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Posted: 1/25/2015 4:19:05 PM EDT
I have wanted to learn how work on Winchester Model 12 shotguns.  When an opportunity presented, I purchased these.  

Pictures of the Solid Rib gun before I started.  Both were in approximately the same condition visually, with the exception of the buttstock.  

There was more pitting under the rust on the Solid Rib gun.






















Did the RENOVATION on the round barrel first.
I use the work 'renovation' purposely.  I did no research on 'proper' Winchester finishes.  The goal was to freshen them up, not make them as they left the factory.

All metal was polished by hand and RUST blued.  

Total time in this project, including re-polishing receiver, was about six hours.  Of course that is broken up while waiting for rust cycles and oil finish to dry.  





















Replaced the  damaged buttplate with a NoS NOSHOC pad that I picked up somewhere.   It  worked well, as it was a bit shorter than the original plate, allowing me to trim the stock down and remove the damaged area.   It did require a bit of a 'perch belly' so as to not alter the area behind the grip.  










Finally have them both reassembled.   Starting to snow, so only time for a few pics.

The SR was pitted worse than initial inspection led me to believe.  I had to break out the files to make the gun presentable.
Challenge:  Tell me where I used the files.
I was very judicious and careful and don't believe I left evidence of file work.  There is one spot that I did NOT file, but the rust was bad enough that removing it with emery cloth made a notable change.

The SR was either used as a waterfowler, or very wet at some point.  Internals were okay, but all exterior surfaces suffered.  

I swapped the buttstocks, as I thought the SR would be nicer in the original configuration.














Link Posted: 1/25/2015 4:37:08 PM EDT
[#1]
Great work!
Link Posted: 1/25/2015 4:39:03 PM EDT
[#2]
Very nice.
Link Posted: 1/25/2015 4:54:55 PM EDT
[#3]
Those look very nice
Link Posted: 1/25/2015 6:29:37 PM EDT
[#4]
Pretty guns.  Very nice work.
Link Posted: 1/25/2015 7:33:00 PM EDT
[#5]
Thanks!

The Winchester Nickel steel is a PITA to rust blue but good practice.
Link Posted: 1/25/2015 8:08:00 PM EDT
[#6]
Well done, sir.  It is a shame to see how those were treated, and a joy to see how you have lovingly reclaimed them.

I have a Heavy Duck 3" chamber variation with solid rib and original red rubber butt pad.  I take care of it.
Link Posted: 1/25/2015 8:12:00 PM EDT
[#7]
Nicely done. Love seeing classics brought back to life.
Link Posted: 1/25/2015 8:33:30 PM EDT
[#8]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Well done, sir.  It is a shame to see how those were treated, and a joy to see how you have lovingly reclaimed them.

I have a Heavy Duck 3" chamber variation with solid rib and original red rubber butt pad.  I take care of it.
View Quote


Purchased these two and one other from an estate auction.  At least 20 Model 12's plus a number of other interesting guns.    All were very dirty/grimy.   Most has some surface issues.   The rarer variations went for more than I wanted to pay, for practice guns.  (Still should have picked up the 20ga SR)

Widow in her late 80's (or older), so I suspect her husband had been unable to care for them properly for a number of years   Met one son, when I interacted with him to get some information, all he seemed worried about was the hammer prices.  

Link Posted: 1/25/2015 9:03:06 PM EDT
[#9]
Nice job!
Link Posted: 1/25/2015 9:13:36 PM EDT
[#10]
outstanding work. you should be proud of those.
Link Posted: 1/25/2015 9:21:14 PM EDT
[#11]
Damn good work
Link Posted: 1/25/2015 9:32:11 PM EDT
[#12]
Well done OP.
Link Posted: 1/26/2015 4:00:53 PM EDT
[#13]
Thanks again.

I have one more to do as practice, then I will turn to the M12 I inherited from my grandfather.   I added the second barrel and forend to it a while back.  Now it is time to give it new lease on life.

Link Posted: 1/26/2015 8:37:54 PM EDT
[#14]
Work to be justifiably proud of!
Link Posted: 1/26/2015 9:01:03 PM EDT
[#15]
I give you an A for polishing.
Link Posted: 1/26/2015 9:14:17 PM EDT
[#16]
Here is your next project

Link Posted: 1/26/2015 9:21:07 PM EDT
[#17]
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Quoted:
I give you an A for polishing.
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I had to file the sides of the SR to remove the pitting.  Then started with 120grit., finished at 400.

