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Ghetto
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Posted: 7/28/2012 7:26:23 PM
[Last Edit: 8/5/2012 9:38:03 PM by Ghetto]

THE IMAGE ABOVE IS A PAID ADVERTISEMENT
Picked this up today from a guy walking around a gun show with it, he wanted $750 but we settled on $600.



Now this intrigues me the most, what's up with the mark around IN and EL I honestly didn't notice in person but someone in GD pointed it out to me.

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metalman3006
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Posted: 7/28/2012 9:13:12 PM
Looks like it was drilled and tapped for a scope mount and someone plugged it and tried to redo the lettering.
Ghetto
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Posted: 7/28/2012 10:30:16 PM

Originally Posted By metalman3006:
Looks like it was drilled and tapped for a scope mount and someone plugged it and tried to redo the lettering.

Was it at one time an 03A4?
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tangeant
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Posted: 7/28/2012 10:57:06 PM
Bad buy. Did the guy you bought it from dance a jig as he walked away with your $600 !

Recvr has been drilled which kills collector value also looks cold blued.

Recvr isn't a A4 and the hole looks to far forward for a A3/4 type Redfield mount.

You got Boned...
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Posted: 7/28/2012 11:12:28 PM

Originally Posted By tangeant:
Bad buy. Did the guy you bought it from dance a jig as he walked away with your $600 !

Recvr has been drilled which kills collector value also looks cold blued.

Recvr isn't a A4 and the hole looks to far forward for a A3/4 type Redfield mount.

You got Boned...

I'm not that worried about collector value as I am it being a good shooter, plus it looks good next to my 03 MK1

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Ghetto
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Posted: 7/29/2012 10:30:49 AM

Now let's look at the hole on the side of the receiver (which they all have) and the marking/repair on the top of the receiver.



So I stuck a pen on the hole in the side and it parallel to the mark on top, both of which would be "protected" by the bolt


I personally think (and hope) that it's safe to shoot
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madcratebuilder
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Posted: 7/29/2012 6:22:00 PM
It's safe to shoot, I would confirm the head space and blast away. It's a plug job for sure, looks like it was heavily sand/bead blasted and blued. Price is not to lout of line, you could part it for what you paid..
RickH11
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Posted: 7/30/2012 11:25:13 PM
The hole on the side is called a "Hatcher hole" named after Col Hatcher. It was added after 1926 to most O3s. The purpose of the hole was to relieve gas in case of an action failure. The Marines did not modify their O3s.
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Posted: 7/31/2012 10:16:51 AM
Originally Posted By RickH11:
The hole on the side is called a "Hatcher hole" named after Col Hatcher. It was added after 1926 to most O3s. The purpose of the hole was to relieve gas in case of an action failure. The Marines did not modify their O3s.


Even my 1918 Springfield 03 MK1 has the hole

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Brazos
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Posted: 7/31/2012 11:28:05 AM
[Last Edit: 7/31/2012 11:31:11 AM by Brazos]
Mk1's didnt come with Hatcher Holes, but many were drilled during re-arsenal. All A3's had them. Hatcher Holes were added to rearsenal mods in 1939.

At $600 I dont think you took a real bath...maybe $50-$75 too much. If the bore is in good shape and its headspaced fine then you have a good shooter. Just an FYI, any barrel date past 1-44 is going to be a replacement since production pretty much wrapped up at the end of '43.

Your other option if you get tired of looking at it is to pull the plugs and slap on a Redfield base and a scope & knock off the front sight base, and you will have an A4 clone.
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Posted: 7/31/2012 11:37:45 AM
Originally Posted By Brazos:
Mk1's didnt come with Hatcher Holes, but many were drilled during re-arsenal. All A3's had them. Hatcher Holes were added to rearsenal mods in 1939.

At $600 I dont think you took a real bath...maybe $50-$75 too much. If the bore is in good shape and its headspaced fine then you have a good shooter. Just an FYI, any barrel date past 1-44 is going to be a replacement since production pretty much wrapped up at the end of '43.

Your other option if you get tired of looking at it is to pull the plugs and slap on a Redfield base and a scope & knock off the front sight base, and you will have an A4 clone.


The A4 option is a good idea and I'll see how it shoots next week.
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madcratebuilder
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Posted: 8/1/2012 10:15:26 AM
Originally Posted By RickH11:
The hole on the side is called a "Hatcher hole" named after Col Hatcher. It was added after 1926 to most O3s. The purpose of the hole was to relieve gas in case of an action failure. The Marines did not modify their O3s.


The term "Hatcher Hole" only refers to the gas vent hole added to the rifle after production. Any rifle made prior to 1936 with a left side gas vent hole has a "Hatcher Hole". All rifles made from 1936 to end of production has a gas vent.

The USMC added the hole to all '03 receivers in inventory in 1936-37.

Read Canfields book, "'03 Springfield Service Rifle".

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Posted: 8/5/2012 9:42:49 PM
[Last Edit: 8/5/2012 10:44:40 PM by Ghetto]
Finally made it to the range today and after 4rds the stock cracked


There was a guy at the ranger who knows a lot more about older guns than I do and he noticed that there wasn't a spacer around the rear bolt, so the bolt had slack around it in the wood before it threaded into the receiver. So I'm guessing a spacer and some wood repair would fix it up, is this correct? I looked on my 1918 Mk1 and it has a spacer that's made into the stock itself. So where can I find this spacer for purchase if that's the issue?

