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Posted: 2/17/2014 2:53:22 PM EDT
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Posted: 2/17/2014 3:04:12 PM EDT
[#1]
That's a good looking pistol. I my have to get one.
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Posted: 2/17/2014 3:18:23 PM EDT
[#2]
what promo code?
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Posted: 2/17/2014 3:22:25 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
what promo code? Right next to where it says $5 shipping is a promo code. Upper right portion of the page. |
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Posted: 2/17/2014 4:57:17 PM EDT
[#4]
I must be reading the thread title wrong. Buck and a half meaning $1.50 or $150.00?
Promo code says not applicable to firearms... is it considered a firearm since it's black powder? |
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Posted: 2/17/2014 5:06:11 PM EDT
[#5]
$150 The shipping is only $5 when using the promo code
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Posted: 2/17/2014 6:10:07 PM EDT
[#6]
Would be a smokin deal if steel frame.
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Posted: 2/17/2014 7:21:43 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Would be a smokin deal if steel frame. Are steel frames more desirable? |
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Posted: 2/18/2014 9:55:36 AM EDT
[#8]
Absolutely, Brass frames don't hold up well to a lot of full power loads. Shoot them enough and the first thing that you notice is the imprint of the cylinder in the breech face, then the cylinder pin starts getting loose. Most people just don't shoot a BP revolver enpugh to ever notice it. I have two that are now cannibalized parts guns that I shot to pieces years ago. Steel frame only for me now except for my dad's gun. Stay on the low side and you'll probably never see any probs with a brass frame.
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Posted: 2/18/2014 2:40:42 PM EDT
[#9]
Thanks for the info.
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Posted: 2/18/2014 4:49:46 PM EDT
[#10]
Like I said, MOST people will never shoot BP enough to shake it loose. I also wouldn't do a cartridge conversion cylinder in a brass frame. No way Jose!
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Posted: 2/18/2014 7:14:10 PM EDT
[#11]
Is that even a copy of anything that ever existed? I think they are cheap because its a flopped promotion. Folks like their 51 navy's to be 36, if you want a 44 go Walker, Dragoon or 60 Army.....
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Posted: 2/23/2014 11:57:01 PM EDT
[#12]
Is that even a copy of anything that ever existed?
No. The Confederacy had a brass frame version .36 1851 Navy Colt during the Civil War to save short supplies of steel. Same with the .44 Remington 1858 New Army-brass frame in the Confederacy although the originals were steel. Pietta makes several brass or steel framed versions of those also. These brass framed Italian made cap and ball pistols in .44 caliber will hold up well if low power loads are used. 20 grains of FFFg or Pyrodex equivalent will not abuse them and provide a ton of fun. The manual lists a min-max of 15-35 grains of FFFg. If you want to go big, get a Ruger Old Army. 
With $5 shipping and sales tax it came to $167 +/-. Showed up yesterday and I'm more than pleased with the fit, finish and lock up. I was surprised to see the manual states using .454 balls. I assumed .451 would be used and have some to try. If they shave a slight ring of lead on seating in the chambers, they will work fine. ETA: I had a brass frame Remington New Army I bought from Gander Mt. around 1982 for $129. I shot about 300 rds. through it and sold it in 2011 for $110. I rarely shot hot loads and it held up fine. I had a blued Old Army also, which I regret selling. Those are unbeatable for a cap and ball revolver. Built like a tank. Some interesting reading on cap and ball pistols and their loads. The .36 round ball was known as a capable killer, even though having about 100 ft./lbs. of energy at 30 yds. http://www.theopenrange.net/forum/index.php?topic=133.0 |
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Posted: 2/24/2014 2:13:01 PM EDT
[#13]
I picked up the Griswold and Gunnison they have in the bargain cave right now. Should be here Wed.-edit. Got it
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Posted: 2/28/2014 2:02:45 AM EDT
[#14]
A good deal. I just don't care for the brass frame. For God's sake, could somebody please start making a genuine Navy copy? I want the proper .36 Cal.
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Posted: 2/28/2014 12:28:55 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A good deal. I just don't care for the brass frame. For God's sake, could somebody please start making a genuine Navy copy? I want the proper .36 Cal. Steel frame-36 cal. The frame is color case hardened and the cylinder has a roll-engraved naval scene. Not sure if those details are a deal breaker for a "genuine" copy. Steel 1851 Navy - .36 caliber |
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Posted: 4/7/2014 10:15:43 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
A good deal. I just don't care for the brass frame. For God's sake, could somebody please start making a genuine Navy copy? I want the proper .36 Cal. Both Uberti and Pietta make the correct .36 and case hardened frame. |
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Posted: 5/14/2014 3:01:00 PM EDT
[#17]
First let me say, I own more of those 1851s in 44 with brass frames than I can count, also one Remington new army/brass. All are fine after 15 years of shooting, includeing maximum charges of 3f.
