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Posted: 8/23/2015 12:03:25 AM EDT
I have a firestorm 1911. it is fully functional, but well shot. I have replaced it with an XD45. I oiled it with MPro7 and put it in the safe.
Just discovered that the side that was on the foam has rusted (not bad, and fixable). Foam must have wicked the oil away  . Stupid me, I know better, but it was never an issue when I would EDC it and it was cleaned every few weeks.Anyway, I want to put this pistol in the RV and leave it there. It must endure MN weather: Hot, humid summer, sub zero winters. What lubricant would be best for storage, but still allow me to safely fire the weapon w/o having to remove it? Perhaps a good dose of Mpro7 and one of those silicone clothes? In all reality, the weapon won't be cleaned but more than once a year or so. Thoughts? |
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Posted: 8/23/2015 1:06:57 AM EDT
[#1]
Breakfree CLP.
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Posted: 8/23/2015 1:08:08 AM EDT
[#2]
Slip 2k has worked fine on the guns i hardly shoot
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Posted: 8/23/2015 1:40:27 AM EDT
[#3]
I've had luck with Frog Lube.
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Posted: 8/23/2015 1:45:53 AM EDT
[#4]
Boeshield T9 works well
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Posted: 8/23/2015 1:46:46 AM EDT
[#5]
FPNI
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Breakfree CLP. |
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Posted: 8/23/2015 1:59:57 AM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've had luck with Frog Lube. Count yourself lucky |
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Posted: 8/23/2015 3:11:35 AM EDT
[#7]
Take a look at Eezox
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Posted: 8/23/2015 3:20:59 AM EDT
[#8]
I still use Militec
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Posted: 8/23/2015 9:03:48 AM EDT
[#9]
Eezox is toxic as all hell. (Read the MSDS.) For longterm storage and on the OUTSIDE of the gun I've had very good luck with either Carnauba-based automotive paste wax, or FrogLube Paste. Of the two I definitely prefer FrogLube Paste - It's clean, completely non-toxic, and lasts, 'forever'.
It's also been my general experience that too many people don't properly follow the directions, and either don't, or won't apply FL correctly. I've seen this happen over and over again. FL is not a surface-based lubricant; and unlike car wax it does not, 'sit' onto of the surface! Like Tenifer treatment, when it's properly applied, FrogLube is absorbed INTO the metal! IF THE FINISHED SURFACE IS TACKY, IF YOU CAN ACTUALLY SEE THE FROGLUBE, THEN IT HAS NOT BEEN APPLIED CORRECTLY - PERIOD! On the INSIDE of the gun I prefer to use Sentry Solutions Marine Tuf-Glide. I'm going on 10 years, now, with several Tuf-Glide protected bores. Whenever I've taken one out to shoot there's been no damage, rust, or corrosion; and the gun works perfectly. I've got a lot of money invested in guns; so this is a topic I keep myself well versed about. |
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Posted: 8/23/2015 9:07:59 AM EDT
[#10]
First of all; does the weapon have to be "instantly" available such as in a self defense situation?... or do you just want it easily and reasonably quickly accessible?
If the latter, forget lubricants other than to just wipe it down well with an oily rag so that you don't leave any fingerprints (no, not to thwart the police, but to get your skin oils that cause rust off of the finish) You noted that the area where the foam contacted the piece showed rust, so always remember that anything that holds moisture and also emits noxious chemical residue can do that. Again, if the latter, if you want to tuck the pistol somewhere and forget about it for years if you don't need it, then wrap it completely in *VCI paper and place it in a sealable Mylar bag along with a couple of small bags of desiccant. You're done. You're welcome. ;) By the way, even done this way, the pistol would still be available quickly, just not as quickly as it could be if holstered or sitting unprotected in a glove box or whatever. * VCI paper is the stuff that many pistol come wrapped in when new from the factory. It's the usually brownish color paper that is often embossed with the manufacturer's name on it. It does have a life, though, so change it out every couple of years just for grins. Last thought; VCI paper works by emitting a vapor that not only protects the outside finish, but even protects those little nooks and crannies INSIDE the pistol that you seldom even look at when cleaning a pistol. No oil can match the protection of properly used VCI paper. |
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Posted: 8/23/2015 11:03:47 AM EDT
