Originally I bought this rifle to do a modern precision rifle, but seeing a couple of other sporterized rifles redone into reproduction sniper rifles, I decided to go that route to have a companion with my Gibbs 1903A4 reproduction. It's completely non-matching (barrel, action, trigger guard, bolt), but I'm still debating on whether or not to swap barrels to a .308 Lothar Walther.  I've won a 1950's era 7x scope that will top this once I get the LSR mount from Accumounts.  Only problem so far is getting the rear sight back on the barrel.  I have to have the front sight assembly/ring taken off and the rear sight assembly pushed on and soldered, then rear mount and solder the front sight in order to see what this barrel will do to decide if I want to keep it or go with the .308 (much easier to find good/affordable/accurate ammo than 7.92x57mm).  It has a pretty damn nice trigger in it, but I'm not sure if it has had some work done to it or not.  I've got a Huber Concepts steel match trigger to put in it if need be.  I've also bought a reproduction sniper cupped buttplate and plan on getting the sniper safety blade as well.

Anyways, how she came when I got her.  I have paid $275 for this:







































This is how it sits in my safe now.  The replacement stock I won it on Ebay from J&G for $177 shipped.  They sell the nicer stocks they have and get a little more for it.  This is a solid hardwood and still has the three waffenamts on the butt stock, though they are faint (third picture you can barely see them).  It's a little damaged on the front right but I knew that bidding on it and she could use some TLC on the metal like the rifle itself. The top hand guard will not stay on without the rear sight assembly, but other wise, I'm pretty happy.







Anyways, hopefully "restoring" an old Bubba-special into something representative of the time will go over a little better and be fun to shoot as well.

brilliant save.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to get the buttplate off without damaging the wood so I can put the sniper repro on it?  Also, what's the best way to get the front sight off so I can put the rear sight assembly on?  I'm hoping to not have to solder the rear sight on and that the set screw and top hand guard will provide enough tension to hold it through a few strings of fire to see how the accuracy is.  I assume the set screw in the front sight is not enough to hold it on through the same strings and that it will definitely need to be silver soldered back on?

I managed to get the front sight pushed out, the set screw out and the base off, allowing me to push on the rear sight base.  I have the leaf and slider already and the spring and ramp are supposed to be here tomorrow.  Is there any where I can see how everything fits together?  Along with the rear sight set screw, what else holds everything together?  Have I forgotten a random pin or anything?

Around a year or so ago I remember a resniper job that the guy had redone in  .308. I forget which forum. Turned out looking very good. If you are going this far and put a lot of work and a scope on it why not .308?  You already mentioned a couple of good reasons to not go 8mm. Odds are much better on having a good shooter with a new barrel versus a 70 year old one. You could sell the 8mm barrel to fund it along with what's left of the sporter stock. For the butt plate, I'd try to tap it all the way around on the sides with a rubber mallet. Then take a brass punch and try taping on the top screw hole at an angle. Might also have to carefully use a flat blade screw driver and gently try prying it to get it started. I'd also suggest you look into glass bedding. It is not that hard to do if you take your time. A good bedding job from the chamber to the rear tang will get you much more consistent shots.

As soon as I can find a sporter like yours I'll be doing the same thing. Nice work so far.

That thread is what gave me the idea to begin with.  Originally I was going to just use the action and make a modern precision rifle.  He posted a link to his restoration in another thread about this and I completely changed my mind to do this.

K98 rear sights were soldered in place. The screw was just to hold it in position while the soldering operation happened.

Will the set screw and the top hand guard hold the rear sight in place long enough to fire a few groups?  I don't want to spend the money of having someone solder it into place (not something I want to do and mess up) only to figure out I would rather change the barrel.

The hand guard doesn't really hold anything, as it's the sight base that holds the hand guard. I would guess that the set screw may shear under the forces of recoil.

You could possibly use red loctite to affix it. This way you can use a heat gun to get it back apart.

I was assuming the sling ring on the front of the top hand guard would provide enough rearward tension into the rear sight assembly to cut some of those forces.  

I planning on using blue thread lock at the least.

Blue might work, but the temperatures reached during shooting may be enough for the thread lock to soften. Red will come apart, you've just got to get it a bit hotter.

The lower band doesn't apply that much pressure. I've got some K98's where the hand guard floats and will move. If you're looking to shoot groups and evaluate a barrel, the HG isn't stable enough as a brace.

I'm guessing the Loctite option is so you can evaluate the barrel and see if it shoots well. I think it may hold up for a bit. I have my doubts. For any kind of accuracy testing you will need several types of ammo to see which shoot best. Letting it cool between strings always helps. Because you are going to have solder it no matter what barrel you go with how about trying to lightly solder it just for testing. If you don't like the way it shoots it would be easier to remove. If it does well then just add more to finish it. I'm all for getting out and shooting more but in the end it might just be better to go with the .308 barrel as far as time and effort are concerned.

I put this in a lot of my posts but you should really look into hand loading. With a project like this you would be amazed at the difference between ancient spam can ammo and even most factory ammo. Not that they are not good. US 8mm factory ammo is usually loaded lighter than European surplus. I've pretty much cut my surplus Yugo groups in half with Varget and Hornady 195gr bullets. I wouldn't even consider anything but hand loads for my .308 precision bolt gun.

My hesitation with soldering is the fact that I'd have to get someone to do it, which cuts into the budget for this thing.  If I thought it would only cost $10 or so, yea, I'd do it.  I have a feeling it's a $50+ thing.  

