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They send those things to the Briley Choke company in Texas. I wonder if they wouldn't have sent you a new gun?
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They send those things to the Briley Choke company in Texas. I wonder if they wouldn't have sent you a new gun? That's part of the issue. It's hard to find a Yildiz that has the wood grain and fit of this one. Most are hit or miss in terms of the forearm and butt stock matching. This one also was hand selected by my father and me. After buying this gun, my nephews all received the same style O/U for Christmas. But, that's the trivial part. The main problem would be the 'repair' work. Would they simply tap the barrels back down? Would they replace the barrel and chamber assembly and refit the wood? And, all of that still goes back to a design flaw/issue. Why did it separate in the first place? Would a replacement be any safer than the existing gun if they are all assembled with this same design? I'm going to need to run a case of shells through this thing before I trust it enough to put my hand on the forearm, but, I think this is the 'fix' that I can live with and trust. Nobody has reported this issue before, so, I am hoping mine was a fluke. TRG |
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Barrel separation from the monobloc is not terribly uncommon. I've seen it happen in Brownings, Caesar Guerinis, Berettas and Perazzis. When you shoot an O/U, the stresses during firing want to send the barrels downrange too. The barrels are not not just friction fitted, they usually have a soft solder or in more recent years a specific Loctite compound used to physically bond them to the monobloc. I forget which Loctite is used, buy do an advanced google search on domain trapshooters.com and you'll find the answer.
I honestly don't know if JB Weld will do the trick definitively, so watch for signs of them creeping off the monobloc again with use. Also tap the rib along the length of the barrel and see if it is loose. You'll hear it 'ping.' I'll bet you $1 that if it isn't now it will be with any amount of use. They usually fail because 1) the original mating was incorrectly performed or insufficient 2) the gun gets hot re-blued and the solder melts away 3) loose barrel to monobloc tolerances that rely on the solder or chemical bond too much (I think this is what happened with your gun based upon your description and behavior of the JB Weld during your repair.) That receiver damage is exacerbated by the soft steel used in Yildiz shotguns. In makes like the ones I mentioned above, you wouldn't see that kind of damage. Most of the Yildiz guns I have seen go down do so as a result of some soft steel part getting all mashed out of shape. Your locking lugs and ejector arms already show this, unless you've put 150,000 rounds through those tubes. Domestic support for these guns isn't great. |
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Quoted: Hopefully I won't blow my hand off this it now. TRG ...said Professor L'il Wayne. |
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I wish you would have sent it to Briley... I wouldn't have any way to know what repairs they performed, or if they just tapped the barrels back on to the receiver. TRG |
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Quoted: Quoted: I wish you would have sent it to Briley... I wouldn't have any way to know what repairs they performed, or if they just tapped the barrels back on to the receiver. TRG Well, I guess you could have asked here before sending it out to Jose Brothers Welding y Gunsmithing. Honestly and in complete reckless speculation, they probably would have declined the repair and congratulated you on your new parts gun. Those guys know when a problem comes along that's going to keep coming along. Now that the receiver is bent all to shit, those barrels will have less support and 'room to run' when the Jose Brothers warranty expires. |
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I wish you would have sent it to Briley... I wouldn't have any way to know what repairs they performed, or if they just tapped the barrels back on to the receiver. TRG Well, I guess you could have asked here before sending it out to Jose Brothers Welding y Gunsmithing. Honestly and in complete reckless speculation, they probably would have declined the repair and congratulated you on your new parts gun. Those guys know when a problem comes along that's going to keep coming along. Now that the receiver is bent all to shit, those barrels will have less support and 'room to run' when the Jose Brothers warranty expires. Fired one round today: http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/commons/thumb/d/d0/Male_north_american_turkey_supersaturated.jpg/225px-Male_north_american_turkey_supersaturated.jpg TRG "Congratulations on your new parts gun." Yup. But...then again, I might try some locktite... TRG |
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Let me make the first offer on the firing pins when you decide to make a wall hanger out of it. Damn. I really liked that gun.
