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Posted: 7/23/2016 8:54:21 PM EDT
[#1]
If I had to go anywhere I'd grab my 10/22 take-down.
It's stainless. I put tech sights and a bx trigger in it Fits in some tight spots. One day I'd like to have the barrel threaded. |
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Posted: 7/23/2016 9:47:48 PM EDT
[#2]
I'd get stainless. I have an old (20+ years), blued 10/22 that is awesome and not a rust spot on it.. My 4 year old ruger 22/45 and newer blued 10/22 will rust if you look at it sideways.
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Posted: 7/23/2016 10:25:12 PM EDT
[#3]
It all depends on what you're after. I started with a Tactical Machining receiver. Integral rail, tighter tolerances, etc. I ended up with an extremely tight receiver to barrel fit with the tactical solutions sb-x barrel. The sb-x barrel also saved me some length suppressed.
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Posted: 7/23/2016 11:25:15 PM EDT
[#4]
Ive never seen anything break on a 10/22 from use. I'd probably get a couple extractors, extractor springs, plunger, firing pin. You can get extra trigger assemblies for like $40 on EE, and that would cover anything that could really go wrong with the rifle. I broke an aluminum V block once probably by tightening it too tight, so replace those with steel.
As far as your build, or configuration. Heh that's limited by your imagination. If you plan on replacing the factory bbl and stock there's a place that sells just a Ruger reciever/bolt/trigger assembly for like $160.Link |
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Posted: 7/24/2016 3:18:52 AM EDT
[#5]
10/22 takedown in stainless with threaded barrel. A little hard to find with the black stock. Easier to find with camo stock
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Posted: 7/24/2016 7:09:06 AM EDT
[#6]
Magazines wear out a lot quicker than other types. load up on them. Probably would not hurt to have a few bolt rebuild kits, and maybe a spare bolt.
I have never had anything wear out on 1022 rifles besides the magazines. but I always keep a spare rebuild kit. I always keep a spare barrel and stock too. Never bent a barrel or broke a stock, but it can happen. |
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Posted: 7/24/2016 2:52:52 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Ive never seen anything break on a 10/22 from use. I'd probably get a couple extractors, extractor springs, plunger, firing pin. You can get extra trigger assemblies for like $40 on EE, and that would cover anything that could really go wrong with the rifle. I broke an aluminum V block once probably by tightening it too tight, so replace those with steel. As far as your build, or configuration. Heh that's limited by your imagination. If you plan on replacing the factory bbl and stock there's a place that sells just a Ruger reciever/bolt/trigger assembly for like $160.Link Out of stock. 
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Posted: 7/24/2016 11:21:07 PM EDT
[#8]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Out of stock. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Ive never seen anything break on a 10/22 from use. I'd probably get a couple extractors, extractor springs, plunger, firing pin. You can get extra trigger assemblies for like $40 on EE, and that would cover anything that could really go wrong with the rifle. I broke an aluminum V block once probably by tightening it too tight, so replace those with steel. As far as your build, or configuration. Heh that's limited by your imagination. If you plan on replacing the factory bbl and stock there's a place that sells just a Ruger reciever/bolt/trigger assembly for like $160.Link Out of stock. Oops sorry I didnt notice. |
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Posted: 7/25/2016 5:40:37 PM EDT
[#9]
Personally, if these are just for SHTF, I'd go for the Marlin/Glenfield model 60's or 75's. Tube magazine, so nothing sticking out the bottom (small profile), lots and lots made (availability of parts), cheap (like $100 or so used). Buy a few and keep one for extra parts. My choice for a "hand out" rifle or plinker. As simple as they get.
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Posted: 7/27/2016 11:18:13 AM EDT
[#10]
A 10 round 10/22 mag is flush fitting too, and if you drop your tube fed gun on the tube and bend it badly, you're screwed.
