After researching for a while I finally purchased a Brother sc6000i for making gear. Yes, I know that this sewing machine is not ideal but I don't want to drop a grand on a machine until I think I will continue doing this as a hobby. I am testing the waters.

I also ordered some 500d cordura, 1" edging, 1" elastic, mesh, thin rip stop nylon for lining, 1" webbing and buckles, Velcro, #18 needles, #69 thread, shock cord,  and a 1" swing away edge binder attachment for the brother sewing machine. I probably need to get some cloth glue or spray for tacking and some small gater clips, and maybe some sort of padding/fill for shoulder straps and backing for packs later on.

I have some experience in hand sewing so I understand the concept but have never used a machine. My first projects will be a couple of pouches and a beavertail attachment for my Mystery Ranch ASAP pack (MR discontinued their "stick-it" beavertail).

What else would you guys suggest I might need? Any recommended reading?

I think I might be going down the rabbit hole with a new addiction. Every piece of gear I have picked up in the last few weeks I find myself backwards engineering it in my mind and trying to visualize how it was sewn together!!!

Thanks!!

Get a hot knife for cutting your nylon...it will keep the edges from fraying.

Instead of cloth glue or spray for tacking, you can hold several layer of nylon together using a needle-point wood burning tip (or a needle tip for the hot knife).  Place the items together and touch the edge with the hot tip to hold them together.  This also works for holding webbing in position before sewing.


ETA: Hot knife is not necessary for cutting coated nylon cloth (such as coated parapack).

Other handy items:

Basting tape

Hotglue gun

Chalk pencils

This seems like it would be a good way to get some custom gear that's not really made up. I would do some pouches for the otherwise useless nooks and crannies in my truck, along with probably a holster wall for the inside of my safe(s)

A nice, flat, large table to lay everything out on and work on.

Seems obvious but it's one of those things you just don't think of. Mom turned my room into a sewing room when I moved out. The table took up a quarter of the room and still was constantly covered.

Agreed.  An 8'x4' formica-topped table is a must.  And if you're cutting with a hot-knife, slide a smaller piece of formica under the piece you are cutting so you don't mar the main table surface.

Great suggestions so far! Thanks!

I assume you have tons of the little pins from hand sewing, cordura requires ones that are a little tougher because it's more puncture resistant.

I have some but will get more sturdy pins. I will probably use the small gator clips more than pins.

Use this for materials and techniques references (chapters 3, 6, and 7):

FAA Parachute Rigger's Handbook (.pdf)

Yeah, damn...been a long time but that's about the size she used iirc. She had tons of high dollar shit. Dad bought her only the best. She had sewing machines that cost more than used cars lol.

RIP . Death takes all the good people and leaves us with the turds it seems like sometimes.

My first successful project was a small pack, took a lot of time, but I learned a lot about zippers and pals webbing.  I have posted some pictures in another thread about making your own gear.

Another one that might help is one of those magnifier lights.

I don't know the technical name but they have a magnifier and a nice bright light either surroundingvthe glass or right by it somewhere and it's on one of those arms that has multiple points where it can move and be secured to stay.

A nice big one. Quite useful for a lot of things actually.

You may not "need" one since you're working in a tad bigger stitching than normal but watching her I still think it might help.

Sorry I wish I remembered more. It's been almost six years now since I saw it and obviously she sewed different things than you plan too.

ETA:  oh and good scissors. Any cheap scissors you buy will wear out quickly. Especially with the fabric you'll be using.  Don't be afraid to buy a decent set from a place like Joanne fabric. My mom lived there. You know when you're looking at the right scissors when you can't just grab them because they are locked in a case due to the cost lol.

Just a friendly FYI, don't expect this to be cheap. Like I said my dad hooked my mom up and found out when she died she still had a $7000 cc bill that was almost entirely sewing related.

This machine will maybe last a little while doing flat work, but not multiple folded layers of Cordura, especially with Type 69 thread.

Type 69 will eat that machine alive from the inside out.  Tension won't handle it well, and it will eventually pull off timing in the gears.