ETA: I put the rifle back together and this is as far as the rear screw will go in, is this normal because it looks short too me.


This is the spacer that I'm talking about and that my rifle doesn't have.

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Posted: 8/5/2012 11:19:35 PM
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Brazos
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Posted: 8/6/2012 1:58:53 AM
[Last Edit: 8/6/2012 2:01:22 AM by Brazos]
You need the spacer but that is not what caused the crack. You should have plenty of relief between the rear of the reciever extention and the stock, and you dont. There needs to be no contact all the way around the rear extention. This crack is very common in stocks that have not been properly fitted. As to repair, you may be able to repair it with Acraglas if its not too deep. Releive the wood around the extension with a Dremel wheel if you have one.

The action screw is not too short...Remington drilled the hole all the way through to make manufacturing easier, on 1903's it is a Blind Hole. No worries there.

How did it shoot?
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Posted: 8/6/2012 9:22:04 AM

Originally Posted By Brazos:
You need the spacer but that is not what caused the crack. You should have plenty of relief between the rear of the reciever extention and the stock, and you dont. There needs to be no contact all the way around the rear extention. This crack is very common in stocks that have not been properly fitted. As to repair, you may be able to repair it with Acraglas if its not too deep. Releive the wood around the extension with a Dremel wheel if you have one.

The action screw is not too short...Remington drilled the hole all the way through to make manufacturing easier, on 1903's it is a Blind Hole. No worries there.

How did it shoot?

Even in the 2nd picture I don't have enough clearance? The 1st pic is while I was still at the range with the action pushed back into the stock.
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Brazos
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Posted: 8/6/2012 9:35:15 AM
Second pic shows the bare minimum. The stock should be clear of the tang from the point were the radius changes in the curve of the tang all the way around. Google for pics. You will find plenty.
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Posted: 8/6/2012 9:56:16 AM

Originally Posted By Brazos:
Second pic shows the bare minimum. The stock should be clear of the tang from the point were the radius changes in the curve of the tang all the way around. Google for pics. You will find plenty.

Gotcha, I've got a buddy who's a gunsmith and he fixes stocks (not refinishes) quite a bit so I'll give it to him and let him repair it, thanks for your help!
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SteelonSteel
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Posted: 8/6/2012 2:43:14 PM
yep, it happens. I fixed a M39 Finnish mosin nagant with such a crack. They're caused by the action moving and the round metal acting like a splitting wedge. Relieve a 1/16 inch around the back.

To fix what I did based on tips on the surplus rifle forum was to drill down the center of the crack from inside the mortise for the metal tang. Install a wooden dowel or bamboo chopstick segment as it's stronger. Work acraglas into the crack with dental floss so it glues and seals it. Then the dowel goes in with acraglas. Let dry, trim up with exacto gouge/ small chisel or dremel. Should nearly hide that crack when your done and the dowel will be hidden when you drop the metal back in.

Since you're at it, check to see if the recoil lug of the action is actually touching the stock mortise for it. (a ball of clay crushed is a good way to see your engagement. If too loose acraglass that too!.
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'Cause skinny chicks are like laying on a pile of coat hangers....

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Posted: 8/16/2012 1:54:14 PM
Got it fixed and am going to try it out next week!

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USMARINE1108
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Posted: 8/18/2012 7:34:39 AM
Looks good, how did he fix it?
Does anyone know where I can get Hoppe's #9 cologne?
tep0583
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Posted: 8/18/2012 9:47:02 AM
That's damn fine work on the fix.

Your friend does nice work!
Ghetto
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Posted: 8/18/2012 11:17:04 AM
[Last Edit: 8/18/2012 11:17:40 AM by Ghetto]
Originally Posted By USMARINE1108:
Looks good, how did he fix it?


No idea and yes he's a master with wood, he's been gunsmithing for about 40 years now, really good guy and only works 2 days a week.

Oh and he fixed it the same day, I dropped it off around 10am and he called me around 7 saying that it was done
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palmetto
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Posted: 8/18/2012 1:29:20 PM
Originally Posted By SteelonSteel:

Since you're at it, check to see if the recoil lug of the action is actually touching the stock mortise for it. (a ball of clay crushed is a good way to see your engagement. If too loose acraglass that too!.


He might as well shim the recoil lug if he can. I've found worn out K98's in need of this both to prevent damage and to improve accuracy.
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Brazos
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Posted: 8/19/2012 4:46:56 AM
The crack repair looks great, but I would like to see moregap between the wood and the receiver extention. Maybe its just the angle of the photo...
USMARINE1108
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Posted: 8/19/2012 9:16:16 AM
Originally Posted By Ghetto:
Originally Posted By USMARINE1108:
Looks good, how did he fix it?


No idea and yes he's a master with wood, he's been gunsmithing for about 40 years now, really good guy and only works 2 days a week.

Oh and he fixed it the same day, I dropped it off around 10am and he called me around 7 saying that it was done


It does look pretty good. I would guess glue and a vice? Maybe he added a dowel. I have no idea how it's done, that's why I'm asking.
Does anyone know where I can get Hoppe's #9 cologne?
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