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Posted: 7/27/2016 8:02:00 PM EDT
[#11]
Personally I would go with a stainless synthetic model. Strap a pouch on the stock that has a few small tools, lube, a rebuild kit, and a few (3-4 10rd mags) X2
Buy enough small parts to rebuild both of them and (springs, extractor, firing pin, and maybe a few extra charging handles.) If you upgrade the trigger packs, toss the old ones in with the parts kits. |
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Posted: 7/29/2016 6:57:22 PM EDT
[#12]
I would get a few charging handle assemblies with the recoil spring attached,along with the above mentioned spare parts
They can wear out or break over time. Lots of cheap parts on ebay from folks parting out complete rifles |
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Posted: 7/30/2016 9:04:31 AM EDT
[#13]
Everybody has their own notion of what a SHTF scenario would look like but I think light, compact and quiet are must haves for any SHTF 10/22.
If I was going to build a 10/22 for that purpose, my ideal rifle would have a Hogue nylon stock (not the overmold version) with a Gemtech Mist suppressed barrel. and I would carry it in a scabbard strapped to the side of my back pack. I would only use the 10/22 for taking small game or as a "lights out" gun. I would still use my AR and side arm as my primary defensive weapons. Many will tell you for a SHTF 10/22, you need the take down version so you can tuck it away and hide it in your backpack? For me, a SHTF scenario where you need to worry about hiding your weapons probably isn't really a SHTF scenario at all but opinions vary? "SHTF" could mean a million different things so there really isn't any one setup that would be perfect for all of them. I just know that if I'm using the 10/22 as a survival weapon, I'm going to want to be able to deploy it quickly, not have to stop, take my back off, dig it out and put it together. ETA - There is also a strong argument to be made that a bolt action rifle, especially something like the Ruger American that use BX mags, might be a better option for a survival rifle as opposed to a 10/22? |
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Posted: 7/30/2016 9:25:13 AM EDT
[#14]
Marlin 60 with about 5 136 round speed d loaders (sp)...ass load of quick loading fire power.
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Posted: 7/30/2016 12:12:29 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Magazines wear out a lot quicker than other types. load up on them. Probably would not hurt to have a few bolt rebuild kits, and maybe a spare bolt. I have never had anything wear out on 1022 rifles besides the magazines. but I always keep a spare rebuild kit. I always keep a spare barrel and stock too. Never bent a barrel or broke a stock, but it can happen. That's interesting, My 45 year old magazine is still going strong, it is the original that came with the rifle when my Dad gave it to me and I have never done anything to it, I have never even taken it apart. 
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Posted: 7/30/2016 5:18:16 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I would get a few charging handle assemblies with the recoil spring attached,along with the above mentioned spare parts They can wear out or break over time. Lots of cheap parts on ebay from folks parting out complete rifles I'd buy the Kidd charging handle its significantly better. |
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Posted: 8/2/2016 5:49:33 PM EDT
[#17]
I see a few recommendations to get "stainless" rifles. It's a waste if you plan on changing the barrel, as the receiver is still aluminium.(unless you aren't paying extra for the "stainless" model)
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Posted: 8/2/2016 7:03:39 PM EDT
[#18]
I like non-stainless. Stainless is very easy to spot.. On top of that, the stainles version is needlessly 2" longer at 18" where the blued one is 16"
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Posted: 8/2/2016 7:27:20 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I like non-stainless. Stainless is very easy to spot.. On top of that, the stainles version is needlessly 2" longer at 18" where the blued one is 16" Wat? |
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Posted: 8/2/2016 7:33:27 PM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I like non-stainless. Stainless is very easy to spot.. On top of that, the stainles version is needlessly 2" longer at 18" where the blued one is 16" Bro, the standard 10-22 barrel is 18 inches long. |
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Posted: 8/2/2016 8:42:26 PM EDT
[#21]
The standard Ruger 10/22 Carbine comes with an 18.5" barrel.
