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Posted: 5/2/2017 4:31:16 AM EDT
I picked up this enfield last week and I'm thinking I want to try to get the cosmoline out of the stock.
i'v been reading that if I put it out in the sun and wipe it down several times the stock will brighten up a bit to a nicer finish. am I going to lose any of the collectability doing this? tips? ideas? 
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Posted: 5/2/2017 10:35:35 AM EDT
[#1]
I don't know about losing any collectability value by cleaning up your rifle but...I have read that placing the stock in a black trash bag & putting it in the back window of your vehicle (or anywhere in the sun) will heat it up and draw out the cosmoline.
When removing and refinishing my Ishapore 2a, I use a product called Citri-strip on the wood. Worked very well and is not damaging to the wood as oven cleaner is. I understand oven cleaner works on the metal parts and many seem to use it on the wood, too. But, wood workers and C&R purists cringe at using oven cleaner on rifle stocks. Citri-Strip for the win! eta: nice rifle, OP. |
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Posted: 5/2/2017 10:52:14 AM EDT
[#2]
Best method is to put the wood stock parts in your dishwasher and run it 2-5 times through with hot water. First time use soap. That will remove everything including the finish (which is horrible anyway). Once done and completely dried lightly sand the wood stock pieces and use Tru-Oil for however many coats and darkness you want on it. You will get the stock as natural as it can be with the original grain and will look much better.
Agreed...Rifle looks in nice shape! |
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Posted: 5/2/2017 11:39:42 AM EDT
[#3]
Personally, I'd just hit it with 0000 steel wool to raise the grain a bit, and rub some boiled linseed oil in. Rub hard, until the wood gets warm. Then let it sit for 15 minutes or so, and buff the excess off with a cloth. A couple of coats should produce a nice look, and this was the standard practice for maintaining Enfield stocks in the field.
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Posted: 5/2/2017 11:55:43 AM EDT
[#4]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That will remove everything including the finish (which is horrible anyway). Once done and completely dried lightly sand the wood stock pieces and use Tru-Oil for however many coats and darkness you want on it. You will get the stock as natural as it can be with the original grain and will look much better. |
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Posted: 5/2/2017 12:07:38 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
It's also completely removing just about all the original qualities of the stock. There's absolutely no reason to completely strip that stock, much less sand it, and switching to Tru-Oil is both completely incorrect for the gun and pointless -- the original, correct finish is readily available. |
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Posted: 5/2/2017 12:26:15 PM EDT
[#6]
Black bag it. Wrap in newspaper inside first. Set in sun.
The dish washer trick might split or warp your wood. It will surely screw it up if you let it go through the drying cycle. BLO or Tung oil for a finish. While I do like the looks of Tru Oil it's not original. |
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Posted: 5/2/2017 12:28:36 PM EDT
[#7]
If you really want to draw out the dark staining oil, acetone will work great, it draws out oil (that's why they say to wear gloves, it will actually draw the oils out of your skin)....get enough acetone, and some sort of vessel big enough to soak the parts, and let the acetone do its thing...the wood WILL come out dry, so then rub it down with several coats of BLO, until it stops absorbing it, then buff...
The garbage bags and hot sun will work, but not as good as Acetone (which evaporates completely, and leaves no residue behind, assuming its good, pure acetone...) ETA I would NEVER use the dishwasher method....  I don't care what anyone says, that cant be good for your stock!
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Posted: 5/2/2017 12:45:46 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If you really want to draw out the dark staining oil, acetone will work great, it draws out oil (that's why they say to wear gloves, it will actually draw the oils out of your skin)....get enough acetone, and some sort of vessel big enough to soak the parts, and let the acetone do its thing...the wood WILL come out dry, so then rub it down with several coats of BLO, until it stops absorbing it, then buff... The garbage bags and hot sun will work, but not as good as Acetone (which evaporates completely, and leaves no residue behind, assuming its good, pure acetone...) ETA I would NEVER use the dishwasher method.... I don't care what anyone says, that cant be good for your stock! There is absolutely nothing wrong with them after they dry that I can tell. Granted I'm not very patient when it comes to removing old stock cosmoline or varnish so it's just a personal personal preference.
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Posted: 5/2/2017 2:26:24 PM EDT
[#9]
WoW where to start...
