I’ve seen a lot of posts recently on various sites regarding ballistic vests, what is concealable and what isn’t, what weighs a lot, best carriers for the money, etc.  I’m new to these forums but, I’ve got a good bit of experience in dealing with body armor and I thought maybe I’d throw my two cents into the ring.  I’m posting it to this forum mostly because I like this place the most and actually paid for a membership here and want to contribute.  Take what you will from it, or don’t, it’s your money and your life.  

I looked through the provided links in the tactical gear “LOOK HERE FIRST” thread and couldn’t find a detailed body armor information post.


NIJ Standards

First thing, let’s talk about NIJ standards.  

Any vest you are looking to buy should carry an NIJ rating, if it doesn’t, be wary.  Remember, NIJ is a voluntary standard and it isn’t required that a vest be NIJ rated to be sold.  NIJ ratings give you an idea of what kind of protection is offered for a vest. I’m going to use the word “level” rather than “type” because most people will understand this terminology better.

Each rating level specifies what particular qualities a round must possess for use in the test.  For example, a new Level IIA vest “shall be” tested with 9mm FMJ at 124 grains and a velocity of 1,225 ft/s.  You can check out the all the specifics here.  NIJ ratings begin at Level IIA and go to Level IV.

“Soft” Armor Levels
Level IIA vests are tested using 9mm and .40 S&W.  Level II is tested using 9mm and .357 SIG.  Level IIIA vests are tested using .357 SIG and .44 Magnum.  Not every round imaginable is tested.  Some rounds that could be considered “pistol” (using the term loosely here) rounds aren’t tested and have been shown to penetrate soft body armor.

“Hard” Armor Levels
Hard armor can be tested as either stand alone or "in conjunction with" soft armor.  Stand alone testing is done using the specified round against the plate only.  Hard armor in conjunction designs, both Level III and Level IV, testing starts using the soft armor “backing” which is tested first at its specified threat level.  

The combination soft armor/hard armor is then tested to ensure the plate and soft armor meet the specified threat level.   In conjunction designs must come with a label specifying they require the flexible armor backing to qualify as Level III or Level IV rated.

Level III hard armor is tested using a 7.62 mm (M80) FMJ 147 grain round at 2,780 ft/s.

Level IV is tested with .30 caliber armor piercing rounds (M2 AP) with a weight of 166 grains at 2,880 ft/s.

There are different standards to meet for different tests in both hard and soft armor, check out the link in the reference section at the end if you want to read more in-depth.

There is also a special level testing standard that is advised for people who are looking for something special.  Clever, huh?


Who does the testing?

Testing is done by independent labs.  HP White Labs is one example, Intertek, and DuPont are other examples.  To meet NIJ standards, the company wanting the testing done has to send in X number of vests or plates for testing.

Additionally, Follow-Up Inspection Testing (FIT) and Compliance Testing Program (CTP) from third party inspectors ensures that continuing build standards are consistent with initial build samples

Some people don’t seem to understand that not every vest is tested.  I’ve had to explain this to several people and got the same question, “How do I know this one will work?”  Honestly, you don’t have any guarantee.  If something went wrong and somebody didn’t catch a mistake, that mistake might cost you your life.  However, good manufacturers have good quality control and will test WITHIN their build lots on their own, usually taking a few vests off the production line and testing those.  Good manufacturers should be able to catch their own problems.

This is why I advocate for purchasing from REPUTABLE and ESTABLISHED dealers.  Look for vest makers that have been doing this for a long time and have a good reputation with law enforcement.  Ask if they test their own vests in addition to the NIJ testing.  Prepare to pay for your body armor, if you need it then spend some money on it.  If you decide you need a vest, or any ballistic protection, this is not an area to be cheap in.


Who makes good armor?

In short, I trust only a few manufacturers.  Safariland, under ABA/SecondChance/Protech, GH, and Point Blank to name a few.  Their armor is tested and trusted by law enforcement.  Others are too, I’m not shilling for a particular brand, I’m just not going to get on here and list every brand I’ve ever seen.  The ones I listed are the ones I’ve worn or seen departments order in large volume.

I do like Safariland’s brands though, mostly because they have deep pockets and should be able to pay for whatever they need done to make sure their vests are good to go.  I’ve also spoken with their customer service representatives and have always had nothing but good things to say about them.

