 osprey21
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Joined: Jan 2001  FL, USA
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Posted: 6/3/2012 8:54:09 AM
THE IMAGE ABOVE IS A PAID ADVERTISEMENT It was wrapped in rust retardant paper and there is no paper work. It's in mint condition and looks (to me) that it was really never fired. All I know about it is that it's a .44 and made by F.LLi Pietta in Italy but I'm not exactly sure what model it is - I think it's a replica of a Colt Model 1860 Army. Any help is appreciated.    |
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Posted: 6/3/2012 9:55:38 AM
Yes looks like a brass framed 1860 Co;t Army. You can buy the same gun today for around $300.00 It will make a fine shooter it uses .451 balls and conical bullets.
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Posted: 6/3/2012 10:20:04 AM
[Last Edit: 6/3/2012 10:20:36 AM by Him]
Steel framed 1860 Army replica with brass back strap and trigger guard.
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Posted: 6/3/2012 10:52:14 AM
[Last Edit: 6/3/2012 10:53:26 AM by effinNewGuy]
I have a similar type pistol made by Uberti. The blackpowder pistols are a hoot to shoot. (hey that rhymes!) Smoke everywhere after firing. Not made for accuracy by any means but a whole bag of fun!
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mic214
Damn, those were the Droids we were looking for!
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Joined: Aug 2004 NM, USA
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Posted: 6/3/2012 12:25:32 PM
Wow, what a great gift.........BP pistols are a whole lot of fun to shoot!
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Posted: 6/6/2012 4:16:38 PM
Very nice. You should take it out to the range and blast away in honor of its previous owner.
For some starter information, I recently jumped into BP pistols as well. Here's my write up of my experiences, with what gear I bought, etc. http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_16/369423_Rookie_black_powder_shoping__shooting__and_cleaning_experiences__Remington_1858.html For those of us who still have our heath and well being, we don't realize how much it means to those who are not as healthy or young, to spend some time helping them out. What seems a small act to us is so important to them. If you know someone who has some health or mobility issues, help them out. It will mean so much to them to know that you care. |
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osprey21
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Posted: 6/6/2012 4:44:10 PM
Thank you. Yes, I need to get out to the range and shoot it "for him".
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Dave_Markowitz
A little short for a Storm Trooper
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Joined: Jul 2004 PA, USA
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Posted: 6/11/2012 1:45:58 PM
Originally Posted By Him: Steel framed 1860 Army replica with brass back strap and trigger guard. This is correct. Osprey, that's a darn nice gift. Since you're new to percussion revolvers, I suggest reading these two threads by Gatofeo over on THR:
They are chock full of really good info. I've seen Gatofeo posting here recently, as well.
Some tips:
Your Pietta will use either .451 or .454 balls. I'd lean towards the latter, since they should still seat easily but will give a longer bearing surface than .451s, potentially giving better accuracy. Either way, the ball should be oversized compared to the chamber and unless the chamber mouth is chamfered, you should shave off some lead when you seat the ball.
Remington No.10 caps are generally preferred nowadays and should fit the nipples on your gun snugly without needing to be pinched. Pinched caps are out of round and can let flash from an adjoining chamber in, causing a chainfire.
I prefer using a lubricated felt wad between powder and ball over sealing the chamber mouths with grease. It's much less messy, and after the first shot, most of the grease on the other chambers is blown off anyway.
I've bought a few Piettas in the past 3 or 4 years and all of them came from the factory with the nipples screwed into the cylinder really tight. I suggest dropping a little penetrating oil into the chambers so it can soak into the threads, before you try unscrewing them. You'll need a revolver size nipple wrench to remove the nipples. When you reinstall them, use anti-sieze on the threads and only screw them in finger tight. You don't need to really crank down on them.
If you get into this, your gun may benefit from some tuning. There are some good articles here on how to do so.
I've tried a bunch of different things for cleaning BP guns and I've settled on Windex as my favorite. The combination of water + surfactants does a very good job of removing the fouling.
The cleanest burning powder you can get is Hodgdon Triple 7, which is a black powder substitute. It's also more energetic than real BP, so you can use less of it. Swiss Scheutzen powder is very good powder with more power to it than Goex, and is also noticeably cleaner burning than Goex. Pyrodex is another usable BP substitute but is even more corrosive than real BP according to many reports. Clean your gun well the same day you shoot it and it shouldn't matter, though.
