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Posted: 10/13/2016 9:06:17 PM EDT
[#1]
I've owned 2 and both were great. I did attempt to shoot some steel case stuff and it would not feed well at all..
I was being cheap and wanted to shoot so I bought a few boxes of wolf or Tula or something.. The 2 calibers I had were 40s&w and 45. I had a conversion to 10mm set up for the 40, and it ran well with full house loads.. The mags are best if you tune them there are some you tube videos on it. They run good and have excellent triggers, you can buy from Dawson precision and have them tuned straight from the box by them.. they do good work. |
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Posted: 10/13/2016 9:52:08 PM EDT
[#2]
Way better off having one buit by a reputable smith.If you buy a stock sti, you have a 50% chance it will run out of the box. Most of the factory parts, recoil spring, trigger parts, amd misc stuff will need to be replaced.You will end up being money ahead buying a custom gun.Actually if I was starting from scratch, I wouldn't even use sti parts, I would use phoenix trinity.
Take it from a guy who has been there.Limcat custom will make you a pistol that will not only be more reliable then a glock, but if you can manage to break it, Johnny will fix it for free. |
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Posted: 10/14/2016 12:49:53 AM EDT
[#3]
Mine has been 100% reliable out of the box. 2011 HexTac DS 9mm 4.0.
I've only used STI mags and had no issues yet. I think I'm nearing 900round mark. The absolute only issue I had, I believe was a factory build issue. Gun shot very very low. They should have shipped it out with a .375" rear sight to match the .140 front blade. I replaced the factory with a 10-8 performance u notch "tall" and it's been the tits ever since. |
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Posted: 10/14/2016 12:35:51 PM EDT
[#4]
My DVC Limited 40 required some extractor tuning to run right. I also had to replace the sear spring around 1300 rounds because it wouldn't hold tension any longer. It started hammer-following. You could bend the spring to increase tension, put it back together, cycle it 2-3 times, and it would start again. Replaced the spring and it's been great since. All in all I still love the gun and would buy it over again.
I also have a Tactical DS 5.0 in 40 that is 100% reliable, but it was previously owned by a gunsmith who builds 2011s. I know he reamed the chamber so it will run ammo loaded as long as 1.200" (2011s in 40 generally prefer longer ammo than normal specs), but I'm not sure if he did anything else. I've used STI factory magazines, STI tubes with aftermarket guts, and MBX magazines. All have been fine for me. The mag tuning thing gets blown out of proportion. It is really only an issue when you start trying to cram extra rounds in the mag, and even then as long as the bullet is pointed into the chamber (not up in the air or at the bottom of the ramp) you're fine. If you compete with them and stomp them into the dirt every weekend you'll eventually need to adjust the feed lips, and Dawson sells a kit that comes with great instructions for $100. |
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Posted: 10/15/2016 12:48:23 AM EDT
[#5]
Thanks for the input guys.
Are there aftermarket available magazines, I am finding it difficult to find 140 and 170mm mags online. Also the cost of a $80+ per mag is hurting me from biting the bullet too. I did consider building one. I don't know what some other smiths re charging, but one smith I regularly use for various projects quoted me $1000 for labor for a basic 2011 build (fitting/blending all parts, slide prep [sight cuts, serrations etc], refinishing, barrel fitting etc). Assuming I supply all the parts. I was roughly estimating close to 1300 in parts alone. That was pricing with STI though since I want to build a Commander/4" size 2011. It would be easier on the pockets as I could slowly acquire parts and work it up at a pace, but would be spending more overall. |
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Posted: 10/15/2016 2:22:13 AM EDT
[#6]
MBX makes magazines, arguably the best. Also a lot more than $80.
There are a few places like Brazos and Dawson who sell tuned STI tubes with other guts in them. Also a lot more than $80. |
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Posted: 10/15/2016 10:34:39 AM EDT
[#7]
Having owned several and worked on more, I don't think there is much wrong with STI's double stacks that can't easily be addressed. After a little TLC, they all run fine. Their parts are decent, certainly no worse than any other production 1911, though not as nice as the all-billet offerings from custom shops.