A lot of the household machines nowadays have plastic components inside the articulating mechanisms that will bear stress with military-grade fabrics.

I only buy older all-metal machines for light duty work for this reason, and have several of them.  The modern machines crap the bed quickly.

Expect a steep learning curve. And you need a hefty machine to sew gear.

Thanks. I am fully aware of its limitations. I spoke with some people that had one and also watched some videos of it in action and the consensus was it does alright for a few layers of 500D cordura which is what I will be using mainly. Obviously I could spend  more time or money searching for a more robust machine but like I said, I am testing the waters. If I think I will pursue this hobby further I will be upgrading. I will be heading across the pond in a few months so I have time to think about it and some tax free pay to upgrade if I choose.

The steep learning curves are what draws me to things like this. Years ago I learned photography and graphic design with Photoshop and illustrator. A few years later it was other things involving spirits. Then a few years ago I started making knives which supplements my hobbies. If it didn't have a steep learning curve I probably wouldn't bother doing it.

Say i do decide to pursue this hobby further. What is a good machine under $500 that will do this kind of work? Yes, I know, I need to up my budget. But lets say I had $500. What machine would you get for $500?

A used sailrite.

I found my Brother DB755 for $250 on Craigslist so deals are out there. There is plenty of stuff you can make with your current machine though. Just watch the fabric thickness in the corners of your projects. Layers tend to stack up there.

Check out  sellers on eBay that deal with cordura that are factory seconds. Good to practice with. Good luck and be careful with your rotary cutter if you have one. Good way to get 3 stitches in your finger.

Thanks. I was eyeballing some Sailrites.

I will keep my eyes open for deals. I will be limiting my designs to designs that don't have too many layers for the reasons you have stated. I plan on keeping it simple for now, and sticking with 500D and under.

An older HH machine with metal gears will punch 4-6 layers of 500d plus a layer or two of webbing, but you sacrifice uniform stitch length over varying subject thicknesses.    Shorter stitches as you climb an edge seam with AA-55301 thickness webbing, then longer as it goes downhill, often too long.   

Rockywoods.com is my standby for small qty yardage Multicam, webbing and velcros.

Textile Specialist on ebay is excellent source for genuine Corduras and various camo patterns/fabrics, I use him a lot, especially for Tan499 500d, he'll make you a deal on multiple items/yardage quantity if you ask:
http://www.viglink.com/shop?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.viglink.com%2Fshop&ca=54582&cp=1659178&c=j14lh0ml6j00zk8a04mjk<=&ou=http%3A%2F%2Fstores.ebay.com%2FTextile-Specialist-Direct%2FCAMOUFLAGE-CAMO-FABRICS-%2F_i.html?_fsub=5643353018&_sid=77148748&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

RRT Trading Post is also good:  http://www.viglink.com/shop?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.viglink.com%2Fshop&ca=54582&cp=1659178&c=j14lh0n6vr00zk8a04mjk<=&ou=http%3A%2F%2Fstores.ebay.com%2Frrt-trading-post%2FMilitary-Camouflage-%2F_i.html?_fsub=4492859010&_sid=1158892250&_trksid=p4634.c0.m322

Just starting out, for solid color  various width/spec or AOR1 1" AA-55301-spec webbing, this guy is good for 5yd, 10yd, 100ft sections at decent prices:
http://www.viglink.com/shop?url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.viglink.com%2Fshop&ca=54582&cp=1659178&c=j14lh0ny0j00zk8a04mjk<=&ou=http%3A%2F%2Fstores.ebay.com%2Foutdoorcamoconnection%2F

For hook and loop, non-berry compliant, Ranger Green, Coyote, Olive, Black etc in various widths by the roll:
http://hookandloop.com/

For Berry-compliant, especially Tan499 match to Multicam velcro by the roll:
http://www.industrialwebbing.com/military-hook-and-loop/

For wholesale pricing on hardware, thread, cordage, elastic etc, www.lowyusa.com and www.geraldschwartzinc.com   and for small quantity US and other source plastic and metal hardware, etc www.store.jontay.com although pricey.  

