Received my CZ 75D PCR a couple weeks ago, and one of the first things I could tell, besides the grips needing replaced, was that the trigger was way too curved. Dry firing, it really put too much pressure on the bottom of my finger. Well, when I finally got to the range and ran about 100 round through it, I found the extremely curved trigger also bothered my finger when firing single action. Had to do something about this! For such a great little gun, this is unacceptabru.

So I hit up Cajun Gun Works last weekend for some parts:

Old style "combat" trigger
Reduced power trigger return spring
Floating trigger pin
Ultra-Lite kit
-- reduced mainspring (13#)
-- extended firing pin and spring
-- reduced power plunger spring

I had read that the mainspring pin is the perfect size to use as a slave pin for the sear cage, and it IS. However, when disassembling the gun, I didn't know how to go about getting the pin in there, so the sear cage fell apart. It took me probably more than 2 hours to figure out how to get it back together. The mainspring pin is PERFECT as a slave pin. I kept getting the springs wrong, which meant I had to assemble the sear cage about a dozen times altogether. Then I figured out how to get it back in the gun properly...

.. but shit, I didn't get the trigger return spring in there right. Had to take it all out again. The trigger return spring is a little difficult to get in there, but the new trigger came with a short roll pin to use as a slave pin. It's a godsend. Finally got it back in.

Then I get the sear cage back in, get the decocker lever in, and set the mainspring. Verify that the decocker works. Check. Check the trigger function. Check. Wait. It's not resetting? WTF?

Disassemble again, verify I have everything right. It's right. Why is the trigger not resetting? OH. It has a set screw so you can adjust the reset distance. I would guess you need this if you get the short reset kit, which I did not. Had to take that set screw all the way out, as screwing it in puts tension on the trigger pin and locks it all up. Now it resets. It's all back together PERFECT.

Function check. Everything works. Double action pull. Single action pull. Decocker. Fire from half cock. Works great! Love the new trigger, and the new mainspring does reduce the trigger pull weight. Moreso in DA than SA of course.


Here she is with the new trigger and grips I got in:  




Tips:

If you replace anything and ever have to remove your trigger, get the floating trigger pin! The original pin has a reputation of giving people serious trouble getting it out. The floating pin is slightly smaller in diameter, but has a reduced diameter section in the middle that allows the spring to hold it in place so it can't walk or fall out.

If you're removing the sear cage on a decocking gun:
- remove the decocker lever
- remove the small disk retaining the pin from under the decocker lever
- use a long enough punch to go all the way through the gun
- punch the pin out from the opposite (right as you fire it) side of the gun
- the punch will hold the sear cage together.
- get your mainspring pin and start pushing the punch back out the way it came in
- tap the pin in until the punch is out, then use the punch to tap the pin in. It has to clear the hole in the left side of the frame

then the sear cage should come out and be captured with the mainspring pin.

When reassembling:
- use the punch from the RIGHT side of the gun to push the mainspring pin out and to capture the sear cage back in place
- tap the sear cage pin back in (beware - the ends of this pin are different! The side you can see on the right side when in place is a bit flat, the other side is more rounded), letting it push the punch out
- it should line up right
- seat it with the punch from the left and slide the little disk cover back over it. This should help prevent the pin from walking out when assembled, as the pin hole is a bit recessed from the side of the frame under the decocker lever


Also if you're putting in another trigger, but not putting in the short reach kit, remove the reset adjustment set screw - it's the one you can't see when the trigger is all the way forward. The one you CAN see is the overtravel set screw.


I'll have to see about hitting the range next weekend, as I won't be able to this weekend. I expect it will work just fine!

Thanks op. My PCR is one of my favorites and might consider them same trigger work.

It's really nice. Has a satin finish on it, and feels much better than the factory trigger. I dry fired a bunch with a snap cap. It is definitely lighter than before, and the physical trigger doesn't bother my finger at all.

Will try to get to the range this weekend or next and shoot at least 100 rounds. I expect it will function 100%.