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Link Posted: 6/2/2015 9:24:48 AM EDT
[#1]
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Quoted:
Ok, no suprise I guess but I pulled the barrel and(cracked) buttstock to inspect and replace w/synthetic stocks from Midway and learned the auto 5 doesnt seem to have the same recoil system. Amidst the scroll work on the receiver it says magnum twelve and bbl says special steel 12ga 3" 30 so I'm guessing 3" mags are OK.

Really need to get it basted/parked/coated but seems a nightmare to detail strip. Any suggestions for an auto5 smith that can handle the refinish? What parts/springs should be upgraded/refreshed? Action is snappy but I haven't shot it yet either.
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Here's a link to the recoil set-up for the different versions:
browning
Link Posted: 6/2/2015 9:35:38 AM EDT
[#2]
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Quoted:

... Personally, I like the older (pre-WWII) guns. They seemed to be made more for serious business rather than "sporting" use....
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A pre-WWII gun will NOT have "Speedfeed" (i.e., a two-piece lifter), and MAY have the old "suicide safety" inside the trigger guard. It will have the old-style lifter spring on a stud inside the receiver instead of the new style on the trigger group. All three of those things are negatives. Other than that, pre-war guns are exactly the same as post-war guns up until production went to Japan in 1975.
Link Posted: 6/2/2015 9:48:01 AM EDT
[#3]
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Quoted:
How big of a deal is a cracked forearm in a Model 11?  I found one for sale, but the owner says that the forearm has the usual crack near the receiver but it doesn't prevent it from tightening.
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I'm a pretty good Auto-5 mechanic if I do say so myself.

Cracks are pretty common. Often they can be (or already have been) repaired. I strip the finish with "Citristrip", then I soak the cracked end in acetone to remove all the oil from the wood. Fill the crack with expanding urethane glue. Refinish with tung oil. Seal the inside while you're at it.

Important disclaimer: if you don't know what you're doing, don't do it. Farm the work out rather than screw up a cool classic shotgun.
Link Posted: 6/2/2015 10:21:51 AM EDT
[#4]
Quoted:
... The barrel has been cut to just an inch or so beyond the mag tube cap...
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That's a little too short for my taste. The barrel will recoil past the end of the fore-end in that case.

Quoted:
... The barrel was cut and the muzzle squared proper....
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Was the bead pedestal silver-brazed back on? If not, that would indicate a Bubba at work to me.

Quoted:
...  The Dealer won't make any guarantee as to the function of the gun. He has never fired it...
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A certain amount of mass is required for proper function. But a bit of experimenting with the recoil system and different ammo should yield a combination that is reliable without battering the rear of the receiver.

Link Posted: 6/2/2015 10:32:31 AM EDT
[#5]
Seems a shame to put synthetic stocks on an old Auto 5. What year does yours come out to?
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I agree. The butt stock had a hair line crack that ran more or less parallel of the lower stock tang and through the pistol grip. The forearm is in great shape. The finish on both pieces is in great shape. This would have easily been a 90% or better Belgian had it been wiped down with oil on occasion. I dont know how to determine the age of the weapon, there wasnt anything obvious that I saw. If I had to guess based on the family history, this is probably from the 1960's but just a guess.

Here's a link to the recoil set-up for the different versions:
View Quote


Thanks! mine doesnt look like those diagrams - all I have under the forearm is a big spring around the shell tube. I am guessing this means I am missing parts

ETA - Looks like for the 12ga magnum I need these, I think

One of these friction spring
That was for standard 12ga and not the magnum

Two of these bronze friction ring

Three of these black friction rings

Might as well get one of these recoil springs and one of these action springs and one of these magazine springs

Found a nice step by step Auto 5 tear down PDF file here (right click ~ save as)

Link Posted: 6/2/2015 11:54:07 AM EDT
[#6]
Check out this link to date it

Serial Number
Link Posted: 6/3/2015 2:15:23 AM EDT
[#7]
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Quoted:
Check out this link to date it

Serial Number
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Thanks! I found this under the receiver just forward of the loading opening of the receiver:

74V281xx

I'm assuming its a 1974 Magnum based on what I googled on the V code (not listed in link)

Either way..its pitted too much to be anything more than a truck gun. Sad
Link Posted: 6/3/2015 4:27:02 PM EDT
[#8]
Yes the "V" is for magnum.