For genuine ITW Nexus plastic and metal hardware, not in 1000pc minimums direct from ITW, I use Hudson even though it ships from Canada, he has ITW hardware you can't find in the US unless you order in the 1000pc min quantities from ITW.
 http://www.hudson4supplies.com/plastic/defense-security.html
http://www.hudson4supplies.com/metal-hardware/metal-defense.html

FOr kydex forming supplies as well as some ITW metal and plastic hardware at good prices small quantity, and Scovil grommets and Durable Dot snaps:
https://www.ifithermoplastics.com/

I've been in the industry for over 18 years now, somehow made it into a profession and now run the R&D department.

From my experience it pays to get the right tools and don't go too cheap or you will end up spending more money later.
A good set of sharp scissors, snips, and something nice and sharp to cut threads as you will make mistakes starting out, hell I still make mistakes and use a surgical scalpel to pop the stitches.

Check auction sites for decent used heavy duty machines and materials, that helped us a long time ago to get where we are now.

Also for reference, when I started I barely knew how to thread the needle on my machine :)

THANK YOU

I only have a speedy stitcher but tips and tricks always help

I have MR style stick it beaver tail pouches.  message me........

As I sit here ordering pouches for my new pack, this thread has peaked my interest. What's a good heavy duty sewing machine for say $1500 or so? My wife makes dresses for people for Ren Fairs and is pretty good operating the equipment. She has made a few things for me using 1000D Cordura, but her machines aren't really set up for that. What would you guys recommend?

I got a used singer industrial machine for 450, it's a cast iron tank and can punch through anything.  It's from the 60's and all I have to do is change the oil.  Weighs about 200+ pounds with the table and motor.

Keep an eye out, deals are there.

Also keep a lookout on Craigslist for consew 206's or an equivalent juki. First upgrade you should do is a servo motor with a needle positioner it is a night and day difference on usability and precision.

Juki walking foot

My main Juki is so heavy duty, I only use it for final binding and heavy multi-layer jobs when finishing up pouches.

I use lighter duty machines for flat work.

In my experience, there is no single machine to do everything I need to do for tactical gear.

My Juki 1541-S would shred light duty work, whereas the light duty machines are not cut out for binding, sewing through harness or ruck straps, multiple layers of Cordura and webbing, etc.

You will destroy a household machine on pouches with MOLLE webbing when you do final assembly, unless you are using an old Pfaff all metal German goodness, or the like.  We have 2 of those.  My wife has a lot of her own projects she sews too, like leather shoes for the kids, dolls, quilts, clothes, you name it.

Haven't gotten her to do any of my gear yet.  Raising 3 little ones is priority.

This guy knows what he is talking about. You really want a Juki DNU-1541, and be sure to get the one with the timing reset button on the base. Lighter machines might seem like they're handling the task at first but they really aren't. Before you know it, the timing is getting knocked out constantly, parts are getting slack, and your machine is ruined.

It takes a lot of machine to continually push through two layers of webbing and a few layers of Cordura, which you'll be doing when making gear. I can't stress the following enough: even if the lighter machines seem like they're doing fine because it sewed for a minute or two, you will regret it in a short time and it will cost you more money than buying the right machine in the first place.

The Juki 1541, which I also have, really is the perfect machine for what you're trying to do. Top of the line quality, very high clearance under the foot, and won't shit the bed after ten minutes of heavy work.

But even the Juki doesn't do everything, when it comes to tactical sewing.

It won't take me long to decide if I will upgrade so buying a cheap machine to test the waters isn't going to cost me more in the long run as even if I do upgrade that machine be used for other things ass well.

I do see what your saying and I understand that if I do continue this hobby and sew a lot with it that the machine will eventually end up wrecked. But, that was never my intentions. I will either make a few things and decide I don't like it or decide I do like it and buy a heavy duty machine next year.

I am not dropping $500-$1000 on a peice of equipment to start something that I don't know I will even like.

Its just like when I started ed making knives people kept saying that I really needed to buy a $2000 grinder and by buying a $500 grinder I was just throwing my money away. Boy were they wrong.