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Quoted: Yup. But...then again, I might try some locktite... TRG Well, in that case... Separate the barrels from breech, clean them with brake cleaner and use Loctite 680 or 638 (better) with 7471 Primer. Put them together and let set for two days. It is called a retention fluid. It is used mainly for bearing races and will accommodate up to .007 clearance. At 300 F Loctite has a 50% yield and will break lose at 450 F. If your bonding a gap of less then .002 it will fully cure in less then 24 hours. You really don't need the primer with a press fit but it would make it stronger. Get it from MSC Industrial Supply Co. The adhesive was $22.00 for 1/3 oz. You might get a little more life out of it, but trust me when I say that bitch is going to be nothing but trouble from here on out. And that muddy looking shit is flux. That barrel was originally soft soldered together. FWIW, I used a temp gun to test my barrels at a high volume shoot. It never got over 150 degrees at the hottest part, just ahead of the forcing cones. |
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Well, in that case... Separate the barrels from breech How? That is where I am scratching my head on this now. TRG |
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Quoted: Quoted: Well, in that case... Separate the barrels from breech How? That is where I am scratching my head on this now. TRG Shoot it some more. Honestly I don't have an answer for you there as a DIY gunsmith. And further I think anything you do (like a vise or heat) is going to ruin the barrels anyway. You could try and find a pair of dowels that pass through the chamber and forcing cones but lodge in the barrel. Chuck the monobloc in a wood lined vise (remove ejectors first) and beat the shit out of it. |
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Well, in that case... Separate the barrels from breech How? That is where I am scratching my head on this now. TRG Shoot it some more. Honestly I don't have an answer for you there as a DIY gunsmith. And further I think anything you do (like a vise or heat) is going to ruin the barrels anyway. You could try and find a pair of dowels that pass through the chamber and forcing cones but lodge in the barrel. Chuck the monobloc in a wood lined vise (remove ejectors first) and beat the shit out of it. One of us needs to stop thinking like the other. I considered the dowel approach. Obviously, the shot itself has enough friction and pressure to slide the barrels forward, so...it should not take alot of force to slide the barrels. I even though about removing the forearm and firing it again. I think what we will do is place the barrels in a vice and with either leather or heavy cloth, lightly begin to knock the action away from the barrels with dual mallets and broad wedges. If the barrels are held stationary, with the right tapping, I think a local buddy (Locksmith76) and I should be able to remove the action from the barrels. TRG |
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Ordered the 638 and primer from amazon. About 50.00 total for both shipped.
TRG |
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Quoted: Ordered the 638 and primer from amazon. About 50.00 total for both shipped. TRG Even though I helped create this mess I am not donating to the tacked thread that informs the site of your new status as a left arm amputee, just so you know. |
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Ordered the 638 and primer from amazon. About 50.00 total for both shipped. TRG Even though I helped create this mess I am not donating to the tacked thread that informs the site of your new status as a left arm amputee, just so you know. If loving you is right, I don't wanna be wrong. Wait... TRG |
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You might want to contact Moneymaker or Simmons Gun Works to see if they want to tackle this project. I've had both do barrel and rib repairs that no one else would touch. Cleaning up the JB, resolderng the barrels in place and any refinishing required may exceed the price you want to pay. Its not gonna be cheap and you may be able to buy a new gun just to get the barrels for less. but if anyone could do the job these guys would be my first call.
http://www.moneymakerguncraft.com/ http://simmonsguns.com/ |
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You seem to be on the right track.
I am tagging this in case you need any motivator pix.
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You seem to be on the right track. I am tagging this in case you need any motivator pix. LOL. I wasn't really nervous until you chimed in... TRG |
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Quoted: I think with SM3's advice, I can at least make her functional and safe. TRG You simply must have this thread moved into GD so that I may have my way with you. |
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I think with SM3's advice, I can at least make her functional and safe. TRG You simply must have this thread moved into GD so that I may have my way with you. I feel safe here, I am among friends. TRG |
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Curious as to how the loctite will hold up.
Dog looks thrilled............. |
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Quoted: Curious as to how the loctite will hold up. Dog looks thrilled............. There is no doubt as to how it will hold up. I've seen this repair made by factory reps at a big national shoot. This repair will probably be the last thing that works on this gun when the internals are all mashed to hell. |
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Curious as to how the loctite will hold up. Dog looks thrilled............. There is no doubt as to how it will hold up. I've seen this repair made by factory reps at a big national shoot. This repair will probably be the last thing that works on this gun when the internals are all mashed to hell. Nice sigline. This is the second time you mentioned the internals. Is this something that has to do with the Yildiz in general or the original barrel slippage on mine specifically? As an aside, the black stuff on the barrels had a grease like quality to it. It was oily to the touch. Not what I expected to encounter as any sort of adhesive agent. TRG |
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Curious as to how the loctite will hold up. Dog looks thrilled............. There is no doubt as to how it will hold up. I've seen this repair made by factory reps at a big national shoot. This repair will probably be the last thing that works on this gun when the internals are all mashed to hell. So it should be good for 500 rounds or so. |
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Quoted: ....has to do with the Yildiz in general TRG Not just yours, but pretty much all Turk guns. Take the S&W Elite series of shotguns. S&W learned the lesson on Turkish guns the hard way. They ended up as CDNN specials pretty damn quick after some pretty big marketing hulabaloo. The steel is shit. Some of the old growth walnut that comes out of the country is fantastic and commands top dollar, but it ends there as far as shotguns go. |
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Well, the Locktite and primer arrived.
