Just picked up a P09 yesterday in plans on using it for uspsa production. I currently shoot ss major and wanted to practice in another division without buying a 3k race gun.

Installed CGW short reset kit along with the lightest hammer spring they have and the 11 pound recoil spring.


I like the gun alot more then I thought I would. I shot very well and it seemed very fast compared to the 1911 I'm use to.

Issue: The trigger breaks at the very end of the pull. There is zero over travel. This leads to a 10% hang fire to no fire. I tried using the factory hammer spring and it did it less but I still had incidences where the hammer would not fall even though the trigger is against the frame.

Answer: I plan to clean it up tonight and file/polish a little off the hammer hooks and else where that wear spots appear and test it again.

Any other idea folks?

The trigger is light enough but I still have creep along with an occasional hangfire/no fire.

I ordered the CGW hammer and trigger but did not install due to production rules

CGW SRK was designed to work with the CGW hammer. Using the OEM hammer, some fitting could be necessary.

Even with the CGW hammer, the trigger will nearly be against the frame when the shot breaks.  I suggest you call David at CGW and ask him if he can provide a production legal hammer that would work for you.  I would call him before modifying your stock hammer.  I ruined one before CGW had his own available.  The stock hammer isn't very forgiving at all, unlike a 1911 or a SIG.  

That said, I liked the CGW equipped P-09 to shoot it for a full year in bullseye competition and won my share of the centerfire matches.  This year I'm using a CZ-97 for the extra weight and bigger holes.  But the 97 isn't any more accurate.  Dang P-09 is phenomenal.

JOe

I had this problem with my P07. You need more clearance for the disco. The solution is to put in the oversized roller.

DO NOT touch the hammer hooks. You'll just end up needing a new hammer.

I did some light polishing on sear and hammer faces. Dry firing has resulted in zero malfunctions. However, it appears to still have great potential to catch on the left side of the sear/hammer even when the trigger is pulled completely to the rear.

I'll contact CGW and see what he thinks.

Update for anyone else who may have this problem in the future.

Contacted David at CGW today via email and of course he responds almost immediately.
Looks like my 3 options are:
1: un-install the SRS
2: install the upgraded hammer
3: lower the hammer hooks roughly 0.010"

I'm going to shorten the hammer hooks as in option 3. Worse case scenario I have to order a oem hammer and if so will see if I can convince CGW to shorten the hooks for me.

I would agree with you on the accuracy.  Mine is far the most accurate 9 that I own and I have a pile of them.

DO NOT TOUCH YOUR HAMMER HOOKS.

okay now that you have saved yourself from screwing up your gun (removing material from your hammer hooks can cause the hammer to drop before the firing pin block lever has lifted the firing pin block up fully) here is how you fix this issue

there are 2 ways

1, remove material from the back of the trigger where it enters into the frame allowing it to be pulled back further and raise the sear higher
2. remove material from the slot in the frame allowing the trigger to move back further, raising the sear higher and allowing proper function.

^^^ I think this would be considered illegal for production class wouldn't it?

no more than removing material from the top of your hammer hooks would be.