My Tula 91/30 loads rounds smoothly but once fired I have to turn the rifle on its side and beat the bolt to get it to turn. Sometimes it ejects the spent casing sometimes it doesnt. Its clean and lubed. Any suggestions?

Sounds like a worn extractor. You said clean tho right? sometimes if theres still cosmoline in the bolt, it can heat up with shooting and cause jams and stickiness

take a chamber brush, put it on a power drill, and use that to remove any gunk in the chamber

^ ^ ^ ^ This ^ ^ ^ ^   Firing lacquered steel cases, can over time, build up a gunk that gets reactivated when each case gets fired.  The empty case in turn gets glued to the chamber.  It only gets worse.  Try this before heroics and bigger hammers.

Should I wet it in Hoppes or let it spin while its dry

I did it dry

This does work but its pretty aggresive.
Try taking it out of the wood stocks and soak the action in diesel.

a mosin can handle that

Actually no, it's got nothing to do with lacquered steel cases, that's a myth.  It's got to do with cosmoline that has hardened to the chamber while the rifle was in storage for 60 years. What happens is when the rifle is shot, usually about the 5th round or so, the hardened cosmo begins to melt causing the chamber to become very sticky, almost like glue. I had the same issue with one of my mosins and the chamber brush/drill solved the problem.

 


Combloc ammo FAQ










 

Some days I feel like I need to make a mosin trouble shooting flow chart....

For trying to get the bolt open, first you need to remember mosins cock on open which means they will open harder then pretty much any other bolt action rifle.
Yours seems exceptionally bad but you have to narrow it down more for any decent suggestions besides the standard sticky bolt.

If you dry fire with out a round chambered do you still have the same issue?
Is it only after you fire several rounds?
When you close the bolt, dose it lock smoothly or is it kind of tight?


Ejection is a bit easier.
As long as your pulling the bolt back in a quick fluid motion my bet is on sneaky cosmoline. Only way to make sure is to pull the stock, remove the ejector/interrupter spring and pulling the ejector/interrupter, then use something small to clean out the slot in the receiver. Most of the time that will fix them. If it don't your ejector may be wore, or your extractor may need adjusted.

Also, you may drill out the chamber all you like and it might not fix the issue if there's still cosmoline/debris in the locking lugs of the forward receiver. I've found this to be an issue more often than the chamber. It's hard to get in there and get it all out, but be sure to try. I use a dental pick to reach in and scrape away the gunk.

This is why removing the barreled action from the stock and soaking said action in a solvent (take your pic) is the most efficacious method. Treat all the potential problem areas at once. Throw the bolt parts in the solvent, too. Old cosmoline on any of the aforementioned parts is going to make operation sluggish. Use caution when removing the extractor. DO NOT force it. Use light taps from a brass hammer.



That may or may not be the case, but why do it at all if it's not necessary? Overzealous application of a chamber brush could lead to circumferential grooves in the chamber which would really play havoc with extraction. The solvent method should be the first course of action.

Is this with steel casings?  Lots of times, steel cases expand on firing and don't shrink back down, kind of locking themselves into the chamber.

It is only time to be concerned if it happens with good, boxer brass cases firing reasonable loads.

Instead of chewing up the metal in your chamber with a dry brush, use lots of solvent.  Mine had a crazy amount of supremely sticky Ruskie cosmoline all over it.

Both my 91/30 and M44 had stiff bolts that got so bad after firing a few rounds you had to hit it open and closed with the palm of your hand.

I removed the action from the stock and disassembled the gun.. Using a heat gun I heated the metal up so it was nice and warm. Then I used kerosene and poured it in the barrel. I then ran a bore brush  through. I ran a kero soaked patch through the bore and it came out black. I did this until the patches came out clean. I used a ton of them. I followed this with Hoppes. Once everything came out clean I took a .410 mop chucked in a drill and some JB bore paste and spun it in the chamber for like 30 seconds or so. Then I cleaned it real good again. I cleaned all the other parts. Once I had it clean and oiled I reassembled and put it back in the stock. Next I disassembled the bolt and cleaned it good, set the firing pin depth.

After this both have been smooth as silk since.

The problem with steel cases is that they DO NOT expand on firing. That's why so many complain about combloc ammo being 'dirty'.

 

Boil a pot of water and use a turkey baster to flush the lug recesses, chamber, and barrel.  Let it flash dry, then clean normally.

Had the same problem with my M39. Tried everything until realized it was actually the cartridge interrupter that needed cleaning. Been working flawlessly ever since. So if you still have the problem, that's one place to check.

I'm sorry, but they sure as hell do in 7.62x39

Take the gas piston out of your SKS and see for yourself.  I did.  Steel factory cases were highly variable in whether they remained expanded and stuck, or shrank back down and extracted easily.

EDIT:

It is easy to spot sticky brass in a straightpull like the SKS above.  With my wartime M91/30, the generally crude, rough, balky way in which the short bolt handle dishes out primary extraction to the fired case masks a lot of any stickiness which can occur.  Further, I am not seeing any noticeable blowback from an improperly obturating case in any of the Russian steel cased ammo I shoot, whether 9mm Luger, 7.62x39, 7.62R or .223

Same here - about 20% of the mosins in my collection have this problem.  All of them improved after cleaning or replacing the interrupter and thoroughly cleaning the chamber.