We need pictures of the damage
Link Posted: 6/3/2015 11:00:19 PM EDT
[#9]
Got my Model 11 converted to a two piece lifter. The parts dropped right in. Will the A-5 magnum recoil components fit on a Model 11 and would that slow a short barrel down to prevent wear?
Link Posted: 6/4/2015 9:00:23 AM EDT
[#10]
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Quoted:
Got my Model 11 converted to a two piece lifter. The parts dropped right in. Will the A-5 magnum recoil components fit on a Model 11 and would that slow a short barrel down to prevent wear?
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Cool - Where did you source your parts?  and how much does it cost?

I have a nice Remington model 11 and topping off quickly is a PIA, but not impossible.
Link Posted: 6/4/2015 10:22:01 AM EDT
[#11]
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Quoted:


Cool - Where did you source your parts?  and how much does it cost?

I have a nice Remington model 11 and topping off quickly is a PIA, but not impossible.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Got my Model 11 converted to a two piece lifter. The parts dropped right in. Will the A-5 magnum recoil components fit on a Model 11 and would that slow a short barrel down to prevent wear?


Cool - Where did you source your parts?  and how much does it cost?

I have a nice Remington model 11 and topping off quickly is a PIA, but not impossible.


I got the carrier from Midway for $109.99
I got the carrier spring (which I found out I didn't need for a model 11) from Midway for $4.99
I got the locking block latch from Brownells for $34.71
I got the locking block latch spring from Brownells for $2.99

I also got $15 off my order from Midway which basically paid for the shipping so the cost was right around $153.
Link Posted: 6/4/2015 3:24:32 PM EDT
[#12]
You order everything directly from Browning for about $120.
Link Posted: 6/5/2015 10:41:05 PM EDT
[#13]
Picked up my Model 11 from my FFL today. This thing is a tank. Over 100 years old with a 4 digit serial number. Submitting my Form 1 soon.





During its life someone repaired a cracked hand guard with the metal fittings. Of course I'm keeping it
Link Posted: 6/7/2015 6:48:46 PM EDT
[#14]
I picked a pre-Model 11 at a gun show today as part of a trade.  Straight stock, crack-free forearm, good bluing.  I field stripped it and cleaned her up.  The recoil parts were set up for light loads.  The only visible problem was that the mag tube is a bit wobbly; it tightens about 15 degrees past the hole for the screw.  I just put some locktite on the tube, and put it back together.

I ran some dummy shells through it after that.  Either I have no idea of what I'm doing, or there is a problem.  With the bolt closed, I hit the carrier release button and loaded 4 dummy shells.  All good so far.  Cycled the bolt and it loaded.  Pulled trigger (which has very nice break).  Cycled action, it ejected the shell but the next one got wedged under the carrier locking the bolt back.  This is where things got ugly!  Thinking that the bolt was locked back, I stuck my thumb through the ejection port to free the shell from the carrier.  You can guess what happened next.  Bolt slammed forward on my thumb resulting in lots of pain, blood, and cussing!  

After cleaning up the carnage to my thumb, I went back to it, not to be deterred.  Load 2 in the tube, cycle the action, and one goes in the chamber while the other falls onto my work bench.  This seems to happen every time now.  

Do these issues sound like a problem, or can you just not hand cycle shells through the action due to the log recoil (barrel moving) action?

Oh yeah- the serial number is 32xxx.  Any idea of the year of manufacture?
Link Posted: 7/1/2015 6:56:51 PM EDT
[#15]
does anyone have a picture side by side of the 1 piece lifter (carrier) next to a 2 piece?

Oh, and bump!
Link Posted: 7/1/2015 8:24:17 PM EDT
[#16]
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Quoted:
... I ran some dummy shells through it after that.  Either I have no idea of what I'm doing, or there is a problem.  With the bolt closed, I hit the carrier release button and loaded 4 dummy shells.  All good so far.  Cycled the bolt and it loaded.  Pulled trigger (which has very nice break).  Cycled action, it ejected the shell but the next one got wedged under the carrier locking the bolt back.  This is where things got ugly!  Thinking that the bolt was locked back, I stuck my thumb through the ejection port to free the shell from the carrier.  You can guess what happened next.  Bolt slammed forward on my thumb resulting in lots of pain, blood, and cussing!  

After cleaning up the carnage to my thumb, I went back to it, not to be deterred.  Load 2 in the tube, cycle the action, and one goes in the chamber while the other falls onto my work bench.  This seems to happen every time now.  

