I inherited my great-grandfather's muzzleloader pistol. He had the reputation for being a great gunsmith, reloader, and shooter. Unfortunately he died before I was old enough to know him. I was given this pistol by my grandmother, it hung on her wall for years. It has no markings on it whatsoever. I was told that he "made" it, I assume from a kit but I wouldn't know. I know for a fact he made rifles from scratch. I would like to shoot it if I can determine it is 100% safe. It's in good condition, the picture makes it looks rustier than it actually is and the rifling seems to be cut rough but in decent condition. I believe it is a 45 caliber, the biggest dimension I measured with my calipers across the grooves is .456". What size round balls should I try? What would be a safe load?

Unless he was a blacksmith he didn't make it from 'scratch' but rather put it together from a kit and finished the wood and metal surfaces.  A 45 would use a 0.440 ball with a cloth patch.  Try 30-40 grains of black powder.  NEVER use smokeless powder.

If he truly did actually make the metal parts himself it could have quite some collectors value but that is very unlikely.

I'm going to guess he used comercial metal parts and made the wood stock from scratch.

I agree.  That's awful nice wood for a "kit".  You might pull the lock and look inside to see if there are some markings.  Also look under the barrel.  Nice heirloom.

I took off the barrel. No markings on it or under it. I'm a little nervous to remove the lock, I would hate to not be able to gun it back together....

Here's a few more pics:









ETA, you're right, "from scratch" in my op is not the right wording. But grandfather worked in a tube mill and said my great grandfather would purchase materials there that he used to fabricate barrels. Well that's how the stories go anyway. My grandmother also has a smoothbore rifle in her possession that he "made".

Looks like an old CVA Kentucky Pistol kit.

Turn it for a $100 gift card at the next "buy-back."

I got $100 for a busted (WECSOG'd to death)  Jennings .22 that way.

Except its not.

That's no kit.  Built up from components, maybe.  But you CAN build from raw materials.  With a .456 bore, I'd try either a .440 round ball with a .015 patch, or a .445 round ball with a .010 patch.  Try 20 grains of 3F powder, but you'll have to work it up...15-30 grains in 2.5 grain increments to establish the best group.

I wish I could appreciate how nice this pistol is and the story behind it, however after working in a gun store I can't.  This is due to the fact that everyone who finds one of these after grandpa dies is just convinced they found a relic.  

After dealing with a number of nobs who thought they stuck gold and didn't want to hear it was a kit gun from the 60's or 70's, I finally came up with a schtick for these kinds of guns.  When some eager descendant would enter the store with said pistol to try and sell it wrapped in their finest dish rag, I would say with the fakest enthusiasm as possible, "Oh, thats a CVA, 70's vintage!" then this sucker would come back with, "So whats it worth?"  You know this guy already had the money spent in his head.  I'd answer with, "$50 to $100."  Then they would always come back with, "But, but, but you said 70's vintage, it's gotta be worth a mint, my Dad said it's been around for years!"  To which I'd counter with, "Yes, 1970's vintage, it's a kit gun and dear old Dad told you a whopper, and no thanks I'm not interested."  I knew I wasn't making friends or influencing anyone but it was sure fun to screw with people.  

In the time I jockeyed the gun counter I only had one actual antique muzzle loader ever come through the store and while it was way to rich for our blood, we pointed that nice old lady to a well known auction house and she made quite a bit of money off her gun.  Those kind of people made up for the retards who seemed to flock to our shop.

FIFY.
Not to knock GP but he was no gunbuilder.
The lines around the lock plate are just awful, the square bottom and sides of the stock are just as awful. It would be miserable to shoot.
First time I have seen a barrel held to a forend in such a fashion and the hole is not even centered on the flat.
No way I would attempt to shoot it, too many questionable things seen.
Hang it in a shadow box on a wall and hold fond memories of Grandpa.

I noticed the same things but I was trying to be nice since it was grandpa's.

 
I never once asked what it was worth. I have no intention of selling it. I am pretty sure it's just something he slapped together with whatever parts he could get his hands on as a hobby. Almost certainly post WW2, probably much late than that after he retired.






I just wondered if it was from a kit he put together off the shelf or if he actually put some custom work into it. It looks like he did as evidenced by the imperfections, which makes it more special to me.



 

I'll get back you you with a range report after I put some rounds downrange with it.

Don't panic about taking the lock plate off.  It is a good idea to do once a year or so to clean the inner workings.  I just back out the screws a bit and tap on them with a nylon hammer.  The lock plate will come out and you can clean, lube, and inspect the inside.  You can handle it.

Doc

Concur.  The lines are not right for something that was made by a gunsmith from decades ago.  Look at the wood around the lockplate and how uneven it is.  It's generally carved, filed, cut more symmetrical.  

ETA: Also look at how blocky the area ahead of the lock is.  It should have been more rounded off.

Even the CVA is rounded: