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BlahBlah
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Posted: 2/9/2010 12:25:36 PM

THE IMAGE ABOVE IS A PAID ADVERTISEMENT
The Easyloader from Dave's Metal Works (DMW) is probably the single most installed modification on the Remington 1100 for 3-gun shooters today. Ironically, with as many people installing the Easyloader as there are, not on single tutorial exists online (that I could find anyway). So, I decided to do this tutorial to help anyone who might be contemplating installing one on their own 1100 or 11-87.

It should be noted that this is NOT a mod to be undertaken by just anyone. You should have a good grasp of the inner workings of your shotgun before attempting to install the Easyloader. If you have doubts, take it to a gunsmith! I'm not a gunsmith, and it's not my fault if you follow these directions and screw your gun up!

What you get:

The Easyloader is currently available for $34.99 directly from DMW, but a savvy shopper can probably find it for a few dollars less from another retailer. In the package, you get the Easyloader and a new release button roll-pin (not pictured).



What it does:

The Easyloader is designed to do exactly what its name implies... Make it easier to load your shotgun. It replaces the bolt release button in the carrier assembly on Remington 1100 and 11-87 shotguns, and its benefits are twofold: It makes for a very large, ramped target for guiding the shells into the mag tube, and it provides increased leverage, making it much easier to depress than the standard button.

Getting started:

It should be noted that, for the purposes of this tutorial, I am installing the Easyloader in a Remington 1100 TAC-4. The TAC-4 comes with a longer than standard release button (it's the same as the older Competition Master button) from the factory. The install should be the same for any 1100 or 11-87, but your factory parts might look a bit different than mine.

As in my previous tutorials, I won't be covering how to remove and replace the factory trigger group on the shotgun. If you don't know how to do it already and/or can't figure it out, put the tools down and run (don't walk) to a gunsmith.

Let's look at the factory trigger group.





The first step in the installation of the Easyloader is to remove the roll-pin holding in the factory carrier release button using a small punch. You can do this step after removing the carrier from the trigger group, but I found that it was easier to hold on to while still attached.

Make sure to familiarize yourself with the way the factory parts go together before removing this pin!



Once the carrier is off, you can set aside the trigger group. You won't need it for a while.



BlahBlah
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Posted: 2/9/2010 12:26:46 PM
Modifying the carrier:

The instructions that come with the Easyloader are decent, but they are a LOT easier to understand if you can actually visualize what they're telling you to do. So, while looking over the included instructions, hold the Easyloader up to the carrier to get a good understanding of how the two parts fit together, and where you need to file the carrier to accommodate the Easyloader.



Then break out your file and get to work! Start by filing a bit off the sides of the button hole in the carrier to clearance for the hooked tabs on the Easyloader. It won't take much, just enough for the tabs to fit and move freely in the opening. File a bit and test fit, file and test fit. It can't be emphasized enough that you should take it slow and remove very little metal at a time.



When you're done, you should end up with something like this (notice the shiny spots where I've filed):



The other side takes a bit more work to get enough clearance for the short, fat tab on the back of the Easyloader. This area is marked (A) below.



Once you've got the carrier to the point that the Easyloader fits and moves freely, it's time to put everything back together.

Reassembly:

Clean all the metal and plastic shavings off of the trigger group, housing and carrier before you start to reassemble!

If you paid attention when you took everything apart, putting it all back together is pretty easy. Using a 1/16" drill bit to hold everything in place (as recommended in the instructions included with the Easyloader) does work very well, especially for capturing the release button spring. You can also leave it in place and let the new roll-pin chase/push the bit out as you hammer it into place.



As mentioned before, I found it easier to hang on to everything while the carrier was installed on the trigger group (and with an extra pair of hands). It made it much easier for me to drive the new roll-pin into place. As always, though, YMMV.



Once you've got everything assembled and the new pin in place, put the whole thing back into your shotgun. This is where the REAL fitting takes place.

BlahBlah
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Posted: 2/9/2010 12:27:42 PM
Fine tuning:

Perhaps the most confusing thing in the instructions included with the Easyloader is how to fine tune the bolt release point. The instructions mention that the button should release the bolt within its last 1/8" of travel. If it engages too soon, your bolt won't lock back on an empty chamber. If it engages too late, it won't release the bolt.

So... With everything assembled, in the gun and with the bolt locked back on an empty chamber, start pushing up on the end of the Easyloader. It can be difficult to see, but note how far the end of the Easyloader is from the carrier (marked below) when the bolt releases. If it is more than 1/8" you'll need to do some fine tuning.



If you need to tune your Easyloader (most people will), remove the trigger group assembly from the gun, and then remove the carrier assembly.

To adjust the carrier release point, you will have to file the back side of the long, triangular leg on the back of the Easyloader (pictured below). This is the most time consuming part of the entire install process because you'll want to file a bit, reassemble and test. Rinse and repeat until the button releases the bolt within its last 1/8" of travel (a little less is okay, a little more is not).



