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Posted: 9/9/2016 5:16:39 PM EDT
I browsing thru the local stores, I found another beater. I have chopped several take down shotguns to riot length. This one got chopped and I have been meaning to install a grenade pin shell retainer so the gun can hold 5 shells while in pieces and the gun is reassembled, the grenade pin is pulled and the gun then loaded.
This one is an old humpback but nice patina and slicker than snot. 
Simple as a hole drilled and a "ball detent pin. Yes I will clean up that hole a little. The pin is slightly undersized, I need to find the next size up. Dummy ammo loaded. 
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Posted: 9/9/2016 5:22:27 PM EDT
[#1]
Where did you get the pin, and what size is it/the hole?
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Posted: 9/9/2016 5:54:52 PM EDT
[#2]
I found it at the local hardware store. I shortened it slightly. 5/32"
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Posted: 9/17/2016 11:46:22 PM EDT
[#3]
I spent a little time in the garage and shortened this gun to 18.5", and added a front sight. The infamous flip-flop recoil pad. I really like the overall look of this gun, great patina, slick as snot. Unfortunately I cleaned the stock with alcohol prior to taping it and it stripped some of that finish. I am assuming it was tung oil.
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Posted: 9/18/2016 12:36:12 AM EDT
[#4]
Strip the rest of the finish and then oil that wood back up. I use BLO, but Tung oil would work as well.
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Posted: 9/18/2016 7:40:15 PM EDT
[#5]
May have had some shellac on there is alcohol affected it.
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Posted: 9/23/2016 8:23:18 AM EDT
[#6]
I ran some buckshot thru the old girl recently. Shoots pretty well, 10, 15, 20 paces. LR indicates Fiocci. This is what I had on hand:
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Posted: 9/25/2016 3:35:14 AM EDT
[#7]
Nice shotgun it has the been there done that look
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Posted: 9/25/2016 4:32:05 AM EDT
[#8]
I like that pin idea!
Nice Deluxe you have there. |
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Posted: 9/25/2016 4:42:01 AM EDT
[#9]
Nice!!!
I remember you talking about the pin idea in one of the older threads, glad you got a chance to try it! Also... measure pin, measure bit then drill.  |
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Posted: 9/25/2016 9:58:57 PM EDT
[#10]
I used one of those hole gauges, bad idea. I found a cotterless pin on Amazon which I will try. I bought a bit that better matches that pin, I will use it on my 620.
I wiped the butt stock with more alcohol and then hit it with tung oil. It still needs a few more coats but looks better. |
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Posted: 9/27/2016 6:58:15 PM EDT
[#11]
Another function test. 5 shots Fiocci low recoil slugs at 25 yards off hand. Hard to dislike.
I found a properly sized pin and drilled my 620 for the old pin. Still need a vintage front sight for the 620 to complete the look. 
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Posted: 10/3/2016 7:52:52 PM EDT
[#12]
Got my first two deer last year with my grandads Stevens 620. I'd like to find another to cut down.
Posted Via AR15.Com Mobile |
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Posted: 10/3/2016 8:24:46 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I used one of those hole gauges, bad idea. I found a cotterless pin on Amazon which I will try. I bought a bit that better matches that pin, I will use it on my 620. I wiped the butt stock with more alcohol and then hit it with tung oil. It still needs a few more coats but looks better. One thing I did on my M12 was "bone" the wood between coats of tung oil. Basically it's the equivalent of surface hardening wood. |
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Posted: 10/4/2016 12:07:18 AM EDT
[#14]
It may be hard to tell my wife what I was doing in the garage...at least with a straight face.
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Posted: 10/4/2016 12:48:11 AM EDT
[#15]
LOL right?!?
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Posted: 10/21/2016 1:52:43 AM EDT
[#16]
I share your fondness for the Stevens 520. I ended up with 4 of them. I've cut one of them down, same as you, but hadn't thought of the pin idea. I'm going to have to drill mine. I got a slick case from Skinner's Scabbards that holds both "pieces" is separate slots. Uses buckles instead of zippers and is really cool. One of the most fun shotgun projects yet.
