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Posted: 11/24/2014 8:09:41 AM EDT
I just acquired my first 1911. It's a Colt Mk IV Series 80.

I don't know much about 1911s except I've always wanted one. It's used, not sure how old. But got it for 500$. Needs a new recoil spring, i think the guy i got it from bent it trying to put it back together.

Haven't shot it yet. I want to go through it, replace the springs and what not.

What should be my first steps? What should i look out for? What are the known issues with the Mk IV?

Basically, where should a noob start? Also, how do i find out how old it is? Went to colts website for their serial lookup, but came up empty.

Thanks for any help guys.
Link Posted: 11/24/2014 9:33:02 AM EDT
[#1]
Post serial here ( with the las couple digits x'd out if you are into that sort of thing) and we can provide approximate date made. Replace recoil spring and shoot it. Resist the desire to fix what is not broke. If the gun runs as is do not mess with it. 1911's need hand fitting of just about every part for optimal function. Never consider any part except springs to be a drop in replacement. Most of it issues people have is when bubba tries to gunsmith them and messes them up
Link Posted: 11/24/2014 9:35:18 AM EDT
[#2]
I am going to give you my sugestions for a range gun , for a carry gun or one being used for home defense you might go more.

Recoil springs are what bothers me on used guns , if somebody put in a reduced power spring to shoot light reloads and you start shooting
full factory loads you cam beat things up.

Get a full power spring from one of the known sources . Wilson , Wolf or Colt .

Unless the gun appears to have a zillion rounds through it I wouldn't bother with anything else .

Mark your magazines to discover which ones (if any) give you any problems
Link Posted: 11/24/2014 11:02:20 AM EDT
[#3]
What mags came with it?  You are going to want at least 3 good functioning mags.  Some of the colt mags work great, don't be tempted by the cheap 8.00 mags.  If you run into feed issues, get some good quality mags before you start messing with the gun.
Link Posted: 11/24/2014 11:30:40 AM EDT
[#4]
My first 1911 was a Colt series 80 and I still have it. Looks like hell and is probably due for a new barrel but still shoots good, they'll outlast us all. There are some great videos on youtube for disassembly, my personal favorite is the one done by Wilson Combat. My favorite 'price is no object' mag is Wilson Combat's 47D, best 'bang for the buck' is Chip McCormick's. I also have a few Metalform mags just cause I caught them on sale and they look just like the factory mag mine came with, but they're only reliable in my Colt, they don't run well in any of my other 1911s.
Link Posted: 11/24/2014 12:34:33 PM EDT
[#5]
I wasn't about to start swapping safeties or beaver tails and what have you. Only things i want to replace right now are springs. Wolff has a service pack with a mag spring as well.

I was wanting to just change out all the springs. Maybe some plungers if they are worn out.

From what i can see, i think it's had less than 1000rds through it. I have nothing to compare it to, but I'm just guessing on how my other pistols look after years of abuse. This thing is new compared to what i have on hand.

I'm at work right now, but will post the serial and some pictures later today. I never understood why people don't post full serial numbers. Are they worried someone is going to copy their number? Maybe do bad deeds with the number, i have no clue. People are paranoid.

I've always wanted a Colt 1911, and i wanna do this one right. Naturally i want to swap parts to "make it mine", but i know that's gonna have to wait.

In the meantime, I'll swap the springs, maybe find some nice grips, and go to town on some paper.

I do know i want it to be my carry gun when i get my CHL, but gotta wait 3 more years because i was accused of DWI because i was exhausted. Even though i was found not guilty and everything dropped, just being accused in Texas for DWI means you gotta wait 5 years from offense date, or date it was dismissed, not 100% on that one.

Anyways, reliability is of utmost importance, so springs first.
Link Posted: 11/24/2014 12:35:38 PM EDT
[#6]
Just one mag came with it. Not sure on brand, Jay got it yesterday evening and paid no attention to the mag.
Link Posted: 11/25/2014 10:38:42 AM EDT
[#7]
Got pictures, but I'm an idiot and didn't realize i took them with the wife's phone.

Got some springs in route, i was wondering if it's a good idea to polish the frame and slide rails? I just wanting to clean it real good and make it look as "new" as possible.

