Ultimate Stevens 620 - Page 2

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[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Ultimate Stevens 620 (Page 2 of 2)

Posted: 8/6/2014 2:35:25 PM EDT

[#1]

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Quoted:

Oddly enough, I think I have that exact barrel band and screw. I picked it up for another project and never used it. Maybe it'll find a home on my 520 instead.

I'd sorta like to use some form of quick disconnects on both ends of the sling though, so if anyone has any suggestions on how to best accomplish this, in combination with the barrel band, please share them. I'm not real savvy on all the sling and sling connection methods but I do like the flexibility to remove and replace a sling easily and quickly. But, I also like the style of inletted, double screw, stock mount like that used on the 1903 and others, rather than the commercial single screw "stud" type. Is there a particular sling style I should be looking at? Something secure, but still allowing quick removal from the more permanently mounted military style swivels?

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Quoted:

Quoted:

I have a couple of old takedowns that I plan as winter projects. Can you share how you set up your front sling mount? What barrel band is that, and what swivel did you use with it?

Thanks,

Swivel Loop Band

Swivel Band Screw

It was for a single barrel savage if I remember correctly.
The front sling swivel and rear was from a 1903.

Oddly enough, I think I have that exact barrel band and screw. I picked it up for another project and never used it. Maybe it'll find a home on my 520 instead.

I'd sorta like to use some form of quick disconnects on both ends of the sling though, so if anyone has any suggestions on how to best accomplish this, in combination with the barrel band, please share them. I'm not real savvy on all the sling and sling connection methods but I do like the flexibility to remove and replace a sling easily and quickly. But, I also like the style of inletted, double screw, stock mount like that used on the 1903 and others, rather than the commercial single screw "stud" type. Is there a particular sling style I should be looking at? Something secure, but still allowing quick removal from the more permanently mounted military style swivels?

I'm happy with surplus garand slings, but if you want both ends to be quickly removed I have an idea(probably a bad one but I haven't slept in a couple of days so forgive me).

Get two garand slings and put both the metal ends that clip onto the swivel on one sling.

See, one of those on each end.

Posted: 8/6/2014 3:11:55 PM EDT

[#2]

Worth trying. Might work out fine.

If that doesn't satisfy I can always just use an AK/SKS sling. Come to think of it, I probably have one or two of those lying around somewhere too....

Posted: 8/6/2014 11:03:38 PM EDT

[#3]

Well, I destroyed my forearm/slide assembly tonight trying to get the wood forearm off. I have no idea where I'm going to find a replacement.

Posted: 8/6/2014 11:44:59 PM EDT

[#4]

Quote History

Quoted:
Well, I destroyed my forearm/slide assembly tonight trying to get the wood forearm off. I have no idea where I'm going to find a replacement.

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Check e-bay and gunbroker

The wood?

Don't know the specific model you have...

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Manufacturers/SavageStevensSpringfieldFox-33479/Shotguns-40503/620-41369.htm?page=3

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/ad/1285790.htm#1285790A

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/Products/179320A.htm

http://www.gunpartscorp.com/ad/578170.htm#578170A

http://www.boydsgunstocks.com/searchm.htm?&searcht=savage%20620&results=15&type=merged&orderfield=&sort=&mid=0&n=1

12 ga?

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=432581649

Will 520 work?
http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=432749347

Posted: 8/7/2014 12:18:54 AM EDT

[#5]

There's the damage. The inside of that tube was pretty well rusted out. Forearm split. Yes, it's a 12ga.

Here she was before:

Posted: 8/7/2014 12:24:47 AM EDT

[#6]

Quote History

Quoted:
Well, I destroyed my forearm/slide assembly tonight trying to get the wood forearm off. I have no idea where I'm going to find a replacement.

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Popert's lists a slide assembly in stock.

http://www.poppertsgunparts.com/cgi-bin/webdata/webdata_gunparts.cgi?Model=STEVENS+MODEL+520A&pagenum=2&cgifunction=Search

They pop up on the auction sites often as well. There's two on gunbroker one a 520 and one for a 620 but not cheap. Check with poperts first.

