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Posted: 4/24/2014 9:45:25 PM EDT
[#1]
Clean with hot soapy water. Rinse with hot boiling water. Apply your favorite gun oil. Sperm oil is period correct, but hard to find these days, unless you have friends at Greenpeace.
This was the traditional method back in the day. Nowadays, we can substitute Dawn dishwashing liquid for the soap. It is a detergent, but serves the same purpose. Hot water is still hot water. Lots of different oils out there. So much so that snake oil salesmen make a good living. |
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Posted: 4/24/2014 10:06:09 PM EDT
[#2]
I plan to get some Dixie Gun Works Black Solve and try it.
I usually clean again a day or 2 after a shooting and cleaning session. There are always signs of rust, no matter how well I cleaned with hot water and soap previously. |
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Posted: 4/25/2014 12:46:50 AM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Clean with hot soapy water. Rinse with hot boiling water. Apply your favorite gun oil. Sperm oil is period correct, but hard to find these days, unless you have friends at Greenpeace. This was the traditional method back in the day. Nowadays, we can substitute Dawn dishwashing liquid for the soap. It is a detergent, but serves the same purpose. Hot water is still hot water. Lots of different oils out there. So much so that snake oil salesmen make a good living. I do the above and use bore butter as a bore preservative. I dont have issues with barrels that I can clean breech too muzzle ie revolvers and the trapdoor just the muzzle loaders. |
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Posted: 4/27/2014 10:42:34 AM EDT
[#4]
Hot water and after drying, a patch with eezox. I've tried everything over the years, and Eezox just works better than anything else for rust prevention.
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Posted: 4/27/2014 1:47:29 PM EDT
[#5]
Spray some Ballistol down the bore.....
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Posted: 4/27/2014 3:59:13 PM EDT
[#6]
I'll try some Ballistol. I have been wanting to see how awsome everyone says it is first hand.
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Posted: 4/27/2014 4:23:06 PM EDT
[#7]
I just use hot water when cleaning.
Use whatever I have handy as a rust preservative. Using Rem-Oil right now because it is what I have. I've found the trick is to repatch the bore with oiled and dry patches for a few days after cleaning and store the gun muzzle down to allow barrel to drain. |
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Posted: 4/29/2014 9:54:04 PM EDT
[#8]
First question > Is your barrel removable from the stock? ~ If so after cleaning and dry patching set it across two of your stove burners..... Set low, you will hear the last of the moisture sizzle out. Wrap foil around the scope if it is near the heat... A mix of equal parts Tallow and Bees wax, with a bit of boiled linseed or Neats foot oil to give it more workable nature 9 to 1 solids to oil. This is what all of the old now dead guys from the black powder club used. Leather conditioner, boot sealer, patch and bullet lube, Seal off revolver cylinders to prevent chain fire.
>> In the Mid-country it is the things you always had available and it does not go bad.... Tallow was used on the steam engines of ships, over oil because it did not wash off, well into the 50's then synthetics took over. >>>Look for a youtube on rendering tallow, a half cup goes a very long way. bees wax is easy to find. *** I have a couple of the Pattern Locks [made there own lock and triggers, stocks, furniture] They were alive when center fire was New. |
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Posted: 5/11/2014 3:32:43 PM EDT
[#9]
I used Bore Butter when I first got into blackpowder because I figured it was the way to go with a muzzleloader. But it's a pain. Store it for a while and it dries hard in the bore. And it plugs up the flash channel easily. It makes a decent patch lube, but as a bore preservative, there are better options.
I switched to my usual stuff, Break Free. Been using it for years in the bores of all my guns (muzzleloader, centerfire, and rimfire) and never had a problem with rust, even with long-term storage. One or two dry patches before shooting removes it from the bore, then you're ready to shoot. Works for me. |
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Posted: 5/11/2014 7:50:02 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I used Bore Butter when I first got into blackpowder because I figured it was the way to go with a muzzleloader. But it's a pain. Store it for a while and it dries hard in the bore. And it plugs up the flash channel easily. It makes a decent patch lube, but as a bore preservative, there are better options. I switched to my usual stuff, Break Free. Been using it for years in the bores of all my guns (muzzleloader, centerfire, and rimfire) and never had a problem with rust, even with long-term storage. One or two dry patches before shooting removes it from the bore, then you're ready to shoot. Works for me. Any issues with "tar" forming between the petrolium oil and the black powder soot? |
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Posted: 5/11/2014 10:12:28 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Any issues with "tar" forming between the petrolium oil and the black powder soot? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I used Bore Butter when I first got into blackpowder because I figured it was the way to go with a muzzleloader. But it's a pain. Store it for a while and it dries hard in the bore. And it plugs up the flash channel easily. It makes a decent patch lube, but as a bore preservative, there are better options. I switched to my usual stuff, Break Free. Been using it for years in the bores of all my guns (muzzleloader, centerfire, and rimfire) and never had a problem with rust, even with long-term storage. One or two dry patches before shooting removes it from the bore, then you're ready to shoot. Works for me. Any issues with "tar" forming between the petrolium oil and the black powder soot? People are often afraid to use modern lubes in the bore because they've heard horror stories about it turning the barrel into a relic from Chernobyl. That's only a problem if you shoot it with the oil still in the bore. Like I said, a couple of dry patches removes the oil before shooting. I've been doing this for years and not experienced any problems. If you prefer, you can also use a patch with some rubbing alcohol on it to make sure. I've found Break Free is much easier to use than Bore Butter and does a far better job of protecting the bore from rust. Some prefer older traditional stuff, like various greases. But I'm not reenacting, I'm just shooting, so I don't find it necessary to go that far with the particulars. |
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Posted: 6/8/2014 10:05:18 AM EDT
[#12]
FPNI. Hot soapy water. Since sperm whale oil is as sacred as unobtanium, try rendering bear fat into bear oil. Ned Roberts mentions it in The Muzzle Loading Cap Lock Rifle. A classmate and I did that in Trinidad and another classmate who was 1/2 mile away smelled it. We all laugh about the day we stunk out the town.
