Looking to do my first 1911 trigger job on my SW1911SC and am stuck on who I want to buy the parts from.
Wilson
Ed brown
Cylinder & Slide
EGW

Having the proper tools and educational material ( books are better than computers for sure) is more important than who's parts. Any of those makers are fine. It is the final fitting that makes the difference. Have to start somewhere of course but the realistic expectation is not to expect your first 1911 tinkering expedition to turn out all that great

Why buy parts at all?  Replacing the FCG doesn't guarantee a good trigger.  

With some research, practice, and a minimum of tools, you can get an excellent trigger with the factory parts.   Medium 6" stone, fine 6" stone, and something like the Brown sear jig at a minimum.  

Most of the weight of the trigger is in the sear spring, and adjusting it is part of any trigger job.  Learn how to do that first.  Look up the Weigand 2.5 pound trigger job article.

The first two posters are correct.  However, when you are ready to purchase and install new fire control parts then the correct answer to your question would be, none of the above.  Harrison Custom is who you seek to provide you with the very highest quality 1911 parts.

Also keep in mind that when you replace the hammer and sear, there is a good chance that you will also have to purchase and fit a new thumb safety.

I've had good results with the Cylinder and Slide Tactical II set.

Never noticed that.

The 'relatively' high loading of the sear on the full cock notch puts a premium on a polished surface on each part and correct geometry.

Bad geometry can  further cock the hammer as you try and move the sear producing a horribly heavy pull.

The sear spring is ounces in a pull that measures pounds.

Many is the 1911 I have owned and worked on that has benefited from little more than a sear spring adjustment.

Given that each leg of the sear spring can commonly contribute 2 pounds of pressure or more toward the trigger pull itself -- and this is easily measured by using a pull gauge without a sear even installed -- I disagree.  Jack Weigand, in his article, asserts that the combined weight of the sear and disconnector legs of the spring should provide a minimum of 16 oz of pressure.  Every professional trigger job I have seen has also had the springs set up similarly; you simply can't get a light trigger with a very heavy amount of pressure from both sear spring legs.

Most manufacturers put a pretty good finish on the sear primary surface, and it is generally set close to the proper angle.  Unfortunately they rarely spend any time tuning the sear spring; they set it to be "safe" and don't overly concern themselves about getting the weight down.   More often, I see problems with the surface itself, i.e. the primary surface is significantly narrower than 0.030" or there is no secondary relief cut at all, resulting in a long, creepy pull.    

Obviously, there are exceptions.  Improperly cut parts or improper distance between sear / hammer pins can contribute to a real nightmare, and sometimes the triggers themselves have so much mass that it isn't possible to get a very light pull simply due to the trigger's tendency to bounce back and trip the sear.

The Harrison/Warner True Radius sear has a radiused primary engagement surface which neatly sidesteps the "positive/negative/neutral" engagement debate at the trifling cost of a "rolling" trigger pull.  They are easy to deal with and require little to no adjustment.

So that radiused sear is better than the other options I listed even if they are properly set up? I don't want any creep and would like it to be as crisp as possible.

The other thing about Harrison and even some of the options I've listed myself is they don't make a two tone hammer. While I know looks are not number 1 I do find them important on some of my firearms and I really would like one that matches my pistol like the one I will be taking off of it.  


I guess I could use this Wilson hammer with the rest of the Harrison parts but...

Also consider ordering a new thumb safety as one will probably have to be fitted with the new ignition parts.

Also have you considered Smith And Wesson performance center. They do nice work .

Also from the legal stand point all work was done by the factory so the gun is basicly factory stock.

The radiused sear isn't very crisp, it has a rolling break meaning some light smooth creep.  I know Wilson makes a two tone MIM hammer.  I've used them, they are fine for anything short of a hard use gun.

EGW was always my goto parts place for trigger parts.

Harrison Ignition Set with Hammer & TR Sear.