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Posted: 5/10/2015 3:03:41 PM EDT
[#1]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If it is a true to spec frame, then no. It will not allow enough slide travel as the slide will hit the recoil shoulder prematurely. Without modification it would most likely not work. Eta: I have found some examples online where people just slapped a commander slide on to a gov frame and it worked, but it is still not correct. It is more than likely directing recoil energy in places they should not be, plus it will not be as reliable for ejection.. Plus it will probably look funny lol. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Question: will thsee psa frames accept a commander length slide and barrel, specifically a bull barrel? Thanks. You cannot put a shorter length slide on to a full size frame. You would need a commander frame or officer frame. Bull barrel would depend on the slide. Slide would need cut for a reverse collar spring plug since you could not use a barrel bushing to hold the spring plug. So this specific PSA 5" frame will not accept a commander slide? (I have very little experience with 1911's other than chootin 'em) Thanks. If it is a true to spec frame, then no. It will not allow enough slide travel as the slide will hit the recoil shoulder prematurely. Without modification it would most likely not work. Eta: I have found some examples online where people just slapped a commander slide on to a gov frame and it worked, but it is still not correct. It is more than likely directing recoil energy in places they should not be, plus it will not be as reliable for ejection.. Plus it will probably look funny lol. Damn, I saw the same things you did online about it being doable. It sounded to good to be true.. Thanks. |
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Posted: 5/10/2015 7:07:41 PM EDT
[#2]
Question #2:
Can these frames be used to build a 9mm style 1911? Would I need a different extractor or a ramped barrel? Thanks! Eta: or, could I just purchase a 9mm slide, Barrel etc and fit it to the frame? |
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Posted: 5/10/2015 10:54:33 PM EDT
[#3]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Question #2: Can these frames be used to build a 9mm style 1911? Would I need a different extractor or a ramped barrel? Thanks! Eta: or, could I just purchase a 9mm slide, Barrel etc and fit it to the frame? feed ramp and breech face will be wrong....so no. now if you want to buy the frame and have it machined for a ramped barrel by all means go ahead and it'll work....but you'd be better off buying a .38/9mm frame from the get go. |
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Posted: 5/11/2015 9:52:38 PM EDT
[#4]
I ordered one of these a couple days ago, I missed the slides and now see them out of stock.
Hopefully they don't take too much smithing to get them to work. Looking forward to building my 1st 1911. |
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Posted: 5/13/2015 9:39:21 PM EDT
[#5]
Slide in today.
Going to call the FFL tomorrow and see if the frame made it. Anyone else? |
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Posted: 5/13/2015 10:16:23 PM EDT
[#6]
Both my frames came in today. I bought them Saturday. That is some fast shipping.
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Posted: 5/13/2015 10:34:48 PM EDT
[#7]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Both my frames came in today. I bought them Saturday. That is some fast shipping. Need some pics. |
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Posted: 5/13/2015 10:53:56 PM EDT
[#8]
Slides are back in stock! But if I had to guess, not for long at that price.
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Posted: 5/14/2015 10:42:23 AM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Both my frames came in today. I bought them Saturday. That is some fast shipping. Slick front strap on both? |
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Posted: 5/14/2015 10:48:16 AM EDT
[#10]
I got a carbon, slick front strap. I have only seen one that was checkered, looks to be machine checkered. FWIW, PSA had contracted with Taurus to build 1911 frames, but when they all came in not to spec, they were destroyed. PSA is being very tightlipped about who made these. I ran some tolerance checks on mine, the differences are less than .002 in some places, as high as .117 in others. Other than lapping it with some 800grit, I doubt I will do much more fitting. The slides are very slick with the frames for those that I have seen. The 30 that were actually made for PSA when they released them at the SHOT SHOW 2 years ago had very little hand fitting that needed to be done between slide and frame from what I have been told.