50/50 mix of acetone and denatured alcohol with enough whiting power to make a medium paste. Paint it on good, wrap in plastic and set somewhere good and hot for a day. Brush off with plastic brush and reapply as many times as needed. Once de-oiled, wipe good with pure acetone. Dry well, then refinish. MY preference is raw linseed oil mixed 50/50 with mineral spirits. 3-4x one day between coats. YMMV |
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Posted: 5/2/2017 3:15:25 PM EDT
[#10]
I don't necessarily want to refinish it, just clean it up.
I don't want someone to look at it 20 years down the road and curse my name for ruining a piece of history. I confess, as I brows the armslist and gunbroker, I sometimes udder not nice things when I see what people have don't to good rifles...like the early type 99 with full mum I saw yesterday.....cerakoted and drilled and taped for a scope....right through the mum  
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Posted: 5/2/2017 6:34:21 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I don't necessarily want to refinish it, just clean it up. I don't want someone to look at it 20 years down the road and curse my name for ruining a piece of history. I confess, as I brows the armslist and gunbroker, I sometimes udder not nice things when I see what people have don't to good rifles...like the early type 99 with full mum I saw yesterday.....cerakoted and drilled and taped for a scope....right through the mum Remove the wood from the rifle. Give it a few coats (2 or 3) of BLO with 0000 steel wool and LIGHT pressure. Using too much pressure will make the wood glossy and too smooth. Wipe off until dry between coats. Wipe stock dry and use a hair dryer on low to help bleed some excess out. Wipe dry. Let it air dry for a few days. Reassemble Shame on people here saying to do a full refinish with stripping the wood and sanding. 
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Posted: 5/2/2017 6:51:55 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Wow, who spit in your cereal? If he wants to keep the original shit coating be my guest. I want that thing perfectly clean whether I use tru-oil or the original stuff. Nothing is going to be completely original once you clean off the cosmoline unless you just leave it anyway, and its still going to mess up the original (crappy) finish a little. And the sanding is to smooth out the burs if any, not take any wood off at all. Like 600 grit or finer sandpaper. I wasn't sure if he wanted to keep it completely stock or wanted it too look better, so chill... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
It's also completely removing just about all the original qualities of the stock. There's absolutely no reason to completely strip that stock, much less sand it, and switching to Tru-Oil is both completely incorrect for the gun and pointless -- the original, correct finish is readily available. |
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Posted: 5/2/2017 7:09:28 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I don't see anywhere in sjuhockey's post where he needed to "chill". It's not like he told you to piss off, or anything. |
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Posted: 5/2/2017 7:41:55 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
There is no need to white night for him over the word "chill" then either...I took his direct comment as he needed to a "chill" little and I didn't tell him to piss of either. It wasn't clear exactly what the OP meant. Don't stir the pot. |
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Posted: 5/2/2017 7:51:41 PM EDT
[#15]
let see if we can get the thread back on track
whats the last bit of the markings mean? "No4MK1ROF (F) 11/42" obviously number 4mk1 and November 1942, but what does the ROF (F) mean? 
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Posted: 5/2/2017 8:08:35 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I guess I don't view pointing out crying over a difference of opinion being a "white night", which I assume you meant "knight". But you do you. Sorry mods, I'm done. OP I apologize for the off topic posts and hope your gun turns out the way you want it to. |
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Posted: 5/2/2017 9:09:19 PM EDT
[#17]
Royal ordnance factory Fazakerly.