Once you think everything is fit the way it should be, quickly rack the bolt in the shotgun and let it fly a few times. If things are adjusted correctly, the bolt should lock open on the empty chamber. If it slams shut, you have more fitting to do.

Once you've got everything fitted and adjusted, it's time to reassemble the gun and head out to the range to test it out. Cycling things by hand is a good indicator of how things are working, but no test is quite as good as live fire. During live fire testing you may find that you need to do more adjusting. If so, follow the previous fine tuning procedure until everything works as intended.

All the fitting can be a huge pain in the butt, but when you're all finished, you'll have the fastest reloading setup (outside of "Open Class" speed loaders) available for your 3-gun or home defense Remington semi-auto shotgun.





Big props to my Dad who was in town for the weekend and helped with the "gun projects" and picture taking! Sometimes you just need that third (or fourth) hand and second set of eyes to make sure things go back together with no leftover bits.

MattNificent
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Posted: 2/9/2010 12:44:11 PM
great post! i still think one of these attached to an 870 would make loading shells easier/quicker...
cookhj
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Posted: 2/9/2010 12:56:40 PM
i had one on an 1100 i built a few years ago. to keep shells from getting jammed between the ez loader and the follower, it's a good idea to remove about a half an inch from the end of the ez loader. it's still works like a charm but keeps it from jamming up. oh, and you get WECSOG points for using a dremel.
GunCat
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Posted: 2/9/2010 1:50:59 PM
Very good information! Thank you.

This is one of those jobs I only do occasionally and alway spend more time trying to remember details than the job actually takes. I’ll save your instructions and pictures in my notebook.
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Cixelsyd
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Posted: 2/9/2010 2:10:46 PM
So if the one I installed a few years back doesn't lock the bolt back when empty, then I need to file on the rear triangle a little more?
I thought I fubar'd something and bought a replacement trigger group. Maybe I need to try tuning it some.

Great job, BTW.

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BlahBlah
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Posted: 2/9/2010 3:23:15 PM

Originally Posted By Cixelsyd:
So if the one I installed a few years back doesn't lock the bolt back when empty, then I need to file on the rear triangle a little more?

That should do it!

I didn't say so in my tutorial but I actually had to file quite a bit off the back of the triangle leg of the Easyloader. I didn't say that because I figured someone would just break out the dremel and have at it without test fitting along the way. Every gun is different, and they need to be filed and checked accordingly.
GunCat
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Posted: 2/9/2010 10:22:11 PM
Originally Posted By cookhj:
i had one on an 1100 i built a few years ago. to keep shells from getting jammed between the ez loader and the follower, it's a good idea to remove about a half an inch from the end of the ez loader. it's still works like a charm but keeps it from jamming up. oh, and you get WECSOG points for using a dremel.


Shortened like this? (borrowed from the BrianEnos forum)



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cookhj
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Posted: 2/14/2010 1:36:04 PM
Originally Posted By GunCat:
Originally Posted By cookhj:
i had one on an 1100 i built a few years ago. to keep shells from getting jammed between the ez loader and the follower, it's a good idea to remove about a half an inch from the end of the ez loader. it's still works like a charm but keeps it from jamming up. oh, and you get WECSOG points for using a dremel.


Shortened like this? (borrowed from the BrianEnos forum)

http://www.ericwesselman.com/images/1100_LoadingPort50.jpg



exactly!

after i installed mine, i occasionally had a problem of shells getting stuck between the ez loader and the follower. i was reading either here or some other forum and someone suggested cutting down the ez loader. never had a problem of stuck shells again and the ex loader still worked like it was supposed to.
hrt4me
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Posted: 2/14/2010 5:56:14 PM
Thanks for the great info!
benjio
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Posted: 2/15/2010 2:31:10 PM
Is this mod designed for the home defense crowd or for hunting applications also?

I use my 11-87 for bird hunting, and I must say, the ONE thing I don't like about it is the stupid bolt release tucked so far up under there. It's sometimes a little difficult to engage with thick gloves on. Is there any reason not to do this to a strictly hunting gun? Is it gonna catch on stuff as I'm toting it around or close the bolt when I don't want it to? thanks.



cheers, Benji
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cookhj
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Posted: 2/19/2010 1:27:04 PM
Originally Posted By benjio:
Is this mod designed for the home defense crowd or for hunting applications also?

I use my 11-87 for bird hunting, and I must say, the ONE thing I don't like about it is the stupid bolt release tucked so far up under there. It's sometimes a little difficult to engage with thick gloves on. Is there any reason not to do this to a strictly hunting gun? Is it gonna catch on stuff as I'm toting it around or close the bolt when I don't want it to? thanks.



cheers, Benji


i wouldn't use one on a hunting shotgun. the one i had made the bolt release alot easier to activate because of the increased leverage and surface area. you could probably cut it down enough that it won't catch on stuff but you'd have to keep your hands clear of the under side of the shotgun to make sure you don't hit the ez loader.
hrt4me
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Posted: 8/16/2010 7:08:55 PM
Originally Posted By cookhj:
i had one on an 1100 i built a few years ago. to keep shells from getting jammed between the ez loader and the follower, it's a good idea to remove about a half an inch from the end of the ez loader. it's still works like a charm but keeps it from jamming.


