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Posted: 9/2/2014 6:26:28 AM EDT
Apparently you have to break the safety lever and stretch the frame with pliers to remove the locking insert and trigger.

http://youtu.be/SEfsHwHb3bs
Link Posted: 9/2/2014 6:41:31 AM EDT
[#1]
I'm going to go our on a limb and ask "why do you feel those last 2 parts need to come out ?"

If it were mine , I would break iit down to that point , clean & lune with a little CLP and be done with it
Link Posted: 9/2/2014 10:47:02 AM EDT
[#2]
One of my friends with armorer certs that regularly detail strips his pistols to do trigger jobs on them said after seeing that video he'd never buy an FNX-45 because stretching the frame is a "no no" and if the trigger bar spring were to break it requires being sent to the factory to be done properly, and in a SHTF scenario that can't be done, and for a SIG all he'd have to do is pull off a grip panel and replace the spring, and he doesn't buy guns he can't service himself.

His words, not mine. I told him guns aren't meant to be detail stripped often and in a SHTF scenario that bad you'd have to improvise as you would be with a bunch of other things anyway.
Link Posted: 9/3/2014 12:14:30 AM EDT
[#3]

Quoted:


Apparently you have to break the safety lever and stretch the frame with pliers to remove the locking insert and trigger.



http://youtu.be/SEfsHwHb3bs
View Quote

I mentioned in the video that it used to be thought that you had to break the safety on the FNP series to remove it. Those two holes were discovered. The early FNX's used a blind roll pin that required drilling/breaking off. From my latest check they've moved to a set screw.










As fast as spreading the frame, I'm sure there must be an armor's tool for it, but it has to be done otherwise that locking block has a good mount of material that it locks into the side rails. FNH states that the rails can be replaced, and they designed the gun, so one would assume that the gun can handle it?



 

Link Posted: 9/3/2014 9:30:39 AM EDT
[#4]
That was my argument, that there was flex built into the polymer frame to withstand recoil impulses and the slight prying it took to get the locking block out wasn't going to warp or damage the frame.

He said "plastic isn't supposed to flex." Needless to say, that's not true in the context of polymers used by the firearms industry.
Link Posted: 9/3/2014 10:04:22 AM EDT
[#5]
Alright, I spoke to John over at FNH USA tech support. He says there is in fact a proprietary method of removing the unlock block that doesn't involve prying the frame, they don't sell the tool to do so or disclose what that method is, and they don't offer armorer classes.

So, final verdict: Not a design flaw intended for prying the frame, but a proprietary method and tool is used to remove the locking block, all of which is undisclosed at this time.

The pliers are an end user improvisation. The question now is, in the future, does one carefully proceed with the pliers method, or take a really careful look at the part assembly and try to figure out how the proprietary method/tool works, and maybe try to reverse engineer it?
Link Posted: 9/4/2014 12:26:09 AM EDT
[#6]

Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


Alright, I spoke to John over at FNH USA tech support. He says there is in fact a proprietary method of removing the unlock block that doesn't involve prying the frame, they don't sell the tool to do so or disclose what that method is, and they don't offer armorer classes.



So, final verdict: Not a design flaw intended for prying the frame, but a proprietary method and tool is used to remove the locking block, all of which is undisclosed at this time.



The pliers are an end user improvisation. The question now is, in the future, does one carefully proceed with the pliers method, or take a really careful look at the part assembly and try to figure out how the proprietary method/tool works, and maybe try to reverse engineer it?
View Quote

That's where I was left in the video. Anything prior I could find said to get it out you had to press the frame outward. I guess without sitting the gun down in front of an engineer and asking them how to defy the law of physics to remove the locking block and frame rails, (unless somehow their tool presses the frame rails into each other, but I still can't see that either), this is the best I had to offer.


Per Brass Fetcher, I see some decent frame flexing when firing polymer guns:








 
Link Posted: 9/4/2014 1:31:01 AM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
I'm going to go our on a limb and ask "why do you feel those last 2 parts need to come out ?"

If it were mine , I would break iit down to that point , clean & lune with a little CLP and be done with it
View Quote



Probably because most other other modern polymer pistols can be detail stripped with a paperclip.

Of course, you break the paperclip.  So maybe FN has them there.
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