I think the issue is that when people buy a STI, they are expecting a semi-custom level of fit and finish, and it just isn't there. It's a notch above Colt or Kimber, but not close to Wilson / Brown fitting. Basically a massaged production gun. The areas I've had to work on most have been the feed ramp, slide stop and extractor, but each gun is different. 9mm 2011s seem to be the least problematic. Once you can get the magazines running (a problem I think is overblown on the internet), they tend to run with no issues until the spring needs to be replaced. |
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Posted: 10/17/2016 7:58:13 PM EDT
[#8]
STI "Edge" owner in 9mm here. Mine has been 100% but way less than 200rds thru it. Damn thing runs like a Swiss watch though............
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Posted: 10/17/2016 9:05:42 PM EDT
[#9]
Have two 2011 guns, STI & SVI. Have shot them for several years with out any major problems other than replacing recoil springs and firing pin. The mags are SVI that I bought before the 94 AWB. Changed out the followers/springs from originals to Gram components. They work great. Guns are in 40 S&W.
Shot the SVI last weekend without any problems other than me missing targets, not moving fast enough. I blame that on being 66 and not in the greatest shape. |
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Posted: 10/17/2016 9:10:16 PM EDT
[#10]
I have two, one in 9mm with 14,328 rounds on it and a 40 with 2,947 rounds. Both were customized by a local smith. I've experienced some malfunctions from time to time as the guns wore in and due to some of the choices we made building it. A competent smith can easily correct the problems.
2011's are not "out of the box" reliable like an issue gun. They need tuning, especially if you want a crisp 3# trigger and other razor's edge mods. They require more periodic gunsmith attention, usually much more than a normal shooter can do. If you're okay with that, they are the finest handguns on the planet. They shoot circles around anything that even comes close. |
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Posted: 10/17/2016 9:12:20 PM EDT
[#11]
I wouldn't recommend spending big bucks for the tuned mags unless you shoot competition and are on your way up the classification ladder. I have had good luck with the factory STI mags, at least in 9 and .45. I have a bunch of SVI mags for .40 so that's what I usually use there.
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Posted: 10/19/2016 2:00:53 PM EDT
[#12]
Quoted:
I have an STI Ranger II. I love the fit and finish of it. STI seems to be very well regarded for their race guns. So I am contemplating getting a STI 2011 Tac DS in 9mm to replace the Sig P229R I had. I was looking for a double stack 9mm and have Glocks and wanted something a bit different than your other options like SW MPs, Springfields etc. I have always admired race guns, so naturally I kind of leaned towards STIs. Doing some reading on STIs, I was reading that they needed to be tuned periodically it seems. From parts wearing out after 500-1000 rounds or magazines needing to be adjusted. I just wanted to hear peoples' experiences with them and at what round count. I like the Tac DS since it is not a true race gun, but has some race gun blood in it. But hoping that tolerances are a little more forgiving for use other than just competition. If STI 2011 are real finicky, I might just have my gunsmith build me a 2011 that can be used for with a defensive role in mind. I am just hoping if you are paying ~$1900 for a STI 2011 Tac, that it will just run well for a long time. What is everyone's take on STI 2011s? My experience does not mirror this point. I've had two now, and once they ran, they ran like raped-apes for quite some time. My current limited gun took a bit to get going. Now that it has, it's at 15k+ rounds and shows no-signs of stopping. |
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Posted: 10/19/2016 8:25:19 PM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've had two now, and once they ran, they ran like raped-apes for quite some time. My current limited gun took a bit to get going. Now that it has, it's at 15k+ rounds and shows no-signs of stopping. What kind of tuning was required to get your particular guns running? I don't want to buy a complete gun and have to replace a bunch of internals when I can just have one built with good guts to start. I am still on the fence with a factory gun vs buying a frame kit/components and having a smith fit everything together. |
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Posted: 10/19/2016 8:55:17 PM EDT
[#14]
I like my 45. NP3-treated mags run very nice.