[#11]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Eezox is toxic as all hell. (Read the MSDS.) For longterm storage and on the OUTSIDE of the gun I've had very good luck with either Carnauba-based automotive paste wax, or FrogLube Paste. Of the two I definitely prefer FrogLube Paste - It's clean, completely non-toxic, and lasts, 'forever'. It's also been my general experience that too many people don't properly follow the directions, and either don't, or won't apply FL correctly. I've seen this happen over and over again. FL is not a surface-based lubricant; and unlike car wax it does not, 'sit' onto of the surface! Like Tenifer treatment, when it's properly applied, FrogLube is absorbed INTO the metal! IF THE FINISHED SURFACE IS TACKY, IF YOU CAN ACTUALLY SEE THE FROGLUBE, THEN IT HAS NOT BEEN APPLIED CORRECTLY - PERIOD! On the INSIDE of the gun I prefer to use Sentry Solutions Marine Tuf-Glide. I'm going on 10 years, now, with several Tuf-Glide protected bores. Whenever I've taken one out to shoot there's been no damage, rust, or corrosion; and the gun works perfectly. I've got a lot of money invested in guns; so this is a topic I keep myself well versed about. Eezox is hardly "toxic as hell." The hazard rating is 2, 1, 0. That's hardly cause for concern, especially when you're talking about the firearm hobby where chemicals and hazards are rather common. Smokeless gun powder's HMIS is 2, 3, 3/2, good old Hoppe's #9 cleaner is 2, 3, 0. Don't huff the stuff and you're fine. As for FL, no ones been able to tell me how it gets absorbed "into the metal!" Does it change the chemical structure of steel? Covalently bond? Maybe the molecules are so much smaller than any other lube that it can go into crevices that no other material on earth can. And if you use FL, don't bother carrying it concealed. I can smell your pistol from 10 feet out! |
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Posted: 8/23/2015 11:49:25 AM EDT
[#12]
More importantly don't store guns in foam cases. The foam retains moisture and can lead to rusting no matter what lube you use.
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Posted: 8/23/2015 11:50:38 AM EDT
[#13]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Breakfree CLP. +1 |
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Posted: 8/23/2015 12:45:17 PM EDT
[#14]
By a plastic and Nitride coated firearm like a glock or an M&P
It will not rust. Otherwise you will need to oil that 1911 every once in a while. How often depends on the humidity where it is stored. |
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Posted: 8/23/2015 12:47:00 PM EDT
[#15]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've had luck with Frog Lube. Maybe on the outside, but putting it on the inside will gum it up and make it non-functional in a few months of storage. |
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Posted: 8/23/2015 12:50:08 PM EDT
[#16]
Quote HistoryQuoted: Maybe on the outside, but putting it on the inside will gum it up and make it non-functional in a few months of storage. Quote HistoryQuoted: Quoted: I've had luck with Frog Lube. Maybe on the outside, but putting it on the inside will gum it up and make it non-functional in a few months of storage. Not when applied correctly. |
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Posted: 8/23/2015 12:57:54 PM EDT
[#17]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Breakfree CLP. |
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Posted: 8/23/2015 1:31:33 PM EDT
[#18]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not when applied correctly. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I've had luck with Frog Lube. Maybe on the outside, but putting it on the inside will gum it up and make it non-functional in a few months of storage. Not when applied correctly. I am convinced otherwise. |
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Posted: 8/23/2015 3:14:51 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Eezox is toxic as all hell. (Read the MSDS.) For longterm storage and on the OUTSIDE of the gun I've had very good luck with either Carnauba-based automotive paste wax, or FrogLube Paste. Of the two I definitely prefer FrogLube Paste - It's clean, completely non-toxic, and lasts, 'forever'. It's also been my general experience that too many people don't properly follow the directions, and either don't, or won't apply FL correctly. I've seen this happen over and over again. FL is not a surface-based lubricant; and unlike car wax it does not, 'sit' onto of the surface! Like Tenifer treatment, when it's properly applied, FrogLube is absorbed INTO the metal! IF THE FINISHED SURFACE IS TACKY, IF YOU CAN ACTUALLY SEE THE FROGLUBE, THEN IT HAS NOT BEEN APPLIED CORRECTLY - PERIOD! On the INSIDE of the gun I prefer to use Sentry Solutions Marine Tuf-Glide. I'm going on 10 years, now, with several Tuf-Glide protected bores. Whenever I've taken one out to shoot there's been no damage, rust, or corrosion; and the gun works perfectly. I've got a lot of money invested in guns; so this is a topic I keep myself well versed about. Metal isn't porous enough to do that. It's a gimmick. |
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Posted: 8/23/2015 5:52:57 PM EDT
[#20]
Break Free CLP and no more foam cases.