This is also where quality comes in.  You must have a good quality carrier for whatever armor system you’ve chosen.  6+ pound plates moving around in a poorly stitched carrier will fail.  Poor soft armor carriers fray and come apart easily.  Even from good manufacturers, I’ve occasionally had to replace vest carriers.   I’ve preached it before and posted several links to the “What is quality” post on Primary and Secondary by a guy named Darin Talbot but, here it is again: https://primaryandsecondary.com/what-is-quality/


What level body armor do I need?

Start with an idea of the threat you might face.  The gun you carry.  Ignore the hard core mindset “They’ll never get my gun, I’ll bury them in lead and brass!”  That might be true.  But, just imagine if they got your gun and had no other.  Start from there and pick a vest that is designed to stop the bullet you carry.  If you want more protection, go for it.

The more protection, the heavier and the more bulky the vest, though this can vary by manufacturer and cost.  You can pick up expensive vests that are light and thin(ish) but still provide Level IIIA protection.   Also, if you plan on wearing it all day, that vest will get hot and sweaty.  Think about sitting and stewing in your own sweat for 8 or more hours wearing a Level IIIA vest.  If you pick a concealable vest to wear all day but, wind up taking it on and off, you’re not doing yourself any good.

I’ve seen other departments purchase Level IIIA vests and wear them as concealable.  A lot of departments are slowly changing to outer carriers for their vests because it is cooler and can be doffed if need be.  The outer carrier allows more air flow and lets the vest move a bit more.  I like them, some don’t.


What is the best armor?

The one you wear.  Consistently.  Just like a small caliber gun in your hand is better than the 10mm you left at home, the best armor is the armor you will tolerate wearing for extended periods.


Ceramic, Steel, or Polyethylene plates?  What kind of plate should I get?

What can you afford?  What level of protection do you want out of your plates?  Do you want/need the lightest plate or are you on a budget?

If you drop ceramic plates you could cause a crack inside the plate, though there have been tests that demonstrate even a cracked plate will offer protection, take care of your stuff and it will take care of you.  If you buy steel, it is heavy but more durable than ceramic.  Polyethylene (UHMWPE) is super light but has its own issues regarding exposure to UV light, fire (duh?), and temperature.

There are some steel plates that may have trouble with certain rounds, chief among them the M193.  Hopefully, I'll get the chance to do some testing on plates I have and I'll post the results in the Tactical Gear section, much like I did with some departmental armor I tested.

Plates come in different cuts, shapes, and sizes so buy a plate that fits the carrier you intend to purchase.  The most important thing here, like I mentioned above, is getting your gear from a reliable manufacturer. Also, there is no sense in spending $199-250 on a plate and buying an airsoft vest to carry it in.

I will say be cautious about buying surplus ceramic plates, I’ve seen them in Army Navy surplus stores, frequently at the cost of a new plate.  You never know what kind of abuse they have gone through and do you think an Army Navy surplus store would have those plates x-rayed to check for cracks?

I prefer ceramic plates for duty use. When mine aren’t in a carrier or a vest, I store them in a Pelican case.  Why?  Just in case.

Why should I spend all that money?  They will expire!

Some vests and plates are listed or advertised as "expiring" 5 years from date of purchase/date of manufacture.  Do they really truly expire, as in offer no protection after that date?  No.  Those "expiration dates" are warranty expiration dates. Though, some manufacturers are good folks and will help you out with carrier issues and strap issues.

There has been PLENTY of testing to show that vests 10 or more years old will stop the rounds they were originally tested against.  I’ve taken several vests out of a plastic bin in uninsulated metal buildings that have been exposed to Georgia summers and winters and they’ve all stopped the bullets they were supposed to.  Most newer panels have excellent covers designed to protect the panel inside very well from environmental concerns.  That said, time and nature can ravage even the best materials.  UV light and moisture, coupled with time, is particularly harsh on fabrics.

Manufacturers do this for a few reasons, but the two I hear most is a “cover your ass” policy and a “come buy more” incentive.   If you can afford to replace your vest every 5 years, go nuts.  But if you bought it new and have kept it in good shape and are hitting year 6, do you really think you need to rush out and buy a new vest RIGHT NOW?  That said, it is your life and your money.

Would I trust some old vest I got off of a retired LEO or from an Army Navy surplus store over having nothing at all?  You bet but I’d take a new vest offered to me over one that was ten years old.  Again, use your head, it’s your life and your money.