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Posted: 10/20/2016 12:00:28 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
What kind of tuning was required to get your particular guns running? I don't want to buy a complete gun and have to replace a bunch of internals when I can just have one built with good guts to start. I am still on the fence with a factory gun vs buying a frame kit/components and having a smith fit everything together. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
I've had two now, and once they ran, they ran like raped-apes for quite some time. My current limited gun took a bit to get going. Now that it has, it's at 15k+ rounds and shows no-signs of stopping. What kind of tuning was required to get your particular guns running? I don't want to buy a complete gun and have to replace a bunch of internals when I can just have one built with good guts to start. I am still on the fence with a factory gun vs buying a frame kit/components and having a smith fit everything together. Bit of a story. My current gun was my dad's gun. I had a short dust cover, bushing barrel limited gun. It was built by someone else, and I was at least the third owner. It ran fine from the start. When I got back from overseas, I took my dad's factory STI Edge. He said he couldn't get it to run reliably. Had tried factory, and reman ammo. He had the gun sent back to STI. They replaced the barrel. It was improved, but still not reliable. My dad then had a local smith ream the chamber to exact SAAMI spec. Still not totally reliable. That is the point when I swapped guns with my dad (since I shoot way more, and compete regularly, we figured I had the time and energy to get it going). When I got it from him, the extractor had virtually no tension. Tensioned it, and had a friend polish it up. I did that, and switched to a U-die. At the same time, I also started case-gauging my match ammo. It's ran flawless every since. I haven't switched back to a full-size die to test with that. But since I made all those changes, it's ran damn near flawless. I've had three failures to fully feed in the last 10k-ish rounds. None of those occurred with ammo that had been case-gauged. I've had the slide lightened, trigger work done etc. No issues on reliability. IMHO, if I were to purchase a new one, I'd go - as others have suggested - with something like a CK arms, or a Dawson or Brazos-tuned gun. Little bit more coin, for what appears to be a much higher reliability out of the box you receive it in. 
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Posted: 10/20/2016 6:50:59 PM EDT
[#16]
Litmus test Saturday. Running in a 10k Biathalon (2 gun competition). Kinda like a spartan race / tough mudder but with guns.
The finish is going to take a beating lol. |
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Posted: 10/20/2016 7:48:27 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Bit of a story. My current gun was my dad's gun. I had a short dust cover, bushing barrel limited gun. It was built by someone else, and I was at least the third owner. It ran fine from the start. When I got back from overseas, I took my dad's factory STI Edge. He said he couldn't get it to run reliably. Had tried factory, and reman ammo. He had the gun sent back to STI. They replaced the barrel. It was improved, but still not reliable. My dad then had a local smith ream the chamber to exact SAAMI spec. Still not totally reliable. That is the point when I swapped guns with my dad (since I shoot way more, and compete regularly, we figured I had the time and energy to get it going). When I got it from him, the extractor had virtually no tension. Tensioned it, and had a friend polish it up. I did that, and switched to a U-die. At the same time, I also started case-gauging my match ammo. It's ran flawless every since. I haven't switched back to a full-size die to test with that. But since I made all those changes, it's ran damn near flawless. I've had three failures to fully feed in the last 10k-ish rounds. None of those occurred with ammo that had been case-gauged. I've had the slide lightened, trigger work done etc. No issues on reliability. IMHO, if I were to purchase a new one, I'd go - as others have suggested - with something like a CK arms, or a Dawson or Brazos-tuned gun. Little bit more coin, for what appears to be a much higher reliability out of the box you receive it in. http://i581.photobucket.com/albums/ss251/ArmyAdub/Edge%20left%20side.jpg Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
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I've had two now, and once they ran, they ran like raped-apes for quite some time. My current limited gun took a bit to get going. Now that it has, it's at 15k+ rounds and shows no-signs of stopping. What kind of tuning was required to get your particular guns running? I don't want to buy a complete gun and have to replace a bunch of internals when I can just have one built with good guts to start. I am still on the fence with a factory gun vs buying a frame kit/components and having a smith fit everything together. Bit of a story. My current gun was my dad's gun. I had a short dust cover, bushing barrel limited gun. It was built by someone else, and I was at least the third owner. It ran fine from the start. When I got back from overseas, I took my dad's factory STI Edge. He said he couldn't get it to run reliably. Had tried factory, and reman ammo. He had the gun sent back to STI. They replaced the barrel. It was improved, but still not reliable. My dad then had a local smith ream the chamber to exact SAAMI spec. Still not totally reliable. That is the point when I swapped guns with my dad (since I shoot way more, and compete regularly, we figured I had the time and energy to get it going). When I got it from him, the extractor had virtually no tension. Tensioned it, and had a friend polish it up. I did that, and switched to a U-die. At the same time, I also started case-gauging my match ammo. It's ran flawless every since. I haven't switched back to a full-size die to test with that. But since I made all those changes, it's ran damn near flawless. I've had three failures to fully feed in the last 10k-ish rounds. None of those occurred with ammo that had been case-gauged. I've had the slide lightened, trigger work done etc. No issues on reliability. IMHO, if I were to purchase a new one, I'd go - as others have suggested - with something like a CK arms, or a Dawson or Brazos-tuned gun. Little bit more coin, for what appears to be a much higher reliability out of the box you receive it in. http://i581.photobucket.com/albums/ss251/ArmyAdub/Edge%20left%20side.jpg Thanks for the story and input. It seems I may be better served with a built gun that has been tuned by a gunsmith. From the sounds of it, the primary issue could have been a weak extractor? If that is the case, I wouldn't mind picking up a 2011 Tac and then just replacing a few key components. |
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Posted: 10/20/2016 8:33:59 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Thanks for the story and input. It seems I may be better served with a built gun that has been tuned by a gunsmith. From the sounds of it, the primary issue could have been a weak extractor? If that is the case, I wouldn't mind picking up a 2011 Tac and then just replacing a few key components. Allow me to opine that 99% of the time there should be no need to replace anything on a NIB STI-built gun, IMO. I note that "need" is different from "want"...............
