Cylinder Honing Question - Page 1

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Cylinder Honing Question

Posted: 9/18/2016 1:37:43 AM EDT

Brass is just not falling freely from my GP100/Match Champion. I generally have to yank at least three cases out after tipping it up and slapping the ejector. Not good for a competition gun at all. This is with factory .38 loads.

So I ordered a 400 grit and 800 grit Flex Hone and their honing oil. http://www.brushresearch.com/brushes.php?c2=8

I have a padded vice, and a hand drill that can go low speeds, and I can easily get the cylinder out of the gun and get the crane off.

My question is, do I need to remove the extractor? It would be a lot easier of a job if I didn't. Their instructions aren't too clear on that part, but everything else makes sense.

Posted: 9/18/2016 1:45:15 AM EDT

[#1]

First question I am going to ask are they hand loads or cheap bought round plinking rounds? The higher quality rounds cause less fouling and easier to knock them out. Cheap rounds more fouling. If hand loading with just lead also more fouling vs powder coating and FMJ's

Posted: 9/18/2016 6:16:29 AM EDT

[#2]

if it is a competition pistol only.. I'd hone and chamfer the cylinder and star at the same time...are you shooting .38 or .357 length cases? I'm not that familiar with the GP line

Posted: 9/18/2016 6:49:08 AM EDT

[#3]

I'm surely no expert but I THINK 400 grit may be a little TOO aggressive,unless the cylinder has visible matching marks.If it only needs polishing I think I would start with something finer....,maybe crocus cloth.You can always go coarser if need be.
The extractor can be nicely chamfered with a 1/2" diameter stone in a drill....
go easy,it doesn't take much.
Good luck!

Posted: 9/18/2016 7:02:11 AM EDT

[#4]

Yeah it sounds like you do need to polish things up a bit .

I would take a good hard look at things first to determine how bad things are and possibly consider warrantee through Ruger if fairly bad. If what the gun really needs is a new cylinder you don't want to be messing with it before Ruger looks at it .

After you get stuff fixed you want to be shooting nickel plated brass for matches , this will really smooth out and speed up reloads

Posted: 9/18/2016 10:46:35 AM EDT

[#5]

Quote History

Quoted:

First question I am going to ask are they hand loads or cheap bought round plinking rounds? The higher quality rounds cause less fouling and easier to knock them out. Cheap rounds more fouling. If hand loading with just lead also more fouling vs powder coating and FMJ's

View Quote

Cheap .38, but have all the parts for the press to load now. This happens on the first 6 shots after a deep cleaning, so I don't think fouling is the problem.

Posted: 9/18/2016 10:49:21 AM EDT

[#6]

Quote History

Quoted:

I'm surely no expert but I THINK 400 grit may be a little TOO aggressive,unless the cylinder has visible matching marks.If it only needs polishing I think I would start with something finer....,maybe crocus cloth.You can always go coarser if need be.

The extractor can be nicely chamfered with a 1/2" diameter stone in a drill....

go easy,it doesn't take much.

Good luck!

View Quote

I might try the 800 first and see what happens. Can always take more off but you can't put it back. The company recommends just a few passes per cylinder, of each brush.

Posted: 9/18/2016 10:51:50 AM EDT

[#7]

Quote History

Quoted:

Yeah it sounds like you do need to polish things up a bit .

I would take a good hard look at things first to determine how bad things are and possibly consider warrantee through Ruger if fairly bad. If what the gun really needs is a new cylinder you don't want to be messing with it before Ruger looks at it .

After you get stuff fixed you want to be shooting nickel plated brass for matches , this will really smooth out and speed up reloads

View Quote

It went back to Ruger for a timing issue already. There wasn't a single polished piece of the entire gun, so I am not surprised the cylinder wasn't finished well either. I have polished everything inside that touches another part and it's turning into a hell of a gun, wish it came that way from Ruger.

I am considering .357 length nickel plated brass to reduce fouling, but nickel .38 might be a good idea too.

[ARCHIVED THREAD] - Cylinder Honing Question

Handguns » Revolvers

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