Do these issues sound like a problem, or can you just not hand cycle shells through the action due to the log recoil (barrel moving) action?...
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Something is wrong. It might be a broken carrier spring. Make sure you have correctly-sized screwdrivers before you take it apart. Buggered screws make John Moses Browning cry. If you don't feel competent about disassembling it, the place to send it is Art's in Missouri.
Link Posted: 7/2/2015 1:45:25 PM EDT
[#17]
Efiled my Remington Model 11 on 4/12

Link Posted: 7/6/2015 10:27:56 AM EDT
[#18]
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Quoted:

Something is wrong. It might be a broken carrier spring. Make sure you have correctly-sized screwdrivers before you take it apart. Buggered screws make John Moses Browning cry. If you don't feel competent about disassembling it, the place to send it is Art's in Missouri.
View Quote


Finally got to shoot it yesterday.  Put almost a box of shells through it with no issues (while firing).  I still get the carrier jam if you try to manually cycle shells through the action.  If you manually eject an unfired round, the shell from the magazine gets locked under the carrier.  

Extremely fun to shoot, but the thing is a jack hammer!
Link Posted: 7/6/2015 10:55:55 AM EDT
[#19]
I'm going to sell my model 11. Email me if your interested.
Link Posted: 7/6/2015 4:57:41 PM EDT
[#20]
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Quoted:


Finally got to shoot it yesterday.  Put almost a box of shells through it with no issues (while firing).  I still get the carrier jam if you try to manually cycle shells through the action.  If you manually eject an unfired round, the shell from the magazine gets locked under the carrier.  

Extremely fun to shoot, but the thing is a jack hammer!
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Quoted:
Quoted:

Something is wrong. It might be a broken carrier spring. Make sure you have correctly-sized screwdrivers before you take it apart. Buggered screws make John Moses Browning cry. If you don't feel competent about disassembling it, the place to send it is Art's in Missouri.


Finally got to shoot it yesterday.  Put almost a box of shells through it with no issues (while firing).  I still get the carrier jam if you try to manually cycle shells through the action.  If you manually eject an unfired round, the shell from the magazine gets locked under the carrier.  

Extremely fun to shoot, but the thing is a jack hammer!

If the recoil is excessive, the recoil mechanism is set up wrong. Maybe do a Google search about which order and which direction the pieces go. If a piece is missing, or if it's set up for low-base shells and you're firing high-base shells, not only will it be kicking hard, but the barrel extension will be battering into the rear of the receiver.
Link Posted: 7/20/2015 11:04:15 PM EDT
[#21]
Stamp filed 4/12 and approved 7/20. Time to revive this thread Lone Wolf McQuade style



Model 11, barrel cut down to 13", bead replaced, and threaded for Rem chokes by Steve at Rose Action Sports.

Two piece Browning carrier conversion done by myself.










Link Posted: 7/20/2015 11:26:28 PM EDT
[#22]
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it could just be the photos but I wouldn't be happy with the gap between wood and steel that they show on the stock. More than one A5/mdl11 has broken or chipped the stock when not fitted correctly. If all the wood doesn't touch it tends to consentrate the pressure on the parts that do. While it's not a pretty fix you can glass it in to tighten it up or replace it with different wood.
Link Posted: 7/20/2015 11:40:11 PM EDT
[#23]
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Quoted:
it could just be the photos but I wouldn't be happy with the gap between wood and steel that they show on the stock. More than one A5/mdl11 has broken or chipped the stock when not fitted correctly. If all the wood doesn't touch it tends to consentrate the pressure on the parts that do. While it's not a pretty fix you can glass it in to tighten it up or replace it with different wood.
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Quoted:
it could just be the photos but I wouldn't be happy with the gap between wood and steel that they show on the stock. More than one A5/mdl11 has broken or chipped the stock when not fitted correctly. If all the wood doesn't touch it tends to consentrate the pressure on the parts that do. While it's not a pretty fix you can glass it in to tighten it up or replace it with different wood.


I am looking for an original stock set. the wood is replacement.
Link Posted: 7/20/2015 11:51:28 PM EDT
[#24]
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Quoted:


I am looking for an original stock set. the wood is replacement.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
it could just be the photos but I wouldn't be happy with the gap between wood and steel that they show on the stock. More than one A5/mdl11 has broken or chipped the stock when not fitted correctly. If all the wood doesn't touch it tends to consentrate the pressure on the parts that do. While it's not a pretty fix you can glass it in to tighten it up or replace it with different wood.