I'm having a similar issue with my Benelli M1S90, so I may have to shorten my modified loading chute...
Johnny_C
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Posted: 8/19/2010 6:01:27 PM

I am planning to add one of these to
my 1100 Special, and my release
button seems smaller than the one
shown in the beginning of this thread.

Will this be a problem?

Thanks for such a well done DIY thread.

John
BlahBlah
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Posted: 8/19/2010 8:49:21 PM
[Last Edit: 8/19/2010 8:50:09 PM by BlahBlah]

Originally Posted By BlahBlah:
It should be noted that, for the purposes of this tutorial, I am installing the Easyloader in a Remington 1100 TAC-4. The TAC-4 comes with a longer than standard release button (it's the same as the older Competition Master button) from the factory. The install should be the same for any 1100 or 11-87, but your factory parts might look a bit different than mine.

You're good to go!
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Johnny_C
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Posted: 8/19/2010 9:11:12 PM
[Last Edit: 8/19/2010 9:13:04 PM by Johnny_C]
Doh!...I didn't realize there was any instructions in the thread!

You know, males only look at the pictures!

Thanks Blah!

John

unclemoak
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Posted: 8/28/2010 12:30:31 AM
[Last Edit: 8/28/2010 12:31:51 AM by unclemoak]
Apparently I didn't do something right during the install because my shotgun won't cycle now and the bolt really won't lock back.

I read that the bolt should close within the last 1/8" of travel. Well it seems that the bolt doesn't want to close until the easy loader is pushed up into the receiver and the bolt won't lock back either.

When I shoot it. I have to push the easy loader up into the action to get it to go into battery before I can take the next shot.

Any suggestions?


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themistocles3
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Posted: 9/7/2010 1:30:35 AM
I just did this mod to my tact4 hoping it would speed my reloads. It did, but it didn't help my FTF issue. Has anyone else here had this problem? The previous shell ejects and the next one lands in the carrier but doesn't get released and elevated let alone chambered. This happens about 2 to 3% of the time with hot premium factory loads. Doesn't like light loads at all. Changed out the seal and the piston already just in case but that had no effect. I love the platform but I'm about to give up and buy a Benelli.
unclemoak
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Posted: 9/7/2010 8:08:58 AM

Originally Posted By themistocles3:
I just did this mod to my tact4 hoping it would speed my reloads. It did, but it didn't help my FTF issue. Has anyone else here had this problem? The previous shell ejects and the next one lands in the carrier but doesn't get released and elevated let alone chambered. This happens about 2 to 3% of the time with hot premium factory loads. Doesn't like light loads at all. Changed out the seal and the piston already just in case but that had no effect. I love the platform but I'm about to give up and buy a Benelli.


Sounds like your shells aren't coming out of the magazine tube with enough force to trip the release. I'd try lubricating the action real well and maybe consider installing a heavy duty magazine spring.
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cookhj
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Posted: 9/12/2010 8:54:40 PM
when i built my 1100 i had the barrel cut down to 18.5". when i did that i couldn't get it to cycle reliably. i had to have the gas port opened up quite a bit to get it to cycle, but it finally worked.
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Posted: 10/13/2010 8:01:52 AM
[Last Edit: 2/3/2011 7:12:34 PM by gotigers]
get some extra roll pins from the local hardware store. I got my extras from TSC.
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Posted: 1/5/2011 11:17:47 PM
[Last Edit: 1/5/2011 11:37:27 PM by Forgetfull]
Is it really necessary to file the easy loader so that it releases the bolt in the last 1/8 in of travel??


I installed mine and the bolt seems to lock back fine and it releases in about the first 1/8 or 1/4 in of travel.
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Posted: 1/9/2012 12:23:58 PM
Thanks for the writeup. Now I need to go to the range. I put it on my goose gun because it can be a royal pain in the ass to put a 3.5 inch shell in that gun. I'll let you know how it works on a hunting firearm.
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Posted: 2/23/2012 6:24:12 PM
[Last Edit: 2/23/2012 6:46:40 PM by JKH62]
I just put my easyloader on my 11-97 police and no issues, other than the normal filing needed for clearance.
As an added bonus my release point it dead nuts perfect with no filing needed to adjust bolt release point.

Now to the range..............


A side question~

How many of you shortened your easyloader??? I was tempted to cut mine down in length but I decided to wait & see how it works of if I have issues.
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Posted: 2/23/2012 7:05:18 PM
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