The Level II vest below was made by American Body Armor in April of 1990 and has been in non-climate controlled attic storage in Georgia summers for an unknown amount of time.  The only round that penetrated was a .40 180 gr Federal FMJ that hit the frayed edge of the vest and a 9mm 115 gr Atlanta Arms FMJ that passed through the carrier only and did not hit the ballistic panel.  I will post a more expansive run down of this "test" as soon as I write it.



How do I care for my body armor I just bought?

Read your manual that came with it, generally they all follow about the same recommendations.

Ideally?  Keep it as dry and as clean as possible.  Washing the carrier by hand is preferable to even a gentle wash cycle in a washing machine.  Wipe down your vest panels with a damp cloth, don’t use any chemicals on it and DO NOT WASH THE BALLISTIC PANEL.  I have to say it because it has happened before and fully expect it will happen again. Air dry the carrier and the panel.  When you put it back together, make sure the panels are in the correct direction, look for some kind of label that has language like “Strike face” or “body side” stuff like that.  When not in use, lay it flat to reduce stress on the carrier from a hanger.  Don’t just dump in in a pile.

Realistically?  Wash when your carrier becomes “your stinky ass carrier” seriously, nobody wants to smell that.  Wipe down your panels, DO NOT WASH THE BALLISTIC PANEL.  Air dry.  Put the panels back in properly and lay it flat.  Simple.

Store your armor like you would your ammo, in a cool and dry room.  Seriously, try not to hang it.  I’ve gone through a lot of elastic shoulder straps from various manufacturers, they wear quickly.   Caring for your vest properly and treating it with respect will keep it lasting and in good condition.

Store your plates in the same manner.  I said earlier I keep mine in a Pelican case when not in a carrier/vest.  It makes storage easier to me and it makes me more comfortable.


Where can I buy replacement straps for my vest?

Call your manufacturer.  Ideally, when you order, think about picking up some extras.  While you’re at it, consider buying a few extra carriers if your vest didn’t come with one.

I’ve made my own straps in a pinch.  I don’t suggest that, but if yours breaks in the middle of the apocalypse, you can make your own.  I used adhesive backed Velcro and stuck the adhesive side of the hook and the adhesive side of the loop together.  The two straps I made lasted, I still have them in my patrol bag just in case.


Why does my vest roll up on the front around the bottom?

Congratulations on wearing your vest A LOT!  Could be a few things, the items on your duty belt (if you have one), your belly displacing the vest under the elastic waist straps.  Losing weight is the only corrective measure but, even some of the fittest cops I know have “the roll” as I call it.


Reference

Primary and Secondary “What is quality” LINK

Ballistic Resistance of Body Armor LINK

FIT and CTP testing LINK


Big thanks to Cixelsyd for his input and assistance.

Great information. I'm looking at getting a PC and plates and appreciate the info. Probably needs to be a sticky.

Safariland also has an insurance liability policy should the vest ever fail.
Moisture is the enemy of the ballistic material in the vest.  Don't soak in the tub and it will last a long time.

Eta:  updates made.

Excellent and informative post!

Great info. Thank you for taking the time to post this.

<addressed>





CHRIS





 

Addressed issues noted by Everythingisawesome.

lots of points to be considered before buying a ballistic vest...but basically it must be certified from NIJ and should meet the particular protection required.  As concerned with plate.. steel and ceramic both will work.

link removed

That is not correct, no armor sold in the United States must be certified using NIJ standards.  NIJ standards are voluntary.  Think of it as a commonly accepted baseline rather than a rule.  NIJ certified armor has met that baseline, for whichever threat level, in some cases exceeded it.

ETA (1/22/17): Edited to include a photo and information from a test I did on a department vest from storage.

ETA (1/26/17): Edited title for broader topic.

Good basic write up..

Being in the U.S. if you purchase rifle plates
I would ensure they are rated to stop 5.56
Alot of level 3 plates wont especially green tip.
Reason already shown good chance active shooter
Going to use a AR.

If you look at alot of plates even some rated level 4 will have cavets against 5.56 green tip
So I would place less importance on the NIJ rating and look to see exactly what the manufacturer
has tested it against.

The title was intended more for those who blindly buy level 3 AR500 plates thinking they are now bulletproof. Those that understand armor don't seem to be offended by it.