I am looking for an original stock set. the wood is replacement.
Since your going to replace the stock you might consider accuglassing the stock to fit better, then krylon the resulting stock set tacticool black as a coverup. At the very least you won't break anything while you hunt decent wood.

Side question does anyone make glass  A5 or model 11 stocks?
Link Posted: 7/21/2015 12:16:14 AM EDT
[#25]
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Quoted:
Side question does anyone make glass  A5 or model 11 stocks?
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I believe I have seen some type of synthetic stock on a Auto 5 before.
Link Posted: 7/21/2015 9:54:45 AM EDT
[#26]
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Quoted:


A pre-WWII gun will NOT have "Speedfeed" (i.e., a two-piece lifter), and MAY have the old "suicide safety" inside the trigger guard. It will have the old-style lifter spring on a stud inside the receiver instead of the new style on the trigger group. All three of those things are negatives. Other than that, pre-war guns are exactly the same as post-war guns up until production went to Japan in 1975.
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Quoted:
Quoted:

... Personally, I like the older (pre-WWII) guns. They seemed to be made more for serious business rather than "sporting" use....


A pre-WWII gun will NOT have "Speedfeed" (i.e., a two-piece lifter), and MAY have the old "suicide safety" inside the trigger guard. It will have the old-style lifter spring on a stud inside the receiver instead of the new style on the trigger group. All three of those things are negatives. Other than that, pre-war guns are exactly the same as post-war guns up until production went to Japan in 1975.


I was speaking more of their individual history. There is something about owning a gun that was originally purchased to feed a family during the Great Depression, protect livestock, defend the home from bandits and maybe even defend the country from foreign enemies. During WWII my Grandfather was paid to walk a section of railroad track 2x per week looking for evidence of sabotage. He slung a commercial, long barrel Remington model 11 over his shoulder when making this inspection.

On the other hand, a fancy shotgun marketed purely for sport and used exclusively to shoot Skeet and Trap doesn't possess the same kind of Americana
Link Posted: 7/21/2015 9:58:29 AM EDT
[#27]
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So, is that configuration reliable? Is it picky about loads? Any issues I should be aware of before I do the same thing?
Link Posted: 7/21/2015 10:37:10 AM EDT
[#28]
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Quoted:

So, is that configuration reliable? Is it picky about loads? Any issues I should be aware of before I do the same thing?
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Right now on the heavy load setting it cycles both cheap dove loads and buckshot. I think I am going to swap the recoil spring  and friction rings with magnum components and see if I can get back separate heavy and light load settings.
Link Posted: 7/21/2015 7:05:13 PM EDT
[#29]
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Quoted:


Right now on the heavy load setting it cycles both cheap dove loads and buckshot. I think I am going to swap the recoil spring  and friction rings with magnum components and see if I can get back separate heavy and light load settings.
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Quoted:
Quoted:

So, is that configuration reliable? Is it picky about loads? Any issues I should be aware of before I do the same thing?


Right now on the heavy load setting it cycles both cheap dove loads and buckshot. I think I am going to swap the recoil spring  and friction rings with magnum components and see if I can get back separate heavy and light load settings.

Make sure to update with what you find out about switching the parts around. Maybe even part numbers and where you bought them from.
That thing is sexy. I wanna hear everything you have to say about that animal, hell, I wanna subscribe to your newsletter.

Oh, and what did the work cost you from Rose Action?
Link Posted: 7/21/2015 8:41:38 PM EDT
[#30]
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Quoted:

Make sure to update with what you find out about switching the parts around. Maybe even part numbers and where you bought them from.
That thing is sexy. I wanna hear everything you have to say about that animal, hell, I wanna subscribe to your newsletter.

Oh, and what did the work cost you from Rose Action?
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:

So, is that configuration reliable? Is it picky about loads? Any issues I should be aware of before I do the same thing?


Right now on the heavy load setting it cycles both cheap dove loads and buckshot. I think I am going to swap the recoil spring  and friction rings with magnum components and see if I can get back separate heavy and light load settings.

Make sure to update with what you find out about switching the parts around. Maybe even part numbers and where you bought them from.
That thing is sexy. I wanna hear everything you have to say about that animal, hell, I wanna subscribe to your newsletter.

Oh, and what did the work cost you from Rose Action?


