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Posted: 7/2/2015 8:53:02 AM EDT
what part on the safety body does the actual firing prevention?  I'll pull mine and snap some pics today.  Is there any way to salvage one or is replacement the only option?
Link Posted: 7/2/2015 8:57:18 AM EDT
[#1]
i have taken a sharpe punch and expanded the metal on the flat to make them work depends on how far away it is.
Link Posted: 7/2/2015 9:41:18 AM EDT
[#2]
I need to know what and where to hit though.  I don't understand what these things (safety) really even does on the BHP
Link Posted: 7/2/2015 10:37:50 AM EDT
[#3]
Okay, I just detail stripped it and I think I found the answer after looking at an enlarged pic of the sear at Numrich.  The sear is supposed to have a raised nub sticking up on it.  Mine is the same level all the way across.  I need a new sear.

the nub raised up in the bottom right of this pic is filed flat on mine and sits at the same level as the rest of the sear.  






Ordered a new sear from Numrich for $26.  Should be GTG now
Link Posted: 7/5/2015 2:55:42 PM EDT
[#4]
Sorry, but that info is incorrect.  The part that blocks sear from moving is the lobe,  for want of a better term, on the front inside of the safety.  The small flat on the top of the sear is where the sear lever presses down to release the sear.  Space between the sear and safety is what enables the hammer to move forward or completely drop when the trigger has been pulled and the safety is engaged.  These can be repaired by adding a small spot of weld on the lobe of the safety facing the sear.  If however, one needs to add too much to the safety that it won't go through the frame, then weld can be added to the "ear" of the sear itself.  Either way, it will likely need to be dressed down after the weld is added to get the proper blocking engagement.  If you're not sure about what to do, I'd strongly suggest the services of a qualified gunsmith.
Link Posted: 7/6/2015 11:59:23 AM EDT
[#5]
Did you recently disassemble and reassemble?

Check to make sure you put the safety lever button into the frame "completely"

If your safety is slightly backed out - the lobe won't catch and prevent the sear from moving.
Link Posted: 7/6/2015 7:17:45 PM EDT
[#6]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Sorry, but that info is incorrect.  The part that blocks sear from moving is the lobe,  for want of a better term, on the front inside of the safety.  The small flat on the top of the sear is where the sear lever presses down to release the sear.  Space between the sear and safety is what enables the hammer to move forward or completely drop when the trigger has been pulled and the safety is engaged.  These can be repaired by adding a small spot of weld on the lobe of the safety facing the sear.  If however, one needs to add too much to the safety that it won't go through the frame, then weld can be added to the "ear" of the sear itself.  Either way, it will likely need to be dressed down after the weld is added to get the proper blocking engagement.  If you're not sure about what to do, I'd strongly suggest the services of a qualified gunsmith.
View Quote


A Craftsman has given you the Knowledge you seek.
Don't screw around with your safety and sears.  A professional gunsmith is the correct answer here.
Link Posted: 7/6/2015 11:12:37 PM EDT
[#7]
Discussion ForumsJump to Quoted PostQuote History
Quoted:
Sorry, but that info is incorrect.  The part that blocks sear from moving is the lobe,  for want of a better term, on the front inside of the safety.  The small flat on the top of the sear is where the sear lever presses down to release the sear.  Space between the sear and safety is what enables the hammer to move forward or completely drop when the trigger has been pulled and the safety is engaged.  These can be repaired by adding a small spot of weld on the lobe of the safety facing the sear.  If however, one needs to add too much to the safety that it won't go through the frame, then weld can be added to the "ear" of the sear itself.  Either way, it will likely need to be dressed down after the weld is added to get the proper blocking engagement.  If you're not sure about what to do, I'd strongly suggest the services of a qualified gunsmith.
View Quote


Wait, what?  I need a pic of a safety with an arrow pointing at what makes a gun safe then.  There aren't any good smiths around me.  GD'it.  

Link Posted: 7/7/2015 12:25:37 PM EDT
[#8]
Yes, that's the part of the safety that does the blocking.  That lobe swings up behind the ear on the sear which blocks the sear from moving.  If there is any space between the lobe and the sear's ear, you can have at least some sear movement (not good), and in a worst case scenario the sear can move enough that the hammer is free to drop when the safety is released.  On a new safety, the front of the lobe is dressed down so that it is just able to move up behind the ear on the sear, blocking sear movement when the safety is on.  If the sear you've ordered is a used one, you may have the same problem.
Link Posted: 7/7/2015 3:43:01 PM EDT
[#9]
I ordered a factory new sear
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