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Posted: 11/20/2016 9:52:59 PM EDT
I have a new 10-22 LVT. I love that gun and it shoots very well. It is a jammer though. I put a Volquartsen extractor in it and it didn't make any difference. I really wouldn't care if it was a hunting rifle, but I use it in shooting events where I have to shoot timed strings of fire and a jam will sink your boat.I expect some jams with bulk ammo but today it jammed with CCI which sucked. It likes Aguila though. I let a guy borrow it and it choked consistently with Federal Match. I am thinking about trying a Powers Custom ejector. Anyone ever tried one?
I bought the gun new. I have pawn shop beater 10-22s that virtually never jam with any ammo. |
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[#1]
Did you do an initial tear down and scrub? How is it jamming? Which magazines are you using?
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[#2]
Quoted:
Did you do an initial tear down and scrub? How is it jamming? Which magazines are you using? View Quote I had it all apart when I put the Volquartsen extractor on it. I also put a Kidd buffer in it just because I had one. It is rubber with a steel insert. One time I put an all rubber buffer in a 10-22 and it made the bolt bounce back forward so fast the hammer wouldn't cock and it wouldn't pick up the next round out of the mag. Put the factory pin back in and it was fine. I may pull the buffer out and try the factory pin. The jam I'm getting is a stovepipe and the hammer isn't cocked. I just thought about the buffer thing. It is like the bolt isn't going back far enough to cock the hammer or smack the empty case into the ejector hard enough to kick it clear of the action I've tried a bunch of factory 10 round mags and don't see a difference. |
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[#3]
Have you checked the chamber to make sure it's not damaged from dry firing. I've seen a couple that way. I removed the barrel and found a ding in the breech face. Would cause ammo to stick in the chamber.
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[#4]
I use Power Custom.
I also had Randy at CPC polish the bolt and pin the firing pin for consistent ignition. As a competitor you can't risk losing because of something simple you could have fixed. |
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[#5]
How do the surfaces between the hammer and bolt look? Rough, smooth, polished?
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[#6]
Quoted:
Have you checked the chamber to make sure it's not damaged from dry firing. I've seen a couple that way. I removed the barrel and found a ding in the breech face. Would cause ammo to stick in the chamber. View Quote I got the gun new so I know it hasn't been dry fired much. I may be wrong but I think the 10-22 has a firing pin stop that keeps the pin from striking the back of the barrel when you dry fire. We have dry fired the snot out of some 10-22s without problems. |
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[#7]
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[#8]
Have you tried a lighter recoil spring? The new factory recoil springs are very stiff and the actions are rough. The usual culprit if the hammer is not cocking is the bolt not going all the way back. I like running lighter springs, bolt buffers and VQ extractors for steel matches. It seems to make them run smoother.
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[#9]
Quoted:
Have you tried a lighter recoil spring? The new factory recoil springs are very stiff and the actions are rough. The usual culprit if the hammer is not cocking is the bolt not going all the way back. I like running lighter springs, bolt buffers and VQ extractors for steel matches. It seems to make them run smoother. View Quote That may be something. Who makes the lighter springs? I see a Volquartsen but it says made to fit their competition bolt. I don't know if it will work with a factory bolt. |
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[#10]
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I have a new 10-22 LVT. I love that gun and it shoots very well. It is a jammer though. I put a Volquartsen extractor in it and it didn't make any difference. I really wouldn't care if it was a hunting rifle, but I use it in shooting events where I have to shoot timed strings of fire and a jam will sink your boat.I expect some jams with bulk ammo but today it jammed with CCI which sucked. It likes Aguila though. I let a guy borrow it and it choked consistently with Federal Match. I am thinking about trying a Powers Custom ejector. Anyone ever tried one? I bought the gun new. I have pawn shop beater 10-22s that virtually never jam with any ammo. View Quote Complete strip-down, thorough cleaning, proper lubing, and re-assemble with OEM parts. Get a baseline on it. If it fails to function properly with all OEM parts, something's obviously wrong with it, and you should send it back to Ruger for repair. Substituting aftermarket parts can often improve a properly functioning firearm, but generally won't correct an underlying fault that is not caused by the defective OEM part unless the OEM part being replaced is defective and the sole cause of the problem(s). I understand the desire to replace some of the OEM parts if you are competing with the rifle, but sometimes the improved aftermarket parts will simply mask an underlying problem-- or maybe not, as apparently the case. Use your Warranty; you paid for it. If you do send the thing back to Ruger, consider taking that opportunity to have them fit some "factory-only" spare parts. |
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[#11]
