How difficult is it to install the competition hammer and various spring kits in a 75?

I'm eyeing the sp-01 tactical, but everyone says the factory trigger is pretty bad.  I wouldn't want to drop $300 for parts and shipping to have CZ customs do it, if it were something I could do myself.

I think most of the people saying that the factory trigger is 'bad' simply don't have much experience w/ DA/SA guns. It's really not bad at all. It's not as good as my Sig SRT trigger in my 227, but it's similar to the trigger in my 226. I don't feel too much, if any, grit in my SP-01.
I believe there's another thread on here that's very recent where someone did the hammer spring install very easily and then posted a YouTube video of the other stuff. It all looks pretty simply in my opinion. I don't know if you've ever built an AR15 lower, but from what it looks like there's not much more to it, if anything.

If you are mechanically inclined and have some (or a lot) of patience it isn't hard to do. The decocker complicates things as the sear cage is a PITA getting some of the little springs back in place correctly. A slave pin is a necessity IMHO and so is a starter punch to remove the stock hammer pins. A vise or a strong surface with some clamp is handy in getting the hammer pins out.

If your going to install a new hammer I would do a full disassemble and polish up the trigger parts to remove the grit. A floating trigger pin is a good idea to as you often mangle the stock roll pin and it comes with a slave pin so installing the trigger return spring is easier with the slave pin. I would install an extended firing pin as well (CGW SRS-2 kit). On a new CZ mine always get the same basic upgrades before I think about changing anything else. They would be all from CGW, extended firing pin (SRS-2 for FPB Guns), floating trigger pin, reduced power trigger return spring, and lighter recoil and hammer springs.

I was a little apprehensive before I first tore into my SP-01, but with YouTube videos and the weath of info from other CZ forums it was easy. I've now fully modified 3 CZ's of my own and on two of those hand fitted an oversize disconnector so they had to be taken part/put back together multiple times to ensure correct function.

If you go with CGW parts, get a new strut and disconnector (such as the SRS one), and install them on the new hammer.  Then you just pull the old one out and install the new one.  No punch needed for those pins.

Didn't realize that was an option.  I did it to a few non decocker and the hardest part is getting those pins off.  Secondly you have to take some metal off in order for safety to work.  Pick the sear or safety switch.  The smart answer is the cheaper part in case you take too much off .  Again my experience  no idea on a decocker model.

For the decocker models, you use the factory sear, and as far as I know, no adjustment needed as there isn't a safety involved.

This is true.  I just tore apart my sp01 tactical this week, polished the sear cage and trigger bar.  

Getting the sear back together was a PITA, luckily I bought the slave pin from CGW and some tweezers/dental picks from amazon that made the job a breeze.  The two springs inside the sear itself were easy, for me the trouble was the FPB lifter spring, and then wrapping the little leg of the decocker spring underneath the decocker levers foot.

Gonna go shoot it in about 2 hours, drastically reduced the SA pull and I could care less about the DA pull since its a range gun only and I pull the hammer back before I start shooting anyway.

My 0.2c for mandatory upgrades are the extended firing pin, reduced power firing pin spring, roll pin for infinite dry firing, and a <15lb mainspring (required with the firing pin per CGW)

What's "roll pin for infinite dry firing" ?
I thought we wanted to get rid of the roll pins and go with solid pins ???

CGW says no.  Use their roll pin, not OEM.

"Use of any solid type FP retaining pin will void your "perfection" FP's warranty."

http://www.cajungunworks.com/firing_pins.html

Copy.

I have an SP01 tactical, the hammer swap is rather easy, make sure that you have a decent starter punch since the hammer pins are staked and you need quite a bit of umph to get them out. The sear cage is a huge pain but not anything that does not require a bit of patience, if you don't have a slave pin the hammer spring pin can be used as a slave pin and it will make your work infinitely easier.

Factory SP-01 trigger isn't bad - but the CGW hammer and other upgrades make it feel bad in comparison. If you don't shoot a CGW trigger, you simply have no idea what you're missing out on.

"Pretty bad" is relative for sure. If you are like me and used to a tuned 625 and 1911, it is not good.

However, I have shot worse and they do clean-up really well with some patience.

I guess it all just depends on what you are used to and how you want it to feel.