Sprayed the primer, wiped away the excess (evaporates really fast anyways). Applied the Locktite to the barrels and inside the bloc, and pressed the monobloc back on to the barrels. It slid on very easy. I was kinda surprised how easy. Wiped off the squeeze-out/excess as fast as I could, and use some of the primer to remove some Locktite that went under the ejectors. No pics, I was working fast because I did not know how quickly the material would dry, or ooze in to an unwanted gap. To my relief, any excess that did dry was easy to chip away from any bare metal, chambers, etc. Now, we wait while it cures. TRG |
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Checked to be sure nothing had fuzed unexpectedly this morning. So far, everything seems to be working. Ejectors open and close.
I did not understand why I needed to remove the ejectors (which I did not do) until I saw the locktite squeeze out underneath the mechanism when pressed together. Doh! Will test fire it tomorrow afternoon. That will be a 48 hour cure for the Locktite. I need to secure the rib above the chambers, I did not use Locktite on it and there is a small gap between the rib and the chambers. TRG |
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Will Everything work out alright? Will TRG's shadetree gunsmithing result in gold or crimson? Will TRG stand for "That Ran Great" or "Totally Removed: Gone"? Stay tuned for the next installment of TRG's "How Hard Can It Be"! |
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....has to do with the Yildiz in general TRG Not just yours, but pretty much all Turk guns. Take the S&W Elite series of shotguns. S&W learned the lesson on Turkish guns the hard way. They ended up as CDNN specials pretty damn quick after some pretty big marketing hulabaloo. The steel is shit. Some of the old growth walnut that comes out of the country is fantastic and commands top dollar, but it ends there as far as shotguns go. That saddens me. I liked the way the CZ line of SXS shotguns handled. I think they are made by Huglu. What would you recommend for a basic O/U or SxS? Naturally the gun has to fit, but any brands you consider offer good value? |
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It took me a bit to come up with the appropriate acronym. Some of the ones I passed on are:
TurkRemovedGripper That'sReallyGross TraumaticlyRightGripped ThumbRemovedGrandly Thumb Relocated to Ground |
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It took me a bit to come up with the appropriate acronym. Some of the ones I passed on are: TurkRemovedGripper That'sReallyGross TraumaticlyRightGripped ThumbRemovedGrandly Thumb Relocated to Ground That one made me laugh. TRG |
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....has to do with the Yildiz in general TRG Not just yours, but pretty much all Turk guns. Take the S&W Elite series of shotguns. S&W learned the lesson on Turkish guns the hard way. They ended up as CDNN specials pretty damn quick after some pretty big marketing hulabaloo. The steel is shit. Some of the old growth walnut that comes out of the country is fantastic and commands top dollar, but it ends there as far as shotguns go. That saddens me. I liked the way the CZ line of SXS shotguns handled. I think they are made by Huglu. What would you recommend for a basic O/U or SxS? Naturally the gun has to fit, but any brands you consider offer good value? I've heard good things about Stoeger. |
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Quoted: Well, the Locktite and primer arrived. Sprayed the primer, wiped away the excess (evaporates really fast anyways). Applied the Locktite to the barrels and inside the bloc, and pressed the monobloc back on to the barrels. It slid on very easy. I was kinda surprised how easy. Wiped off the squeeze-out/excess as fast as I could, and use some of the primer to remove some Locktite that went under the ejectors. No pics, I was working fast because I did not know how quickly the material would dry, or ooze in to an unwanted gap. To my relief, any excess that did dry was easy to chip away from any bare metal, chambers, etc. Now, we wait while it cures. TRG Well now that part in red concerns me more than a little. It should have needed some whacking to seat fully. I suspect that the tolerances between the mono-bloc sleeves and barrels are greater than they should be....which is probably what caused the solder to fail in the first place. If you listen to just one more thing I say in this thread, heed this - when the adhesive cures, test via remote firing ONLY. And I would do it a few times with as stout of a load as you can...if you know anyone that reloads, I might even cook up a couple shells a few thousand PSI over pressure for testing. I've just got this feeling that the boogered receiver and aforementioned out of spec tolerances are setting yourself up for catastrophic failure. Seriously. When those barrels give, it's going to dump all that gas right into the fore end creating a wood & iron grenade. If it were my gun, at this point I would remove the firing pins and hang it on a wall with a picture of me and the old man. Proceed at your own risk. |