Link Posted: 1/26/2015 9:26:48 PM EDT
[#18]
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Quoted:
Here is your next project

<a href="http://s938.photobucket.com/user/sickmak90/media/2B006743-A18F-4919-9506-B38F4F0EF587_zpskjbmas0h.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad227/sickmak90/2B006743-A18F-4919-9506-B38F4F0EF587_zpskjbmas0h.jpg</a>
View Quote


What is the bore like?

Wanna sell?
Link Posted: 1/26/2015 9:31:09 PM EDT
[#19]
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Quoted:


I had to file the sides of the SR to remove the pitting.  Then started with 120grit., finished at 400.

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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
I give you an A for polishing.


I had to file the sides of the SR to remove the pitting.  Then started with 120grit., finished at 400.


Link Posted: 1/26/2015 10:35:38 PM EDT
[#20]
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Quoted:


What is the bore like?

Wanna sell?
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
Here is your next project

<a href="http://s938.photobucket.com/user/sickmak90/media/2B006743-A18F-4919-9506-B38F4F0EF587_zpskjbmas0h.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad227/sickmak90/2B006743-A18F-4919-9506-B38F4F0EF587_zpskjbmas0h.jpg</a>


What is the bore like?

Wanna sell?


The internals are surprisingly clean, I'll ask my father in law if he wants to sell.
Link Posted: 1/27/2015 1:11:18 AM EDT
[#21]
Link Posted: 1/27/2015 1:49:51 AM EDT
[#22]
I have a nickle steel model 54 I've been planning on doing.  I tried an model 92 .25-20 once that didn't take so I've been reluctant to tear into it.
Link Posted: 1/27/2015 10:04:29 AM EDT
[#23]
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Quoted:
I have a nickle steel model 54 I've been planning on doing.  I tried an model 92 .25-20 once that didn't take so I've been reluctant to tear into it.
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Did you RUST blue, or COLD blue the 92?
Link Posted: 1/27/2015 6:13:08 PM EDT
[#24]
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Quoted:


Did you RUST blue, or COLD blue the 92?
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Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
I have a nickle steel model 54 I've been planning on doing.  I tried an model 92 .25-20 once that didn't take so I've been reluctant to tear into it.


Did you RUST blue, or COLD blue the 92?



yes, please elaborate on the rust blueing.  Was it dipped in a tank or rubbed on?
Link Posted: 1/27/2015 7:13:48 PM EDT
[#25]
That came out gorgeous.  Well done.
Link Posted: 1/27/2015 8:40:40 PM EDT
[#26]
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Quoted:

yes, please elaborate on the rust blueing.  Was it dipped in a tank or rubbed on?
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I can't embed to save my life, so follow the link.

RUST BLUING:  How to do it.
Link Posted: 1/27/2015 10:50:54 PM EDT
[#27]
Very well done.
Link Posted: 1/27/2015 11:04:40 PM EDT
[#28]
It was rust blued using Neideners formula, not cold blued with the selenium crap.  I don't recall the exact formula but it was essentially nitric acid, hydrochloric acid, and pure iron filings.  Some of the misc parts - like the  lever blued beautifully in just a couple applications.  The bbl turned a dull gray and stayed that way.  I must have made 15 passes on the thing.  It would rust, but then carding it off took off everything.

It's been a while but IIRC, The bbl was swabbed with clean cloth wetted with the bluing solution, placed in a warm box (wooden box with a light bulb and a pan of water for humidity) allowed to rust overnight, set by pouring boiling water over it, then carded off.     It worked wonderfully for everything but the bbl.


ETA: Didn't / Don't mean to distract from your post op.  Your Model 12's look great! - and rust bluing is the right way to do it.
Link Posted: 1/28/2015 2:29:48 PM EDT
[#29]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
It was rust blued using Neideners formula, not cold blued with the selenium crap.  I don't recall the exact formula but it was essentially nitric acid, hydrochloric acid, and pure iron filings.  Some of the misc parts - like the  lever blued beautifully in just a couple applications.  The bbl turned a dull gray and stayed that way.  I must have made 15 passes on the thing.  It would rust, but then carding it off took off everything.