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Posted: 5/3/2017 10:32:01 AM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Wow, who spit in your cereal? If he wants to keep the original shit coating be my guest. I want that thing perfectly clean whether I use tru-oil or the original stuff. Nothing is going to be completely original once you clean off the cosmoline unless you just leave it anyway, and its still going to mess up the original (crappy) finish a little. And the sanding is to smooth out the burs if any, not take any wood off at all. Like 600 grit or finer sandpaper. I wasn't sure if he wanted to keep it completely stock or wanted it too look better, so chill... Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
It's also completely removing just about all the original qualities of the stock. There's absolutely no reason to completely strip that stock, much less sand it, and switching to Tru-Oil is both completely incorrect for the gun and pointless -- the original, correct finish is readily available. Using heat to draw out some of that excess oil-soaking will remove some of the "good" oil as well, but that's easily added back in (and should be added back in as needed, per British maintenance standards). You may not have made this observation, as I don't know how much time you've spent in this forum, but "completely stock" is pretty much the overarching theme of the C&R forum -- if you look through past threads/posts, you'll find there isn't much to be had in the way of refinishing discussions, or things of that nature. Given that OP asked about "not screwing up" his Enfield and specifically mentioned concern about removing collectibility, it would seem reasonable that refinishing the stock (since that's what sanding and changing the finish constitutes) wasn't what he was aiming for. You're certainly more than free to do whatever you like with your guns, but I don't think that's a good answer to someone who is at least somewhat concerned about maintaining originality/collectibility. You, of course, can disagree as vehemently as you like, and I can assure you that there will be no histrionics or hyperbole in return. I hope that's chill enough for you. |
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Posted: 5/3/2017 10:37:27 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
let see if we can get the thread back on track
whats the last bit of the markings mean? "No4MK1ROF (F) 11/42" obviously number 4mk1 and November 1942, but what does the ROF (F) mean? http://i27.photobucket.com/albums/c183/J75player/shooting/IMG_20170428_173428438_zpsp1qutnkg.jpg If you look on some of the other bits (barrel bands and such), there may be other manufacturer codes, since many of the subcomponents were contracted out. My Long Branch has stock hardware manufactured by Canadian Cycle & Motor, for instance. |
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Posted: 5/3/2017 10:39:42 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Going after C&R furniture with sandpaper is generally poorly regarded, as is the use of an incorrect stock or metal finish. Using heat to draw out some of that excess oil-soaking will remove some of the "good" oil as well, but that's easily added back in (and should be added back in as needed, per British maintenance standards). You may not have made this observation, as I don't know how much time you've spent in this forum, but "completely stock" is pretty much the overarching theme of the C&R forum -- if you look through past threads/posts, you'll find there isn't much to be had in the way of refinishing discussions, or things of that nature. Given that OP asked about "not screwing up" his Enfield and specifically mentioned concern about removing collectibility, it would seem reasonable that refinishing the stock (since that's what sanding and changing the finish constitutes) wasn't what he was aiming for. You're certainly more than free to do whatever you like with your guns, but I don't think that's a good answer to someone who is at least somewhat concerned about maintaining originality/collectibility. You, of course, can disagree as vehemently as you like, and I can assure you that there will be no histrionics or hyperbole in return. I hope that's chill enough for you. |
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Posted: 5/3/2017 11:42:32 AM EDT
[#21]
If you do the trash bag in a car method tightly wrap the stock with paper towels. Pack all the crevices with them. That will soak up the cosmo when it begins to liquefy.
After doing thay a few times, or till you've had enough, use denatured alcohol and a paper towel on the surface of the stock. If you need to do more gen go to steel wool. If that doesn't work then step it up a notch by doing a 75/25 alcohol/acetone mix and go LIGHT. Once done use OOOO bronze wool and RLO or BLO. |
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Posted: 5/3/2017 7:40:50 PM EDT
[#22]
Yup, just looking to clean it up NOT refinish.
Is there a video or step by step instructions for taking the stock off? The butt stock looks pretty easy, and I bet I can figure out the forend... But this is my first Enfield and I want to make sure I don't miss anything 
Think I'm going to start with the trash bag in the sun method and see where we go from there. I do have plenty of BLO for knife handles that I make, so hopefully that will be an acceptable application. |
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Posted: 5/4/2017 12:02:12 AM EDT
[#23]
My favorite method is to go out on a really hot day to the range and shoot a hundred rounds or so rapid fire- the wood gets hot and the grease leeches from the stock pretty well!
