My jealousy. Nice pistol.

Same. You have me thinking "Lucky bastard", that's what.

How so? I don't know hardly anything about these

It's definitely the most worn gun I've ever owned

I don't know what you have, but I want it.
My favorite HP's are the older ones with the takedown cutout on the slide.

Because you actually got one! I was too slow, they were sold out before I saw the listing. Drat.

Looks like a nice solid pistol, honestly. These were Israeli police pistols, BTW.

I didn't think these were. These were c&r and pre 62

All of these recent HP imports are ex-Israeli guns. Some are C&R, most are not (same with the Star Model Bs that are on the market now, they're Israeli sell-offs).

Well, it's pre-1953 but not wartime.  If you look under the barrel and all over the place, you may find a single letter stamp that indicates year of production.  Could be prewar, but the Belgians duplicated serial numbers on contract runs, so the serial number itself won't date it.

Still interested in any info anyone has on it. Is it worth fixing it up or should I leave it in current condition?

 
If it was a beat up post-60 commercial, I'd say have fun with it.


But, given its age, I would just treat it as a shooter and leave it as is.  If it's definitely pre-war, leave it alone.

New recoil spring and you're good to go...internal extractor replacements are hard to find but unless it's giving you trouble it shouldn't need adjusting/replacing.  I bought a couple of the B.A. Police HP's in the nineties and they were great shooters.

I have nothing but respect for the HP pistols, but for the money they sell for, I'd much rather get a used Sig or HK or something.  

I know, I should shut my whore mouth...

 
We appreciate your understanding of our position.

Any know what the markings are? Or a resource I can find out

I don't know about the whole SIG or HK thing but I found them more than a bit over-priced myself. Condition of the OP's H-P is about what I've been seeing. I had no qualms about passing on them.

The one Old Painless did a review on was about the best looking one I saw but he did a "fluff & buff" on it.

That said if you don't already own a older H-P they are about the only game in town. It does not look like they are getting any cheaper.

The marks correspond with proofing the firearm. The Crown over Oval with ELG inside is the Belgian Definitive (or final) Proof Mark. The Lion over PV is the mark for rifled barrels. The Star over M is an inspector mark. Could be the person who did the proofing. This info is from 3 ed. Gunmarks by Balderson and Standard Directory of Proof Marks by Wirnsberger

What you have here???

I'll tell you what you have:  one of the finest pistol designs in the WORLD made by the finest manufacturer of that design - EVER!  That is a super-nice gun; you are lucky you have it!!!!

It looks great!  No all of them came with lanyard rings (you lucked out again).  A new recoil spring from Wolff is probably in order; the original is terribly old. Might want to replace them all.  While you are the Wolf spring page, get extra magazine springs too since they wear out, or better still, its probably best to just replace the magazines with new ones altogther (originals are probably shot by now; why risk it?).  

Also, like with any HP, you will want to avoid +p and especially +p+ 9mm ammunition:  STANDARD PRESSURE AMMO ONLY!  

Also looks like the model you got has the early internal extractor; these are impossible to find so be very very careful with that; I would not even try to take it out of the gun at all for risk of it breaking (its one piece).  They were originally "tensioned" at the factory when new and hopefully that original tension setting still works; otherwise you have a huge (expensive)  problem on your hands.  With that internal extractor, you might want to keep the round-count down.

FOr more info, google the page by the late Stephen Camp; his page (if its still up) is an excellent resource in trying to keep these old guns working.  Congrats on your purchase.

great information and help!

eta: is this an Israeli one like previously speculated? I thought those had a star stamp

What power recoil spring? What other springs should I get?

Mag is in bad shape so probably just order a couple more from brownells

Check the BHP section at 1911forum.com.  Lot of info on both old and late BHP's.

Wolff's Hi Power springs leave a lot to be desired. For example, the recoil spring is way too long. Go with Browning springs.

Use only factory spec Browning springs as sold thru Brownells and no extra weight stuff.

With internal extractors ONLY load from the magazine and NEVER drop one in the chamber and let the slide drop....you WILL break the extractor at some point.  

Clean and lube and as stated do not shoot +P ammo.

The Brwnells mags are fine.  Also, Mec Gar used to make BHP mags; if they still do, then buy with confidence.  Or just get one from Browning; it will work.  But please clean any new bag before 1st use.

Avoid "mystery mags" or Pro Mag.

I honestly have no idea how ProMag stays in business. Do any of their products actually function?

Brownells sells Mecgar mags and the springs you need .

Already ordered. Thanks!

Looks very similar to the old beat high powers we used to find in Iraq ( was there 04-05) and yes it is a pretty early one. I think they changed from the internal extractor in the early 50's? Decent shape for its age really. Any refinishing /modifications  would be a travesty

The grips are in really bad shape. What would be some nice semi correct grips to compliment this old gun

Ordered some wood grips from sarco. They look very similar to the ones on there except they aren't trashed

A buddy and I completely disassembled it today, I'm talking all the way. Cleaned everything with break clean and oiled up and reassembled

It's like a new gun!

Does anyone have good info on how to remove mag safety?

1911 forums browning hi-power section has all the info you will EVER need about a BHP

It is one of the pins on the trigger itself, knock it out, the plunger and spring will automatically eject themselves.  No more magazine safety.

Finally got my reproduction grips and lanyard ring replacement. Figured since I was working on it I'd try the click test

Mine failed. What is the significance of this exactly? It's never going to be a carry gun or more than a collectable and range toy for me

Near as I can tell the click test is a lot of worry about nothing.

In a nutshell, the click test is attempting to fire the (empty) gun on safe and see if the sear moves at all.

The top of the hammer notch is 0.022" above the nose of the sear when the gun is cocked.

Pushing down on the sear you can get the top edge of the sear 0.001" above the hammer notch.

0.023" of movement with the safety on.

The sear nose is 0.038" tall, so 0.037" is still engaged after you pull the trigger with the safety on.

I've got the Browning field service manual for the Hi Power.  My sear is in spec.  That means the little nub that's supposed to rotate to block the sear is a little low.  However it does confirm that there should be no movement of the sear with the safety on.

The huge question here is:  Does it matter?  Is the no movement a legal or engineering requirement?

The gun is not going bang with the safety on and there's still lots of engagement of the sear.  Thwacking it with a leather mallet sometimes got the sear nose to drop back down into the notch and it never dropped the hammer.  In most cases the hammer and sear stayed right were they'd been left and I never got a decrease in engagement.

It's also the same seven pound trigger pull to get the hammer to drop whether I start with the partially or fully engaged sear.

I intend to get things so they don't move with the safety on, but I don't think this is as dire a safety issue certain posters and gun smiths make it out to be.  I think this is a case of the perfect defeating the good-enough.