As I recall the barrels were steel and fairly thick, at least as thick as the cylinder and barrel on a .44 caliber pistol like the .44 cal version of the Colt 1851 Navy. In that regard, you could potentially treat it like a small caliber pistol or rifle, but only if it has proof marks indicating it would take similar pressures.
In a properly proofed black powder firearm, a safe starting load for a muzzle loading rifle is a charge in grains (measured by volume) equal to the caliber, so theoretically 44 grains would be ok for your .440 caliber cannon. However, I have no idea whether the cannon has any proof marks, so in absence of that, I'd cut the charge in half and consider that the max - about 15-20 grains would be a good range for charges. You could probably go heavier, but in a short cannon barrel, there is not much point as you won't get any more velocity, just more recoil from the heaver weight of the charge being expelled from the barrel.
I'd stay with black powder if you can find it, as a) it tends to generate less pressure than a similar charge (measured by volume, not weight) of black powder, b) pyrtodex has a higher ignition temperature, so it's more prone to a failure to fire with cannon fuse, and c) it has much harder fouling than black powder.
In general FFFg is used on small caliber rifles and pistols (.45 caliber or less), so you could use FFFg, but I'd also use FFg.
The important thing is to ensure there is no airspace between the powder and the ball, as that causes a pressure spike and can put a bulge/ring in the barrel.
Given that the canon is small, it can be very difficult to get a tightly patched ball seated, so use a fairly thin patch, or just seat the ball without a patch and use a wad of paper rammed on top to hold the ball against the powder, so it won't roll forward before it fires (like you would with a smooth bore).