Continue on... |
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Posted: 10/21/2016 6:03:32 AM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Nice! New pics look good too. One thing I did on my M12 was "bone" the wood between coats of tung oil. Basically it's the equivalent of surface hardening wood. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I used one of those hole gauges, bad idea. I found a cotterless pin on Amazon which I will try. I bought a bit that better matches that pin, I will use it on my 620. I wiped the butt stock with more alcohol and then hit it with tung oil. It still needs a few more coats but looks better. One thing I did on my M12 was "bone" the wood between coats of tung oil. Basically it's the equivalent of surface hardening wood. Any particular method you use? Or is it just rub really really hard. Rossi 92 would benefit from this. |
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Posted: 10/31/2016 5:22:01 AM EDT
[#18]
I like the pin idea. Here's mine:
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Posted: 10/31/2016 5:58:28 AM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Any particular method you use? Or is it just rub really really hard. Rossi 92 would benefit from this. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: I used one of those hole gauges, bad idea. I found a cotterless pin on Amazon which I will try. I bought a bit that better matches that pin, I will use it on my 620. I wiped the butt stock with more alcohol and then hit it with tung oil. It still needs a few more coats but looks better. One thing I did on my M12 was "bone" the wood between coats of tung oil. Basically it's the equivalent of surface hardening wood. Any particular method you use? Or is it just rub really really hard. Rossi 92 would benefit from this. Traditionally real bone is used, or antler didn't have either do just made due. I suppose anything harder than the wood, and smooth enough not to scar it or leave drag marks would work. Basically just rubbed the side of the mallet working it in, didn't try to kill it, but just a good amount of pressure. One of those things that hard to describe but when you start doing it it just clicks. Basically hard enough, but NOT so hard it pressure dents the wood. I can't remember if I tried it on scrap wood first or not. I also did it years earlier on an old Polytech M-14s stock which came out looking awesome as well.
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Posted: 10/31/2016 6:12:44 AM EDT
[#20]
Avibank makes nice quick pins. Cleaner than the split ring type.
http://www.avibank.com/products/ball-lok-quick-release-pins/ |
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Posted: 10/31/2016 3:12:52 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I used a really smooth transparent yellow nylon mallet. Traditionally real bone is used, or antler didn't have either do just made due. I suppose anything harder than the wood, and smooth enough not to scar it or leave drag marks would work. Basically just rubbed the side of the mallet working it in, didn't try to kill it, but just a good amount of pressure. One of those things that hard to describe but when you start doing it it just clicks. Basically hard enough, but NOT so hard it pressure dents the wood. I can't remember if I tried it on scrap wood first or not. I also did it years earlier on an old Polytech M-14s stock which came out looking awesome as well. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I used one of those hole gauges, bad idea. I found a cotterless pin on Amazon which I will try. I bought a bit that better matches that pin, I will use it on my 620. I wiped the butt stock with more alcohol and then hit it with tung oil. It still needs a few more coats but looks better. One thing I did on my M12 was "bone" the wood between coats of tung oil. Basically it's the equivalent of surface hardening wood. Any particular method you use? Or is it just rub really really hard. Rossi 92 would benefit from this. Basically just rubbed the side of the mallet working it in, didn't try to kill it, but just a good amount of pressure. One of those things that hard to describe but when you start doing it it just clicks. Basically hard enough, but NOT so hard it pressure dents the wood. I can't remember if I tried it on scrap wood first or not. I also did it years earlier on an old Polytech M-14s stock which came out looking awesome as well. Thanks. Gonna try it out. |
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Posted: 10/31/2016 4:37:30 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Avibank makes nice quick pins. Cleaner than the split ring type. http://www.avibank.com/products/ball-lok-quick-release-pins/ I kinda dig the "grenade pin" look. |
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