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Maverick52
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Posted: 8/9/2012 2:03:29 AM

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I picked this up from a friend a couple days ago for $125. He told me straight up that it was his beater gun, and it was in a little bit of rough shape, I didn't have a problem with that due to the price, and the fact that I planned to keep it for the same thing. He said that it had a slug barrel and bird barrel, not sure how long either is, I haven't measured, I'd guess 22" and 26". The shorter "slug" barrel doesn't look like it actually has any rifling in it, but it does have rifle sights. It's got a lot of rust freckles on the barrel, and a spot or two that are roughly dime sized. It has some rust freckles on the inside of the barrel also. The longer barrel has some real faint rust freckles on it towards the chamber end, but the inside looks good. Only weird thing on this one is it has two bead sights? It has a white plastic one on the end where it would normally be, and about halfway down the barrel, it has a brass one that actually looks a bit more like a nipple than a bead, not sure what that is, haven't seen one before. Both barrels are ported also.

My friend said that with a good cleaning and wipe down with oil the rust goes away, but will eventually come back, so I figure if I don't want a rusty gun, I need to coat the barrel somehow. I'm not sure what would be best, I was thinking something like a flat black Alumahyde II? Would that be better than regular flat black Krylon?

The other thing that I noticed is that the action feels a little rough. The gun has plenty of rounds ran through it so it's not that. The only pump I'm used to is my dad's old 870 Wingmaster, maybe it's just smoother naturally? When you pull the forend back it is decently smooth until you hit a slight change in the resistance, then once you meet that change it moves fine again until you get another change in resistance. It's fine as long as you rack it with a little force, but I'm concerned that my wife might not rack it like that when I take her shooting clays. She's only went once(she loved it), and we used my dad's 870 which like I said is much smoother and easier to rack with less force. Do you think it just needs a good cleaning & oiling to smooth out or is the Mossberg just a little rough like that?

Thanks for any advice you might have, and if you know of any good quality mods I should look into let me know, I think this one could use a little tinkering.
Ross
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Posted: 8/9/2012 8:34:47 AM
I bought it's twin for the same price at the local pawn shop.

The two bead sight thing is just a mid-bead. It's smaller size is because the front bead will appear smaller because it's farther out. So they use two different sizes to make things look right. It's a fast, easy to use system that's frankly pretty accurate. The mid-bead acts as sort of a rear sight.

You may want to try and clean it with a better solvent. If the rust wipes away, and then comes right back later, (rather than rusting because it's just bare metal) then the rust is in a little deeper than you're cleaning. Many gun cleaners don't really get all that deep, or actually provide a film of lubrication that can actually cover the rust, and leave it on the metal rather than cleaning it off. Having said that, the steel used in most guns rusts pretty quickly without a finnish, which your's is probably kinda shy on.

Alumahyde would be tougher than Krylon, as would many other finishes going up in price. You get what you pay for. I went with the Krylon, simply because mine is a beater and I figured if it scratches off, it's easy to spot repaint and above all CHEAP. If mine gets a scratch in the metal, it just joins the others already there. The Krylon is just for rust prevention on mine. With any spray-on finish (paint or higher-tech), the key is surface prep. Thin coats are better than thick, and give it plenty of time to dry/cure.

My action was kinda gummy and the safety wouldn't work. I took it all apart and cleaned the heck out of it and it smoothed up quite a bit and the safety (old steel one, not plastic) works great now. Most people never take their shotgun apart and clean the inside. Since you already own it, I'd say clean it like a madman and see how it is.

I put a bird's head pistol grip on mine to play with. If you want a PG, the bird's head is the way to go, but PG's are pretty useless really. They're fun though. The advantages with the bird's head one is you can use the safety easily without the bizarre movements needed with a conventional PG, and because your forearm takes the recoil instead of your hand, it's alot more comfortable to shoot. It looks cool too. But, like I said, they aren't really that useful.

As for what you want to do with it, that's up to you. There isn't as much available as a Rem 870, but still more than enough to waste money on, and have fun with it. Just remember it's only a $125 shotgun, so you can quickly pour in alot more money than might be wise. But have fun with it. There's no reason not to enjoy it.
Ironhandjohn
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Posted: 8/9/2012 1:32:08 PM
Krylon is a good, cheap way to keep rust from forming on Mossberg parts. Here in the humid South I've found that Mossy's bluing rusts VERY quickly, which is why I camo'd the gun with cheap spray paint shortly after I got it.

Mossbergs are not known as smooth-cycling shotguns, but they smooth out with use...... a little bit. They're definitely clunkier to cycle than an 870. It sounds like your gun needs a good cleaning and lube. While it is apart check to see if the action bars are bent or twisted, which will make cycling the gun harder than normal. 500s need a healthy slam to the rear and forward to cycle reliability, so your wife will need to learn not to 'short-shuck' the gun...... at least not the shotgun.

For mods I like a Side-Saddle shell carrier and not much else. Mine has a heat-shield that was a gift from a friend who took it off of his 590. It doesn't do anything(and it doesn't promote rust on my gun due to the thickness of the paint-job under the shield)but it sure does look cool. Pistol grips and pistol grip stocks take away the advantage of having the safety in an ambidextrous location, so I avoid them. If they float 'yer boat, then go for it, however. Since mine is the house gun it doesn't have a sling, either.

For $125 you can have a lot of fun with this gun. I'd give it a rattle-can paint job after a thorough cleaning, and maybe a Side-Saddle. Don't go overboard with the accessories and spend the extra cash on some buckshot and slugs. Mine patterns like a Claymore mine with Sellier & Bellot, but shoots much tighter patterns with better quality ammo from Winchester.