Thanks for the replies. I will get quality scissors and itwms tems and I will keep my eyes open for a used singer or juki if I decide to pursue this hobby furthur.

Now I am committed to making my own and I have a pretty good idea in my head for it. Thanks though.

OK I will weight in with some a few things I've learned over the years.  There are many ways of doing things.  Here is my take.  I use cheap scissors.  Buy a bunch, use them, get some more.  But I sew with used industrial machines.  I have found that sewing with something in the low to mid-range of it's capabilities, is more conducive to your sanity and all-around happiness, than trying to push something at the edge of it's capabilities.  I hear what you're saying about a budget, but good used industrials are usually cheaper than mid to high-end plastic machines in retail stores.  Funny but true.  The Juki mentioned above would be a good one.  Personally I use a Mitsubushi DB-130GM but I suppose that's in the stone-ages these days.  With a budget of say 500 simolians I think you should be able to find a decent machine.  And then you can sew 1,000D.  

500D is OK, if you are concerned with saving weight, or it's all you can find in that pattern, etc. but consider using 1,000D until you know what you're doing.  Buy some cheap stuff on ebay.  Take good but beat to shit gear apart.  Make patterns.  Try making it yourself.  It's not all that hard; it's mostly about attention to detail, and sequencing things right.  The stiffer mat'l will be more forgiving, allowing you to get yourself sorted out without shredding the lighter mat'l.  When you're an artist with 1,000D then consider dropping down to lighter stuff.

There is a good reason to stick with no. 69 or "E" nylon bonded thread.  It's really fucking good!  Realize that size "E" thread is used throughout parachute systems.  And yes I have repaired/made/packed/jumped them.  This thread has the best strength to weight ratio of any other size and type.  If you stick with it your kit will be so much more durable.  

To really make the best use of this thread, a good industrial machine is required.  I have found that a #18 needle is the bare minimum for this kind of work.  A # 21-23 is really the sweet spot for most applications.  So with a no. 21 needle, and "E" thread, and a machine capable of pulling it thorough cordura and webbing, with good lock-up, you now have the basic essentials to do good work.  

On a new(er) machine the clutch may be a bit stiff.  Try running a bungee from side post to treadle, to other side post, creating a giant return spring.  This will help you control cracking pressure.  Also I remove all gaurds and rest my hand on top of the upper pulley to control speed.  Be carfeul here, as my machine is so worn in I can basically control it stich by stich.  It make take a little work for you to get to that point.  

Because we run so heavy top tension, try this little trick.  When you time your machine, set the hook scarf to just deflect the needle as it passes.  When the machine is running, under tension, the needle will deflect slightly creating the proper gap.  If you already have a gap, this will result in a lot of skipped stitches.  And motherfucking.  

Don't be afraid to walk the machine through by hand as you get started in this thing, or really any other time you are sewing intricate and/or heavy build-ups.  Your not doing commercial work or being paid by the piece.  Take your time and get the stitch pattern straight.

Speaking of which, with size "E" thread, you want approx. 5-6 STI (stitches per inch) for most work.  Yes that seems like a lot, but that's about optimum for strength in most applications.  Measure it until you get used to what that looks like.

Stitch patterns.  When joining webbing and flat goods, i.e. cordura, use a "box-X" pattern.  For example 1" webbing to 1,000D cordura, size "E" thread, 5-6 STI, in a box-X pattern of at least 7/8" square.  Overlap stop and start.  This will give you approx. 500lb test joint.

I used Poynter's Parachute Manual, Vol I.  Sandy Reid's new manual written for the FAA is also good.  The materials, machines, tools, and techniques used in parachute rigging are a directly applicable to what we do in tac gear.  I use these standards as a base line for my work.  Very hard to find anything else about sewing this stuff.  

Good luck!

I brought a sewing machine to Iraq in 2004.  My callsign was Combat Martha Stewart.  I made (in retrospect, some pretty shitty) slings that I sold to just about my entire Battalion. 

I ran the R&D department for a parachute company.  Good info in this post.