I don't think I am going to swap parts because it now seems to be working fine. I guess it just had too much lube on the tube and/or friction ring. The only issue now is the POI is above the bead but I don't think I can do anything about that except place the bead beneath the target. It is pretty fun to shoot though. The barrel work cost $95.
Link Posted: 7/21/2015 9:13:35 PM EDT
[#31]
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Quoted:


I don't think I am going to swap parts because it now seems to be working fine. I guess it just had too much lube on the tube and/or friction ring. The only issue now is the POI is above the bead but I don't think I can do anything about that except place the bead beneath the target. It is pretty fun to shoot though. The barrel work cost $95.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:

So, is that configuration reliable? Is it picky about loads? Any issues I should be aware of before I do the same thing?


Right now on the heavy load setting it cycles both cheap dove loads and buckshot. I think I am going to swap the recoil spring  and friction rings with magnum components and see if I can get back separate heavy and light load settings.

Make sure to update with what you find out about switching the parts around. Maybe even part numbers and where you bought them from.
That thing is sexy. I wanna hear everything you have to say about that animal, hell, I wanna subscribe to your newsletter.

Oh, and what did the work cost you from Rose Action?


I don't think I am going to swap parts because it now seems to be working fine. I guess it just had too much lube on the tube and/or friction ring. The only issue now is the POI is above the bead but I don't think I can do anything about that except place the bead beneath the target. It is pretty fun to shoot though. The barrel work cost $95.

Adjusting the comb when you restock might fix POI. As a test, Try adding a thin piece of cardboard (1/8-1/4) to the comb with painters tape see what that does. I can't remember which way to go, it's been a while.
Link Posted: 7/21/2015 9:15:56 PM EDT
[#32]
Question did they put the same height bead back? The barrel is larger at the muzzle now, and needs a smaller/shorter bead.
Link Posted: 7/21/2015 10:30:08 PM EDT
[#33]
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Question did they put the same height bead back? The barrel is larger at the muzzle now, and needs a smaller/shorter bead.
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I'm not sure. The bead measures 0.115" with my calipers.
Link Posted: 7/21/2015 11:28:44 PM EDT
[#34]
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Quoted:


I believe I have seen some type of synthetic stock on a Auto 5 before.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Side question does anyone make glass  A5 or model 11 stocks?


I believe I have seen some type of synthetic stock on a Auto 5 before.

Tried it on mine, didn't fit.  Someday I'll get around to doing something with it, but got a lot of other project stuff I've been tinkering with.

Synthetic A5 stock on a Remington model 11.  Close but not close enough.  Forearm fit fine though.
Link Posted: 7/22/2015 4:06:42 AM EDT
[#35]
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Quoted:
Stamp filed 4/12 and approved 7/20. Time to revive this thread Lone Wolf McQuade style

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r4ktzot54lU/UYVabPMcACI/AAAAAAAAAck/3Ts4c2Tyu_Q/s1600/Chuck++Lone+Wolf.jpg

Model 11, barrel cut down to 13", bead replaced, and threaded for Rem chokes by Steve at Rose Action Sports.

Two piece Browning carrier conversion done by myself.


http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i344/jstamatson/IMG_1136_zpsnlw8xxlz.jpg

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What's recoil like with heavier loads and what's the point of threading for rem chokes, is there value in doing that on such a short barrel?
Also what was the turn around time from Rose Action?
Link Posted: 7/22/2015 7:31:19 AM EDT
[#36]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Stamp filed 4/12 and approved 7/20. Time to revive this thread Lone Wolf McQuade style

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r4ktzot54lU/UYVabPMcACI/AAAAAAAAAck/3Ts4c2Tyu_Q/s1600/Chuck++Lone+Wolf.jpg

[span style='font-weight: bold;']Model 11, barrel cut down to 13", bead replaced, and threaded for Rem chokes by Steve at Rose Action Sports . . .
View Quote



Just curious, what was your thinking behind the decision to have choke tubes installed in such a short barrel?  Do you anticipate engaging distant targets with this thing? With modern plastic wad shells, choke has largely become irrelevant out to about 35 yards . . . serious question, btw.
Link Posted: 7/22/2015 10:50:40 AM EDT
[#37]
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Quoted:



Just curious, what was your thinking behind the decision to have choke tubes installed in such a short barrel?  Do you anticipate engaging distant targets with this thing? With modern plastic wad shells, choke has largely become irrelevant out to about 35 yards . . . serious question, btw.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Stamp filed 4/12 and approved 7/20. Time to revive this thread Lone Wolf McQuade style

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r4ktzot54lU/UYVabPMcACI/AAAAAAAAAck/3Ts4c2Tyu_Q/s1600/Chuck++Lone+Wolf.jpg

[span style='font-weight: bold;']Model 11, barrel cut down to 13", bead replaced, and threaded for Rem chokes by Steve at Rose Action Sports . . .