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pukindog
insignificant background character
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Joined: Feb 2007 TN, USA
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Posted: 6/11/2012 7:31:20 PM
I think I just ordered the very same thing from Cabela's...
http://www.cabelas.com/catalog/product.jsp?productId=705022&categoryId=0&parentCategoryId=0&subCategoryId=0&indexId=0&itemGUID=dde11bc4ac1084552be2e55bbe314119&destination=/checkout/basket.jsp |
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osprey21
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Joined: Jan 2001 FL, USA
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Posted: 6/12/2012 4:12:32 AM
Originally Posted By Dave_Markowitz: Originally Posted By Him: Steel framed 1860 Army replica with brass back strap and trigger guard. This is correct. Osprey, that's a darn nice gift. Since you're new to percussion revolvers, I suggest reading these two threads by Gatofeo over on THR:
They are chock full of really good info. I've seen Gatofeo posting here recently, as well.
Some tips:
Your Pietta will use either .451 or .454 balls. I'd lean towards the latter, since they should still seat easily but will give a longer bearing surface than .451s, potentially giving better accuracy. Either way, the ball should be oversized compared to the chamber and unless the chamber mouth is chamfered, you should shave off some lead when you seat the ball.
Remington No.10 caps are generally preferred nowadays and should fit the nipples on your gun snugly without needing to be pinched. Pinched caps are out of round and can let flash from an adjoining chamber in, causing a chainfire.
I prefer using a lubricated felt wad between powder and ball over sealing the chamber mouths with grease. It's much less messy, and after the first shot, most of the grease on the other chambers is blown off anyway.
I've bought a few Piettas in the past 3 or 4 years and all of them came from the factory with the nipples screwed into the cylinder really tight. I suggest dropping a little penetrating oil into the chambers so it can soak into the threads, before you try unscrewing them. You'll need a revolver size nipple wrench to remove the nipples. When you reinstall them, use anti-sieze on the threads and only screw them in finger tight. You don't need to really crank down on them.
If you get into this, your gun may benefit from some tuning. There are some good articles here on how to do so.
I've tried a bunch of different things for cleaning BP guns and I've settled on Windex as my favorite. The combination of water + surfactants does a very good job of removing the fouling.
The cleanest burning powder you can get is Hodgdon Triple 7, which is a black powder substitute. It's also more energetic than real BP, so you can use less of it. Swiss Scheutzen powder is very good powder with more power to it than Goex, and is also noticeably cleaner burning than Goex. Pyrodex is another usable BP substitute but is even more corrosive than real BP according to many reports. Clean your gun well the same day you shoot it and it shouldn't matter, though. Awesome, thank you! |
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Posted: 6/15/2012 11:53:04 PM
i have large hands that don't fit that grip frame well at all.......however, ruger copied it fairly closely on their blackhawk. my 1860 army repro now sports a set of Hogue finger groove rubber mono-grips and now fits my hand comfortably. I have been toying with the idea of upgrading to the wood version to be more authentic
 . just some food for thought.
advntrjnky |
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Posted: 6/17/2012 12:23:44 AM
IMO, the 1860 Army is the best looking C&B revolver of them all. There are two books I consider mandatory reading for everyone new to BP.
The Complete Black Powder Haandbook by Sam Fadala and Black Powder Hobby Gunsmithing by Sam Fadala and Dale Storey As mentioned above, make sure you thoroughly clean it the same day you fire it. If it's a humid day, rust will begin that same day. So, if it's going to be a few hours before you are able to clean it, bring along a spray lube, like Remoil, and soak it down to keep it from rusting before you get home and clean it. To clean, I prefer very hot soapy water. After cleaning, rinse it off with extremely hot water. That will heat up the metal and it will dry itself. Then just lube it well. |
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Posted: 6/18/2012 7:54:13 PM
Not to quibble, but it looks like the backstrap is blued steel while the triggerguard is brass and the frame is cased-hardened steel. The backstrap on these guns was steel –– that is, the ones that were cut for a shoulder stock, as this one is –– to take the additional stress of mounting the shoulder stock.
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Posted: 6/18/2012 7:58:37 PM
Not to quibble, but it looks like the backstrap is blued steel while the triggerguard is brass and the frame is cased-hardened steel. The backstrap on these guns was steel –– that is, the ones that were cut for a shoulder stock, as this one is –– to take the additional stress of mounting the shoulder stock.
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Posted: 6/19/2012 8:28:09 AM
Originally Posted By Dave_Markowitz:
[/div][div]I prefer using a lubricated felt wad between powder and ball over sealing the chamber mouths with grease. It's much less messy, and after the first shot, most of the grease on the other chambers is blown off anyway.[/div][div] +1 |
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