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Posted: 5/14/2015 12:32:37 PM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I got a carbon, slick front strap. I have only seen one that was checkered, looks to be machine checkered. FWIW, PSA had contracted with Taurus to build 1911 frames, but when they all came in not to spec, they were destroyed. PSA is being very tightlipped about who made these. I ran some tolerance checks on mine, the differences are less than .002 in some places, as high as .117 in others. Other than lapping it with some 800grit, I doubt I will do much more fitting. The slides are very slick with the frames for those that I have seen. The 30 that were actually made for PSA when they released them at the SHOT SHOW 2 years ago had very little hand fitting that needed to be done between slide and frame from what I have been told. https://scontent-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/11008554_10101937346040167_7385097611352242588_n.jpg?oh=944f8df5ceb0ac2e38fccf20b3f8a726&oe=55D0DDC8 https://scontent-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/r270/s720x720/11229384_10101937346070107_592704978622283937_n.jpg?oh=bf0f8562c6e13300ac9acf09dfe0cc6f&oe=55C20D86 https://scontent-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/r270/10376922_10101937346095057_1145793028087892099_n.jpg?oh=450f83c01fd91550bd6a8b902d04c5b7&oe=55C3CB91 cool, thanks. I ordered that same setup. |
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Posted: 5/14/2015 12:55:58 PM EDT
[#12]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
cool, thanks. I ordered that same setup. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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I got a carbon, slick front strap. I have only seen one that was checkered, looks to be machine checkered. FWIW, PSA had contracted with Taurus to build 1911 frames, but when they all came in not to spec, they were destroyed. PSA is being very tightlipped about who made these. I ran some tolerance checks on mine, the differences are less than .002 in some places, as high as .117 in others. Other than lapping it with some 800grit, I doubt I will do much more fitting. The slides are very slick with the frames for those that I have seen. The 30 that were actually made for PSA when they released them at the SHOT SHOW 2 years ago had very little hand fitting that needed to be done between slide and frame from what I have been told. https://scontent-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xpf1/v/t1.0-9/11008554_10101937346040167_7385097611352242588_n.jpg?oh=944f8df5ceb0ac2e38fccf20b3f8a726&oe=55D0DDC8 https://scontent-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xap1/v/t1.0-9/r270/s720x720/11229384_10101937346070107_592704978622283937_n.jpg?oh=bf0f8562c6e13300ac9acf09dfe0cc6f&oe=55C20D86 https://scontent-atl.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-xfa1/v/t1.0-9/r270/10376922_10101937346095057_1145793028087892099_n.jpg?oh=450f83c01fd91550bd6a8b902d04c5b7&oe=55C3CB91 cool, thanks. I ordered that same setup. yep. some tolerance checks: Height measurments: Slide rails: .115" Frame rail grooves: .117" Slide rail grooves: .103" Frame rails: .097" Width: frame rail width (left to right): .748" Slide inside rail groove to inside rail groove: .750" Those are all way small in terms of tolerance, I could probably tighten them up by peening the frame rails. The width is perfect, no need to really change that. As they are, they have a slight vertical wobble, but it is less than other 1911s that I have seen. I need to clean all the grease off and try it with some oil. They might be slick enough that I don't mess with them. |
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Posted: 5/14/2015 4:33:54 PM EDT
[#13]
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Need some pics. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Both my frames came in today. I bought them Saturday. That is some fast shipping. Need some pics. Sorry, I an too dumb to post from my IPAD. |
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Posted: 5/14/2015 4:34:48 PM EDT
[#14]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Slick front strap on both? Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Both my frames came in today. I bought them Saturday. That is some fast shipping. Slick front strap on both? Yes, I normally use the Hogue wrap around grips on my 1911s. Also consecutive serial numbers. |
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Posted: 5/14/2015 10:55:35 PM EDT
[#15]
Just slapping them together, the fit is very good. I will also try to get some caliper measurements up in the next few days.
So far, I am very pleased with the look. I went with stainless and ended up with a serial number less than 200 and very nice-looking checkering. Here are some pictures: 
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Posted: 5/15/2015 9:04:14 PM EDT
[#16]
Picked up my stainless frame today, lucked out and got a serial# also under 200 and with a checkered front strap. Mine has a little bit of packing grease on the inside and in the checkering.
