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I'd suggest a trigger job to get you a 3.5 to 4 lb clean pull. You may have a local 1911 smith who can do that for you and save the shipping costs. You may have to replace the mim fire control parts to get you there. For sure, get enough rounds through it to know if you have any warranty issues.
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All practical advice here. ^
I would personally go with a trigger job as well. My 1911 was worked over by SACS, they include the tool steel parts with the job.
I would also get at least a dovetail front sight put in. The rear on the milspec can be drifted out and replaced with something with tritium if you prefer, not a big deal unless you really want Novak or Bo-mar sights. The front, at least, I consider a must if the staking is questionable. Mine became wiggly after about 1000 rounds.
If you're going with a skeleton hammer, the beavertail is mandatory. It enables a super high, super comfortable grip anyway.
If you're not carrying it, that should be enough.
Recap:
-Beavertail
-Dovetail front sight
-Trigger job
-Springfield supplied parts
ETA: My milspec is plenty tight as is. I personally wouldn't bother with slide to frame tightening, a little tolerance is good for reliability.
I like an extended thumb safety, non-ambi, but then I carry my 1911 and it's just fast to sweep it off.
Leave the milspec guide rod and plug. No need to complicate the takedown unless you like the look or the added weight up front.