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Posted: 10/22/2016 10:29:19 PM EDT
[#19]
I've only got one, Tac 5.0 in 9mm, that I bought in 14 and it's been reliable out of the box. No tweaking mags required, no extractor adjustments, nada. It just runs. It currently has 14429 through it with only recoil and firing pin spring changes. Mags get springs changed when they lose the ability to lock the slide open last round.
It's a good gun, my favorite and current duty piece and I'd buy another stock STI in a heart beat. |
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Posted: 10/23/2016 12:22:55 AM EDT
[#20]
DS Hex Tac ran like a champ today. Not a single hiccup. 80 rounds all through STI mags.
Ran it with a loaded chamber, hammer down traversing the 10k between stages. Couple of creek crossings, lots of dirt, rock and weeds. |
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Posted: 10/23/2016 3:34:55 AM EDT
[#21]
So you carried it with the hammer down? Doesn't that pretty much defeat all the safeties built into the gun???
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Posted: 10/23/2016 8:26:14 AM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So you carried it with the hammer down? Doesn't that pretty much defeat all the safeties built into the gun??? Trigger block safety. |
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Posted: 10/23/2016 9:04:34 AM EDT
[#23]
I handled several 2011's before I took the plunge. STI makes great guns but they don't meet the craftsmanship and fit that the custom builders provide. I started out with a 2011 Dawson Precision Practical Advantage. This was a gun build by Dave on an STI slide and frame. Shot it for a few years until I tried out a buddy's SVI. Just picked up my 2nd and couldn't be happier.
The top is the 40 - still breaking it in. Less than 600 round through it. The bottom is in 9. It has just under 10K on it. Had a few feeding issues in the first 50 rounds during break in but that was mostly figuring out what length ammo it liked. After that I have had 2 and both were ammo related. 
Both of these are competition only guns. Only maintainence I have done is routine cleaning of the gun/mags and changing out mag springs and recoil spring. |
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Posted: 10/23/2016 11:08:55 AM EDT
[#24]
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Trigger block safety. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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So you carried it with the hammer down? Doesn't that pretty much defeat all the safeties built into the gun??? Trigger block safety. Guess I'm not familiar with that. I was under the impression that when you lowered the hammer it rested directly on the firing pin. |
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Posted: 10/23/2016 11:57:37 AM EDT
[#25]
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Guess I'm not familiar with that. I was under the impression that when you lowered the hammer it rested directly on the firing pin. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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So you carried it with the hammer down? Doesn't that pretty much defeat all the safeties built into the gun??? Trigger block safety. Guess I'm not familiar with that. I was under the impression that when you lowered the hammer it rested directly on the firing pin. It does. |
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Posted: 10/23/2016 4:36:44 PM EDT
[#26]
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It does. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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So you carried it with the hammer down? Doesn't that pretty much defeat all the safeties built into the gun??? Trigger block safety. Guess I'm not familiar with that. I was under the impression that when you lowered the hammer it rested directly on the firing pin. It does. So that means it could go off if dropped right? |
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Posted: 10/23/2016 5:26:18 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So that means it could go off if dropped right? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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So you carried it with the hammer down? Doesn't that pretty much defeat all the safeties built into the gun??? Trigger block safety. Guess I'm not familiar with that. I was under the impression that when you lowered the hammer it rested directly on the firing pin. It does. So that means it could go off if dropped right? The trigger and grip needs to be depressed in order to release the firing pin safety. It has to be a positive release to protect if an accidental sear disengagement happens. At least that's my understanding. |
