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Breach face pic?
Ammo used? Standard pressure or +p Approximate mileage of pistol? |
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I wonder if the bullet could have been pushed back into the case which greatly increases pressure. Another possible ammo failure could be a double charge of powder. I've never seen a Glock 22 fire slightly out of battery but anything is possible, even a high primer could be the culprit.
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Is the primer strike centered? It won't be if it was an out of battery discharge.
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I agree that it looks to have fired slightly out of battery. I have never seen it happen myself, but I've heard of it. The usual result is a misfire. I have heard of it happening though. Does this pistol have an aftermarket disconnector?
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Can the FP even move forward out of battery? View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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Is the primer strike centered? It won't be if it was an out of battery discharge. Can the FP even move forward out of battery? Theoretically, no, but I had an out of battery primer strike with a G21 once. The gun did not fire, though. It was caused by running a 14 lb recoil spring. |
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if you look at the pic with the brass in the barrel you can see the case mouth has a space from it to the end of the chamber OOB it was
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And you can see the swelled up ring of brass just forward of the rim in the last two pictures.
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I have a lot of 9 MM brass which was shot in 2nd and 3 rd Generation S&W which after sizing still would not fit in my Glock 43 barrel. I just loaded 500 rounds of 9's but I had to cull about 50 pieces because they were to tight in the Glock chamber and would not fully seat. I plan on keeping my Glock brass separate from other brass shot in my S&W. I could see this causing the OOB on this Glock since it was re manufactured ammo. No matter how I adjusted my carbide sizing die I could not get a lot of these cases to fit the Glock chamber. Fortunately all my 40 brass was shot in Glocks and I haven't had any problems with my 40 hand loads.
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The case was probably a little bulged and kept the round from chambering completely. I've had it happen with 9mm reloads. Luckily for me, the round wouldn't fire. http://i61.tinypic.com/2lu8mk6.jpg View Quote What the hell? What happened to the extraction grooves? Those cases are beyond FUBAR for a multitude of reasons... |
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What the hell? What happened to the extraction grooves? Those cases are beyond FUBAR for a multitude of reasons... View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
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The case was probably a little bulged and kept the round from chambering completely. I've had it happen with 9mm reloads. Luckily for me, the round wouldn't fire. http://i61.tinypic.com/2lu8mk6.jpg What the hell? What happened to the extraction grooves? Those cases are beyond FUBAR for a multitude of reasons... Interesting, huh? They're the reason I don't shoot Freedom Munitions reloads anymore. |
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Is there a quality replacement barrel available for the g23 that would prevent this type of kaboom.
Txl |
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Do you know if this happened when the officer pulled the trigger for a shot, or if it was a double? It looks like the firing pin/striker is sticking out from the breech face. No way to tell if it was like that prior to the boom. Firing pin blocks are supposed to prevent OOB firing. If the slide is OOB, it simply doesn't line up for the block to be pushed out of the way. But if the striker broke or got stuck forward, it could strike the primer while cycling the next round. However, I would actually expect the next round to get caught on the pin tip and fail to feed.
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Do you know if this happened when the officer pulled the trigger for a shot, or if it was a double? It looks like the firing pin/striker is sticking out from the breech face. No way to tell if it was like that prior to the boom. Firing pin blocks are supposed to prevent OOB firing. If the slide is OOB, it simply doesn't line up for the block to be pushed out of the way. But if the striker broke or got stuck forward, it could strike the primer while cycling the next round. However, I would actually expect the next round to get caught on the pin tip and fail to feed. View Quote Nope, it was the first round he fired in that particular string of fire. The firing pin sticking out of the breech face like that is completely typical for Glocks after being field stripped. You cycle the action to verify it is clear, pull the trigger, pull the slide back very slightly, pull the takedown latch and slide the slide off. Pull the recoil spring and barrel out and that is how it looks, firing pin sticking out the breech face. Firing pin was just fine, albeit dirty as hell with powder residue and brass shavings from the case head separation. In fact, if the tip of the firing pin isn't sticking out after field stripping, that would be a red flag that something is wrong. You literally cannot get the slide off if the action is (semi) cocked. The trigger bar holding the firing pin back won't let the slide come off the frame. The action has to be completely decocked so that the trigger bar isn't interacting at all with the firing pin in order to remove the slide from the frame, which means the firing pin is sticking out of the breech face. In fact, with the slide off, the spring tension on the firing pin safety actually holds the firing pin sticking out. It only takes a slight push for the firing pin to go back in, but it won't go back in on its own. When the gun is fired and the action cycles, the trigger bar catches the firing pin when the slide comes back forward and holds it so that the firing pin cannot come forward to hit the primer. No, this is a case of firing slightly out of battery. While the firing pin safety kinda sorta acts to keep the gun from firing out of battery, it isn't reliable for that nor was it designed for that. The real purpose for the firing pin safety is to keep the firing pin from coming forward to hit the primer in the event you drop the gun on the muzzle. If the gun is out of battery enough, then yes, the trigger bar wouldn't contact the firing pin safety. However, you can pull the slide slightly out of battery and the gun can still fire. I've heard and read about OOB problems with Glocks for years but this is the first one I've ever actually seen. Bub75 |
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Huh. Don't like the grip angle so down own any Glocks. So my experience is the PPQ that requires the trigger pull to disassemble and the firing pin doesn't stick out. I also had a batch of reloads from what used to be a trusted reloader that had some bulged cases. Had run through 700 or so rounds of the case without an issue. Only found out cuz they locked up my PPQ just slightly OOB. The slide and barrel were matched, but the slide wasn't fully forward. Thank goodness the pistol wouldn't fire.