Found another on ebay as well. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SREVENS-MODEL-520-620-OPERATING-HANDLE-BAR-ASSEMBLY-12-GAUGE-520A-725-/111424828477?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19f16ff43d

Well worth $12 for the electronic version Has the complete breakdown for the 520 series which is pretty much the same for the 620's.
http://www.amazon.com/Digest-Book-Firearms-Assembly-Disassembly-ebook/dp/B007KQDX9C/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1407385164&sr=8-3&keywords=firearms+assembly+shotgun

Posted: 8/7/2014 12:30:03 AM EDT

[#7]

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Quoted:
<a href="http://s200.photobucket.com/user/tobylazur/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140806_211601_zpsh2cb9w8e.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa57/tobylazur/Mobile%20Uploads/20140806_211601_zpsh2cb9w8e.jpg</a>

There's the damage. The inside of that tube was pretty well rusted out. Forearm split. Yes, it's a 12ga.

View Quote

Ouch.

Posted: 8/7/2014 2:45:45 AM EDT

[#8]

Quote History

Quoted:
<a href="http://s200.photobucket.com/user/tobylazur/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140806_211601_zpsh2cb9w8e.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa57/tobylazur/Mobile%20Uploads/20140806_211601_zpsh2cb9w8e.jpg</a>
There's the damage. The inside of that tube was pretty well rusted out. Forearm split. Yes, it's a 12ga.
Here she was before:
<a href="http://s200.photobucket.com/user/tobylazur/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140802_185649_zpsordxird_edit_1407031576799_zpszvgojin4.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa57/tobylazur/Mobile%20Uploads/20140802_185649_zpsordxird_edit_1407031576799_zpszvgojin4.jpg</a>

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Don't mean to interrupt the thread but, what the HELL happened there?! !

Whatever the case may be, I really hope you can find the parts you need to get
your project back on-track and completed soon. Let us know how it turns out.

Posted: 8/7/2014 8:09:14 AM EDT

[#9]

There was mention of a light press fit holding a cap on the assembly when I was looking through Google. That stripped the threads, which lead me to start trying to unscrew it, which cracked the wood, which lead me to try to push one side out though I found out I was going the wrong way, which lead me to try to unscrew the cap again which finished off the wood.

Thanks for the two posts with all the links above guys. Looks like I can get what I need between them all.

Posted: 8/7/2014 8:35:15 AM EDT

[#10]

Have picked up two model 12's for projects but these guns are very cool. I keep my eye out for one but never see them.

Posted: 8/7/2014 10:24:27 AM EDT

[#11]

I had a very hard time removing the forend as well. Luckley mine did come off after lots of oil and nervousness.

Only a few small scratches in the forend nut from gripping with the channel locks.

I did see that whole assembly on gunbroker recently.

Posted: 8/7/2014 7:21:07 PM EDT

[#12]

You can find parts on ebay all the time for these guns. Lots of parts guns for these around.

take a look here Auction for what you need

Posted: 8/7/2014 11:42:03 PM EDT

[#13]

Quote History

Quoted:
You can find parts on ebay all the time for these guns. Lots of parts guns for these around.

take a look here Auction for what you need

View Quote

Ordered. Nervous about the cracked forearm, but it's still better than my current forearm lol!

Posted: 8/8/2014 8:07:42 AM EDT

[#14]

I've repaired cracked forearms on these. A hairline may not be a big deal at all and repaired to look like it isn't there.

When and if you dis assemble, drip some kroil or penetrating oil in advance on the threaded parts. It should make it disassembly easier. Go easy and don't force anything.

Posted: 8/8/2014 8:35:09 AM EDT

[#15]

Quote History

Quoted:
I've repaired cracked forearms on these. A hairline may not be a big deal at all and repaired to look like it isn't there.

When and if you dis assemble, drip some kroil or penetrating oil in advance on the threaded parts. It should make it disassembly easier. Go easy and don't force anything.

View Quote

Yep, I've repaired several cracked forearms. I've used both Devcon 30 min epoxy (don't use 5 min. Too little working time) and Brownells Acraglas gel. I used Brownells brown epoxy die in each case to color the epoxy. It's pretty simple. First, degrease the wood as well as possible in the repair area. Then just mix your epoxy (I thinned the Acraglas gel with acetone), force the crack open a bit (not enough to crack it further. It doesn't take much) and using a toothpick or similar, lay a small bead of epoxy along the crack line. Now, just allow the crack to close, then reopen it. Keep working it open and closed and you'll see that pretty soon the epoxy will wick through to the other side. Now just clamp the crack closed tightly, clean off the excess from the surfaces and leave it to cure for a couple of days. Depending on the nature of the crack and where it's located in a stock, you can also use compressed air to push the epoxy down into the crack. Just the little cans of compressed air works fine if you don't have a compressor.

