I cleaned my 22/45 a few minutes ago and got it back together, but it will not function after reassembly. The mainspring housing won't come out until I smack the gun to get the hammer forward every time I take it apart, and when it goes back together, it won't fire. It's acting like the safety is permanently engaged.

Anyone know how to fix this? I need to get it working again so I can sell this fucking thing for a gun that doesn't require a PhD in voodoo black magic to operate....


ETA: Got it, I guess the hammer strut wasn't properly seated: https://www.thehighroad.org/index.php?threads/got-problem-after-disassembly-ruger-22-45-mark-iii-please-help.303357/#post-3728277

I guess I wasn't holding my mouth right when I put it back together? I dunno. This gun is stupid.

Heck , send that stupid orphan to me , I have never had a Ruger 22/45. Might be a new adventure.

How much do you want for it?
Look at some youtube videos.  It's really not that hard when you get the hang of it, but it can be frustrating in the beginning.

Before you try to swing the mainspring housing shot make sure that you've pushed the hammer forwa, and that the barrel is pointing straight up. That will make sure the hammer strut is in the right spot.  Which barrel pointing up pull the trigger, remove the mag, and then swing the mainspring shut.

I've reassembled this thing a bunch of times, but never had an issue with the hammer strut like this - usually when it's not seated properly the mainspring housing won't close.

Oh well. At least it shoots well once it's back together.

I have no clue what the re-occuring topic problem is with Ruger's ancient take down system.  As a sub-10 year old in the 1950's, I picked potatoes at 5 cents a bushel until I collected $37.50.  The local hardware ordered me in a Ruger RST-6.  The Ruger Standard Model 6" .22LR of the 1950's.

I actually read the paper instructions.  

The first day, I sat behind my house and burned a brick of Rem22LRHS 40grain ammo of the era that may not yet have been called Golden Bullets, but I had a case of them copper plated as they are today.  Earned the case at 5 cents a bushel.

The gun was dirty.

It was cleaned and re-assembled that day by a 8 or 9 year old.  The same continued periodically until the guts of the gun were so worn out it was approaching unsafe.  Roughly a case a year for 20 years.  It then got tossed in the back of the safe.  A Competition/Target 6 7/8" version replaced it.  30 years later, Ruger rebuilt the RST-6 to new and refinished the metal at the factory.  At only four times its purchase price.  But I digress.

The only "trick" to the re-assembly process is to actually look at the tang of the hammer strut and SEE IT ENTER the little groovee in the top of the hammer spring assembly as you close up the system.  If you actually watch it close up in the right spot, there is never any error.  But then again, I could read fairly early even in Bubba Land.

To get the receiver off the frame, wack the end of the barrel with a soft shoe.  To put it back on, wack the back of the receiver with the same soft shoe.  Or as an adult, use a rubber mallet with no metal filings in it.

The new Mk.IV falling apart as you open it is for sandbox vets.  Guns that fall apart are not really needed if you understand the system of the older ones.

(This topic occasionally surfaces.  Usually in the format of the gun is too dirty to shoot and too hard to clean properly.  The above post contains specific (1) context, (2) experiences, and (3) two separate suggestions for dis/re-assembly of the exact firearm system.  A young kid that reads the instructions can do it correctly.  Reading was an essential skill in the 1950's and is still a handy life skill.  YouTube had not been invented yet to replace reading manuals.  Ruger did and continues to supply very detailed dis/re-assembly instructions with their firearms.  They really should be read.  Their web site has automatic links to the same exact instruction manuals model specific should the original be lost.)

Congratulations? Thanks for your condescending post that was not helpful at all, I guess.

Lots of attitude here, and you added nothing that was helpful.

More useful and sufficiently PC.

In the proper Ruger RST-6 manual for the era, refer to pages 9 and 10 and see item 6.

https://ruger-docs.s3.amazonaws.com/_manuals/markI.pdf

Or more easily:

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