Second let me say; I remember when those were $78. I'm glad I got them when I did. |
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Posted: 5/28/2014 10:24:57 PM EDT
[#18]
I just got one of these
That little keeper for the push rod front of the barrel. slips out of the dove tail with finger pressure Trying jb weld so far it's cured and held Been a week now Since I have no caps and can't find any anywhere it's going to sit for a while before getting shot Sucks too figured black powder caps would of Been accessible anywhere Guess not |
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Posted: 5/30/2014 3:42:08 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I just got one of these That little keeper for the push rod front of the barrel. slips out of the dove tail with finger pressure Trying jb weld so far it's cured and held Been a week now Since I have no caps and can't find any anywhere it's going to sit for a while before getting shot Sucks too figured black powder caps would of Been accessible anywhere Guess not |
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Posted: 5/30/2014 4:51:28 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted: First let me say, I own more of those 1851s in 44 with brass frames than I can count, also one Remington new army/brass. All are fine after 15 years of shooting, includeing maximum charges of 3f. Second let me say; I remember when those were $78. I'm glad I got them when I did. For instance, 78 bucks in 1990 is 136 as of last year. The same 78 bucks in 1980 is 213 now. |
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Posted: 5/30/2014 2:20:08 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Depending on the year you got them for that price, they might cost the exact same when inflation is taken into account. For instance, 78 bucks in 1990 is 136 as of last year. The same 78 bucks in 1980 is 213 now. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
First let me say, I own more of those 1851s in 44 with brass frames than I can count, also one Remington new army/brass. All are fine after 15 years of shooting, includeing maximum charges of 3f. Second let me say; I remember when those were $78. I'm glad I got them when I did. For instance, 78 bucks in 1990 is 136 as of last year. The same 78 bucks in 1980 is 213 now. What's funny is I was making more money back then than I am right now. 
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Posted: 5/30/2014 2:33:20 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: What's funny is I was making more money back then than I am right now. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: snip What's funny is I was making more money back then than I am right now. Fucked up world. |
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Posted: 5/30/2014 2:52:10 PM EDT
[#23]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Are steel frames more desirable? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Would be a smokin deal if steel frame. Are steel frames more desirable? Only if you shoot them. Wall hangers look better in brass. .......and if you get right down to it, I think the best shooters are the 1858 Remington styled revolvers in stainless steel. I have a bunch of each as shooters and wall hangers. 
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Posted: 5/30/2014 5:18:56 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Only if you shoot them. Wall hangers look better in brass. .......and if you get right down to it, I think the best shooters are the 1858 Remington styled revolvers in stainless steel. I have a bunch of each as shooters and wall hangers. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Would be a smokin deal if steel frame. Are steel frames more desirable? Only if you shoot them. Wall hangers look better in brass. .......and if you get right down to it, I think the best shooters are the 1858 Remington styled revolvers in stainless steel. I have a bunch of each as shooters and wall hangers. Brass is stronger than you think. I was reading in a welding manual about brass brazing, the guy who wrote the book was a welding instructor and said he had welded for NASA. He said he put brass and steel in a laboratory test machine that pulls on metal to test it's strength, he did it to show his students. The brass was actually stronger. |
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Posted: 5/30/2014 5:26:42 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yea.. My Father made more money in the 80's making "less" than he does now. Fucked up world. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
snip What's funny is I was making more money back then than I am right now. Fucked up world. Yeah, but I meen I was literally making more. In '99 '00 I was making $10.75 plus benifits and lots of OT. Now I'm making $9.50, 32 hours a week, temp status and no benifits. At one point in 2003 I was making over $17 an hour. And to think, back then I complained about $1.50 a gallon gasoline.
I'm sure the workers that make these, or any other product, aren't getting paid any more now than then. So they'll say "cost of materials has gone up". Steel? You've got, what, a pound or 2 of steel? Maybe it went up $2. Somebody is getting rich and it ain't us. 