It's been a while but IIRC, The bbl was swabbed with clean cloth wetted with the bluing solution, placed in a warm box (wooden box with a light bulb and a pan of water for humidity) allowed to rust overnight, set by pouring boiling water over it, then carded off.     It worked wonderfully for everything but the bbl.


ETA: Didn't / Don't mean to distract from your post op.  Your Model 12's look great! - and rust bluing is the right way to do it.
View Quote


No worries.  The discussion is essentially about the rust bluing.   Winchester Nickel steel is notoriously difficult to rust blue and I wanted the practice.

I have been doing rust bluing for a couple of years now and modified my process considerably.   I use much more humidity than you describe, but each location requires some modification depending on the humidity and temperature.

The one detail I see in your description that I would change is "pouring boiling water" over the parts.   You want to put the item in boiling water for at least five minutes.  Generally I boil the parts for 20-30 minutes.  
Link Posted: 1/28/2015 3:13:28 PM EDT
[#30]
I picked up a stainless boiling tank for when I get the time and courage together to try again.

I suspect I got something contaminated somewhere along the line.  I've also read the basic solution I used wasn't really right for nickle steel.  I don't know.  I do have a bottle of bluing solution from Mark Lee (#3 formula) that is supposed to work wonders with nickel steel.  I have a bottle of Brownells Classic Rust Blue also.  Neither of which I've used yet.

Link Posted: 1/28/2015 3:45:23 PM EDT
[#31]
Brownells Classic is my favorite over the counter solution, but it has been out of stock for a while now.  (Wanna sell yours.... )

Mark Lee #3?  I use the #1, but have not seen #3.

One important detail.  When ready to apply the first pass of rusting solution, make sure that you do so within a few minutes of your last polish.   If you let it sit a few hours or days, something about the surface doesn't let the rust "bite".  Either burnish or do a minor re-polish before starting the rusting.

Stainless steel tank?   You went for the big dollars!  I purchased the plain jane steel tank.
Link Posted: 1/28/2015 3:59:15 PM EDT
[#32]
john,

I just noticed you are in MT.

The first rifle I rust blued now resides outside of Helena.   Was reported to be out this year.

I actually rust blued it twice.  Once when I first built it, and then again a couple years later when I sold it.  My skill had improved, so couldn't let it go out of my shop with the first attempt.





My wife spent her youth in Montana.  Great Falls, Cut Bank and other small towns.
Link Posted: 1/28/2015 4:00:44 PM EDT
[#33]
I have this tank with a lid.  A friend of mine is a fabricator/welder.  He quoted me about 2x this amount for him to build me one.

Stainless tank


I read somewhere where plain iron is not good for rust blue.  But stainless is a no no for hot blue.  I have no intention of ever messing with hot blue.

I wrote Mark Lee and asked what he recommended for nickel steel - he recommended the #3 solution so thats what I ordered from him.

What are you doing to degrease?  I think one of my hang ups is deciding how to degrease and card without re- contaminating things.

That rifle is pretty!    My son in law has a beat up sako in .300 win mag I'm supposed to do for him.  I have it broken down, but I haven't torn into the metal polishing yet.  I'll have to send it out to redo the checkering.  I tried it - but I don't have the detail and patience.
Link Posted: 1/28/2015 5:23:31 PM EDT
[#34]
Rust bluing isn't affected by the tank material.  

I use this one: Brownells

I find that recutting checkering is harder than starting from scratch.
Link Posted: 1/28/2015 5:25:29 PM EDT
[#35]
Do you have contact information for Mark Lee?

I degrease with Simple Green.  Small parts I boil in  Simple Green solution.  Larger parts like barrels I just wipe down
Link Posted: 1/28/2015 5:48:25 PM EDT
[#36]
This is what I have:

Mark Lee
9901 France Court
Lakeville, MN 55044


I used to have an email   I'll poke around and see if I can find it.

[email protected]
Link Posted: 1/28/2015 7:07:43 PM EDT
[#37]
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Quoted:

I used to have an email   I'll poke around and see if I can find it.

[email protected]
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Thanks!

I want to ask him about the #3.  Poked around the regular suppliers and can only find the #1 & 2.  


Link Posted: 1/29/2015 9:36:47 AM EDT
[#38]
John,

Thanks again.  
The email address you gave me is still current and Mark replied almost immediately.

Will have some of the #3 solution headed my way when he returns from a trip he mentioned.

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