I really like it. I do see a couple tooling marks in the frame, I assume they will wet sand out, although I'm hesitant to mess with it since I've never built one and don't want to screw it up. Can't wait for the slide to arrive. For those that have both, have you had to do any lapping to get them to fit? |
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Posted: 5/15/2015 9:43:03 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Picked up my stainless frame today, lucked out and got a serial# also under 200 and with a checkered front strap. Mine has a little bit of packing grease on the inside and in the checkering. I really like it. I do see a couple tooling marks in the frame, I assume they will wet sand out, although I'm hesitant to mess with it since I've never built one and don't want to screw it up. Can't wait for the slide to arrive. For those that have both, have you had to do any lapping to get them to fit? No, mine fit well with the slightest lateral slack that might even tighten up with parts(?). Even if not I would consider it normal/expected. Basically no vertical wobble. |
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Posted: 5/15/2015 9:51:04 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
No, mine fit well with the slightest lateral slack that might even tighten up with parts(?). Even if not I would consider it normal/expected. Basically no vertical wobble. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Picked up my stainless frame today, lucked out and got a serial# also under 200 and with a checkered front strap. Mine has a little bit of packing grease on the inside and in the checkering. I really like it. I do see a couple tooling marks in the frame, I assume they will wet sand out, although I'm hesitant to mess with it since I've never built one and don't want to screw it up. Can't wait for the slide to arrive. For those that have both, have you had to do any lapping to get them to fit? No, mine fit well with the slightest lateral slack that might even tighten up with parts(?). Even if not I would consider it normal/expected. Basically no vertical wobble. Cerekote will tighten it up, you can do clear if you don't want a color. |
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Posted: 5/16/2015 9:59:02 AM EDT
[#19]
Interesting. I don't own any guns that have been cerakoted, does the coating wear off over time on parts of the slide/frame that make contact?
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Posted: 5/16/2015 11:12:28 AM EDT
[#20]
It will, but there is a thread in the archives about it. Basically, you can use it to tighten things up and then lap the slide and frame together for a smooth fit. Duracoat will wear quicker since it is not baked on.
And with clear, you won't notice a visible difference. 
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Posted: 5/16/2015 12:56:08 PM EDT
[#21]
I own a couple of 1911's, but I've never built one.
What would be the next step after buying a slide and frame? Is there a kit to build an entire pistol? Or do you need to buy each pin, spring and screw separately? |
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Posted: 5/16/2015 1:03:24 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I own a couple of 1911's, but I've never built one. What would be the next step after buying a slide and frame? Is there a kit to build an entire pistol? Or do you need to buy each pin, spring and screw separately? Brownells sells all the parts you need: pin and spring sets, a drop in barrel kit, MSH, grip safety (and I highly recommend you buy a fitting jig), firing pin (for whatever your slide is drilled for .38 or .45, caspians are all drilled for a .38 regardless of caliber), firing pin stop, extractor, ejector, Novak site set, plunger tube, trigger, hammer, sear, grip screws and bushing set, and a recoil guide rod and plug. You will want to buy or make a staking tool for the plunger tube, you could loctite it but that's ghetto as fuck, and you will need a brass,preferably derlin punch, to set/drift the sites unless you have a site pusher. Various grades of sand paper (will likely need to order this as you will want very. Fine grades not usually available at local stores) and some files to fit the parts. There are a lot more things that will make your life a hell of a lot easier but this is the bare minimum you will need assuming you don't need to re-tap the grip busing threads, ream out any holes, cut the lower lugs, or care about your sear/hammer engagement being perfect. |
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Posted: 5/16/2015 1:15:59 PM EDT
[#23]
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Sarco sells kits, but frankly you would be better served by buying take offs from a factory 1911. If you just want to see if you can build a 1911 and your only expectation is that it will shoot, trigger feel and weight doesn't matter, nor does accuracy then they are just the thing for you. If you have any expectation of a reliable accurate pistol I would use that money towards buying nicer parts rather than effectively throw money in the trash when you eventually end up replacing pretty much every part. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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I own a couple of 1911's, but I've never built one. What would be the next step after buying a slide and frame? Is there a kit to build an entire pistol? Or do you need to buy each pin, spring and screw separately? I'm hoping to put high quality parts in mine. PSA seems to intend to stock Wilson combat /Ed brown parts and I think those should both fall into that category. I haven't started purchasing the individual parts but if I can stick with thee part I am anticipating only having to replace because of my ineptitude and not poor quality. I've been reading and watching to try to minimize that too. |