Was going to the range tomorrow, but springs won't be in until Saturday or Monday with the holidays. So i have to wait.

In the mean time, how in depth should i get with the cleaning? Naturally with any new used gun, i like to tear them down and clean everything as much as possible.

But I've never broken down a 1911 further than a field strip. I've noticed a bit of build up in the trigger area, and firing pin area. This is just carbon and grease, nothing major i assume?

Any special tools needed? Just want to cover all the bases before i move forward. I know it's not much, but I'm really happy and proud about this pistol, and i want to do it right the first time. Not screw it up and learn from mistakes.

Thanks again for any info, and I'll have pictures and serial # today
Link Posted: 11/25/2014 10:51:18 AM EDT
[#8]
field strip.

In time you can break it down further, but if your 1,000 rounds is accurate no need to go farther unless something is broken.

I just slap a new 16 lb recoil spring in it and call it good for parts relacment.

You could do a solven dunk compressed air dry and re oil.

Keep the polish in the jars.
Link Posted: 11/25/2014 10:53:28 AM EDT
[#9]
1911s are very easy to fully disassemble, there are numerous online video and written tutorials.
Could always blast out the trigger area with Brakleen or aerosol gun cleaner and follow with spray lube or naptha for rust prevention if you don't want to tear down. Really though, no time like the present to learn a full strip. Always function check everything once you reassemble.
I wouldn't polish anything, the rails on my SA look like they were cut with on lumber mill equipment but it functions flawlessly, grease them lightly, and carry-on.
Link Posted: 11/25/2014 10:56:59 AM EDT
[#10]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
field strip.

In time you can break it down further, but if your 1,000 rounds is accurate no need to go farther unless something is broken.

I just slap a new 16 lb recoil spring in it and call it good for parts relacment.

You could do a solven dunk compressed air dry and re oil.

Keep the polish in the jars.
View Quote


New 16-pound recoil spring.

A mountain of ammunition,  shoot the snot out of it.  Change recoil springs every 1,000-odd rounds, maybe firing pin spring every 5,000.

Wash, rinse, repeat.  Customize later once you know how it works and where it shoots.
Link Posted: 11/25/2014 12:13:16 PM EDT
[#11]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:


New 16-pound recoil spring.

A mountain of ammunition,  shoot the snot out of it.  Change recoil springs every 5,000 OR WHEN SPRING IS 3/4 SHORTER THAN NEW1,000-odd rounds, maybe firing pin spring every 5,000.

Wash, rinse, repeat.  Customize later once you know how it works and where it shoots.
View Quote View All Quotes
View All Quotes
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Quoted:
field strip.

In time you can break it down further, but if your 1,000 rounds is accurate no need to go farther unless something is broken.

I just slap a new 16 lb recoil spring in it and call it good for parts relacment.

You could do a solven dunk compressed air dry and re oil.

Keep the polish in the jars.


New 16-pound recoil spring.

A mountain of ammunition,  shoot the snot out of it.  Change recoil springs every 5,000 OR WHEN SPRING IS 3/4 SHORTER THAN NEW1,000-odd rounds, maybe firing pin spring every 5,000.

Wash, rinse, repeat.  Customize later once you know how it works and where it shoots.

Link Posted: 11/25/2014 12:55:15 PM EDT
[#12]
Got it. I'll slap the new spring in Monday, save the others, and shoot it until something breaks.

I'll spray her down with some Brakleen and follow up with some CLP. what is a good grease? I usually just user non metallic wheel bearing grease, any reason to change?

Thanks again guys. Will follow up later with a range report
Link Posted: 11/25/2014 5:40:39 PM EDT
[#13]
GREASE. NGL no. 2 automotive wheel bearing grease Li based or better.
better insert your fav "wonder lube" grease here.  Mine is PL-10, tertra, mil-comm tw25b
(Li only cause thats what my Fords call for)
Link Posted: 11/25/2014 9:05:22 PM EDT
[#14]
When can we see it?
Link Posted: 11/25/2014 9:12:16 PM EDT
[#15]
DON'T POLISH ANYTHING.