http://www.ruger.com/products/1022Carbine/specSheets/1103.html |
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Posted: 8/3/2016 7:37:39 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Bro, the standard 10-22 barrel is 18 inches long. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I like non-stainless. Stainless is very easy to spot.. On top of that, the stainles version is needlessly 2" longer at 18" where the blued one is 16" Bro, the standard 10-22 barrel is 18 inches long. Oops. I just bought my dad a 10-22 Takedown. I was thinking about Takedowns for some reason. |
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Posted: 8/5/2016 6:28:45 PM EDT
[#23]
If you want a threaded barrel for your 10/22 TD, watch for these to come back in stock. Replacement Barrel
I just put one on my stainless TD to use the can I finally picked up last week. I wasn't a big fan of losing the iron sights at first but I always had a hard time seeing the little brass bead front sight anyways. I picked up a $85 UTG Bugbuster scope from Amazon instead. The barrel fit perfect, it took about 5 minutes to swap out. It is more accurate than the stock barrel by a little bit, and I don't mind the blued barrel with the stainless receiver. It is a couple inches shorter than the original barrel too which is nice with the can. 
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Posted: 8/24/2016 11:34:51 AM EDT
[#24]
So I got a pretty much base synthetic blued one in good shape with very light surface rust on the barrel for $100 FTF? Did I do okay?
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Posted: 8/24/2016 6:23:24 PM EDT
[#25]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Personally, if these are just for SHTF, I'd go for the Marlin/Glenfield model 60's or 75's. Tube magazine, so nothing sticking out the bottom (small profile), lots and lots made (availability of parts), cheap (like $100 or so used). Buy a few and keep one for extra parts. My choice for a "hand out" rifle or plinker. As simple as they get. They're good rifles, but a damaged tube, which is not hard to do, puts the rifle into single-shot mode. I like stainless steel for ease of maintenance. If the somewhat bright finish bothers you, then de-grease and paint with Brownell's Aluma Hyde II, available in a number of colors. Very durable, if the surface is prepared properly. I think a larger bolt handle is required if using gloves. I used a 10-22 Mag bolt handle (now unobtainable) but there are others. My only caution about buying used 10-22s is that the previous user might have been a little careless in cleaning technique, and might have possibly damaged the rifling at the very end of the muzzle. Slight damage is hard to see, unless one uses magnification, and knows what to look for. OTOH, it is easy to get 10-22 barrels. My 10-22 has been set up with an Amega Ranges Scout scope mount as it is a stand-in for rifles which are more expensive to shoot. I added Tech-Sights to it, and they work very well, and do not interfere with using the Burris Scout scope. The Tech-Sight winged (and so protected) front sight is very easy to use and adjust. http://amegamounts.com/product_pages/ruger1022.php See my thread pinned atop 10-22 forum for specific parts suggestions. While there are certainly other alternatives to many of the parts I suggested in the thread, I can't think of any regrets about my choices. BTW, I recently installed my 10-22 into a Butler Creek side-folding stock. No regrets about that either. I had my gunsmith silver-solder a standard sling lug on the bottom of the folding buttstock, which allows a standard shooting sling to be used. In addition, I installed s side-mounted lug onto the shooter's left side of the stock, which allows the rifle to be slung while folded. QD sling swivels, of course, so that things can be changed easily. |
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Posted: 8/25/2016 4:09:18 AM EDT
[#26]
IMHO, it depends on whether you're doing the full-on rebuild (i.e., new barrel and stock) or looking for something usable out-of-the-box.
If you're doing a rebuild, either buy the cheapest model you can as the only thing you're probably going to re-use is the receiver, bolt, and trigger housing. Or cruise your local pawn shops looking to find one with a rusted barrel and/or beat up stock. It's hard to destroy a 10/22 receiver. If you're looking to buy one already "finished", then you really can't go far wrong with any of them. I will say that the "compact" really, really is that. I have one with an optic, and most adult men have a h3ll of a time trying to get any sort of mount with a cheekweld, even with the scope all the way forward. |
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Posted: 8/26/2016 9:24:36 AM EDT
[#27]
Other than an extractor assembly I'd get some extra action pins.
They are the thing you are most likely to loose if you take the gun apart in the field to clean. |
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