I keep a Gen 2 Glock 19 in my car 24-7-365 and have never had a problem. I shoot this one in my regular pistol rotation. Now, for super long term, I've wondered about the stuff that Glock ships on their guns - the brass / gold looking grease. I've always assumed that they did this in the case that pistols are shipped to some shithole and forgotten for a long time...yet ready to go if needed. Either way, pull that thing out and shoot it (then clean / lube) at least a couple times per year. If it's a serious gun, treat it seriously. |
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Posted: 8/23/2015 6:18:25 PM EDT
[#21]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Not when applied correctly. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I've had luck with Frog Lube. Maybe on the outside, but putting it on the inside will gum it up and make it non-functional in a few months of storage. Not when applied correctly. Yeah, not really |
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Posted: 8/23/2015 7:27:18 PM EDT
[#22]
Replace the open-cell foam w/closed-cell foam to prevent wicking and moisture accumulation. Add desiccant if in a closed case to absorb residual moisture.
Tomac |
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Posted: 8/23/2015 10:43:28 PM EDT
[#23]
Thanks all. I think the foam is the biggest problem. The rest of the weapon was fine.
Think I'll go mylar bag and moisture absorber packs with my normal MPro7 lube. |
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Posted: 8/23/2015 11:38:48 PM EDT
[#24]
Lithium grease has worked well on every firearm I have owned, for a long time.
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Posted: 8/24/2015 9:15:40 AM EDT
[#25]
Long term I use this.....
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Posted: 8/24/2015 9:56:44 AM EDT
[#26]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Take a look at Eezox +1 |
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Posted: 8/25/2015 3:22:42 PM EDT
[#27]
Another vote for eezox. It's all I use on pistols.
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Posted: 8/26/2015 10:18:24 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I am convinced otherwise. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I've had luck with Frog Lube. Maybe on the outside, but putting it on the inside will gum it up and make it non-functional in a few months of storage. Not when applied correctly. I am convinced otherwise. I don't understand why people insist on using this product, when basically idiot proof products that perform just as well are readily available and don't cost as much. |
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Posted: 8/27/2015 1:46:27 AM EDT
[#29]
lithium grease
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Posted: 8/27/2015 2:23:22 AM EDT
[#30]
TW25B is what you seek. Or superlube grease works fine.
Quoted:
I don't understand why people insist on using this product, when basically idiot proof products that perform just as well are readily available and don't cost as much. It's named after Navy SEALS. |
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Posted: 9/2/2015 8:14:29 AM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
TW25B is what you seek. Or superlube grease works fine. THIS! TW25 is light enough to be used on the tightest guns, does not migrate, and maintains it's lubrication properties during storage. It's the schnitz! 
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Posted: 9/2/2015 9:16:03 AM EDT
[#32]
car wax for the exterior.
A grease or ezzox for the interior. |
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Posted: 9/2/2015 10:42:45 AM EDT
[#33]
Mobil1
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Posted: 9/2/2015 11:43:20 AM EDT
[#34]
Eezox for long term stuff.
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Posted: 9/2/2015 2:27:53 PM EDT
[#35]
I've been using G96 Gun Treatment Aerosol Spray as both a long term and short term protectant for over 50 years and none of my guns has a drop of rust on them.
Spray that gun down with G96, lube it with a good grease, and stick it into a Bore Store. |
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Posted: 9/2/2015 4:14:25 PM EDT
[#36]
I will probably catch a lot of flack here, but: If it is indeed forged steel, there is no such thing as a lubricant that will go into the pores. Remember Slick 50? All that junk did was clog up the oil filter, causing a few engines to fail. Another thing about sealing bags, most of them are gas permeable. This will let air in slowly over a course of time. Descant bags fill up rather quickly. There have been some good lubes mentioned here. I like Mobil 1 as an oil, but it will break down over time and could leave a varnish on the gun. I have some non gas permeable bags I got from Brownell's, but haven't tried them yet. Many of my guns sit in the safe for long periods of time, with just a light coat of gun oil on the outside, and inside. I also like CLP. On any metal semi auto pistols I use Mil Com, or Mil Tech grease where there is metal to metal contact, slide rails, etc. I also have a tub of Brownells version of cosmoline. This will do away with quick access, but this stuff in a bag from Brownells should work. The early M1 Garands were sprayed with something light, then literary canned in steel drums. Most of those came out looking new. I have 2 I got back in the mid 90's. I am getting off the subject here, but I agree with the guy with the Ronald Reagan avatar. If you want to keep it in nice condition, avoid the cases, and clean it and lube it once in awhile. Good luck with whatever you decide. Where did I get my info about Lubricants? Most of it came from a class I took in college, I was an Auto Tech & Metals major. Plus taught the stuff for 31 years.
