" 1858 Remington for $175 plus tax 2 Christmases ago.

While the models differ the ballistics are basically this:

.31 caliber ~ equal to .22lr

.36 caliber ~ equal to .380 - light .38 Special.

.44 caliber in a Remmie 1858, Ruger Old Army, or Colt 1860 ~ equal to .44 Russian or Special.

.44 caliber in a Walker/Dragoon ~ equal to .45LC +P.
A fully loaded Walker is rocking up there close to .357mag power wise. They ain't no slouch.

For general plinking and range toy use the .36 Navy is hard to beat. The gun balances and points well. Shoots easy. Is economical to run. They were popular back in the day for good reason.

The Walker or Dragoons are capable of hunting use. I wouldn't recommend any of the lighter guns for hunting.  
If ya just had to, they'll work for SD purposes and will punch a large hole right thru a goblin.

The pocket model .31's are pretty much useless for serious use but are a lot of fun to shoot.

Make no mistake. Any one of them will kill you dead.

Uberti > Pietta

Steel frame > brass frame. Fact is don't even bother with brass frame. Go steel and never look back.

I shoot all of the above.
For actual field use the 3rd Dragoon or Ruger Old Army is bestest IMO.

I have a Armsport Remington New American Army, Brass .44 cal I bought sometime in the late 80's. It's been hiding in the back of the safe since we moved back to Montana - in 1992.  

I'm going to have to dig it out now and go shoot the thing.

Anyone know if almost 30 year old pyrodex is safe?  I think I have close to a lb of the stuff.

Should be good to go. It'll probably be clodded up so break it up. Test fire a small amount out on the sidewalk. Iff'n it goes POOF! you're golden.

Then you should go choke yourself for befouling your BP firearm with such heathen powder. Only the Holy Black is acceptable.

I know - but I lived in Los Angeles when I bought the thing. I don't recall but I think BP was not readily available, Pyrodex was all the rage.  I'll have to go find some BP I 'spose.

http://www.powderinc.com/blackpowder.html

I am a BP newb myself. Go to cabela's websight or taylors&company websight. And pick the one you want.


I went with this: 240buck for gun/spare cylinder







Disclaimer, I have not shot it yet, literally had it only a week. I'm still asking around here and doing reading/research.

 

Just go for it, start with a 357 magnum hull full of 3F or 4F black powder and a 454 diameter round ball. Then work your way up to a full 44 mag case full of powder seal the chambers with any type of grease bore butter or Crisco shortening. They are a blast, when you are finished make sure you scrub it all down with hot soapy water and get in all the nooks and crannies to get out all of the fouling then oil liberally before putting it away.

How well do these work with BP substitute like Pyrodex RS?

I cant speak for velocity but it works fine. Thats all I currently have on hand.

I dont use lube while shooting and cleanup is a breeze with hot water and bore butter

Pressure tends to be slightly higher than with black powder, but not enough to cause any issues.

I've found the fouling from Pyrodex to be slightly harder as well as even more hygroscopic than black powder, resulting in flash rust occurring even faster than with black powder in humid conditions.

The major issue I've encountered with BP substitutes is higher ignition temperature.  That may require a hotter cap, and in some cases substitutes won't work at all.   For example, I have a 1859 Sharps infantry rifle.  It uses nitrated paper cartridges and has a rather long ignition path with the flame from the cap having to travel down to the middle of the block, then make a 90 degree turn to the center  of the block, where it has to make another 90 degree turn to reach the powder.  It's nearly 100% reliable with black powder, but reliability is around 10% with Pyrodex.

Is one of the BP substitutes better than the others?

I definately noticed the flash rust while cleaning  last night. I dropped both my 1858 cylinders and nipples into hot soapy water to soak. When I scrubbed and rinsed I placed them on my cleaning pad to dry and there was a thin film of rust on some of the surfaces in 5min. (The time it took me to clean the frame/barrel. I think for a non detailed cleaning I'm going to have to do one cylinder/nipple set at a time and dry/ oil immediately after cleaning that part. The rust wiped off with a patch and I quickly oiled everything down.