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Who makes the lighter springs? . View Quote http://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-Bolt-Handle-Charging-Assembly-With-Guide-Rod-Springs_p_34.html Here is the whole set. Polished guide rod, handle of your choice, and 3 different springs. |
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[#12]
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http://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-Bolt-Handle-Charging-Assembly-With-Guide-Rod-Springs_p_34.html Here is the whole set. Polished guide rod, handle of your choice, and 3 different springs. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Who makes the lighter springs? . http://www.coolguyguns.com/KIDD-Bolt-Handle-Charging-Assembly-With-Guide-Rod-Springs_p_34.html Here is the whole set. Polished guide rod, handle of your choice, and 3 different springs. Interesting and not expensive. I found a factory bolt stop pin in my junk box so I'm going to put it in and see what happens before I go farther. |
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[#14]
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I got the gun new so I know it hasn't been dry fired much. I may be wrong but I think the 10-22 has a firing pin stop that keeps the pin from striking the back of the barrel when you dry fire. We have dry fired the snot out of some 10-22s without problems. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
Quoted:
Have you checked the chamber to make sure it's not damaged from dry firing. I've seen a couple that way. I removed the barrel and found a ding in the breech face. Would cause ammo to stick in the chamber. I got the gun new so I know it hasn't been dry fired much. I may be wrong but I think the 10-22 has a firing pin stop that keeps the pin from striking the back of the barrel when you dry fire. We have dry fired the snot out of some 10-22s without problems. The ones I had issues with had the bolts reworked so the firing pin was protruding too far. |
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[#15]
Well, I shot about 100 rounds out of the gun today without one jam with the factory steel bolt stop pin installed. Before I was getting at least one jam every two mags. I used Federal Auto Match which guns seem to like or hate. It seems kind of inconsistent and even gives different reports sometimes. I have seen it shoot well though. I realize I caused my own problem with the buffer. That is the second time a rubberized buffer made a 10-22 I had not run right. I am done with them.
I hate the guy that borrowed the gun had trouble because he used it for an Appleseed and prob would have shot Rifleman if the gun had run well. He was shooting well. So there it is. The gun is fine and by messing with it I made it choke. I would encourage any one who likes shooting to get a 10-22 LVT while the getting is good. They handle and shoot better than the carbines, but are still light enough to be a walk around rifle and look good too. I appreciate all the replies and I learned about the spring sets and RAF was right on with his suggestion. Saved me some money and frustration. You guys are alright. I don't care what everybody says about you |
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[#16]
Did it run before putting the buffer and ejector in? Here is a simple rule: always shoot a gun as is out of the box ( clean first if you like) and if it works don't mess with it. It has become very common with glocks for example people take a functional gun run out and dump after market parts in before even trying to shoot it then Complain the gun doesn't work.
Short stroking stovepipes scream the presence of the buffer may be the culprit. If you are shooting steel challenge (I do ) the accuracy and performance demands are not high and my box stock 10/22 does just fine, I see no advantage to tricked out guns for this- for those that like them adding optics is fine but other mods do not seem to do much except cause more finicky function |
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[#17]
Quoted:
Did it run before putting the buffer and ejector in? Here is a simple rule: always shoot a gun as is out of the box ( clean first if you like) and if it works don't mess with it. It has become very common with glocks for example people take a functional gun run out and dump after market parts in before even trying to shoot it then Complain the gun doesn't work. Short stroking stovepipes scream the presence of the buffer may be the culprit. If you are shooting steel challenge (I do ) the accuracy and performance demands are not high and my box stock 10/22 does just fine, I see no advantage to tricked out guns for this- for those that like them adding optics is fine but other mods do not seem to do much except cause more finicky function View Quote I never shot it with the factory bolt stop pin. I put the buffer in because I had it. You are right that engineers work out gun problems and make the guns function and changing things around can be ill advised. That is often seen with the 1911 when everyone is smarter than John Browning lol. There was a time you could not have given me a 10-22, but once I began to mess with them I saw even the carbines will shoot well as long as all the screws are tight, you use quality ammo, and put a BX trigger or Volquartsen target hammer in them. I learned again I am not as smart as Bill Ruger was when it comes to the proper parts for functioning in the 10-22. |
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[#18]