When learning stitch patterns, use a 6-inch metal ruler and a chalk pencil to lightly draw the pattern out on the material before sewing it. It'll look nicer and be less confusing while you sew.

Thanks for all the replies and helpful info. I searched and got a good deal on a sailrite knockoff. A few hundred bucks. I am selling my brother locally. I didn't even sew a stitch with the brother, and figured I would be dissapointed if I did. The new machine is a portable walking foot with straight stich and zigzag, 3/8" under the foot. It will take a little tuning but i think it will be a good machine to test the wayers with. If i like it i will probaby uparade to a sailrite.

I hope I will get to try it out in the next few weeks.

Stay tuned!

I'm not familiar with the Sailrite, but being portable, build yourself a small table that it is even with the throat plate in order to give yourself a nice flat surface to support your work as you sew.

There it is right there.  Having a flush-mounted table is huge.  A "U" (or at least "L")-shaped even better.  

The Sailrites are cool, and very portable, but unless you have an external motor w/belt drive, your machine really doesn't have enough ass to do good work, esp in the heavy build-ups.  Strictly my opinion, I have seen beautiful work done with lighter machines, but again, staying in the lower to mid-range of a machine, just how I roll.

Again, no shit, chalking in your pattern, especially on webbing makes a big difference.  You'd be surprised how shit smears and rolls as you sew.  Especially with heavy presser foot pressure.

OK, say a man was thinking about doing what ole Smithy is doing.

Which would be the better machine:

Brother model DB2-B755-3 straight stitch power table sewing machine.

or

Singer 241-12

or

Singer 241-11

Also, where would one learn about oiling the thing properly?

@Diz - @LRRPF52 - @RBarker - @KaiK

I am sure there are better machines out there but for a 1/3 of the cost of a sailrite machine the rex that I got is great. It takes some finesse with the foot pedal but it is a little workhorse. So far I have went through 6 layers of 500d cordura with no problem. Also tested 3 layers of webbing with no problem. I have a larger wheel/pulley setup on the way to slow it down and help manage the speed.

Next weekend I am going to try to do a small messenger bag and maybe some pouches.

The best part is all the replacement parts for the sailrite will work for this!

I watched a few Vids on oiling, threading, and tension that were very helpful.

Eventually I may spring for a sailrite but for now this will work just fine. If I get a sailrite I can set this one up as a dedicated machine for welting or installing zippers.

I am not to familiar with machines but a few of my criteria were I wanted portable, straight stich and zigzag, and availability of aftermarket parts.

If I eventually upgrade to a sailrite all my add ons and accessories will work on the sailright.

Definitely the Brother DB2.  The Singers are really 1st gen stuff.  I like them just for the sentimental value since I learned on them.  Otherwise, I'd stick with the 2d and 3d gen copies, such as Mitsubushi, Juki, Brother, and others.

That Brother is the same model basically as my Mitsu, and the Jukis, and others that followed.  First they were copied in Japan, then China, then wherever.

Anyways, the parts, n needles and such are all interchangeable, since they were all built to use the pre-existing infrastructure.  You just need to get a line on a good industrial supply house.  

Don't worry about anything but the machine head.  As long as it's straight and working, the table can be re-built, and the motor replaced.

On oiling, pretty simple really.  Oil everything!  If it looks like it needs oil, oil it.  I would oil the shit out of my machines.  The only thing that will destroy your industrial is running it dry.  

Take all the covers off.  Run it through by hand.  See all those parts moving?  Oil every joint where it articulates.  Flip it up.  See all those shafts?  Oil every bearing or journal.  Oil the bobbin case seat.

When I worked in the industry, a sewing machine operator would be fired for not oiling their machine every morning.    

Your other enemy is lint.  Keep the thread pathways clean.  Ditto for bobbin case, feed dogs, etc.  When changing thread, cut at cone, knot new thread on, and pull it through the top tension system.  The knot will clean out the lint in the tension discs and what-not.  Make a cover, and cover the machine when not in use.

Be meticulous about that shit.  As in all machinery, if you take care of it, it will out-last you.  My Mitsu is approx. 60 years old and still running, well like a sewing machine.