I just recently inherited my Fathers Ruger Security Six with a 4 in barrel, I have found a 2 3/4 in barrel and for Concealed, I would prefer the 2 3/4 in barrel, I have never worked on a revolver and was just wondering how hard it is to change a barrel on one of these pistols?

Thanks in advance from anybody that has information on these guns.

I know you need a receiver wrench so you don't spring (bend) the frame.

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It's not really something I would consider a DIY project. You do indeed need a special receiver wrench, and some other equipment and life experiences. The cost and time to learn would be unjustifiable for a single project. I'd really recommend sending it out to a good revolversmith. So that you have an idea of what you would be getting into:

http://smith-wessonforum.com/s-w-smithing/99388-how-revolver-barrel-installed.html

I consider myself a decent gunsmith, but Dfariswheel has forgotten more than I've ever known about revolvers.

It's not real hard, you'll need:

A frame wrench $100
ruger insert for that wrench $40
Something with padded jaws to hold the bbl.

The big ticket item is hoping that the threaded part of the bbl is the correct length for the frame so that when you tighten the bbl it doesn't cant/overshoot the bbl/frame alignment. The 2 1/2" bbl's had the full underlug and an extremely tall front sight. So There isn't allot of play in the bbl to work with. EWG sells 10/1000th's bbl shims for this but you can in all reality only use 2 max. After that a pretty good gap shows up so the bbl would need to be turned and the forcing cone re-cut.

Now if the threaded part of the replacement bbl is short on the other hand, you're in luck. All's you have to do is tighten the hell out of it until everything lines up. The end result will be your revolver will be just like it was when it left the factory complete with thread lock.

Most gunsmiths charge around $160/$200 to change a barrel in a revolver. If you don't have access to the right wrench/inserts bbl vice and a lathe if needed you might want to spend the $$$ and have someone else do it.

Do not do this. If your shoulder is set to far back and you just crank it on you will do, one or all of the above; bend the frame (even with the proper wrench), crack the frame, bulge the barrel, and/or stress peen the face of the revolver. You do not want to do any of those, in the best scenario above you'll destroy your replacement barrel, in the worst case you'll destroy the revolver all together. They do not straighten revolver frames, once it's bent, it's done.


As mentioned you will need the proper wrench and insert, as well as a mold made specifically for the barrel you're replacing, that of which will go into your vise.
Ideally you want the barrel shoulder to hit the face of the revolver snugly at about the 10oclock mark. Then you slowly apply pressure (with the proper wrench and frame insert). You will need to remove the barrel from your vise often to make sure you check for alignment. Once you go past the dead center 12oclock, you're screwed and will need to have the barrel turned back another full turn.

I would also suggest you cut your forcing cone back before you install your barrel. A simple way to do this is to screw in the new barrel hand tight, install your cylinder and close it, measure your cylinder gap then subtract the increment it'll close after tightening down the barrel proper. If you can't close your cylinder with your barrel hand tight you'll need to back your barrel off 1 full turn, and measure your cylinder gap, then subtract the amount the barrel pulls in with 1 full turn, I know on a S&W this is .0277". So for example on a Smith revolver, if my cylinder gap, on a hand tightened barrel at the 10oclock mark, is .008", when I tighten it down to 12oclock my gap will be ~.004.

By the time you get the correct tools and do it or
pay a gunsmith to do it you'd be miles ahead
( cost wise or possible damaging the gun ) just
buying the same gun with the shorter barrel.

Thanks all, that is the kind of information I was looking for, as this would be a one time project, it really sounds like more than it is worth.

Thanks again.

Buy a Dan Wesson and change the barrel anytime you want:

Hell yes!!!

How hard is it to change a barrel?

It varies from revolver to revolver.    I can do it in under 5 minutes on some of mine.   Others, I would not dream of anyone touching them in such a manner.

Here is a quick example. The Dan Wesson 744.   I can change from 4", 6", 8"  in under 5 minutes.   Some of my Colts?   The thought of a professional smith touching them is like sending one's child to go under the knife.  It just doesn't matter how good the surgeon supposedly is.

On a Ruger I'd leave it alone, or send it to a very good gunsmith. They are not DIY friendly in regards to barrels.
You'd spend more on the tools than the gunsmithing cost anyway, and still have the difficult task of doing the work correctly.





I'll also say that the 4" Security Six is pretty easy to carry concealed. Just use a decent high-ride holster and put it behind your hip. I've carried larger guns without issues under only a T-shirt (I'm a skinny guy).





I'm a big Security Six fan and I'll admit the snub model is nice. I grew up shooting my dad's stainless one and it handles great with the short barrel.