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Posted: 5/30/2014 5:33:37 PM EDT
[#26]
brass frame! I would not buy it at any cost good maker though
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Posted: 12/19/2014 10:18:32 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I had the same problem with the keeper, it would drop the loading ram when shot. I just filed the keeper deeper so that the lug would engage deeper into the recess and that fixed it. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I just got one of these That little keeper for the push rod front of the barrel. slips out of the dove tail with finger pressure Trying jb weld so far it's cured and held Been a week now Since I have no caps and can't find any anywhere it's going to sit for a while before getting shot Sucks too figured black powder caps would of Been accessible anywhere Guess not didnt think of doing that hopefully the jb weld holds finally got caps and powder in last month I think I had waited maybe 7 months for that stuff to finally come in and jb weld will be cured for sure with that long of a wait 
I think in a week or two I will finally be able to shoot it for the first time, long wait for me
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Posted: 12/25/2014 3:49:45 PM EDT
[#28]
I'm looking at these right now. It will primarily serve as my sidearm during muzzleloader season.
My question is, if you HAD to, would this kill a deer HUMANELY at under 50 yards? I'm not trying to use this as my primary deer gun, but if something goes wrong with my rifle, could I depend on this gun to drop a whitetail without having to track it for three counties until it bleeds out? |
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Posted: 12/25/2014 11:45:21 PM EDT
[#29]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I'm looking at these right now. It will primarily serve as my sidearm during muzzleloader season. My question is, if you HAD to, would this kill a deer HUMANELY at under 50 yards? I'm not trying to use this as my primary deer gun, but if something goes wrong with my rifle, could I depend on this gun to drop a whitetail without having to track it for three counties until it bleeds out? Not the .36. You're looking at about a .32 ACP level of power. They'll work for dispatching a wounded deer at close range. The .44 would only be marginally better. |
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Posted: 12/26/2014 12:48:36 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not the .36. You're looking at about a .32 ACP level of power. They'll work for dispatching a wounded deer at close range. The .44 would only be marginally better. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I'm looking at these right now. It will primarily serve as my sidearm during muzzleloader season. My question is, if you HAD to, would this kill a deer HUMANELY at under 50 yards? I'm not trying to use this as my primary deer gun, but if something goes wrong with my rifle, could I depend on this gun to drop a whitetail without having to track it for three counties until it bleeds out? Not the .36. You're looking at about a .32 ACP level of power. They'll work for dispatching a wounded deer at close range. The .44 would only be marginally better. thanks |
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Posted: 12/27/2014 8:23:40 AM EDT
[#31]
I got the Pietta New Army 1858 Remington in all stainless a while ago. I spent some time buffing out the metal and redoing the grips some. Looks really sharp now but I'd like to get some pearl grips for it as it'll go well with the Vaqueros that are pearled and buffed. It's still on sale for $319. I just sent away for an extra cylinder (stainless) as it and the blued ones are also now on sale. Either can be used in it. Not to bad a combination for under $400.
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Posted: 12/27/2014 1:48:03 PM EDT
[#32]
I have one I got around 1980 and the only difference I can see is mine has a round barrel - which I think is accurate for a brass-framed Confederate gun. Only "real" colts had the hexagonal barrels.
Regardless, there's lots of fun to be had with one - just be sure to either cover the chambers with grease, or use the new pre-lubed patches they make now. I didn't know that at first and once had one or two chambers go off when I fired it. That was a bit of a shock! 
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Posted: 12/28/2014 12:22:55 PM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
didnt think of doing that hopefully the jb weld holds finally got caps and powder in last month I think I had waited maybe 7 months for that stuff to finally come in and jb weld will be cured for sure with that long of a wait
I think in a week or two I will finally be able to shoot it for the first time, long wait for me Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I just got one of these That little keeper for the push rod front of the barrel. slips out of the dove tail with finger pressure Trying jb weld so far it's cured and held Been a week now Since I have no caps and can't find any anywhere it's going to sit for a while before getting shot Sucks too figured black powder caps would of Been accessible anywhere Guess not didnt think of doing that hopefully the jb weld holds finally got caps and powder in last month I think I had waited maybe 7 months for that stuff to finally come in and jb weld will be cured for sure with that long of a wait
I think in a week or two I will finally be able to shoot it for the first time, long wait for me If a part slips out of a dovetail, whether it be the part that holds the loading lever or a sight on a firearm, remove the part, hold it firmly in a vise and use a pointed punch to divot the underside of the dovetail near the edge. That will swell the size of the dovetail and create a press fit. |
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