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Well, I shot about 100 rounds out of the gun today without one jam with the factory steel bolt stop pin installed. Before I was getting at least one jam every two mags. I used Federal Auto Match which guns seem to like or hate. It seems kind of inconsistent and even gives different reports sometimes. I have seen it shoot well though. I realize I caused my own problem with the buffer. That is the second time a rubberized buffer made a 10-22 I had not run right. I am done with them. I hate the guy that borrowed the gun had trouble because he used it for an Appleseed and prob would have shot Rifleman if the gun had run well. He was shooting well. So there it is. The gun is fine and by messing with it I made it choke. I would encourage any one who likes shooting to get a 10-22 LVT while the getting is good. They handle and shoot better than the carbines, but are still light enough to be a walk around rifle and look good too. I appreciate all the replies and I learned about the spring sets and RAF was right on with his suggestion. Saved me some money and frustration. You guys are alright. I don't care what everybody says about you View Quote Thank you for the kind comment. I believe others were more-or-less on the same track, so I can't claim any sort of expertise. I suggest you run the thing, bone stock to make certain of its' reliability and accuracy. If it is not up to snuff, then refer to my comments about sending it back to Ruger above, with particular notice to the comments on "factory-fitted' spare parts. If you send it back to Ruger, do so before making any alterations, as they take a dim view of such. As do many 10-22 owners, you will likely replace certain parts to suit your needs. I suggest doing one part at a time, as that way, any problems will be apparent quickly, as opposed to replacing a number of different parts simultaneously, and wondering where the problem originates. One thing that will become apparent after running a lot of rounds through the rifle is wear points within the mechanism. Some of these wear points will be quite visible, and can be smoothed-out by some very careful filing/fine sandpaper/polishing. In my experience, the inside of the action can be a little rough, and such roughness tends to collect dirt. A careful smoothing-out of the inside of the receiver can be beneficial. By this I mean where the inside of the receiver and the bolt interface, for the most part. NOT the inside of the rails on which the bolt rides, just the top of the bolt and the inside of the top of the receiver. Other parts will show some wear, and that is where some attention might be paid. .22RF ammo semi-autos run pretty dirty, so anything you can do to prevent the accumulation of crud within the rifle's action will be worthwhile. Some folks run thousands of rounds through them, and claim the rifle is better than new. Probably so, as the extended use has worn-in all the parts to one another over time. Another way to do it is to run 500 or so rounds through the rifle, observe the obvious wear points, address them, and save a lot of ammo. Your call. Good luck to you! If I can help in the future, I'll be glad to do so, and I'm certain I speak for many folks here, as well. |
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[#19]
The factory steel bolt stop pin is a PATENTED rate reducer.
Its hole is drilled slightly off center from the radius on the back of the bolt to specifically slow down the bolt. |
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[#20]
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The factory steel bolt stop pin is a PATENTED rate reducer. Its hole is drilled slightly off center from the radius on the back of the bolt to specifically slow down the bolt. View Quote I believe it. I shot the LVT again yesterday without one jam with the factory pin. The rubber buffers are not good. |
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[#21]
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I believe it. I shot the LVT again yesterday without one jam with the factory pin. The rubber buffers are not good. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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The factory steel bolt stop pin is a PATENTED rate reducer. Its hole is drilled slightly off center from the radius on the back of the bolt to specifically slow down the bolt. I believe it. I shot the LVT again yesterday without one jam with the factory pin. The rubber buffers are not good. I'm going to suggest there are literally thousands of 10/22 shooters using those soft buffers as well as other aftermarket brands without any issues. In the 10/22 world there is probably two things most experienced shooters do to their guns and that's replace the bolt buffer(which you did initially) and change the factory extractor. I suspect you have other issues that need to be looked at. I realize the steel buffer seems to work better in your gun but it's highly doubtful the Kidd buffer is the real culprit. Just an FYI since you're a newbie with the 10/22. You might try applying a Scotchbrite pad and clp to the inside of your receiver. Smoothing things out a little. Overspray can be an issue on the inside of the 10/22 receiver. |
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[#22]
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I'm going to suggest there are literally thousands of 10/22 shooters using those soft buffers as well as other aftermarket brands without any issues. In the 10/22 world there is probably two things most experienced shooters do to their guns and that's replace the bolt buffer(which you did initially) and change the factory extractor. I suspect you have other issues that need to be looked at. I realize the steel buffer seems to work better in your gun but it's highly doubtful the Kidd buffer is the real culprit. Just an FYI since you're a newbie with the 10/22. You might try applying a Scotchbrite pad and clp to the inside of your receiver. Smoothing things out a little. Overspray can be an issue on the inside of the 10/22 receiver. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Quoted:
The factory steel bolt stop pin is a PATENTED rate reducer. Its hole is drilled slightly off center from the radius on the back of the bolt to specifically slow down the bolt. I believe it. I shot the LVT again yesterday without one jam with the factory pin. The rubber buffers are not good. I'm going to suggest there are literally thousands of 10/22 shooters using those soft buffers as well as other aftermarket brands without any issues. In the 10/22 world there is probably two things most experienced shooters do to their guns and that's replace the bolt buffer(which you did initially) and change the factory extractor. I suspect you have other issues that need to be looked at. I realize the steel buffer seems to work better in your gun but it's highly doubtful the Kidd buffer is the real culprit. Just an FYI since you're a newbie with the 10/22. You might try applying a Scotchbrite pad and clp to the inside of your receiver. Smoothing things out a little. Overspray can be an issue on the inside of the 10/22 receiver. It is strange that the two times I put buffers in 10-22s both of them ceased to run right and after putting the factory pin in, they ran 100%. I know many people use the buffers. It may be that in my case there was enough tolerance stacking to cause the problem. The all rubber buffer made the gun neither cock the hammer nor pick up the next round out of the mag. I think the reason the Kidd buffer has the steel core is the get some of the bounce out of the buffer. It almost worked but I was getting jams almost every mag. The 10-22 is a tube gun like a Sten or grease gun. It is just a bolt and spring in a square piece of pipe. It is hard to mess that up. As long as a gun is working and shooting well I'm not going to mess with it. I still have the Kidd buffer so I may try it in a different gun for kicks. |
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[#23]
I don't disagree that a thorough cleaning of your 10-22 is in order. As he mentioned, the paint that Ruger uses now can overspray into the interior of the receiver, and must be removed for reliability's sake. His suggestion of removing the paint, and then smoothing/polishing out the inside of the top of the receiver--as well as the top of the bolt-- is advice well worth heeding.
I have used an orange-colored plastic bolt buffer/stop since right after I polished the inside top of my receiver and top of the bolt. Never had a problem. Just stay away from the surfaces on which the bolt rides. It's not outside the realm of possibility that your bolt might be a little misshapen in some way. since you have other 10-22s, try another bolt in the "problem" rifle, along with the plastic buffer. See what happens. the main thing is that you have gotten your rifle to function properly, and haven't spend a dime. That's a success story. |
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[#24]
I find this very interesting and proof that every rifle is different. I replaced the factory bolt buffer right out of the box along with dropping in a BX trigger group (highly polished by me) and have yet to have a stoppage after thousands of rounds. I use only CCI ammo though. I went that route after my other 10/22 stopped jamming when switching to it. Glad you got it worked out and it's a great shooter. My dad always told me, "If it ain't broke, don't fix it!"
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[#25]
I have run all my 10/22's and in fact just about all my firearms stock from the box and in 40 years of shooting can count on one hand with spare fingers the number of guns that needed work to run. I stand by my previous comments of if it works leave it be.
I have gone through 4 10/22's in my time and eve after tens of thousands of rounds can say they were field stripped for cleaning perhaps once every few years. More because I felt I should not because of any degradation in function |
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[#26]
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I have run all my 10/22's and in fact just about all my firearms stock from the box and in 40 years of shooting can count on one hand with spare fingers the number of guns that needed work to run. I stand by my previous comments of if it works leave it be. I have gone through 4 10/22's in my time and eve after tens of thousands of rounds can say they were field stripped for cleaning perhaps once every few years. More because I felt I should not because of any degradation in function View Quote There is a lot of truth to that. I never liked 10-22s or automatic rifles in general until lately. I like to control when my gun chambers a round instead of it doing it every time I shoot. I am really a lever gun person for hunting. Many years ago I met a guy who would turn out to be my greatest lifetime hunting and fishing partner. At that time he had a 10-22 he had owned for about 20 years. He was an avid coon hunter so the gun had a Bushnell scope, broken front sight, reflective tape on the stock so it could be found in the dark, and had never been cleaned despite hard use and often getting wet. It still worked then and is still working now. I did spoon the 20 years of sludge out of it though. Bone stock and neglected if not abused. Still chugging along. |
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[#27]
Like everyone else said, get a Volquartsen.
I had the same problem on a MK III and the volquartsen extractor worked great in that My 10/22 has a Kidd bolt in it and it came with the Kidd extractor. Either the Volquartsen or the Kidd will fix that issue. |
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