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Posted: 5/16/2015 4:35:24 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm hoping to put high quality parts in mine. PSA seems to intend to stock Wilson combat /Ed brown parts and I think those should both fall into that category. I haven't started purchasing the individual parts but if I can stick with thee part I am anticipating only having to replace because of my ineptitude and not poor quality. I've been reading and watching to try to minimize that too. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: I own a couple of 1911's, but I've never built one. What would be the next step after buying a slide and frame? Is there a kit to build an entire pistol? Or do you need to buy each pin, spring and screw separately? I'm hoping to put high quality parts in mine. PSA seems to intend to stock Wilson combat /Ed brown parts and I think those should both fall into that category. I haven't started purchasing the individual parts but if I can stick with thee part I am anticipating only having to replace because of my ineptitude and not poor quality. I've been reading and watching to try to minimize that too. Don't get impatient when fitting and you will be fine. Check fit/alignment, take a few strokes with a file, test fit again, and repeat till done. Most people who mess up fitting don't do this |
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Posted: 5/16/2015 7:00:19 PM EDT
[#25]
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Don't get impatient when fitting and you will be fine. Check fit/alignment, take a few strokes with a file, test fit again, and repeat till done. Most people who mess up fitting don't do this Are the relatively cheap files on Amazon ok for this? I'm seeing sets of 6-8 files for less than $15. |
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Posted: 5/16/2015 7:37:20 PM EDT
[#26]
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Are the relatively cheap files on Amazon ok for this? I'm seeing sets of 6-8 files for less than $15. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Don't get impatient when fitting and you will be fine. Check fit/alignment, take a few strokes with a file, test fit again, and repeat till done. Most people who mess up fitting don't do this Are the relatively cheap files on Amazon ok for this? I'm seeing sets of 6-8 files for less than $15. just hit up harbor freight....any metal you take off (such as in the barrel fitting) will be minimal. It will just be going slow. File, check, file, check, file, check..... |
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Posted: 5/16/2015 8:38:12 PM EDT
[#27]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Are the relatively cheap files on Amazon ok for this? I'm seeing sets of 6-8 files for less than $15. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Don't get impatient when fitting and you will be fine. Check fit/alignment, take a few strokes with a file, test fit again, and repeat till done. Most people who mess up fitting don't do this Are the relatively cheap files on Amazon ok for this? I'm seeing sets of 6-8 files for less than $15. |
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Posted: 5/16/2015 8:41:52 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted: just hit up harbor freight....any metal you take off (such as in the barrel fitting) will be minimal. It will just be going slow. File, check, file, check, file, check..... Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: Quoted: Don't get impatient when fitting and you will be fine. Check fit/alignment, take a few strokes with a file, test fit again, and repeat till done. Most people who mess up fitting don't do this Are the relatively cheap files on Amazon ok for this? I'm seeing sets of 6-8 files for less than $15. just hit up harbor freight....any metal you take off (such as in the barrel fitting) will be minimal. It will just be going slow. File, check, file, check, file, check..... |
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Posted: 5/17/2015 8:34:49 PM EDT
[#29]
I'm really looking forward to seeing some of these completed - seems like it'd be tough to go wrong for the price.
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Posted: 5/18/2015 1:24:56 AM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: I'm really looking forward to seeing some of these completed - seems like it'd be tough to go wrong for the price. Yeah, I'm looking forward to seeing this morph into a build thread where everyone posts their creations and experiences building these. |
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Posted: 5/20/2015 7:07:58 PM EDT
[#31]
I got my PSA slide today and it fits great on the frame.
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Posted: 5/20/2015 7:13:44 PM EDT
[#32]
Just picked up my S/S frame, it did have the checkered front.... Nice fit with my slide. Will probably order some more for "projects"
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Posted: 5/21/2015 12:58:53 AM EDT
[#33]
Guys I know very little about 1911s other than shooting a couple different models, but im looking to buy/build my first one. I like PSA as they are about an hour drive from me, and have bought a bunch of stuff from them in the past. If I was to pick up their slide and frame, could I just order the parts kits from Wilson Combat and put everything together? Definitely not me, but someone qualified for sure.
