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Thanks!
The Winchester Nickel steel is a PITA to rust blue but good practice. |
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Well done, sir. It is a shame to see how those were treated, and a joy to see how you have lovingly reclaimed them.
I have a Heavy Duck 3" chamber variation with solid rib and original red rubber butt pad. I take care of it. |
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Well done, sir. It is a shame to see how those were treated, and a joy to see how you have lovingly reclaimed them. I have a Heavy Duck 3" chamber variation with solid rib and original red rubber butt pad. I take care of it. View Quote Purchased these two and one other from an estate auction. At least 20 Model 12's plus a number of other interesting guns. All were very dirty/grimy. Most has some surface issues. The rarer variations went for more than I wanted to pay, for practice guns. (Still should have picked up the 20ga SR) Widow in her late 80's (or older), so I suspect her husband had been unable to care for them properly for a number of years Met one son, when I interacted with him to get some information, all he seemed worried about was the hammer prices. |
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Here is your next project <a href="http://s938.photobucket.com/user/sickmak90/media/2B006743-A18F-4919-9506-B38F4F0EF587_zpskjbmas0h.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad227/sickmak90/2B006743-A18F-4919-9506-B38F4F0EF587_zpskjbmas0h.jpg</a> View Quote What is the bore like? Wanna sell? |
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I had to file the sides of the SR to remove the pitting. Then started with 120grit., finished at 400. View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I give you an A for polishing. I had to file the sides of the SR to remove the pitting. Then started with 120grit., finished at 400. |
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Here is your next project <a href="http://s938.photobucket.com/user/sickmak90/media/2B006743-A18F-4919-9506-B38F4F0EF587_zpskjbmas0h.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i938.photobucket.com/albums/ad227/sickmak90/2B006743-A18F-4919-9506-B38F4F0EF587_zpskjbmas0h.jpg</a> What is the bore like? Wanna sell? The internals are surprisingly clean, I'll ask my father in law if he wants to sell. |
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I have a nickle steel model 54 I've been planning on doing. I tried an model 92 .25-20 once that didn't take so I've been reluctant to tear into it.
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Did you RUST blue, or COLD blue the 92? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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I have a nickle steel model 54 I've been planning on doing. I tried an model 92 .25-20 once that didn't take so I've been reluctant to tear into it. Did you RUST blue, or COLD blue the 92? yes, please elaborate on the rust blueing. Was it dipped in a tank or rubbed on? |
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yes, please elaborate on the rust blueing. Was it dipped in a tank or rubbed on? View Quote I can't embed to save my life, so follow the link. RUST BLUING: How to do it. |
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It was rust blued using Neideners formula, not cold blued with the selenium crap. I don't recall the exact formula but it was essentially nitric acid, hydrochloric acid, and pure iron filings. Some of the misc parts - like the lever blued beautifully in just a couple applications. The bbl turned a dull gray and stayed that way. I must have made 15 passes on the thing. It would rust, but then carding it off took off everything.
It's been a while but IIRC, The bbl was swabbed with clean cloth wetted with the bluing solution, placed in a warm box (wooden box with a light bulb and a pan of water for humidity) allowed to rust overnight, set by pouring boiling water over it, then carded off. It worked wonderfully for everything but the bbl. ETA: Didn't / Don't mean to distract from your post op. Your Model 12's look great! - and rust bluing is the right way to do it. |
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It was rust blued using Neideners formula, not cold blued with the selenium crap. I don't recall the exact formula but it was essentially nitric acid, hydrochloric acid, and pure iron filings. Some of the misc parts - like the lever blued beautifully in just a couple applications. The bbl turned a dull gray and stayed that way. I must have made 15 passes on the thing. It would rust, but then carding it off took off everything. It's been a while but IIRC, The bbl was swabbed with clean cloth wetted with the bluing solution, placed in a warm box (wooden box with a light bulb and a pan of water for humidity) allowed to rust overnight, set by pouring boiling water over it, then carded off. It worked wonderfully for everything but the bbl. ETA: Didn't / Don't mean to distract from your post op. Your Model 12's look great! - and rust bluing is the right way to do it. View Quote No worries. The discussion is essentially about the rust bluing. Winchester Nickel steel is notoriously difficult to rust blue and I wanted the practice. I have been doing rust bluing for a couple of years now and modified my process considerably. I use much more humidity than you describe, but each location requires some modification depending on the humidity and temperature. The one detail I see in your description that I would change is "pouring boiling water" over the parts. You want to put the item in boiling water for at least five minutes. Generally I boil the parts for 20-30 minutes. |
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I picked up a stainless boiling tank for when I get the time and courage together to try again.
I suspect I got something contaminated somewhere along the line. I've also read the basic solution I used wasn't really right for nickle steel. I don't know. I do have a bottle of bluing solution from Mark Lee (#3 formula) that is supposed to work wonders with nickel steel. I have a bottle of Brownells Classic Rust Blue also. Neither of which I've used yet. |
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Brownells Classic is my favorite over the counter solution, but it has been out of stock for a while now. (Wanna sell yours.... )
Mark Lee #3? I use the #1, but have not seen #3. One important detail. When ready to apply the first pass of rusting solution, make sure that you do so within a few minutes of your last polish. If you let it sit a few hours or days, something about the surface doesn't let the rust "bite". Either burnish or do a minor re-polish before starting the rusting. Stainless steel tank? You went for the big dollars! I purchased the plain jane steel tank. |
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I have this tank with a lid. A friend of mine is a fabricator/welder. He quoted me about 2x this amount for him to build me one.
Stainless tank I read somewhere where plain iron is not good for rust blue. But stainless is a no no for hot blue. I have no intention of ever messing with hot blue. I wrote Mark Lee and asked what he recommended for nickel steel - he recommended the #3 solution so thats what I ordered from him. What are you doing to degrease? I think one of my hang ups is deciding how to degrease and card without re- contaminating things. That rifle is pretty! My son in law has a beat up sako in .300 win mag I'm supposed to do for him. I have it broken down, but I haven't torn into the metal polishing yet. I'll have to send it out to redo the checkering. I tried it - but I don't have the detail and patience. |
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Rust bluing isn't affected by the tank material.
I use this one: Brownells I find that recutting checkering is harder than starting from scratch. |
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Do you have contact information for Mark Lee?
I degrease with Simple Green. Small parts I boil in Simple Green solution. Larger parts like barrels I just wipe down |
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This is what I have:
Mark Lee 9901 France Court Lakeville, MN 55044 I used to have an email I'll poke around and see if I can find it. [email protected] |
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View Quote Thanks! I want to ask him about the #3. Poked around the regular suppliers and can only find the #1 & 2. |
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John,
Thanks again. The email address you gave me is still current and Mark replied almost immediately. Will have some of the #3 solution headed my way when he returns from a trip he mentioned. |
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