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Posted: 10/23/2016 6:20:24 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So that means it could go off if dropped right? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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So you carried it with the hammer down? Doesn't that pretty much defeat all the safeties built into the gun??? Trigger block safety. Guess I'm not familiar with that. I was under the impression that when you lowered the hammer it rested directly on the firing pin. It does. So that means it could go off if dropped right? Maybe if you dropped a pre series 80 off a third floor balcony and it landed perpendicular muzzle first then it could be possible, in theory. The firing pin is a rebounding firing pin design. Meaning it is shorter in length that the hole it rides in and it has to overcome rearward spring pressure to momentarily poke out the front to contact the primer and then it springs back. For a visual of this first empty and clear a 1911and lock the slide back. Use a tool a car key or whatevers handy to press the firing pin forward and hold it flush to the firing pin stop and observe the firing pin hole in the breech face. Notice how the firing pin tip is still recessed behind the beech face. IMHO the risk of AD in carrying a standard M1911A1 in condition two, hammer down on a chambered round, is not so much a muzzle first drop onto a hard surface but a thumb slip while de cocking the hammer+depressing the grip safety+holding the trigger back. |
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Posted: 10/23/2016 6:32:30 PM EDT
[#29]
I have had a Tactical DS 5.0 9mm for a couple of months now. I bought it mainly for 3-gun, but I haven't put a ton of rounds through it yet. Here are my observations. First, I went with the Tactical because I liked the rail, the fixed Heinie sights, and the smaller mag well. I still really like the mag well vs. the larger one that is on guns like the Edge. I have changed out the sights to a Dawson fiber front and a Novak adjustable rear. In retrospect, I wish I had a Bomar rear (like that comes on the Edge). The trigger is also heavier on the Tactical than on the Edge. My trigger is a tad less than 4.5 pounds, so an EGW kit will probably be in order..
I shoot 147gr Blue Bullets out of it, and they are pretty accurate. The chamber on my gun is very tight, so I have to chamber check every round before it get boxed up. Rounds that chamber no problem in HK's, Glocks, Beretta's, etc will not chamber in this gun. A Lee FCD has helped quite a bit. |
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Posted: 10/23/2016 8:55:57 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The trigger and grip needs to be depressed in order to release the firing pin safety. It has to be a positive release to protect if an accidental sear disengagement happens. At least that's my understanding. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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So that means it could go off if dropped right? The trigger and grip needs to be depressed in order to release the firing pin safety. It has to be a positive release to protect if an accidental sear disengagement happens. At least that's my understanding. What firing pin safety? STI doesn't use 'em. |
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Posted: 10/23/2016 10:24:54 PM EDT
[#31]
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What firing pin safety? STI doesn't use 'em. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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So that means it could go off if dropped right? The trigger and grip needs to be depressed in order to release the firing pin safety. It has to be a positive release to protect if an accidental sear disengagement happens. At least that's my understanding. What firing pin safety? STI doesn't use 'em. I was thinking that STI only produced 70 series 1911/2011s. I do not recall seeing parts for the firing pin safety when pricing out parts. |
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Posted: 10/23/2016 11:23:49 PM EDT
[#32]
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What firing pin safety? STI doesn't use 'em. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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So that means it could go off if dropped right? The trigger and grip needs to be depressed in order to release the firing pin safety. It has to be a positive release to protect if an accidental sear disengagement happens. At least that's my understanding. What firing pin safety? STI doesn't use 'em. You're right. Thanks for the correction. I had to go pull mine apart just to check. Just spring resistance keeping the pin off the primer when the hammer is down. It takes a really good whack to see the pin pop out. I pulled the barrel and recoil rod and put the slide back on. Tried to push the pin past flush and no protrusion. Only the inertia produced from the hammer hitting did I see the firing pin pop out. Learned something new about my 2011 today! 