I definitely recommend using penetrating oil on old guns before trying to remove stuck things. Makes a HUGE difference and can definitely avoid a LOT of damage. PB Blaster has always worked great for me. I've used it for YEARS on countless motorcycle and gun projects. A few drops, and an overnight soak will often completely free previously impossibly seized fasteners.

Posted: 8/15/2014 7:49:34 PM EDT

[#16]

This post got me to thinking and I went to Gunbroker and found a nice old 620 16 gauge that I got for $210 shipped to my front door. (Love my C&R license) It came in about a week ago and I was able to spend some time in the garage trimming the barrel back to 20 inches. I cleaned up the crown and mounted a new brass bead. Still waiting for one of the clip on green fiber optic front sights like I have on my Model 11 12 gauge riot. Here is the finished product.

I chose 20 inches for the barrel because that made both halves the same length and pleased my OCD. Plus my 25 round cartridge belt is the same length laid out.

Waiting on a Bagmaster 25inch Takedown Shotgun Case for it.

Posted: 8/15/2014 8:31:24 PM EDT

[#17]

Quote History

Quoted:
This post got me to thinking and I went to Gunbroker and found a nice old 620 16 gauge that I got for $210 shipped to my front door. (Love my C&R license) It came in about a week ago and I was able to spend some time in the garage trimming the barrel back to 20 inches. I cleaned up the crown and mounted a new brass bead. Still waiting for one of the clip on green fiber optic front sights like I have on my Model 11 12 gauge riot. Here is the finished product.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/johnrippert/Stevens620A_zps39e4a3da.jpg

I chose 20 inches for the barrel because that made both halves the same length and pleased my OCD. Plus my 25 round cartridge belt is the same length laid out.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/0903/johnrippert/Stevens620B_zps82e98b1a.jpg

Waiting on a Bagmaster 25inch Takedown Shotgun Case for it.

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It's beautiful! Edit: You will need some sort of sock for the front of the receiver or it will snag the case. I used Kydex, but a piece of cordura nylon would probably work.

Posted: 8/15/2014 9:32:18 PM EDT

[#18]

Thanks for the tip. Lots of old socks around here.

Posted: 8/16/2014 1:45:18 PM EDT

[#19]

I saw one on Gunbroker and it was close to my friends house. I sent him by and he bought. He is testing function currently...

Posted: 8/16/2014 5:19:19 PM EDT

[#20]

I'm wondering if a 67 or 77 stevens pump/fore end would swap over? A couple of my 620's have a crack in the pump but, haven't broken completely. Fun guns.

Posted: 8/17/2014 1:18:25 AM EDT

[#21]

Quote History

Quoted:
I saw one on Gunbroker and it was close to my friends house. I sent him by and he bought. He is testing function currently...

http://i101.photobucket.com/albums/m70/supercrewd/Guns%20and%20Ammo/Guns/b94cc509-ca31-4303-b0ab-73664bb0058b_zpsb3c8ef2d.jpg

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I like this style of fore end. It allows me to grip it a bit further back than the smaller, shorter fore ends.

Posted: 8/17/2014 6:14:42 PM EDT

[#22]

Just about back together. Thanks for all the help you guys gave me finding parts.

Posted: 8/17/2014 6:44:02 PM EDT

[#23]

Excellent. I'm looking forward to seeing the final package.

I do like the way so many guys will help out on this forum.

Posted: 8/17/2014 8:31:58 PM EDT

[#24]

Quote History

Quoted:
<a href="http://s200.photobucket.com/user/tobylazur/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140817_144828_zps3mxnvwuz.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa57/tobylazur/Mobile%20Uploads/20140817_144828_zps3mxnvwuz.jpg</a>

<a href="http://s200.photobucket.com/user/tobylazur/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140817_144813_zpsmr09cicy.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa57/tobylazur/Mobile%20Uploads/20140817_144813_zpsmr09cicy.jpg</a>

Just about back together. Thanks for all the help you guys gave me finding parts.

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Cool, post more pics when you get her back together.