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Well, the Locktite and primer arrived. Sprayed the primer, wiped away the excess (evaporates really fast anyways). Applied the Locktite to the barrels and inside the bloc, and pressed the monobloc back on to the barrels. It slid on very easy. I was kinda surprised how easy. Wiped off the squeeze-out/excess as fast as I could, and use some of the primer to remove some Locktite that went under the ejectors. No pics, I was working fast because I did not know how quickly the material would dry, or ooze in to an unwanted gap. To my relief, any excess that did dry was easy to chip away from any bare metal, chambers, etc. Now, we wait while it cures. TRG Well now that part in red concerns me more than a little. It should have needed some whacking to seat fully. I suspect that the tolerances between the mono-bloc sleeves and barrels are greater than they should be....which is probably what caused the solder to fail in the first place. If you listen to just one more thing I say in this thread, heed this - when the adhesive cures, test via remote firing ONLY. And I would do it a few times with as stout of a load as you can...if you know anyone that reloads, I might even cook up a couple shells a few thousand PSI over pressure for testing. I've just got this feeling that the boogered receiver and aforementioned out of spec tolerances are setting yourself up for catastrophic failure. Seriously. When those barrels give, it's going to dump all that gas right into the fore end creating a wood & iron grenade. If it were my gun, at this point I would remove the firing pins and hang it on a wall with a picture of me and the old man. Proceed at your own risk. Juuuust when I was starting to think about going back in the water.... Jaws II is released. TRG |
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Quoted: Quoted: That saddens me. I liked the way the CZ line of SXS shotguns handled. I think they are made by Huglu. What would you recommend for a basic O/U or SxS? Naturally the gun has to fit, but any brands you consider offer good value? I've heard good things about Stoeger. The CZs are hit and miss. One guy I shoot with has a 20 gauge and it does OK, but he's had to replace the firing pins with not a lot of rounds through it. I would not buy one used, ever. Most of the issues I've seen at the club with the CZs seem to be firing pin & spring related. Turk metallurgy. Stoegers are junk. Literally a 100% failure rate in my experience. As a youth shooting coach for my state's Game & Fish dept., I see a lot of kids show up with these budget guns every single week...the parents think that they are doing the kids a favor by getting them an O/U. I can't even begin to count the number of them I've seen go down, and the problems are never consistent. The same can be said for the Mossberg Reserve line of guns. The Stoeger semi auto recoil operated guns seem to have gotten the bugs worked out of them since Benelli took over the line. they seem to be a little ammo sensitive with steel based hulls though. |
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I agree with everything SMT has to say on this project....it could go bad very quickly.
Look back at the first line of the OP thread we probably need to tack this for all the times this question/subject comes up: I wanted an O/U, but, I wanted something affordable Sorry man...but I would not shoot it knowing what you know about this particular gun. |
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That saddens me. I liked the way the CZ line of SXS shotguns handled. I think they are made by Huglu. What would you recommend for a basic O/U or SxS? Naturally the gun has to fit, but any brands you consider offer good value? I've heard good things about Stoeger. The CZs are hit and miss. One guy I shoot with has a 20 gauge and it does OK, but he's had to replace the firing pins with not a lot of rounds through it. I would not buy one used, ever. Most of the issues I've seen at the club with the CZs seem to be firing pin & spring related. Turk metallurgy. Stoegers are junk. Literally a 100% failure rate in my experience. As a youth shooting coach for my state's Game & Fish dept., I see a lot of kids show up with these budget guns every single week...the parents think that they are doing the kids a favor by getting them an O/U. I can't even begin to count the number of them I've seen go down, and the problems are never consistent. The same can be said for the Mossberg Reserve line of guns. The Stoeger semi auto recoil operated guns seem to have gotten the bugs worked out of them since Benelli took over the line. they seem to be a little ammo sensitive with steel based hulls though. Wow. I guess I will have to stick with what has worked for me in the past. I had good luck with Ithaca branded SKBs. I shot a Marrochi (sp?) O/U that was basic but seemed well made. A used Citori or Beretta 686 seems a safe bet too. My go-to shotgun for bird hunting for the last decade has been a Benelli Montefeltro 20. I like it but I have an itch for an O/U or a SxS. I don't know why. I have done this before and have not yet found satisfaction. Perhaps I believe a new shotgun will improve my mediocre shooting skills? |