Maverick52
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Posted: 8/9/2012 1:33:44 PM
[Last Edit: 8/9/2012 1:48:34 PM by Maverick52]
Man those were both awesome replys, you really assured me of what I was already thinking in my head. I'm going to give a it a good cleaning today since I have the time and I'll report back if it helped any.

As far as mods, I wasn't thinking of doing much just a few little things if they really help with the comfort/ease of use for the shotgun. I looked at some Wlliams fiber optic sights for the "slug" barrel and I looked at a Limbsaver recoil pad since the one on it currently feels pretty stiff. It already has the metal safety, although it is kinda stiff like yours was, so I guess I don't have to worry about that breaking.

When you painted your barrel with Krylon, did you remove the thumbscrew that holds the barrel to the magazine? I wouldn't think a little paint on it would hurt but I'm just curious. I also wasn't quite sure how to remove the rear sight. It's a Williams sight, but not a fiber optic, and it looks similar to the way this does.
Ironhandjohn
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Posted: 8/9/2012 4:08:15 PM
[Last Edit: 8/9/2012 4:11:11 PM by Ironhandjohn]
The thumbscrew is held captive and won't go anywhere, so I wouldn't worry about it. The big coarse threads will crunch any paint you may get on it without problems. As long as you keep the paint out of the action it won't hurt anything. Even if you do get a bit of overspray on the bolt, pumping the action a bunch will get rid of it. I just unloaded mine, leaned it up against a fence-post, and then went to town with the Krylon. No fancy camo patterns, just broad OD and black stripes with a little tan thrown in for good measure. Over the years it's been painted over and over, so the paint is quite thick. I knocked a few layers off with a green scrubbie pad and now it has an almost reptilian look to the pattern. Weird, but cool...


I can't help you about the sights as mine has a simple bead on it, but taping over anything you don't want painted might be a good idea.
Maverick52
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Posted: 8/9/2012 10:22:07 PM
I was thinking I would just remove the barrel and paint it, remove the sights or tape them off depending on how difficult removing them was. The gun has a wood stock that is in pretty good shape, even with the amount of use the gun had. There is some wear on the finish of the mag tube and receiver also, but not much. If I were to paint anything else on it it would be the mag tube.

I gave it a good thorough cleaning tonight, the "slug" barrel was more pitted than I originally thought, but the rust did come off with some Hoppes Nitro and I stripped it down, cleaned it all up with the Nitro and put some good ole #9 on everything and wiped the barrel down and run the brush and swab through the barrel as well. All the rust came off but I will have to see how long until it returns, I could see that some of the rust spots went through the finish to bare metal so I'm sure I'll have to coat this barrel in something to keep the rust off it for long. The bird barrel cleaned up much better, which I expected since I was told it was rarely used. The action cycles slightly better now that it's clean and lubed, but still not super smooth, oh well. It will be just fine for what it is.

Thanks guys.
DrCyCoe
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Posted: 8/9/2012 10:50:44 PM
Since you are new to shotguns and two shooters will be using it, leave the mid bead on the rib. It does not hurt anything but it can help. If you see space between the two beads, you are holding over. The gun will not fit each of you the same way and It is a quick indicator of a problem. Stand in front of a mirror mount the gun quickly then observe the beads in relationship to each other. If you have a good sight picture the two beads will be lined up. This is why the mid bead is smaller then the front bead and made of a different material, so it does not block out the front bead but rather sits in front of it and also contrasts with color. They are typically added on for things like trap shooting. My first shotgun when I was 14 was a Wingmaster and it got a mid bead right after I took it out shot it at the club I worked at then handed it to the guy who was going to do the work for me.

Do not get fixated on the damn thing either.

Ask your friend if he ever used a vertical grip on the front stock or perhaps a previous owner did. They suck in all ways including the way they torque on the action bars. Over time they ad twist to the bars, which can create the drag you are describing. Inspect the action bars to see if they are bent, twisted or otherwise not true and parallel.

Use Kroil on the rust spots, it is magic.

Polish up the action a bit too.

I only posted this because you are from WI otherwise I would not have given a crap about you.
Maverick52
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Posted: 8/9/2012 11:39:07 PM
Originally Posted By DrCyCoe:
Since you are new to shotguns and two shooters will be using it, leave the mid bead on the rib. It does not hurt anything but it can help. If you see space between the two beads, you are holding over. The gun will not fit each of you the same way and It is a quick indicator of a problem. Stand in front of a mirror mount the gun quickly then observe the beads in relationship to each other. If you have a good sight picture the two beads will be lined up. This is why the mid bead is smaller then the front bead and made of a different material, so it does not block out the front bead but rather sits in front of it and also contrasts with color. They are typically added on for things like trap shooting. My first shotgun when I was 14 was a Wingmaster and it got a mid bead right after I took it out shot it at the club I worked at then handed it to the guy who was going to do the work for me.

Do not get fixated on the damn thing either.

Ask your friend if he ever used a vertical grip on the front stock or perhaps a previous owner did. They suck in all ways including the way they torque on the action bars. Over time they ad twist to the bars, which can create the drag you are describing. Inspect the action bars to see if they are bent, twisted or otherwise not true and parallel.

Use Kroil on the rust spots, it is magic.

Polish up the action a bit too.

I only posted this because you are from WI otherwise I would not have given a crap about you.


Well I can't blame ya for that!

Action bars looked fine when I had it apart. I was planning on taking it apart again to do a little polishing, looked like it could use that. There were a lot of spots on the internals where the finish had worn off, some spots on the receiver also.