Thanks, Mark |
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Posted: 9/2/2015 9:05:26 PM EDT
[#37]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I don't understand why people insist on using this product, when basically idiot proof products that perform just as well are readily available and don't cost as much. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
I've had luck with Frog Lube. Maybe on the outside, but putting it on the inside will gum it up and make it non-functional in a few months of storage. Not when applied correctly. I am convinced otherwise. I don't understand why people insist on using this product, when basically idiot proof products that perform just as well are readily available and don't cost as much. because hype and if the shit hits the fan, you can eat it if you have to and the women folk won't complain because it smells like mint ( I got that off their flyer, ok not really) |
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Posted: 9/2/2015 10:43:55 PM EDT
[#38]
A decent bag and vapor phase corrosion inhibitor 'chips.'
Usually just cardboard soaked in the stuff and then allowed to dry of excess. I have many thousands of dollars worth of cutters that are in cardboard boxes wrapped in paper that is VCI treated. |
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:28:56 AM EDT
[#39]
I've used Mobil 1, CLP, WD40, Remoil, gun oil, or whatever was on hand...
Leave a heavy coating inside and out for long term storage. I have left things stored for years this way... Store firearms in a climate controlled area if possible. Heat, humidity, and salt will increase the rate of corrosion. Buying firearms with corrosion resistant finishes is also an option... 
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Posted: 9/3/2015 6:31:15 AM EDT
[#40]
That is true about the open cell foam cases, however I have been using them for about 30 years with no problem.
I use the thick industrial silicone spray into the foam itself with the open cells actually holding the silicone. Avoid the water based type as you will have rust in a week. Some handguns I haven't taken out in years look like I just put them away and have a thin film all over them. I even left an expensive parkerized weapon in the garage all winter and had no signs of rust come spring when I found it. Spraying the outsides of rifles for the safe revealed the same results. All I can say is it worked for me. |
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Posted: 9/5/2015 12:34:47 PM EDT
[#41]
NOT Fireclean. It turns to a thick, sticky varnish after several months. It works great for day to day use, just not long term storage.
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Posted: 9/5/2015 1:10:04 PM EDT
[#42]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Breakfree CLP. I've been using this for years now. Never a problem with it and when it's time to go shooting, just wipe the gun down and run a bore snake through the barrel. All good. |
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Posted: 9/6/2015 2:42:25 PM EDT
[#43]
I'll either rub the gun down with RIG, a odorless soft tanish colored grease from brownells, or Mobile 1 full synthetic because I run that stuff in my automobiles and usually have some left over.
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Posted: 9/6/2015 3:25:44 PM EDT
[#44]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Take a look at Eezox Cleaned and lubricated my modest collection with Eezox before heading off to Germany for a 3-year tour. The guns, blued, Parkerized, enameled and a few still 'in the white' while in the process of being modified, sat in an JobBox un-heated and un-conditioned barn in my parent's backyard through three wet winters and three humid summers. When I returned there wasn't a spec of rust on any of them. I'm a firm believer in Eezox as a corrosion preventative. |
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Posted: 9/6/2015 9:57:23 PM EDT
[#45]
Well, Meistermash finally mentioned Rig. Been using it for years. Good luck with whatever you pick.
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Posted: 9/7/2015 8:31:01 AM EDT
[#46]
Quoted:
I have a firestorm 1911. it is fully functional, but well shot. I have replaced it with an XD45. <snip> and one of those silicone clothes? In all reality, the weapon won't be cleaned but more than once a year or so. Cleaning once a year or two? You'll be fine with a coat of Breakfree CLP, wrap it in a silicone cloth, and toss it in a ziplock bag. The desicant and closed cell foam idea is sound. Other potential lube choices would be Breakfree Collector, Breakfree LP, or even RIG. |
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Posted: 9/7/2015 8:32:46 AM EDT
[#47]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Well, Meistermash finally mentioned Rig. Been using it for years. Good luck with whatever you pick. I got into Rig when I bought my Garands. Now I use it when I store any possible rusting milsurp firearm. Nice and simple, I like it. |
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Posted: 9/7/2015 3:20:19 PM EDT
[#48]
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Posted: 9/7/2015 10:12:33 PM EDT
[#49]
RIG
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Posted: 9/7/2015 10:14:10 PM EDT
[#50]
Darn, trying to remember where I saw an exhaustive test done by a fellow who exposed all of the mentioned products to the elements. Surprise! Hornady One shot out performed all, with one popular product a close second. I have begun applying to rifles that are stored for long periods after use. It does indeed prevent rust formation on steel, my own little test on steel confirmed this fact. Who woulda thought?
I will search my history for a clue, since saving the link escaped my thought process. Anybody seen it, post up. Found it: In regards to protection and lubricity: https://www.shootersforum.com/gun-cleaning/91566-results-gun-care-product-evaluation.html A long read, tables and results at the end. |
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