The longer I live, the more I like Colt springs.  I've used Wolff, ISMI, Wilson Combat, and Sprinco.  They all have deviations from Colt's specs that get on my nerves.

I only have 4 1911s and they're all Series 80 Colts.  I have found that the springs they ship with are my favorite ones to use and I only shoot factory hardball.  I order 'em straight from Colt.

-Their 32 coil recoil springs last as long as any music wire spring and are the proper dimensions.  They fit fit the guide rod correctly, and they're not ridiculously heavy.
    -Their firing pin springs fit the firing pin correctly and you really don't want an Extra Power firing pin spring with a Series 80.
-Their sear springs are the shit.  NOBODY makes a sear spring like the new Colts.
    -Their mainsprings are about 22lbs, with closed and square-ground ends.  I haven't found any others that are made like Colt's.
Link Posted: 11/25/2014 9:21:06 PM EDT
[#16]
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Serial# FR09873

Magazine i have is unmarked. From what I've found, the grips have been changed i think. Unless there was a run of unmarked colt grips.

I won't polish anything. Just give it a good cleaning, and regrease it.
Link Posted: 11/25/2014 11:07:16 PM EDT
[#17]
Nice looking pistol.  The trigger has been changed too.  They came with crappy plastic triggers.  

I always look at Colt's site first when I need parts for a Colt.  Most of their stuff is good.  

About the only I do aftermarket are Wilson Bulletproof firing pin stops, sights, and grips.
Link Posted: 11/26/2014 4:47:05 PM EDT
[#18]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Got pictures, but I'm an idiot and didn't realize i took them with the wife's phone.

Got some springs in route, i was wondering if it's a good idea to polish the frame and slide rails? I just wanting to clean it real good and make it look as "new" as possible.

Was going to the range tomorrow, but springs won't be in until Saturday or Monday with the holidays. So i have to wait.

In the mean time, how in depth should i get with the cleaning? Naturally with any new used gun, i like to tear them down and clean everything as much as possible.

But I've never broken down a 1911 further than a field strip. I've noticed a bit of build up in the trigger area, and firing pin area. This is just carbon and grease, nothing major i assume?

Any special tools needed? Just want to cover all the bases before i move forward. I know it's not much, but I'm really happy and proud about this pistol, and i want to do it right the first time. Not screw it up and learn from mistakes.

Thanks again for any info, and I'll have pictures and serial # today
View Quote


Good choice on the Wolff Spring Pac. I suggest you go to 1911forum.com and look around. A wealth of knowledge available there.
They will help you avoid the infamous "Idiot scratch" and explain how to deal with the Series 80 FPS parts during assembly/disassembly.
You may want to give the innards a close inspection. Some Bubba may of messed with things when changing out that trigger. Basic safety check, of course.
I have the Lightweight Commander MK IV Series 80. Bubba had fun with it, but I'm working on getting it squared-away.
Link Posted: 11/28/2014 10:03:27 AM EDT
[#19]
^^^  That's exactly what i was concerned for. Who knows where this gun has been, or who changed the trigger.

I'd rather go through it, and know for sure. Rather than just try and shoot it and hope for the best. I'm thinking of possibilities of a part being bad and shooting it will cause more damage.

Just to eliminate any uncertainty.
Link Posted: 12/1/2014 4:18:31 AM EDT
[#20]
Dude, very very nice pistol and for $500 a fantastic pistol!

Swap the springs and shoot as it.

You done good.
Link Posted: 12/1/2014 8:54:42 AM EDT
[#21]
Well, the deal isn't done yet. He said if I can find him a good used 9mm in glock, s&w, Springfield flavor, he'll do a straight trade. I've been seeing them for under 500$ all day long, but have been late to the party every time, or they are compact or smaller. Must be full sized. But I'll get one. Just keeping my eyes open.

Springs should arrive today or tomorrow. I'm counting on tomorrow because usps always drags ass on Mondays here. Once they arrive, straight to the range for a 100rd test.

The only things i know I'll want to change is a better beaver tail safety, grips and maybe some sights. Not fond of the GI blade style, but gotta see how it shoots first.

After i get the springs, and shoot the 100rds, I'm going to do a complete tear down and cleaning. And I'll post pictures of things i think look suspect.
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