Just curious, what was your thinking behind the decision to have choke tubes installed in such a short barrel?  Do you anticipate engaging distant targets with this thing? With modern plastic wad shells, choke has largely become irrelevant out to about 35 yards . . . serious question, btw.


Well, I can tell you that based on my brief bit of patterning work yesterday there was a significant difference in patterns between choke constrictions with a given load at distances well below 35 yards (10, 15, and 20 yards were what I was testing). I am aware there are some higher end shotshells with special wads that hold tight patterns out of cylinder bores but that limits your ammo selection. I like to shoot cheap birdshot and buckshot and whatever particular environment I am in dictates the length of my shots so I need to be able to set the gun up to pattern well at that distance.
Link Posted: 7/22/2015 11:00:29 AM EDT
[#38]
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Quoted:

What's recoil like with heavier loads and what's the point of threading for rem chokes, is there value in doing that on such a short barrel?
Also what was the turn around time from Rose Action?
View Quote View All Quotes
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Stamp filed 4/12 and approved 7/20. Time to revive this thread Lone Wolf McQuade style

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r4ktzot54lU/UYVabPMcACI/AAAAAAAAAck/3Ts4c2Tyu_Q/s1600/Chuck++Lone+Wolf.jpg

Model 11, barrel cut down to 13", bead replaced, and threaded for Rem chokes by Steve at Rose Action Sports.

Two piece Browning carrier conversion done by myself.


http://i1089.photobucket.com/albums/i344/jstamatson/IMG_1136_zpsnlw8xxlz.jpg


What's recoil like with heavier loads and what's the point of threading for rem chokes, is there value in doing that on such a short barrel?
Also what was the turn around time from Rose Action?


The recoil isn't bad with heavy loads but you need to realize the gun still weighs 8lbs empty. As for chokes, yes there is value to having chokes as it increases my ability to use different ammo at different distances. I was patterning yesterday with Rio buck and Federal 7 1/2 dove loads and I found significant differences in patterns with different choke constrictions. As for the barrel work, I believe it took two weeks or less total turnaround time. He had the work done after a day or two of receiving it so the rest was shipping time.
Link Posted: 7/22/2015 2:16:44 PM EDT
[#39]
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The recoil isn't bad with heavy loads but you need to realize the gun still weighs 8lbs empty. As for chokes, yes there is value to having chokes as it increases my ability to use different ammo at different distances. I was patterning yesterday with Rio buck and Federal 7 1/2 dove loads and I found significant differences in patterns with different choke constrictions. As for the barrel work, I believe it took two weeks or less total turnaround time. He had the work done after a day or two of receiving it so the rest was shipping time.
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Alright, just a couple of more questions and I'll leave you alone for a couple of hours.
When you get a chance, would you measure from the front of the muzzle across the top of the gun to the very back of the hump?
and, the finish, it looks parkerized, is that how it came or did you get that done.

Mine is a Remington made Browning from the early 40's and has a satin blued finish, I like the matte look yours has.
Link Posted: 7/22/2015 7:26:53 PM EDT
[#40]
The gun measures 19 3/8" from muzzle to rear hump 32.5" (OAL).

The gun is parkerized. It was refinished at some point in its life, most likely back in the late 50s or early 60s.
Link Posted: 7/22/2015 8:17:27 PM EDT
[#41]
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Well, I can tell you that based on my brief bit of patterning work yesterday there was a significant difference in patterns between choke constrictions with a given load at distances well below 35 yards (10, 15, and 20 yards were what I was testing). I am aware there are some higher end shotshells with special wads that hold tight patterns out of cylinder bores but that limits your ammo selection. I like to shoot cheap birdshot and buckshot and whatever particular environment I am in dictates the length of my shots so I need to be able to set the gun up to pattern well at that distance.
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Stamp filed 4/12 and approved 7/20. Time to revive this thread Lone Wolf McQuade style

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r4ktzot54lU/UYVabPMcACI/AAAAAAAAAck/3Ts4c2Tyu_Q/s1600/Chuck++Lone+Wolf.jpg

[span style='font-weight: bold;']Model 11, barrel cut down to 13", bead replaced, and threaded for Rem chokes by Steve at Rose Action Sports . . .



