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Posted: 4/12/2014 6:44:03 PM EDT
I went to check out a large swap meet today with the hopes of finding a cool gun. I came across a hi power. This gun is not drop dead gorgeous. Someone did a bad duracoat job so it looks a little icky. The guy wanted $500 and in a heated haggle session I talked him down to $425. I figured I could strip the shit duracoat job off and blue it back to sexiness. Well, I got out to the car and was ogling my new gun when I noticed a few things. I know the BHP had different proof marks when the Germans occupied Belgium. I noticed a faint iron eagle looking thing on the slide next to the serrations. Then I got my Google on. The gun has a WaA140 roll mark as well as a looped line following the serial number. Do you guys think it is possible the BHP I picked up is one of the guns produced during the German occupation? And, if it is, did I do good?
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Posted: 4/12/2014 7:33:49 PM EDT
[#1]
Quoted:
I went to check out a large swap meet today with the hopes of finding a cool gun. I came across a hi power. This gun is not drop dead gorgeous. Someone did a bad duracoat job so it looks a little icky. The guy wanted $500 and in a heated haggle session I talked him down to $425. I figured I could strip the shit duracoat job off and blue it back to sexiness. Well, I got out to the car and was ogling my new gun when I noticed a few things. I know the BHP had different proof marks when the Germans occupied Belgium. I noticed a faint iron eagle looking thing on the slide next to the serrations. Then I got my Google on. The gun has a WaA140 roll mark as well as a looped line following the serial number. Do you guys think it is possible the BHP I picked up is one of the guns produced during the German occupation? And, if it is, did I do good? Will post pics when I get home. If it is you might want to make sure your prints aren't on it, then handle with welding gloves, cause it will be hot. |
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Posted: 4/12/2014 7:39:57 PM EDT
[#2]
Well, that's not very optimistic. I am figuring that since the marks are really hard to see due to being duracoated (I thought they were scratches a first) he didn't notice.
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Posted: 4/12/2014 7:45:53 PM EDT
[#3]
Nazi marked guns usually command a premium, even if they aren't collector grade.
A flea market isn't exactly where you expect to find them. I could be 100% wrong but I always expect the worst, I'm seldom disappointed and am sometimes surprised with good fortune. |
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Posted: 4/12/2014 8:00:30 PM EDT
[#4]
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Posted: 4/12/2014 9:36:45 PM EDT
[#5]
If the SNs match...in whole or in part, you've got an FN Pistole 640b produced under German occupation in 1944...
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Posted: 4/12/2014 10:09:18 PM EDT
[#6]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
If the SNs match...in whole or in part, you've got an FN Pistole 640b produced under German occupation in 1944... Awesome! I've never come away from a deal with a surprise like this. I'm going to get this duracoat off and try to get it back to original. I love guns with history. |
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Posted: 4/12/2014 10:21:37 PM EDT
[#7]
I have nothing worthy to add here...just came for the pics and story. Congrats OP
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Posted: 4/12/2014 10:43:08 PM EDT
[#8]
Nice score if you can strip the duracoat without screwing up the original finish.
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Posted: 4/12/2014 10:45:12 PM EDT
[#9]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Nice score if you can strip the duracoat without screwing up the original finish. That's what I am trying to figure out. Can duracoat be stripped chemically? I imagine abrasive materials would erode the proof marks. |
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Posted: 4/12/2014 10:45:55 PM EDT
[#10]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Nice score if you can strip the duracoat without screwing up the original finish. judging by the pics the thing has been either pitted badly or someone blasted/sanded it. hard to tell from pics |
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Posted: 4/12/2014 11:37:35 PM EDT
[#11]
I am so damn jealous.
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Posted: 4/13/2014 11:04:00 AM EDT
[#12]
I think the only way to get Duracoat off is to bead blast it which would further erode the proof marks.
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Posted: 4/13/2014 11:30:51 AM EDT
[#13]
soda blasting may be an option, its easier on the metal and should still strip the duracoat.
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Posted: 4/17/2014 2:56:37 PM EDT
[#14]
Curious why this would be something of value? Not trying to rain on the OPs parade, but while I could see one of these in original finish and good condition being of value as a collectible, aren't these late war occupation guns thought to be substandard as far as a working P35 goes?
