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Posted: 5/15/2015 1:18:06 AM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Reading the advice here, I put in a Volq sear and a TK bushing. But I can not get the LCI out to save my life. Any ideas? I have the Blue lite. I have a blue lite also and mine wouldnt come out. I ripped out the plastic and cut into the pin, letting me leverage it out with a knife. |
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Posted: 5/15/2015 11:07:06 PM EDT
[#2]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
For those with fastfires on lites, what did you do about it not fitting flush on the rail? Just tighten it down real well canted one way or the other? So Im not the only one with this issue!!?? My FF is slightly canted, drive me nuts... Is there a fix? |
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Posted: 5/16/2015 4:58:09 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So Im not the only one with this issue!!?? My FF is slightly canted, drive me nuts... Is there a fix? Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
For those with fastfires on lites, what did you do about it not fitting flush on the rail? Just tighten it down real well canted one way or the other? So Im not the only one with this issue!!?? My FF is slightly canted, drive me nuts... Is there a fix? Not an easy one that I know of. The problem is the rail on top of the lites is a weaver. the fastfire mount is for a picatinny. The weaver is shallower I believe, causing the bar to bottom out before the mount is flush on top. Aside from just tightening it down (which is a temporary band aid at best) we will need a true picatinny rail. |
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Posted: 5/18/2015 1:49:59 PM EDT
[#4]
VQ sear in hand.
Bruce Patza LCI filler, TK hammer bushing and TK slingshot en route. Should be a sweet shooter with the Spectre II on there. Next step is a red dot and a bottom rail for a weapon light. |
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Posted: 5/18/2015 1:56:40 PM EDT
[#5]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
VQ sear in hand. Bruce Patza LCI filler, TK hammer bushing and TK slingshot en route. Should be a sweet shooter with the Spectre II on there. Next step is a red dot and a bottom rail for a weapon light. You are going to want a good set of locking forceps to put that sucker in. Kind of a pain in the ass to position just right. |
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Posted: 5/18/2015 2:05:35 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
You are going to want a good set of locking forceps to put that sucker in. Kind of a pain in the ass to position just right. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
VQ sear in hand. Bruce Patza LCI filler, TK hammer bushing and TK slingshot en route. Should be a sweet shooter with the Spectre II on there. Next step is a red dot and a bottom rail for a weapon light. You are going to want a good set of locking forceps to put that sucker in. Kind of a pain in the ass to position just right. Screw that. I don't have the time nor the patience or tools. I'll be paying a local guy to put it all in. $30 and 3 days later. |
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Posted: 5/18/2015 2:13:02 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Screw that. I don't have the time nor the patience or tools. I'll be paying a local guy to put it all in. $30 and 3 days later. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
VQ sear in hand. Bruce Patza LCI filler, TK hammer bushing and TK slingshot en route. Should be a sweet shooter with the Spectre II on there. Next step is a red dot and a bottom rail for a weapon light. You are going to want a good set of locking forceps to put that sucker in. Kind of a pain in the ass to position just right. Screw that. I don't have the time nor the patience or tools. I'll be paying a local guy to put it all in. $30 and 3 days later. It's not too horrible after you get it figured out. Should be 20 minutes or less even with no experience. It's just lining up the tiny spring and making sure it all is in the right position to lock up. With any mechanical aptitude you can knock it out. That said, $30 to have someone else do it is pretty tempting too lol |
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Posted: 5/19/2015 7:51:28 PM EDT
[#8]
My gunsmith recommended the Majestic arms speed strip kit.
Thoughts? |
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Posted: 5/20/2015 1:11:11 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryI've heard mixed reviews about it. Some folks love the kit and others say the replacement hammer is iffy. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 8:50:36 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not an easy one that I know of. The problem is the rail on top of the lites is a weaver. the fastfire mount is for a picatinny. The weaver is shallower I believe, causing the bar to bottom out before the mount is flush on top. Aside from just tightening it down (which is a temporary band aid at best) we will need a true picatinny rail. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
For those with fastfires on lites, what did you do about it not fitting flush on the rail? Just tighten it down real well canted one way or the other? So Im not the only one with this issue!!?? My FF is slightly canted, drive me nuts... Is there a fix? Not an easy one that I know of. The problem is the rail on top of the lites is a weaver. the fastfire mount is for a picatinny. The weaver is shallower I believe, causing the bar to bottom out before the mount is flush on top. Aside from just tightening it down (which is a temporary band aid at best) we will need a true picatinny rail. I have tried a volquartsen, and a storm works rail. Both rails have the same issue. It cants slightly to the right. Wondering now if its the fast fire it self, or the mounting bracket... Holds zero fine, everything works, its just ever so slightly canted... Drives me nuts.. |
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Posted: 6/16/2015 12:12:15 AM EDT
[#11]
Dont forget about the Burris Dovetail Mount for these guys - I used the factory rail for a short while before I realized how much simpler it was to use.
Here's a pic of my old setup. 
Here's the mount by itself. 
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