Looks like the parts kits from WC would run a little over 600 bucks, plus the cost of the frame and slide from Palmetto. |
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Posted: 5/21/2015 8:06:49 AM EDT
[#34]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Guys I know very little about 1911s other than shooting a couple different models, but im looking to buy/build my first one. I like PSA as they are about an hour drive from me, and have bought a bunch of stuff from them in the past. If I was to pick up their slide and frame, could I just order the parts kits from Wilson Combat and put everything together? Definitely not me, but someone qualified for sure. Looks like the parts kits from WC would run a little over 600 bucks, plus the cost of the frame and slide from Palmetto. |
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Posted: 5/22/2015 12:24:35 PM EDT
[#35]
These remind me of a time I thought having an AMD-65 kit built into a rifle would be a killer deal - paid almost nothing for the kit and figured sub-$600 total for an original barreled build. Heh, wrong!
It's a good deal for those folks with skillz already set up to build but it's not slapping an AR together. My great deal turned into a $900 build project with no finish so I pulled the ripcord on that great idea. God Bless those who can do it though - I'll certainly look at the purty pictures. |
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Posted: 5/22/2015 10:15:10 PM EDT
[#36]
Finally picked up my frame today after an issue with one FFL, they weren't there, called PSA and had then ship it to another FFL.
From what I can tell, the frame looks really nice. It has a nice coating on it, I got carbon. But I don't really see why they coated it since Its going to be stripped anyways. Serial number is in the 500s and I wasn't lucky enough to get the checkered front strap. Oh well. |
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Posted: 5/23/2015 4:08:49 PM EDT
[#37]
Same here.
received a carbon frame slick front strap. serial under 900 |
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Posted: 5/23/2015 4:46:40 PM EDT
[#38]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Same here. received a carbon frame slick front strap. serial under 900 I haven't heard of a carbon frame with checkering or a SS without. It's a very small sample so far though. |
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Posted: 5/23/2015 5:00:04 PM EDT
[#39]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I haven't heard of a carbon frame with checkering or a SS without. It's a very small sample so far though. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Same here. received a carbon frame slick front strap. serial under 900 I haven't heard of a carbon frame with checkering or a SS without. It's a very small sample so far though. One of the PSA stores had 15 ss frames, only one was checkered. I have not seen a checkered carbon frame, but they do exist. |
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Posted: 5/23/2015 7:48:12 PM EDT
[#40]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Generally speaking cheap files aren't worth their cost....that said if you have little to no use for said files after this project it hardly makes sense for you to buy nice ones. I usually go with Nicholson files, they're pretty good. They last just as long as my Swiss ones did, but we're half the cost, or less, and 80% as nice. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Don't get impatient when fitting and you will be fine. Check fit/alignment, take a few strokes with a file, test fit again, and repeat till done. Most people who mess up fitting don't do this Are the relatively cheap files on Amazon ok for this? I'm seeing sets of 6-8 files for less than $15. Unfortunately some Nicholson files (the needle files in particular) are now China made. Those used to be Swiss. Just get a few Grobet or other Swiss make and you should be good. I use the round, triangular, square, and half-round most often. They will last forever. |
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Posted: 5/23/2015 9:22:53 PM EDT
[#41]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Unfortunately some Nicholson files (the needle files in particular) are now China made. Those used to be Swiss. Just get a few Grobet or other Swiss make and you should be good. I use the round, triangular, square, and half-round most often. They will last forever. That's depressing that they are starting to go to China. If they were shifting to Taiwan I could still swallow that, lots of Taiwanese tools are still really good, but mainland China stuff can be pretty craptastic. I'm sure the overarching owner, apex tool group, are the ones dictating that change. |
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Posted: 6/5/2015 8:47:09 PM EDT
[#42]
These frames say model 70 in the description.
Does that mean you will not need the series 80 parts or shims for this frame? Thank you. |
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Posted: 6/5/2015 8:51:05 PM EDT
[#43]
Series 70 parts will work. Series 80 parts have a firing pin plunger that blocks the firing pin during the instance of dropping the firearm.