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Posted: 4/17/2014 9:16:43 PM EDT
[#15]
Here is a link to the refinishing forum on how to remove Duracoat
http://www.ar15.com/forums/t_6_19/239839_How_to_remove_duracoat.html |
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Posted: 4/18/2014 8:18:04 PM EDT
[#16]
Before breaking out the bead blaster and killing all value, try some foaming citris strip on it (Lowes or Home Depot).
Could just be a rattle can spray paint job. This M&P 38spl was covered in Spray Paint when I bought it. Foaming citris strip over night removed that crap and revealed this: 
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Posted: 4/22/2014 11:00:39 PM EDT
[#17]
I've been down this road a few times. The product you want is called "Jasco paint and epoxy remover" . It comes in a gold colored spray can. I have even used it to strip duracoat off a polymer HK frame with no harm done. The duracoat just bubbled up and wiped off with a rag. If the original finish is there, this should leave it there. The only concern I have is if it was bead blasted prior to duracoat.
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Posted: 4/22/2014 11:09:36 PM EDT
[#18]
Thanks for the info. I will give the jasco a try! I don't think it will take much to get the duracoat off. Some of it has been easy just to scrape off with my fingernail.
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Posted: 4/23/2014 4:22:04 PM EDT
[#19]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've been down this road a few times. The product you want is called "Jasco paint and epoxy remover" . It comes in a gold colored spray can. I have even used it to strip duracoat off a polymer HK frame with no harm done. The duracoat just bubbled up and wiped off with a rag. If the original finish is there, this should leave it there. The only concern I have is if it was bead blasted prior to duracoat. This stuff WORKS. I stripped a flaking CZ82 with it. |
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Posted: 4/27/2014 6:52:15 AM EDT
[#20]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
I've been down this road a few times. The product you want is called "Jasco paint and epoxy remover" . It comes in a gold colored spray can. I have even used it to strip duracoat off a polymer HK frame with no harm done. The duracoat just bubbled up and wiped off with a rag. If the original finish is there, this should leave it there. The only concern I have is if it was bead blasted prior to duracoat. JASCO is some powerful shit, ive used it on a few guns... Good Stuff....just dont let the overspray get on ya....you'll feel like you set yourself on fire. 
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Posted: 4/30/2014 7:42:26 PM EDT
[#21]
nice!
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Posted: 5/14/2014 2:39:49 PM EDT
[#22]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
That's what I am trying to figure out. Can duracoat be stripped chemically? I imagine abrasive materials would erode the proof marks. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Nice score if you can strip the duracoat without screwing up the original finish. That's what I am trying to figure out. Can duracoat be stripped chemically? I imagine abrasive materials would erode the proof marks. Duracoat and durabake are both easily stripped with commercial paint stripper, I used Dads Easy Spray brand from Walmart. A old toothbrush or plastic scraper is all you need for stubborn spots, just blob it on and let it sit, rinse and repeat until its all off. |
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Posted: 5/14/2014 2:59:22 PM EDT
[#23]
You might TRY some brake fluid also. Please don't sand it or blast it.
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Posted: 5/14/2014 3:08:02 PM EDT
[#24]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Nice score if you can strip the duracoat without screwing up the original finish. This...I hope it turns out ok |
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Posted: 7/11/2014 4:24:50 PM EDT
[#25]
I've used Bix stripper to remove coatings. You can get it at Sherwin Williams paints. Bubbles up the coating and wipes away with a wet rag. Do not get it on your bare skin, burns like crazy.
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Posted: 7/16/2014 7:24:03 PM EDT
[#26]
OP, the finish could be original paint that was applied during WW 2. I have WW 2 Inglis that has the black paint type finish on it. Looks terrible, chips here & there, but its what they where using at that time. I think the John Inglis Co. had a contract with the Belgium factory to produce BHP's for them, but the Germans captured the factory. They could have still appiled this finish even for the German BHP?
