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BrownSunshine
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Posted: 6/26/2012 1:32:47 PM

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I tried the blow dryer method, but I'm way too impatient to do the whole gun like this.

Right now we are experiencing a 110 degree heat wave that doesn't look like it is going to let up until sometime next week. I've heard of a few different ways to wrap the gun in trash bags and use the heat to get it out but I'm not sure how.

Any tips/tricks?
wentrogue
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Posted: 6/26/2012 1:49:38 PM
http://russian-mosin-nagant.com/clean.htm

This site is great for Mosin's. Cleaning is towards the bottom
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Backnblack
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Posted: 6/26/2012 1:52:14 PM
wrap it in newspaper then a black plastic bag, place in car, park car in sun...
change out newspaper as needed...
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morrisammo_1
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Posted: 6/26/2012 2:33:41 PM
HOT water........

then dry it with a hair dryer

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dcs12345
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Posted: 6/26/2012 2:34:03 PM
I have just propped my cosmolined up rifles up against the wall in my garage. It gets ungodly hot in their during the summer and the oil just drips off in time. Be sure to leave something on the floor to soak up the oil.
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AJ_Dual
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Posted: 6/26/2012 3:11:57 PM
Originally Posted By morrisammo_1:
HOT water........

then dry it with a hair dryer



Get the barreled action out of the stock, and any other metal parts you can remove non-destructively, and holding them with a pliers at arms-length, douse them with boiling water. It'll melt right off, and be so hot it's self drying as it steams off.

They will be close to bare at this point and need re-oiling to prevent flash rust. Wait until the metal is just cool enough that you can handle it, and the warm metal will take up the oil quite well. Wipe off excess with a rag that's barely damp with oil so it doesn't remove all of it from any surface.

Slow heat and wicking like the sun/bags/car paper towels works on the wood. Solvents or water will destroy the finish.

Hot water and "purple engine degreaser" detergent from the auto aisle of Walmart works great on degreassing really badly soaked stocks. Only do this if the oil/cosmoline soaking is so bad, and the finish so beat up, you've got nothing to lose in doing this. It will strip the stock clean, and while wet, it's a good time to raise any scratches or dings in the wood with a clothes iron of soldering iron and a damp cloth to steam the wood fibers straight again.

The stock will be left looking gray and furry. Let it dry NATURALLY in a dark cool corner for 48-72 hours at least a week is better. Anything you do to try and force dry the wood, like sun, heat, a hair dryer will likely crack or warp the wood. A light sanding to knock down the fur, and the color will return 100% with a proper amber shellac/alcohol finish that is a decent match to what the original Russian/Soviet armories would have used.
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67cobra
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Posted: 6/26/2012 3:16:31 PM
+1 on the boiling water for metal parts. Thats how I've done it. I've also used spray lubes like WD40 or this crap at work to degrease light stuff. It eats the cosmo but doesnt leave the surface dry. For the wood I've left it in front of a space heater, at least a foot away though, or I put the oven on low and put it in there with the door open.
FLATFOOT762
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Posted: 6/26/2012 3:19:14 PM

Originally Posted By Backnblack:
wrap it in newspaper then a black plastic bag, place in car, park car in sun...
change out newspaper as needed...
This is what I did.

Take stock off, strip it down. Place the pieces/parts after you wrapped in newspaper and placed in a plastic bag on the dash of your car.

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AlvinYork
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Posted: 6/26/2012 3:19:57 PM
Originally Posted By AJ_Dual:
Originally Posted By morrisammo_1:
HOT water........

then dry it with a hair dryer



Get the barreled action out of the stock, and any other metal parts you can remove non-destructively, and holding them with a pliers at arms-length, douse them with boiling water. It'll melt right off, and be so hot it's self drying as it steams off.

They will be close to bare at this point and need re-oiling to prevent flash rust. Wait until the metal is just cool enough that you can handle it, and the warm metal will take up the oil quite well. Wipe off excess with a rag that's barely damp with oil so it doesn't remove all of it from any surface.

Slow heat and wicking like the sun/bags/car paper towels works on the wood. Solvents or water will destroy the finish.

Hot water and "purple engine degreaser" detergent from the auto aisle of Walmart works great on degreassing really badly soaked stocks. Only do this if the oil/cosmoline soaking is so bad, and the finish so beat up, you've got nothing to lose in doing this. It will strip the stock clean, and while wet, it's a good time to raise any scratches or dings in the wood with a clothes iron of soldering iron and a damp cloth to steam the wood fibers straight again.

The stock will be left looking gray and furry. Let it dry NATURALLY in a dark cool corner for 48-72 hours at least a week is better. Anything you do to try and force dry the wood, like sun, heat, a hair dryer will likely crack or warp the wood. A light sanding to knock down the fur, and the color will return 100% with a proper amber shellac/alcohol finish that is a decent match to what the original Russian/Soviet armories would have used.


Pretty much the same method that I found works. Very good description. I have done this method with two Mausers, an O3, one Mosin, and a very greasy Garand. Just make sure that the bolt is completely stripped and well oiled before you reassemble it. Don't rush the drying of the stock. Have fun.
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Posted: 6/26/2012 5:22:01 PM
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MagnusM4
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Posted: 6/26/2012 5:28:14 PM
Or you could do it the easy way and lay the action and parts (not the stock) in a tray of paint thinner for 15-20 minutes, dry the parts off, lube them, and you're good to go. You can also take a 20 gauge bore brush and scrub out the chamber.
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TadJackson
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Posted: 6/26/2012 6:55:59 PM
i de-cosmo metal parts with a rag and hoppes #9 solvent, works like a charm.
emt370
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Posted: 6/26/2012 9:11:55 PM
Simple Green mixed with hot water or just boiling water for the small parts (soaked followed by a toothbrush, rinsed in hot water so it evaporates), boiling water inside and outside the barreled receiver, brake cleaner on the trigger parts and in the chamber and extractor cutout if needed. Wipe cosmo off the wood with a rag and then I use a hair dryer or bag it in a trash bag and put on dashboard of hot car if needed. I wrap the stock in paper towels and wrap it tight with twine to keep the towels in good contact with the wood.
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Posted: 6/27/2012 9:03:58 PM
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Posted: 6/28/2012 2:02:51 AM
[Last Edit: 6/28/2012 2:03:04 AM by GLHX2112]
Strip rifle, lay wood parts on dark colored trash bag in back yard... the sun will make that stuff ooze out of the wood in no time. Ever now and then wipe off the stuff that leaks out. It may take a few days, but, the sun does all the hard work.

As others have mentioned, hot water will remove cosmoline in no time. If you have a buddy who has one ,or access to a transmission parts washer, the metal parts will be squeaky clean in about 15 minutes.
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Posted: 6/28/2012 9:35:24 AM
I've always used gasoline. Although I did buy most of my milsurps when gas was around $1/gallon.