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Posted: 6/5/2015 9:09:52 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Series 70 parts will work. Series 80 parts have a firing pin plunger that blocks the firing pin during the instance of dropping the firearm. So, this frame says model 70.. does that mean one would not need the "shim" to omit the series 80 firing pin saftey pieces? Thanks. |
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Posted: 6/5/2015 11:30:48 PM EDT
[#45]
About 3/4th way done with my sub 250 serial frame, just waiting on a beavertail safety and a plunger tube tool and I will have it done, will start on the slide next week. I have had to do a pretty good amount of fitting on everything but its coming together very nice. The slide to frame fit isn't as good as I was hoping, but its still tighter and smoother than either of my springfields.
Now to decide how I want to finish it..... Cerakote is at the top of my list if everything turns out and its a good shooter. So many color choices 
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Posted: 6/7/2015 6:32:57 AM EDT
[#46]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So, this frame says model 70.. does that mean one would not need the "shim" to omit the series 80 firing pin saftey pieces? Thanks. No shim is needed |
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Posted: 6/7/2015 8:39:50 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
About 3/4th way done with my sub 250 serial frame, just waiting on a beavertail safety and a plunger tube tool and I will have it done, will start on the slide next week. I have had to do a pretty good amount of fitting on everything but its coming together very nice. The slide to frame fit isn't as good as I was hoping, but its still tighter and smoother than either of my springfields. Now to decide how I want to finish it..... Cerakote is at the top of my list if everything turns out and its a good shooter. So many color choices Make sure you get a beavertail grip safety that is a commander. The rear tang of the PSA frame is cut for that. A GI style beavertail will leave about an 1/8" gap. |
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Posted: 6/7/2015 9:46:57 AM EDT
[#48]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
So, this frame says model 70.. does that mean one would not need the "shim" to omit the series 80 firing pin saftey pieces? Thanks. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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Series 70 parts will work. Series 80 parts have a firing pin plunger that blocks the firing pin during the instance of dropping the firearm. So, this frame says model 70.. does that mean one would not need the "shim" to omit the series 80 firing pin saftey pieces? Thanks. If the frame is a "70 series" you will need a "70 series" slide or if you use "80 series" slide on a "70 series" frame you will need to remove the firing pin safety plunger and plunger spring etc. on your "80 series" slide...Of course if you have a "80 series" frame on a "70 series" slide you would then need to to remove the safety mechanism and replace them with the various filler shims that usually come as a kit... Good luck. |
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Posted: 6/7/2015 10:01:41 AM EDT
[#49]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Make sure you get a beavertail grip safety that is a commander. The rear tang of the PSA frame is cut for that. A GI style beavertail will leave about an 1/8" gap. Quote HistoryQuoted:
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About 3/4th way done with my sub 250 serial frame, just waiting on a beavertail safety and a plunger tube tool and I will have it done, will start on the slide next week. I have had to do a pretty good amount of fitting on everything but its coming together very nice. The slide to frame fit isn't as good as I was hoping, but its still tighter and smoother than either of my springfields. Now to decide how I want to finish it..... Cerakote is at the top of my list if everything turns out and its a good shooter. So many color choices Make sure you get a beavertail grip safety that is a commander. The rear tang of the PSA frame is cut for that. A GI style beavertail will leave about an 1/8" gap. The rear tangs on the PSA frames are cut for a .250" radius beaver tail. That is neither government nor commander style frame tangs. Of those, the "drop-in" safeties for the commander style tangs will give you the smallest gap.. but both will give you a rather big gap. I would just buy an OEM style .250 radius beaver tail, like the Remington one that has been shown to fit fairly well on these frames. I made a crappy MS Paint image to demonstrate. 
Center is Commander pistols. Top with standard grip safety, bottom with Wilson 'Drop-in' Commander style beaver tail. Gap should be even bigger than this if you use a Commander style 'drop-in', as the .250" radius is a smaller cut. |
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Posted: 6/7/2015 1:02:53 PM EDT
[#50]
I got a Wilson "commander" beavertail from brownelles and I plan on fully blending it top and bottom. If that ends up not working I will get a oversize or remmington and mill it down where I need.
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