Link to original thread.

This will be updated as I can hopefully you guys don't beat me up to bad.



First part is the conversion info for converting your Sordin Lemo style headsets to work with commercial radios.

I will cover these steps:
1. Convert connector to U93
2. Remove PCB inside headset that's no longer used
3. Convert dynamic MIC to an Electret MIC


Second part will be a cable and mic delete conversion.

I will cover these step:
1. Cable Removal
2. Mic Removal
3. Parts to full the holes to give a nice finished product.




Notes on the full conversion:


Parts needed:
(You can supplement your shrink tubing of choice. I like to use adhesive type. Also the solder of your choice. Do NOT supplement the connector or microphone)

U93 Connector: (If you can find cheaper let me know)
http://www.westfloridacomponents.com/HW017PD/view.html

Electret Microphone:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/PUI-Audio/PNM-5250L-R/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtcsMZaWNSqu7Rhi7egPHDEurlxxjwu4ww%3d

Solder:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/MG-Chemicals/4870-18G/?qs=%2fha2pyFadug04CfCcw2N%252bWJL%252bl6CCpAKDH%2fktACyS5A%3d

Shrink Turbing:
1/4":
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Qualtek/Q5-2X-1-4-01-QB6IN-20/?qs=%2fha2pyFadui%2fhp3Xt7zacdVqlv6P%252bwB3avggFuvQW1PmkfEog28dEq9rttsT1jgd
1/16"
http://www.mouser.com/Search/ProductDetail.aspx?qs=tEOwSubfllk5IoKXvU%2fWOw%3d%3d





Tools Needed: (Links to the units I have)

Fine Detail Solder Gun: (Do not use a large one)
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Weller-18-Watt-Soldering-Iron-WPS18MP/202077464#.Ua-aWZyv91s

Hex crimping tool:
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062636&znt_campaign=Category_CMS&znt_source=CAT&znt_medium=RSCOM&znt_content=CT2032236

Wire Stripper:
Any work

Cable Stripper: (You can supplement this with a razor blade but be cautious)
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2062637

T8 Hand Driver:
Any work

Small Slotted Screw Driver:
Any work

Small needle nose pliers:
Any work

Hot Glue Gun and Sticks:
Any work, steal your wifes

Heat Gun:
Any work, Hairdryer doesn't

Razor Blade:
Real sharp one works great

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------


More when I can..................

Reserved for step 1

-------------------------------------

What the finished product will look like:



Nexus Wirering Diagram:



Contact 1: White
Contact 2: Green and Yellow
Contact 3: Black
Contact 4: Grey

Brown is not connected to anything and should be cut flush.

I will add pictures when I can.

Step 1 - Cut Wire

Cut the wire right behind the Lemo connector. Use a good cutter, the wires are individually wrapped with metal braiding that can make the cable difficult to cut. I use a pair of linemans.



Step 2 - Strip the main sheathing back (Outer layer)

This is where I use the cable stripper that is typically used for stripping coax cable. I removed one of the blades and adjusted the single blade to strip the cable back and not cut into the wires underneath. You can use a razor blade but be very careful. If you hit a wire inside you will have to cut back and start over.

I typical strip back about an inch. This will expose the 6 wires each covered in metal braiding and a string material.









Step 3 - Removing the Steel Braiding

This takes a little time but has to be done. Take each wire and untwist the metal braiding with your finger then re-twist it off the wire. Bend the wire back and cut flush with a razor blade. Do this on all but the Brown wire. On the brown just cut the whole wire and braiding flush.





Step 4 - Cut the String Flush

Some people will actually tie this string around the inside of the connector, I cut it flush. To me this was tedious and I felt it was not needed with how I attach the connector. If you feel the need to attempt I wish you luck. Maybe strip the cable back farther to give you more string to work with.


Step 5 - Slide the Housing of the Connector up the cable

I can not tell you how many times I have finished up a connector install and realized I did not slide the housing on first. Resulting in me starting all over and throwing the connector in the trash.



Step 6 - Shrink Wrap

Here I take 1/4" adhesive type shrink tubing and apply this around the base of the cable. This does a couple things. It makes the cable tight in the connector housing, gives the crimp ring more to "bite" into, and helps seal the end of the cable.

Cut a piece of tubing about 1" and slide it over the cable so it flushes out with the housing. Go ahead and shrink it up with your heat gun. Spread the heat around until you see the glue run out the ends. Do not get carried away as shrink tubing will melt and deform.

Now cut a piece about 1.5" and slide it over the piece you just put on. The longer piece will give you the nice stepped up appearance you see in the picture and make it the exact size of the hole in the connector housing.

This can be really tight. Make sure the other piece cools and just take your time.

Go ahead and shrink this piece with your heat gun.











Step 7 - Install Connector

Did you install the connector housing

Take the crimp ring and put it over the long stem on the back of the connector. There is a slot for this.

Slide your cable and wires through this while holding the ring on the connector. You can not put the ring on the cable then slide the stem in. Doesn't work out.