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Posted: 5/4/2017 12:48:20 AM EDT
[#24]
I am only in possession of 60rds for it
I added 3 new calibers in the last couple weeks
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Posted: 5/4/2017 1:32:12 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Yup, just looking to clean it up NOT refinish. Is there a video or step by step instructions for taking the stock off? The butt stock looks pretty easy, and I bet I can figure out the forend... But this is my first Enfield and I want to make sure I don't miss anything
Think I'm going to start with the trash bag in the sun method and see where we go from there. I do have plenty of BLO for knife handles that I make, so hopefully that will be an acceptable application. 1) Remove the magazine. 2) Remove the bolt. On a No. 4 Mk. I, depress the bolt release plunger and retract the bolt. When the bolt head reaches the plunger, remove your finger and the plunger will pop up, lifting the bolt head and allowing the bolt to be removed completely from the rifle. 3) Remove the small screw holding the front sight protector in place. Slide the protector forward and off. 4) Remove the screw at the bottom of the front band. Pull the frond band forward and off. 5) Remove the front handguard. 6) Remove the screw at the bottom of the middle band. Pull the middle band forward and off. 7) Remove the rear handguard. 8) Unscrew the two screws holding the trigger guard in place - the large front (king) screw and the small long transverse screw at the rear. Pull the trigger guard out. 9) Pull the forestock down and forward to remove. While removing the forestock on a No. 4 before the buttstock isn't needed, it is on a No. 1/SMLE, so get into the habit of doing it first. 10) Open the trap door on the buttplate. Remove anything in the trap. Using a very long screwdriver, remove the large bolt attaching the buttstock to the receiver. Remove the buttstock. There, you are done. BLO is not just acceptable, it's the correct finish for an Enfield (RLO was occasionally used at different times as well, but linseed oil in all cases). |
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Posted: 5/10/2017 6:35:59 PM EDT
[#26]
Stock is coming along good, still pretty dark but looks much nicer. Been putting it under a 1000w work light and wiping periodically. The butt plate here looks to be brass and fairly tarnished. Any harm in running it across a buffer wheel? 
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Posted: 5/10/2017 7:39:33 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
My favorite method is to go out on a really hot day to the range and shoot a hundred rounds or so rapid fire- the wood gets hot and the grease leeches from the stock pretty well! A Greek return M1903 with alcohol and thought I got the most of it. Hot sunny day and a couple boxes of ammo and that gun poured out oil. |
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Posted: 5/10/2017 7:45:57 PM EDT
[#28]
I would probably just buff the heavy tarnish on the brass buttplate with a bit of steel wool. No need to go crazy and some patina is good.
At least you got a buttplate. My recent long branch came with a red head rubber pad on a sawn walnut stock. I think I will replace it with a long branch S (short) stock. The bugaboo will be sourcing an excellent walnut fore stock. |
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Posted: 7/13/2017 3:52:40 PM EDT
[#29]
Be sure you give that stock PLENTY of time in the heat to leech that oil from the grain. It will start to piss you off to high heaven when every time you take your rifle out in the heat of the day it starts seeping cosmoline.
After you get the oil removed from the wood. 50/50 BLO and Mineral Spirits for the first 2 coats. USE HANDS ONLY - no rags. Your body heat from rubbing the wood down is plenty to get the oil moving into the wood and the thinning lets the oil get deep on the first few coats. It also lessens the chance of the BLO spontaneously combusting and burning your house down by using BLO and rags. IMHO, rubbing the wood like that really connects you with the rifle. You feel every bump, edge, ding, etc. After 2 or so coats with the mix, just use straight BLO but still use your hand. Let rifle sit for 15-30 minutes and remove access BLO with soft cloth and dispose/negate according to OSHA standards regarding combustible items. 
Edit for some Enfield Porn |
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Posted: 7/20/2017 6:49:11 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Best method is to put the wood stock parts in your dishwasher and run it 2-5 times through with hot water. First time use soap. That will remove everything including the finish (which is horrible anyway). Once done and completely dried lightly sand the wood stock pieces and use Tru-Oil for however many coats and darkness you want on it. You will get the stock as natural as it can be with the original grain and will look much better. Agreed...Rifle looks in nice shape! |
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Posted: 7/20/2017 6:55:18 PM EDT
[#31]
I've soaked oily stocks in turpentine and then put them in a black bag full of oil dry or cat litter.
Water is bad. Sandpaper is bad. Anything other than 100% BO is bad. Part of the fun of military rifles is the oozing of old preservative when you shoot them. It's kinda prissy to be sanitizing a rifle because it might get your hands dirty. |
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Posted: 7/22/2017 10:56:00 PM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Horrible advice. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Best method is to put the wood stock parts in your dishwasher and run it 2-5 times through with hot water. First time use soap. That will remove everything including the finish (which is horrible anyway). Once done and completely dried lightly sand the wood stock pieces and use Tru-Oil for however many coats and darkness you want on it. You will get the stock as natural as it can be with the original grain and will look much better. Agreed...Rifle looks in nice shape! Additionally, Tru-Oil is not original and is not a good gun finish. It winds up too slick and too slippery. |
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