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That saddens me. I liked the way the CZ line of SXS shotguns handled. I think they are made by Huglu. What would you recommend for a basic O/U or SxS? Naturally the gun has to fit, but any brands you consider offer good value? I've heard good things about Stoeger. The CZs are hit and miss. One guy I shoot with has a 20 gauge and it does OK, but he's had to replace the firing pins with not a lot of rounds through it. I would not buy one used, ever. Most of the issues I've seen at the club with the CZs seem to be firing pin & spring related. Turk metallurgy. Stoegers are junk. Literally a 100% failure rate in my experience. As a youth shooting coach for my state's Game & Fish dept., I see a lot of kids show up with these budget guns every single week...the parents think that they are doing the kids a favor by getting them an O/U. I can't even begin to count the number of them I've seen go down, and the problems are never consistent. The same can be said for the Mossberg Reserve line of guns. The Stoeger semi auto recoil operated guns seem to have gotten the bugs worked out of them since Benelli took over the line. they seem to be a little ammo sensitive with steel based hulls though. The semis are all my source of the recommendation has experience with, so you may well be right. |
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....has to do with the Yildiz in general TRG Not just yours, but pretty much all Turk guns. Take the S&W Elite series of shotguns. S&W learned the lesson on Turkish guns the hard way. They ended up as CDNN specials pretty damn quick after some pretty big marketing hulabaloo. The steel is shit. Some of the old growth walnut that comes out of the country is fantastic and commands top dollar, but it ends there as far as shotguns go. Check out www.shtogunworld.com. The Yildiz guns are not well thought of but the CZ/Huglu guns are generally well liked. My CZ has been fine. |
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Quoted: Wow. I guess I will have to stick with what has worked for me in the past. I had good luck with Ithaca branded SKBs. I shot a Marrochi (sp?) O/U that was basic but seemed well made. A used Citori or Beretta 686 seems a safe bet too. My go-to shotgun for bird hunting for the last decade has been a Benelli Montefeltro 20. I like it but I have an itch for an O/U or a SxS. I don't know why. I have done this before and have not yet found satisfaction. Perhaps I believe a new shotgun will improve my mediocre shooting skills? SKBs are a Jap gun. Jap guns are built like Toyotas. They will run forever but aren't the best handling guns IMO. About two years ago the importer of SKB went tits up. I seem to recall someone buying up all their inventory of parts. Used Citori or 686s are thee way to go. Guys who switch to an O/U from a 'whippy' semi auto like Benellis tend to gain a little more consistency due to there being more forward weight in the barrels resulting in a smoother and more consistent follow through. |
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Quoted: Check of www.shtogunworld.com. The Yildiz guns are not well thought of but the CZ/Huglu guns are generally well liked. My CZ has been fine. Caution - shotgunworld is the glocktalk of shotguns. There is so much nonsense, bullshit, and noise over there it's not a reliable source of factual information. Most of the guys that post over there are casual shooters, hunters, & newbs who think 1,000 rounds a year is an awful lot of shooting. The reloading section can be helpful if you are having trouble with a MEC reloader, but there are 2 or 3 experts who live in that forum that make it mostly unbearable. Trapshooters.com is full of crusty old white guys that shoot 15-30K rounds a year. They are an excellent sounding board for what works in the real world. |
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SKBs are a Jap gun. Jap guns are built like Toyotas. They will run forever but aren't the best handling guns IMO. About two years ago the importer of SKB went tits up. I seem to recall someone buying up all their inventory of parts. Used Citori or 686s are thee way to go. Guys who switch to an O/U from a 'whippy' semi auto like Benellis tend to gain a little more consistency due to there being more forward weight in the barrels resulting in a smoother and more consistent follow through. I had an SKB 100 sxs 20 that didn't handle very well. I could never shoot consistently with it. As for my crappy follow through it usually doesn't matter as I have the reaction speed of a three toed sloth. Even with my wand of a Benelli I have the ability to put the shot where the clay or Grouse used to be. One way or the other I will be getting more instruction before I plop down any more money on a new shotgun. Good instruction is a rational expenditure. Shotguns, though, are so shiny and sparkly... Thanks for the opinions about the brands. |
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I agree with everything SMT has to say on this project....it could go bad very quickly. Look back at the first line of the OP thread we probably need to tack this for all the times this question/subject comes up: I wanted an O/U, but, I wanted something affordable Sorry man...but I would not shoot it knowing what you know about this particular gun. I'll post pics, I promise. TRG |
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This isn't a topic that would typically interest me but if 7M3 and TRG are here you know it will be good.
I am interested in seeing how the Loctite holds, I've heard of barrels being attached using it but was always a bit skeptical. |
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