Allow a small gap between the L-bend in the stem and the base of your connector. About 1/16".

Take the large portion of the hex crimp tool and compress the ring. DO NOT DO THIS IN ONE STEP. Go about half way and rotate the cable and crimp ring in the tool.

This style of crimp tool will break the crimp ring and render it useless and good luck getting another crimp ring.... If you do break it PM me I have some solutions.







Step 8 - Strip and Solder the White Wire

I separated this wire because it was a bit of a learning curve.

Take all the wires except the white wire and pull them back along the cable so they are out of the way. A piece of tape or small zip tie works good for holding them back.

Reason for this is if any of these wires are touching the stem on the back of the connector when you go to solder the white wire it will melt there sheathing and expose the wire. We do not want this.

Once the other wires are out of the way you will see a small hole to insert the stripped white wire into. Go ahead and cut back the white wire to the length required to go through the hole and wrap back around flat. Now go ahead and strip.

This can be a pain to get this little guy in there but it will go, just be patient.

Go ahead and solder the wire. Use your razor blade to remove the excess solder or wires sticking out. We want a nice clean look.







Step 9 - Strip and Solder all the other Wires

Pay attention to the layout I used up top. You will see a corresponding number above the terminal.

On a side note go ahead and squeeze the terminals together better. From the factory they can have a gap and some wires will some times sneak through.

To figure the length of the wire to size it I lay it across the terminal and cut it still it just barely doesn't touch the plastic.

Strip the wire back enough that there is no sheathing in the terminal.

Slide the wire in and solder the wire to the terminal.

Repeat this step till you have all the wires landed.

On the yellow and green they will share a terminal. Reason for this is one is left earphone and one is right earphone. On the Lemo connector the headset could be dual comm with one channel broadcasting in one ear and one in the other.



Step 10 - Seal the Connector

I take hot glue and seal all the terminals with glue.



Step 11 - Install the connector housing

Slide the connecter housing down and thread into onto the connector.

I like to take the small terminal on the hex crimp tool and hold the connector while I get the housing tight with my hand.

I have never broken one but I wouldn't push it.



Step 12 - Cables done!

If you are using a military radio (low impedance) or a MSA Icom PTT with built amp you are done.

If you are using a commercial radio or standard PTT continue to step 2.

Reserved for step 2

---------------------------------------------------

Going to upload photos here first. I will work on a step by step as I can.

Step 1 - Remove the ear cup and foam backer

Using a small slotted screw driver gently pry the ear cup off the unit that the mic and cable goes into.

Gently pull the foam off. This will review the PCB.









Step 2 - Remove the PCB from the housing

There are four T8 screw and a slotted screw and washer that hold the PCB into the housing. Do not remove the screws that hold the speakers in place.

Remove these and gently flip the PCB over.

Going to add pictures now will type up directions when I can.

Tag

SSgt, youll have to forgive the dumb question here from a n MP, but Im pretty comm illiterate, so what I was wondering is if this same process would work for a Harris PRC-152 headset to connect it to a Motorola, model similar to a Sabre. I hope you can shed some light on this for me, its going to be a post deployment project.

Not a dumb question. Do you have the model of the headset? PRC152 is the radio itself.

The procedure should be the same but the pin out may be different. I can assist with figuring this out if needed.

As to an update on progress... Sorry for the delay working some odd hours this week. I will try to get back on it this weekend.

Ssgt, thanks for sharing this valuable info...

Be aware the saber uses zener diodes to apply different voltages to a pin on the universal connector which which sensed will enable audio on that connector and disable the internal speaker. There should be some info over at the batlabs site.

Im not positive about the name of the headset, even our comm guy doesnt know the specific name for the headset. I have two,they are both 5-pin with PTT switches.One is black, hooks over the ears and around the back of the head, the second is green, has an elastic band that circles the head and green mesh that goes over the top, it has two PTT options, one that attaches to your gear and another you can run to your weapon system for comm during a fire fight. I tried finding pictures of either online but all I can find is Peltor gear. Both of these are issued headsets. I hope iI've been able to give you an idea of what I have here. I can work on pictures if that helps.

EDIT: The green headset is marked 'HARRIS', according to my comm guy its what is supposed to be sl3 issue with the radio.

Will you be doing a "how to" remove the mic and plug?

Thanks

Yes sir.

Sorry for the delay guys.

No prob Thanks!

Some updates.

Some damn nice updates.  Thanks ssgtcarroll!

I've got two pair of the surplus MSA Sordins.  This week I received my mic capsules, TP-102 and TJ-102 connectors.  They will be used with HX370Ss.  I will be looking for PTT assemblies soon, and they ain't cheap.

You can make your own PTT too if you want.

I can post the links to the materials if you want.

Thanks.  Yes, I was planning on making my own.  It's the cost of the individual switch that's up there; I like the Invisio M15 best.