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Posted: 10/23/2016 11:32:44 PM EDT
[#33]
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You're right. Thanks for the correction. I had to go pull mine apart just to check. Just spring resistance keeping the pin off the primer when the hammer is down. It takes a really good whack to see the pin pop out. I pulled the barrel and recoil rod and put the slide back on. Tried to push the pin past flush and no protrusion. Only the inertia produced from the hammer hitting did I see the firing pin pop out. Learned something new about my 2011 today! Quote HistoryQuoted:
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So that means it could go off if dropped right? The trigger and grip needs to be depressed in order to release the firing pin safety. It has to be a positive release to protect if an accidental sear disengagement happens. At least that's my understanding. What firing pin safety? STI doesn't use 'em. You're right. Thanks for the correction. I had to go pull mine apart just to check. Just spring resistance keeping the pin off the primer when the hammer is down. It takes a really good whack to see the pin pop out. I pulled the barrel and recoil rod and put the slide back on. Tried to push the pin past flush and no protrusion. Only the inertia produced from the hammer hitting did I see the firing pin pop out. Learned something new about my 2011 today! I asked over in the USPSA forum to make sure but it is not allowable and will earn you a DQ to do that in USPSA. |
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Posted: 10/24/2016 9:40:11 AM EDT
[#34]
sti edge, 40 only issue was gun needed an aftec extractor to run my reloads, but ran 7,000+ of fed 180 fmj factory ammo just fine. Mag bodies not tuned but different guts and base pads to get 19+ reloadable
custom open 9mm major, only issue after 700 rounds gun needs to be cleaned or it will ftf, but it only has about 2,000 rounds on it. |
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Posted: 10/25/2016 3:42:32 PM EDT
[#35]
I have 3 and have had good success with all of them.
1. Stock 9mm Edge which has been 100% solid even using factory ammo. Running STI mags with Grams springs/followers and a mix of basepads (TTI, Dawson SNL). This will become my 3-gun pistol. 2. Brazos Custom .40 - (granted this is a hand built custom 2011 on an STI frame). It functions reliably with long-loaded ammo. Factory .40 is sometimes a bit short and it won't feed smoothly. Mag feedlips also have to be tuned or it won't feed properly either. Going to use it for USPSA Limited. 3. STI Matchmaster Open gun in 9mm major. Must use custom/handloads. Facoty ammo is not strong enough to cycle the slide and work the comp reliably. I'm pushing 1350+fps in a 125gr JHP to make major power factor. 100% reliable with my reloads. Depending on what STI you get and for what purpose, they are great. If you are going with a competition pistol, they are like Ferrari's. They'll race great, but you can't feed them regular unleaded gasoline and they need to be well maintained if you want them to run 100% |
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Posted: 10/25/2016 8:07:12 PM EDT
[#36]
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Depending on what STI you get and for what purpose, they are great. If you are going with a competition pistol, they are like Ferrari's. They'll race great, but you can't feed them regular unleaded gasoline and they need to be well maintained if you want them to run 100% That is why I was looking at the 2011 Tactical DS, thinking that it is more "duty" grade. I am not looking for a dedicated competition gun. I have no issues maintaining a firearm, but I want a gun that will eat anything I put through it, whether its factory range ammo, factory SD ammo, or reloads. |
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Posted: 10/25/2016 8:15:36 PM EDT
[#37]
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That is why I was looking at the 2011 Tactical DS, thinking that it is more "duty" grade. I am not looking for a dedicated competition gun. I have no issues maintaining a firearm, but I want a gun that will eat anything I put through it, whether its factory range ammo, factory SD ammo, or reloads. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Depending on what STI you get and for what purpose, they are great. If you are going with a competition pistol, they are like Ferrari's. They'll race great, but you can't feed them regular unleaded gasoline and they need to be well maintained if you want them to run 100% That is why I was looking at the 2011 Tactical DS, thinking that it is more "duty" grade. I am not looking for a dedicated competition gun. I have no issues maintaining a firearm, but I want a gun that will eat anything I put through it, whether its factory range ammo, factory SD ammo, or reloads. Their guns are all built to the same spec as far as I know so the tactical will not be more reliable than a competition variant. It is strictly options and appearance. My edge eats anything but it has had some work done prior to me owning it so I don't know if it has been tuned. I put a aftec in and haven't had a issue. I keep it lubed and it keeps running. |
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