I used to hand load when I was big into 1k F-Class TR.  The rifle in my avatar loved Lapua brass, CCI 210M primers, 175 gr SMK, and 45.0 grains of Varget.  2.5" five round groups at 600 yards.  I just don't have time with more responsibilities at work and a two year old to take care.  I really miss that rifle.  

Maybe once this one is done that void will be filled.

Got all the misc. parts I need to complete the restoration to a decent level.  Still waiting on the scope from Germany and need to get the LSR from Accumounts.  Hopefully taking her out this afternoon to get a few groups shot.  

Here's how she looks right now:

Excellent restoration!  Great work OP!!

Ok, first groups shot today.  Ammo was Hornady 196 gr. Vintage match.  Weather was 65* and sunny, low wind (3-5 mph) from 7 o'clock.  Groups were shot standing up using the side of my truck bed as prop and a rabbit ear full of kitty litter on the corner as a rest (i.e. not the most stable or perfect) at 50 yards:

First five rounds.  The front sight has that gold bead on it still and I was trying to use the actual tip of the front sight and ignoring the gold bead, hence the high group:


Next five rounds using the tip of the gold bead as my focus point:


Last six rounds.  I tried using my range bag on its side and the rabbit ears to create a more stable position in the prone.  I think that ended up too high as I couldn't use my rear bag to support the butt stock.


All in all, it's solidly mediocre.  I can't decide if it's the barrel, the shooting position, the sights, or all of it combined.  If this is the best match grade ammo can do at 50 yards, I'm definitely rebarreling.  That decision will be made when it's scoped and I get some more match grade ammo and shoot for groups.

Thoughts?

Nice save, good work!

Forgive my pic skills I'm still learning This is from a 42 BCD. Six o'clock hold at 50 yards. Just getting my chrono set up, sighting in and off a rest with irons. I was able to hit my steel plates at 300, 400 and 600. Not every time. I've got 40 year old eyes also. I need to practice more. Left target is Yugo 50s surplus. Right is 46 and 45 grains of Varget under a Hornady 195 gr bullet. Velocity around 2400. No wind. Made the brass out of .270 cases just to try it.

All I've done to the rifle is add some sticky back metal tape in the action area, for bedding. Can't remember the brand. Also cleaned the bore very well as normal and then used some JB bore paste. Started out with a couple shots to dirty the barrel and checked the action screws.

What did you end up using to secure the rear sight? It could be helpful when I find one myself.

You said mediocre first. With you being an F class shooter I'm sure you are doing things correct on your end. I believe that barrel is just not that accurate, at least with that load anyway. I like seeing old sporters brought back. You have done a fine job so far. I can't wait to see how the scope and possible re barrel works out.

I'm honest with myself on my shooting ability, and that was not good shooting.  I really think it was the lack of a small enough target to attempt to hit and my shooting position.  If mine shot as well as yours, I'd probably keep it.  Unfortunately, the barrel may not be as accurate as I want it to be, and that's fine.  The Germans weren't putting out match grade barrels in 1944.  I'll have it scoped and hope that it will allow me to gauge the true abilities of the barrel/rifle.  I have no doubt that a modern barrel trued to the action with the lugs lapped and the bolt face trued will make a truly accurate rifle.  I appreciate everyone's candor and compliments.

As for what I used to secure the rear sight, I had to use a wood block and a small hammer to get into place and rotated, then used the set screw with some blue loctite.  Seems very secure still after that whole box of ammo.  I was more concerned about the front sight base, honestly, so I heated it back up when I got it in place.  The solder reheated enough that it seems to have locked the base back into place.

I need to get the proper front sight blade.  I see on Numrich there are several sizes.  How do I know which blade to buy to bring the groups up to where they need to be?

Received the scope and an Accumount's LSR. Will be dropping off the rifle and stuff to be mounted by the 'smith I use this afternoon. Hope to have it back by late next week if not this week. Will post pics when I do.

Where did you get the scope and mount? Would be nice to have in case stumble across a basket case at the next show.

The 7x scope I won from a guy on Ebay.  He sells period scopes under the name germansniper1 and is based in Kessel, Germany.  It took about 3 weeks to receive it from him once I had I won it.  It's not a Wermacht issued scope, but it's close enough for me and it looks similar to the 8x they used.

The mount I bought from Accumounts.  They get decent reviews for what they are.  The whole kit comes with a drill bit, tap, and the correct screws.

Thanks!

Nice job.

nice work.

also post 762

Good rescue, OP.

Got the rifle back from my 'smith this afternoon.  Can't wait to shoot it as soon as this flu bug stops ravaging the inhabitants of my house.

Looks great, way better than mine.

Now we wait for updates with group pictures.(I still haven't had the chance to shoot mine)

Thanks!  I'm not sure I agree with "way better than mine."  I really like how yours looks as well!

No telling when that may be.  Definitely after the first of the year.  Wife and 2 year old both have the flu right now, so when I'm at home I'm dressed up like an Ebola nurse trying not to catch it.  Christmas next week, work, blah blah blah.  

Hopefully the weekend of New Year's.  I've got 5 days off then.  Would be an opportune time, I think.

It came out nice. It has the look of the rifle Ed Harris used in Enemy At The Gates. Great project.
Hopefully you can get it out and see how well it shoots soon.

I sent her off to Charles Romero in Vermont (goes by slingshot4828 on Gunbroker) today  after reading a bunch of his feedback and emailing with him over the weekend.  I'm having him rebarrel it in .308 and lap the lugs, work the stock over for accuracy and a few spots repaired, a trigger job, and then rephospated per the German specs.

I'll post pics and range impressions when I get her back.