Looks like I will settle for the old school U-94 A/U.

ssgtcarroll,


What glue sticks are you using?  I am researching the dilectric properties of some; from the bit I've read the polyvinyl type are a no-go, but the polypropylene type are OK.

Interesting observation. I have tons of them and do not have the original paperwork.

Thanks for pointing that out.

Ever tried doing this to hook up Peltor Comtac's to a Yaesu VX-8DR?

I never did mess with the peltors.

I have two sets of sordins..one with the lemo plug and one that is the tp120 dual comm...which would be the better candidate to connect to a yaesu vx8dr? Hand held ham radio?
I'm thinking impedance issues and mic conversions item....have the u93a ptt

TIA...

Looks like we have had a member who did this to VX-7DR and said no issues:

http://www.ak47.net/forums/t_10_22/629696__ARCHIVED_THREAD____yaesu_vx7r_compatible_with_peltor_comtacs___.html&page=1#i10747495

And looks like another member had issues and corrected them with a procedure that looks like this:

http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_10/393881_Peltor_Mil_Headsets_With_Any_Radio___How_To_Do_It.html

*nvm* Found it

I have a question. I recently did the plug conversion to my Sordins and I have a PTT with the amp mod done to it. When the antenna is not blocked by my hand or body I seem to be getting RF interference when I key up. The radio is a Baofeng UV5R+ and the PTT is one of the Nexus PTTs.

Any ideas? Shielding or an RF choke? Any tips please? Thanks.

This is something I experienced once or twice as well.  I never really did work it out so if anyone has some ideas I'm all ears.

ssgtcarroll,

Thank you for posting up this tutorial.  

I've assembled all the components to convert my headset, I have just one question on wiring the microphone.  You show using a multimeter to check continuity of the mic wiring to the plug, I'm assuming this is to differentiate between the + and - for the mic.  My question is for the "Microphone, High" and "Microphone, Low" which is the + or - on the mic?  (i.e is Microphone, High + or - ?)

Thanks

Microphone low (-) is the case of the microphone. High is the connection that doesn't connect to the case.

If you get them switched you can just switch the connection where the PCB is removed.

tag

I have cut off the U-229 end. I see a white, black, green, and yellow wire. What wire is for ground, mic, ground, etc..?

If you still have the connector and can see the colors,
http://www.cryptomuseum.com/crypto/usa/u229/index.htm

Thanks for the info it helped. So far I have made a cable for my android smartphone. I was unable to wire up the ptt button to use it with the cell phone. I eventual want to figure out how to wire up the ptt for use.

Anyone in here capable of repairing a set of Peltor COMTAC IIs?  One of the mics (left ear) is dead, and it's pretty fuckin' annoying only being able to use one side.  Peltor wants $300 at a minimum to repair that pair.

Do I have to do anything If I just want to switch out the mic from dynamic to electric? Or do I still have to cut out that PCB that's shrink wrapped?

Won't work with it in place. TEA cuts it out as well.

Quick question: anybody have a clue wear I can buy a Peltor Comtac II battery cover? I lost one of mine, and what should be a very easy fix is defeating me.

@ssgtcarroll

Any chance you could replace the missing photographs in your first post, Staff Sarn't?

Thanks!!

Thanks for the tutorial.  What is the plastic piece that you have on the mic after you replaced with the electret mic?  I may have another few questions before I attempt this project.  Much thanks.

I'm gonna bump this for the same reason as above. I have a dual-comm setup coming in. I will be converting the mic element myself using the Mouser/DigiKey part in the How-To... but other than some hot glue and a pair of solder joints... what is missing from the write-up? Is the clear plastic barrier something that was added... or part of the OEM assembly?

OEM

Much appreciated! I just got mine today and haven't torn them apart yet. Process looks easy enough now especially if the plastic barrier is OEM.

It would be nice if I could convert these to the newer MSA/SRS Avenger style electret boom like I've done with some TCI Liberators... but I hate the idea of drilling a new hole and plugging the old.

Could you please update your photbucket, sir.

This thread is so informative and a super good guide, it would be a shame if it became lost or unusable.

I second this

Please can you tell me what this PCB is for and why it has to be removed?

Is it correctly that if I change Lemo connector for a TP120 I made a 75310 Headset out of a 75305?

Would be very nice if you reupload the pics. Thanks for all your great work.

@ssgtcarrol

I sent you an email

Link for PTT with Yaesu plug

Hoping to get some help with the electret mic install. I ordered the mic from mouser that was provided in the link, but what I received was a 6mm mic. I verified the part numbers and its correct to what was linked. Unfortunately the pictures in the thread have been nuked by Photobucket so I cant see the install. Is this the correct mic for this? Please help, I am at a dead end.

Thanks

ETA:
Thanks for the response SSGT!!. That is the correct mic, I bedded it in hot glue as instructed. I will have some pics if anyone needs assistance since the pics in thread got nuked. But only after I verify function when my PTT gets here.

In for making frankencomms...