Posted: 9/1/2014 9:07:00 AM EDT

[#25]

l have been remiss on posting my range report: Took the gun out about a month ago, when I accompanied a friend to his work at Richland-Chambers dam near Corsicana. Ran into a major glitch. While feeding shells into the magazine tube, the shell lifter caught on the projections at the bottom of the bolt slide and would not drop back down unless the action was cycled, or you hooked it with a knife blade and popped it back down. That effectively rendered it a single shot. It shot fine the two times I could load the magazine without tying up the shell lifter. I was kind of devastated after all the work I had put into it. A couple of days later, when I could stand to look at the gun again, I took a small file and opened up the split area on the lifter to the point where it was not near any of the projections on the bolt slide when pushed up in contact with it. I then loaded and unloaded it several times with dummy shells, and could not get it to hang up. I am hopeful that the problem is solved. I haven't had a chance to take it out again and see, but will report back when I do.

Posted: 9/1/2014 1:40:44 PM EDT

[#26]

Quote History

Quoted:
l have been remiss on posting my range report: Took the gun out about a month ago, when I accompanied a friend to his work at Richland-Chambers dam near Corsicana. Ran into a major glitch. While feeding shells into the magazine tube, the shell lifter caught on the projections at the bottom of the bolt slide and would not drop back down unless the action was cycled, or you hooked it with a knife blade and popped it back down. That effectively rendered it a single shot. It shot fine the two times I could load the magazine without tying up the shell lifter. I was kind of devastated after all the work I had put into it. A couple of days later, when I could stand to look at the gun again, I took a small file and opened up the split area on the lifter to the point where it was not near any of the projections on the bolt slide when pushed up in contact with it. I then loaded and unloaded it several times with dummy shells, and could not get it to hang up. I am hopeful that the problem is solved. I haven't had a chance to take it out again and see, but will report back when I do.

View Quote

Hopefully that fixed it.

If you still run into problems it could be the lifter, spring and/or the stud are worn out.

Pics aren't great but could be helpful to some people in this thread.

Bad lifter compared to good one

Bad lifter spring compared to good one.

Tear down.
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_1/387754_Ward_s_Western_Field__stevens_620__detail_stripping.html

Posted: 9/21/2014 4:32:46 AM EDT

[#27]

I'm wondering how hard it would be to move the lug on the bottom of the barrel forward and fabricate an extended magazine tube? The lug is just silver-soldered onto the bottom of the barrel, is it not? Just kind of spitballing here.

Posted: 9/21/2014 6:35:06 AM EDT

[#28]

Quote History

Quoted:
I'm wondering how hard it would be to move the lug on the bottom of the barrel forward and fabricate an extended magazine tube? The lug is just silver-soldered onto the bottom of the barrel, is it not? Just kind of spitballing here.

View Quote

Yeah, I thought the same after seeing a Savage 69 rxl.

Seems entirely possible.

Posted: 9/24/2014 7:25:31 PM EDT

[#29]

I put the Stevens back together last night. Still needs a bead.

Posted: 9/24/2014 8:50:34 PM EDT

[#30]

I still need to refinish mine and install a recoil pad. I also installed a Boyd's ribbed forend:

Posted: 9/24/2014 11:47:51 PM EDT

[#31]

Sights look good. Did you shorten your stock?

Posted: 9/25/2014 5:12:24 AM EDT

[#32]

Quote History

Quoted:
I put the Stevens back together last night. Still needs a bead.

<a href="http://s200.photobucket.com/user/tobylazur/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20140924_155710_zpsnqqdsdr_edit_1411600621531_zpseuhn4k2q.jpg.html" target="_blank">http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa57/tobylazur/Mobile%20Uploads/20140924_155710_zpsnqqdsdr_edit_1411600621531_zpseuhn4k2q.jpg</a>

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That's purrrddy!

Posted: 9/25/2014 5:13:57 AM EDT

[#33]

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Sweet looking rig!

Posted: 10/21/2014 5:58:20 PM EDT

[#34]

Just picked one of these up! Love the take down machinework!
Really neat gun. Mine was already cut down to 18 1/2" barrel.
Glued a crack in the stock and shot it last night, then it cracked again in a different place about 1/2" away.
Really pretty wood on this stock.
Anyone have a lead on a used stock for not alot $$?

Posted: 10/22/2014 12:57:44 PM EDT

[#35]

Ebay or Numrich Gun parts.

Posted: 12/18/2014 8:59:22 AM EDT

[#36]

Check out the extended magazine and spring clip shell retainer:

http://www.gunbroker.com/Auction/ViewItem.aspx?Item=458863540

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Ultimate Stevens 620 (Page 2 of 2)

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