Just curious, what was your thinking behind the decision to have choke tubes installed in such a short barrel?  Do you anticipate engaging distant targets with this thing? With modern plastic wad shells, choke has largely become irrelevant out to about 35 yards . . . serious question, btw.


Well, I can tell you that based on my brief bit of patterning work yesterday there was a significant difference in patterns between choke constrictions with a given load at distances well below 35 yards (10, 15, and 20 yards were what I was testing). I am aware there are some higher end shotshells with special wads that hold tight patterns out of cylinder bores but that limits your ammo selection. I like to shoot cheap birdshot and buckshot and whatever particular environment I am in dictates the length of my shots so I need to be able to set the gun up to pattern well at that distance.


Well, yes, a modified or full choke is going to produce a tighter pattern than an open choke but will you ever use that tighter pattern for any practical benefit? Bird shot is for birds (either clay ones or live ones). If you're shooting birds at 20 yards, you're not going to use a full choke. You're going to use something more open. You only use the tighter chokes when you're trying to extend your range. That's why I asked about engaging distant targets. For any defensive type rounds you're going to use an open choke as well. You're not going to shoot buckshot out of a constricted barrel . . . or I wouldn't anyway. Just wondering what the practical application of choke tubes on a 14 inch barrel is.
Link Posted: 7/22/2015 9:06:54 PM EDT
[#42]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Well, yes, a modified or full choke is going to produce a tighter pattern than an open choke but will you ever use that tighter pattern for any practical benefit? Bird shot is for birds (either clay ones or live ones). If you're shooting birds at 20 yards, you're not going to use a full choke. You're going to use something more open. You only use the tighter chokes when you're trying to extend your range. That's why I asked about engaging distant targets. For any defensive type rounds you're going to use an open choke as well. You're not going to shoot buckshot out of a constricted barrel . . . or I wouldn't anyway. Just wondering what the practical application of choke tubes on a 14 inch barrel is.
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Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Stamp filed 4/12 and approved 7/20. Time to revive this thread Lone Wolf McQuade style

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-r4ktzot54lU/UYVabPMcACI/AAAAAAAAAck/3Ts4c2Tyu_Q/s1600/Chuck++Lone+Wolf.jpg

[span style='font-weight: bold;']Model 11, barrel cut down to 13", bead replaced, and threaded for Rem chokes by Steve at Rose Action Sports . . .



Just curious, what was your thinking behind the decision to have choke tubes installed in such a short barrel?  Do you anticipate engaging distant targets with this thing? With modern plastic wad shells, choke has largely become irrelevant out to about 35 yards . . . serious question, btw.


Well, I can tell you that based on my brief bit of patterning work yesterday there was a significant difference in patterns between choke constrictions with a given load at distances well below 35 yards (10, 15, and 20 yards were what I was testing). I am aware there are some higher end shotshells with special wads that hold tight patterns out of cylinder bores but that limits your ammo selection. I like to shoot cheap birdshot and buckshot and whatever particular environment I am in dictates the length of my shots so I need to be able to set the gun up to pattern well at that distance.


Well, yes, a modified or full choke is going to produce a tighter pattern than an open choke but will you ever use that tighter pattern for any practical benefit? Bird shot is for birds (either clay ones or live ones). If you're shooting birds at 20 yards, you're not going to use a full choke. You're going to use something more open. You only use the tighter chokes when you're trying to extend your range. That's why I asked about engaging distant targets. For any defensive type rounds you're going to use an open choke as well. You're not going to shoot buckshot out of a constricted barrel . . . or I wouldn't anyway. Just wondering what the practical application of choke tubes on a 14 inch barrel is.