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Posted: 6/18/2014 12:42:48 PM EDT
[#13]
In the field I use TC 13 solvent. At home, like everyone else, I use soapy water to clean and Barricade as a rust preventative.
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Posted: 6/20/2014 6:24:58 PM EDT
[#14]
Hot soapy water, and a hot water rinse, dry, and apply bore butter. All I use in my 1861 Springfield. I haven't shot it in 2 years, bore still as shiny as when i packed it away.
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Posted: 7/10/2014 11:43:11 AM EDT
[#15]
Elbow grease. Clean every last trace of burned powder out of it. Then Break Free. Just run a dry patch down the barrel before snapping two caps and then loading.
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Posted: 7/14/2014 1:03:00 PM EDT
[#16]
Hot soapy water to clean and Eezox for rust prevention.
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Posted: 7/14/2014 1:47:12 PM EDT
[#17]
Ballistol
/thread |
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Posted: 7/18/2014 12:35:36 AM EDT
[#18]
All of the above are good. It is frequency and upkeep with them that matters. You just can't walk away from an old gun (A Civil War gun?) that probably has a pitted barrel without expecting to see some rust soon. Lube it all the time. It's the only way you can keep Mr. Rust at bay.
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Posted: 7/19/2014 3:31:44 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
All of the above are good. It is frequency and upkeep with them that matters. You just can't walk away from an old gun (A Civil War gun?) that probably has a pitted barrel without expecting to see some rust soon. Lube it all the time. It's the only way you can keep Mr. Rust at bay. Yes the 1863 colt special contract musket is an origional civil war gun. I do check it for rust every so offen and re grease the barrel. |
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Posted: 7/19/2014 5:18:36 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Ballistol /thread |
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Posted: 7/19/2014 7:39:17 AM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Which FWIW is more or less perfumed WD-40. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Ballistol 
I don't think so |
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Posted: 7/19/2014 2:40:42 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I don't think so Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Ballistol I don't think so There's a pretty big differance. |
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Posted: 7/19/2014 2:55:47 PM EDT
[#23]
From the WD-40 page
"The catchall phrase "Stoddard Solvent” is no longer adequate to tell the proper story. <nobr>WD-40</nobr> does indeed have 50% mineral spirits, but they are refined and purified for specific characteristics needed to meet today’s performance, regulatory, and safety requirements." Then there's Naphtha and distillates and stuff, all pretty easy to find online. The MSDS for Ballistsoil... Ballistol contains medicinal grade mineral oil, alkaline salts of oleic acid, several alcohols, Benzyl Acetate and an oil from vegetal seeds. The mineral oil is unchlorinated and conforms to the specifications of US Pharmacopeia XX. Volatile Organic Components (VOCs) As an aerosol Ballistol contains 33.8% VOCs. As a non-aerosol it contains 5.3% VOCs So, yea, the bulk of what's doing the work after the lighter stuff evaporates off in both cases is mineral oil. |
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Posted: 7/19/2014 5:24:04 PM EDT
[#24]
Ballistol and WD-40 are quite different
I dilute Ballistol with water for cleaning corrosive stuff. WD-40 displaces water They are not even close to being the same product
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Posted: 7/19/2014 5:38:40 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Ballistol and WD-40 are quite different I dilute Ballistol with water for cleaning corrosive stuff. WD-40 displaces water They are not even close to being the same product |
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Posted: 7/19/2014 5:50:32 PM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I guess you're not picking up what I'm putting down. ditto I'm not gonna argue with you about it. Have a good weekend |
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Posted: 7/19/2014 6:03:07 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: ditto I'm not gonna argue with you about it. Have a good weekend Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I guess you're not picking up what I'm putting down. ditto I'm not gonna argue with you about it. Have a good weekend Both leave mineral oil behind as a lubricant/ protectant. |
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