Maybe someone can come alone and correct me? But it could be original finish? |
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Posted: 7/16/2014 9:30:43 PM EDT
[#27]
Sorry atram6, consider yourself corrected
 ...on all counts 
OPs finish is not original, the German occupation P640b was blued. Inglis did not have a contract with FN to produce the BHP for them before the German capture of the FN plant. The Germans captured the FN plant in '40, Inglis didn't produce their reverse engineered version of the BHP until '44 .....
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Posted: 7/16/2014 10:30:51 PM EDT
[#28]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Sorry atram6, consider yourself corrected ...on all counts
OPs finish is not original, the German occupation P640b was blued. Inglis did not have a contract with FN to produce the BHP for them before the German capture of the FN plant. The Germans captured the FN plant in '40, Inglis didn't produce their reverse engineered version of the BHP until '44 .....RSM, I was just testing you on BHP knowledge & you passed! JK, thanks for the info. / corrections. Cool BHP score OP! Would love me one of those. |
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Posted: 7/16/2014 10:41:17 PM EDT
[#29]
Cool find!
OP, update PLEASE??? |
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Posted: 7/16/2014 11:40:00 PM EDT
[#30]
Quote HistoryQuoted: RSM, I was just testing you on BHP knowledge & you passed! LOL 
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Posted: 7/17/2014 8:05:01 PM EDT
[#31]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
...... I have WW 2 Inglis that has the black paint type finish on it..... The "original" finish on an Inglis Hi Power was Parkerization. The serial number was etched into the frame AFTER parkerization, so the number appears "in the white". If the serial number is parked, then the gun has been reparked. Many Inglis HP's that saw service with the Brits were refinished with a coating called Suncorite. If your Inglis has the letters "FTR" (Factory Thorough Repair) marked on it, it's likely Suncorite. If there is no "FTR" stamping then it may have been repainted by someone else. |
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Posted: 7/18/2014 12:47:59 AM EDT
[#32]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
The "original" finish on an Inglis Hi Power was Parkerization. The serial number was etched into the frame AFTER parkerization, so the number appears "in the white". If the serial number is parked, then the gun has been reparked. Many Inglis HP's that saw service with the Brits were refinished with a coating called Suncorite. If your Inglis has the letters "FTR" (Factory Thorough Repair) marked on it, it's likely Suncorite. If there is no "FTR" stamping then it may have been repainted by someone else. Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
...... I have WW 2 Inglis that has the black paint type finish on it..... The "original" finish on an Inglis Hi Power was Parkerization. The serial number was etched into the frame AFTER parkerization, so the number appears "in the white". If the serial number is parked, then the gun has been reparked. Many Inglis HP's that saw service with the Brits were refinished with a coating called Suncorite. If your Inglis has the letters "FTR" (Factory Thorough Repair) marked on it, it's likely Suncorite. If there is no "FTR" stamping then it may have been repainted by someone else. Dtt : you passed the bhp test as well. All right, i need to check my pistol. See if i have ftr on it. I thought this coating was ww2 era.
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Posted: 7/18/2014 12:55:33 AM EDT
[#33]
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Dtt : you passed the bhp test as well. All right, i need to check my pistol. See if i have ftr on it. I thought this coating was ww2 era.
Quote HistoryQuoted:
Quoted:
Quoted:
...... I have WW 2 Inglis that has the black paint type finish on it..... The "original" finish on an Inglis Hi Power was Parkerization. The serial number was etched into the frame AFTER parkerization, so the number appears "in the white". If the serial number is parked, then the gun has been reparked. Many Inglis HP's that saw service with the Brits were refinished with a coating called Suncorite. If your Inglis has the letters "FTR" (Factory Thorough Repair) marked on it, it's likely Suncorite. If there is no "FTR" stamping then it may have been repainted by someone else. Dtt : you passed the bhp test as well. All right, i need to check my pistol. See if i have ftr on it. I thought this coating was ww2 era.
If it has FTR it may have the date right next to it. Many Brit HP's were FTR'd in the early '50's. |
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Posted: 8/24/2014 10:08:34 PM EDT
[#34]
As far as removing duracoat, I did it once on accident in my sonic parts washer with water and simple green. Was irked when my 22 can came out white. My try that first to remove it.
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