I hunt with basically everything I own. I probably won't use this past 25-30 yards and mainly on birds but depending on what I want to hit (mountain grouse versus various plains birds) having the ability to choke it makes it more versatile. As for buckshot, I found the choke is much more important and yes you can and I do choke buckshot. It is necessary to get good patterns at different distances. An example with this gun is at 10 yards with a IC choke you can put all pellets into  a torso sized target. At 15 yards that drops in half. With an M choke at 15 yards it's back to 100%.
Link Posted: 7/22/2015 10:48:39 PM EDT
[#43]
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Quoted:

I hunt with basically everything I own. I probably won't use this past 25-30 yards and mainly on birds but depending on what I want to hit (mountain grouse versus various plains birds) having the ability to choke it makes it more versatile. As for buckshot, I found the choke is much more important and yes you can and I do choke buckshot. It is necessary to get good patterns at different distances. An example with this gun is at 10 yards with a IC choke you can put all pellets into  a torso sized target. At 15 yards that drops in half. With an M choke at 15 yards it's back to 100%.
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Hard to argue with someone who's done his homework . . . not that my intention was to argue in the first place.
Link Posted: 7/23/2015 12:45:23 AM EDT
[#44]
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Quoted:



Hard to argue with someone who's done his homework . . . not that my intention was to argue in the first place.
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Quoted:
Quoted:

I hunt with basically everything I own. I probably won't use this past 25-30 yards and mainly on birds but depending on what I want to hit (mountain grouse versus various plains birds) having the ability to choke it makes it more versatile. As for buckshot, I found the choke is much more important and yes you can and I do choke buckshot. It is necessary to get good patterns at different distances. An example with this gun is at 10 yards with a IC choke you can put all pellets into  a torso sized target. At 15 yards that drops in half. With an M choke at 15 yards it's back to 100%.



Hard to argue with someone who's done his homework . . . not that my intention was to argue in the first place.


Really short barrels are much more sensitive to constriction IMHO. I hunt waterfowl quite a bit and you almost never see barrels less tha 26" because they just don't pattern well with large shot. I have an 870 based firearm with a cyclinder bore and it is really sensitive with buckshot.
Link Posted: 7/24/2015 12:25:32 PM EDT
[#45]
Quoted: The Dealer won't make any guarantee as to the function of the gun. He has never fired it, received it from another dealer as part of a package deal and is just looking for a quick turnover .
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Will he not even run it to check function?

Keith
Link Posted: 7/24/2015 1:55:57 PM EDT
[#46]
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Quoted:


Really short barrels are much more sensitive to constriction IMHO. I hunt waterfowl quite a bit and you almost never see barrels less tha 26" because they just don't pattern well with large shot. I have an 870 based firearm with a cyclinder bore and it is really sensitive with buckshot.
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:

I hunt with basically everything I own. I probably won't use this past 25-30 yards and mainly on birds but depending on what I want to hit (mountain grouse versus various plains birds) having the ability to choke it makes it more versatile. As for buckshot, I found the choke is much more important and yes you can and I do choke buckshot. It is necessary to get good patterns at different distances. An example with this gun is at 10 yards with a IC choke you can put all pellets into  a torso sized target. At 15 yards that drops in half. With an M choke at 15 yards it's back to 100%.



Hard to argue with someone who's done his homework . . . not that my intention was to argue in the first place.


Really short barrels are much more sensitive to constriction IMHO. I hunt waterfowl quite a bit and you almost never see barrels less tha 26" because they just don't pattern well with large shot. I have an 870 based firearm with a cyclinder bore and it is really sensitive with buckshot.

I think the reason you don't see short barrels for hunting is that they don't swing well. 26" is about as short as is practical for something like a quail gun, and 28" for most other things.

Turkey guns are practical with short barrels because they're aimed like a rifle rather than swung like a shotgun, and they usually have very tight chokes.
Link Posted: 7/26/2015 10:42:16 AM EDT
[#47]
I just received my barrel back from Rose Action Sports for my Model 11. I added a 1 shot extender and had the barrel cut even with that. I think it ended up being 15.25". I also had it threaded for rem chokes and had the bead reinstalled. I started a thread when I first bought the gun, but it has been archived while I was waiting on my stamp. I will get some pics up later this week. Thanks for the motivational pictures.
Link Posted: 7/29/2015 5:31:40 PM EDT
[#48]
I got to put mine together today. I haven't had a chance to shoot it yest though. The barrel turned out great.

Link Posted: 7/30/2015 8:07:42 AM EDT
[#49]
That looks really nice. Did you refinish it? The furniture looks clean and new and it looks newly parkerized. I'm still waiting for my stamp, maybe another couple of weeks, but am going for a similar look.
Link Posted: 7/30/2015 8:15:15 AM EDT
[#50]
It had already been duracoated when I bought it. I did refinish the stocks while it was apart. I put them in a tub of warm water and scrubbed them with steel wool. They stripped down to bare wood by doing that. I finished them with a natural stain (basically a matte clear coat) mixed with a little red oak stain to darken it up.
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