Anyway, none of that helps you since I don't have experience with Glock. Glad no one was hurt. Good luck! |
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Huh. Don't like the grip angle so down own any Glocks. So my experience is the PPQ that requires the trigger pull to disassemble and the firing pin doesn't stick out. I also had a batch of reloads from what used to be a trusted reloader that had some bulged cases. Had run through 700 or so rounds of the case without an issue. Only found out cuz they locked up my PPQ just slightly OOB. The slide and barrel were matched, but the slide wasn't fully forward. Thank goodness the pistol wouldn't fire. Anyway, none of that helps you since I don't have experience with Glock. Glad no one was hurt. Good luck! View Quote I understand. I have dealt with Glocks for so long that if I strip any of my other guns and the firing pin isn't sticking out, I have to stop and think no, this isn't a Glock. No big deal. I had the same issue with some of my reloads and bulged cases when I first started reloading. I had done some .45 ACP and didn't get the bullet seated deep enough. All my friends said no problem, just run them back through the seater die and adjust it a little deeper. I did so and ended up with a bunch of cases with bulges at the bottom because I had been reading about having to use a firm crimp on ammo for autos to avoid bullet setback and reasoned that if a firm crimp is good, firmer is better. I had them crimped so firmly that the bullet didn't seat deeper, the cases bulged a little at the bottom. I didn't even notice till one tied up my Glock 21 so badly that I had to push the front of the slide against the 4x4 backstop to get the round unjammed from the chamber. It could well be a problem with the reloader. I had ordered some .380 FMJ from the same place I got the .40 ammo. I took my LCP out to try it out after I bought the ammo and started having problems with the LCP, where it had never had any problems at all before. Several FTFeed where the round went nose up and was so steep that the nose started into the chamber, then hit the top of the chamber and stopped. I had several FTExtract where the extractor lost the case and left it partially in the chamber. When I went back to factory FMJ, the issues stopped, so it wasn't the gun. Guess I'll have to check a few boxes of the .40 when I get a chance and see if there are any issues. I also think that when I order ammo next year, we'll go back to buying factory ammo on the State bid. New stuff that I can buy for the PD (if it is for PD use, the PD doesn't pay excise taxes) for about the same price as these reloads, maybe even less. The Chief wanted to help support a local company, which I understand and completely agree with, but if we're going to have ammo issues, then we're going back to what I know works and that we'll have factory support for if we do have issues. Bub75 |
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At my first agency, we used commercial reloads for training and while they were generally good, we had problems from time to time. That company y is no longer in business.
My current department and last, we all used factory ammo. Other than finding one set back bullet in a new box of Winchester 165 FMJ, we have not had any issues. I thin we were truly blessed we did not lose any guns while using the commercial reloads. |
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At first, I thought it was another case of the dreaded Glock .40 poor case head support. View Quote I really wish people would stop perpetuating this mis-information...... Unless it's prior to 2003 the support has been fixed. And if you want to make sure it's fixed buy a factory barrel for less then $100. Gen4's certainly have perfectly fine case support! |
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I really wish people would stop perpetuating this mis-information...... Unless it's prior to 2003 the support has been fixed. And if you want to make sure it's fixed buy a factory barrel for less then $100. Gen4's certainly have perfectly fine case support! View Quote View All Quotes View All Quotes Quoted:
At first, I thought it was another case of the dreaded Glock .40 poor case head support. I really wish people would stop perpetuating this mis-information...... Unless it's prior to 2003 the support has been fixed. And if you want to make sure it's fixed buy a factory barrel for less then $100. Gen4's certainly have perfectly fine case support! Actually, its not misinformation when talking about older .40 Glocks. I had an older 2nd Gen G23 that had absolute shit case head support that blew up. And, if you read my first post, I noted that Gen4 .40s, in particular, have pretty good case head support. Glock did fix the issue but, in typical Glock fashion, they never notified anyone, they just did it. I like Glocks (in 9mm and .45) but absolutely HATE .40 guns. Why should I have to buy a new barrel to fix their issue? Bub75 |
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I would be curious as to how it was able to fire out of battery. Using snap caps, I have never been able to get a glock or any of my pistols to fired OOB, not even slightly OOB.
I may be paranoid but I do the drop/plunk test with every round, and I only shoot factory ammo. Dropping 50 rds. in a barrel takes no time, plus you get to inspect each round for defects prior to loading the magazine. |
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